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Camino 2023
  • Charmaine Cole
  • Charmaine Cole

Camino 2023

After 5 years, Lyn and I are heading back to do the whole Camino Frances. This time we are working at getting aware from the touristy side of things. Read more
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  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler

    Day 26

    September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Left the Convent in Leon at 7.40 am, We caught the bus and arrived in Astorga around 10 am. The rain had stopped, so we decided to walk on a way. We arrived in at Sanata Catalina de Somoza about 1.30pm in the pouring rain.
    Today we travelled 52.5ks of which we walked 9.5ks.
    Its rained off and on all day.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    1This is a very small toilet.
    Toilet paper.1Remember seeing this church on our last trip 5 years ago.1This is a Stork next. I have referred it previously as a Cranes nest.1Counting down the milage.

    Astorga

    September 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Arrived here at 10 am. Had a bite to eat before moving on.

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    2The Cowboy bar was closed when we went through this morning, opened last time.
    The crosses on the fences stretch for at least 1 k.15the Ferro Cross. Located at an exact 1500 meters altitude.

    Day 27

    September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Left Santa Catalina de Somoza in the dark at 6.15 am arrived at Ascebo at 4.30pm.
    What a day! After having a few easier days, today was very long and difficult. The first 10 ks was a bit of a rocky climb but not too bad. It really was a relief to come off the Tiger Teeth hillsides. This is what the terrain is called.
    27ks
    The villages we went through today were deserted except if there was an Albergue.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    Our Albergue had new showers and toilets.
    1Twin tubs that last time we thought meant a washing machine.Here I am having a 5 minute rest.Lyn at the cross.

    Acebo

    September 17, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Well, what a coincidence the Albergue we are staying in is the same one as last time with the twin tubs. Last time, we thought twin tubs meant a washing machine. The pic shows twin tubs as advertised.
    The last 3 pics show what the terrain was like before Acebo, bloody difficult, our poor feet.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    Coming into Molinaseca
    Had breakfast at Molinaseca.You can see how the building was constructed.Harvesting grapes by hand.1

    Day 28 -rest day

    September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    After a very hard day yesterday and the terrain is like yesterday with the tiger teeth, so we decided to catch a taxi 10 ks to Molinaseca. This is where we had breakfast 5 years ago. It is such a beautiful place. We then walked 7ks to Ponferderra, and the Albergue is very pleasant. The walk was pleasant.Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    Wonderful to see Ponferrada in the distance.
    Another beautiful set of doors.Went through the castle last time.This plant has certainly grown since we were here last time.1Our lunch option. It was delicious. Naturally I had ice cream for desert. Total cost 15 euros.Salad for starters.1Bouillon del Bierzo. Different slow cooked beef with spud and cabbage.

    Ponferrada

    September 18, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Had a quiet day at Ponfederra, doing washing and getting organised for the next couple of days. Enjoyed our time just casually wondering around without feeling tired or under pressure.
    We stayed in this town last time so we knew our way around.
    We went out for lunch at 3 pm as dinner in Spain is too late for us.
    Thank goodness it was a warmer day, 7 pm, and it's 20 degrees.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    Sunrise around 8am.
    I remember this house from last time.Grapes everywhere. Looks like no more sunflowers.There are Quince trees everywhere.2This is a huge Pear tree.The man in charge very happy to have his photo takenHand picking grapes to make some Don wine.Love the little tractor. It looked like a dinky toy.2It's a really small door.I wouldn't be putting my car here.It is such a beautiful day, the photo doesn't do it justice.

    Day 29

    September 19, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Left Ponferrana at 6.45 am and arrived 1.40 pm in Villafranca del Bierzo
    25ks
    There were not many markings to get out of Ponferderra, but we made it and, of course, harder in the dark. We walked quite a bit on a busy road today, and it was not easy with the traffic. Once off the road, it was not busy, but then walking on stoney paths wasn't the easiest either. One is never satisfied.🤣
    We went out of our way to chat to the folk who were picking 🍇 and they were thrilled to have their photo taken.
    To enter Villafranca del Bierzo, it was a very steep descent into this village with a population of 3.500. It is very pretty in parts and like others villages quite a few sad ruins.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    Cold and misty morning. And dark.
    What a large Rosemary Bush.3Thank goodness for the road barrier.Mist is still with us at 11.30am.1The milage is coming down.A lonely donkey.1What huge pumpkin.I remember the twin viaducts.

    Day 30

    September 20, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Left Villafranca del Bierzo at 6.30 am arrived Herrerias at 12.15pm.
    20ks
    There was no difficulty in getting out of this village this morning as we stayed right at the end of the village.
    Our walk this morning was an easy walk. Most of it was on the road, some of which had a barrier as protection.
    Pics from our morning walk. It was chilly for nearly the whole walk.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    It's cold.The 🐄s are kept inside for the winter.1

    Day 31

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Left Herrerias about 8.30am by taxi up to O'Cebreiro del Bierzo. Arrived at Fonfria 1.15pm.
    We were going to leave shortly after 9am today and take a horse up the long, slow climbing 6k road hill climb, but it was cancelled at the last minute due to the rain.
    18ks
    6k up to O'Cebreiro, a then 12 walk.
    We had a couple of steep climbs on our walk today, reaching 1400ft. The weather was chilly, windy and some rain as well.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    1

    Fonfria

    September 21, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    It was wonderful to arrive at our accommodation. I had booked a private room, a girl needs some luxury to celebrate 🍾 a birthday, even if a little late. I also treated myself to a massage, what heaven.
    Tonight, we had a community meal, much better than anything else we have had.
    I'm looking forward to snuggling down into my cozy bed.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    2
    2100 year old tree. Saw this tree last time. Part of this tree is 800 years old. In Ramil.First 🌽 store on this trip.

    Day 32

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Left Fonfria just after 6.30 a.m., arrived at Samos at 1.30pm.
    20ks
    Pitch black, cold, misty, and the path at times very uneven with rock slabs (bloody dangerous) for the first hour. 6 degrees when we left.
    It has been a long, hard day, with more rough paths and rock slabs, and the weather certainly didn't help.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler

    Samos

    September 22, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    This is the large monetary in the Western world. Had a tour with a person who had no people skills and just didn't give a dam. We did enjoy looking around but didn't learn anything. We had intended to stay there, but after Lyn read the reviews, we decided not to, a very wise move.
    Our Albergue tonight is almost empty, so we both have only one other person in our room, yah!!    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler

    Day 33

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    Left Samos at 7 am arrived at 12.30 am in Barbadelo.
    18.5ks
    It was still a walk in the dark this morning, even though we left a little later. The first 7 ks were difficult with some steep climbs, loose , rocks slabs. Cool temperature again for most of our walk today, but we did walk through some lovely woodlands, too. Towards the end of our trek, the sun came out.
    We only went through the outskirts of Sarria. This is where a large number of pilgrims will start their walk over the next couple of days.
    We have noticed a small increase in pilgrims over the last couple of days. But we haven't had any problems getting a bed. Last night, there was only 1 other with Lyn and I.
    There was no chance of pics of our travel today, with one exception.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    We found this place last time we were here, so it was a thrill to see it again.
    1Our Albergue, very nice and clean with good showers too.Our bunk room with 8 bunks.3Me by the pool at our Albergue.

    Barbadelo

    September 23, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Population here is 176
    We had lunch and spent the afternoon resting. Had a walk around the village that didn't take very long.
    It's hard to believe we'll be into our last week tomorrow. We have managed our timeline well and will arrive in Santiago on schedule.Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    Beautiful day.The 100k mark, downhill from here with the numbers.Another beautiful old set of doors.Entrance to a flash home.1131

    Day 34

    September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Left at 7am and arrived at Portmarion around 12.30 pm.
    19ks
    Pilgrims have increased massively.
    There is a variety of trees all the way, from apples to pears from chestnuts to walnuts.
    Most of the walk today was reasonably easy, just like going for a leisurely hike in NZ with the exception of the last bit where Lyn and I threw our walking poles away then turned around and climbed down backwards. The pics say it all.Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    Portmarion in the distance.
    1Walking over the bridge to Portmarion.Looks like Crocuses.2

    Portomarion

    September 24, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    When we turned up at our Albergue we booked yesterday, they said we didn't have a booking. A bit stressful fro awhile but we were fortunate to get one of the last beds in the municipal Albergue, phew. We are very lucky as there are only 4 beds in our room, so we are not in one of the dormitories.
    Pics around Portmarion.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    1The photo doesn't do it justice, but it was really pretty.Other ilgrims are now with us all the time.2The police are always about, and today they were from France, Portugal, as well as Spain.It's a beautiful day.2We saw this giant ant sculpture last time we were here.Today's Albergue, basic but clean.These are police on horseback.

    Day 35

    September 25, 2023 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    Left Portmarion 6.15 am arrived on the outskirts of Palas de Rei at 2.30 pm
    25ks
    The first couple of hours today was a long and very steep continuing climb. It seemed to go on forever. Especially hard walking in the dark. Then it was pleasant, then back to climbing up and down. We did have another bad patch of climbing down flat steep rocks steps , but we made it.
    Something I haven't mentioned is the dreadful stench that comes from the animals sheds as you go past.
    There are no pics of the village, it's just an Albergue on the outskirts of the village and I am too tired to walk any further than I have to.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    Lyn and I with St James.
    This is a really cool chicken house.A nice walk.A little grade going down.Another Roman Bridge.Early daybreak and there are pilgrims everywhere.I have not seen our one in NZ flowering.Ribadiso coming into view.A pretty countryside.What a lovely surprise to hear the bagpipes.

    Day 36

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Left Palas del Rei 6.40am arrived in Ribadiso 2 pm.
    25ks
    We walked 15 ks to Melide then caught a taxi 5ks and walked the last 5ks.

    We were fortunate this morning with lights to guide us out and through some of the villages that were close together. The terrain today was good for the most of the way but we did encounter the usual ups and downs and long slow climbs, but nothing too tricky.Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    3A hill start for the morning.A Roman Bridge at the beginning of town.2A lovely garden in one of the private Albergues.

    Ribadiso

    September 26, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    What a pretty little village with 3 Albergues and 2 houses.
    Tonight, we are sharing a room with 68 others. The luxury of this place we can manually turn the lights out. Other places are automatic, lights don't go off until 10 pm, and there is no switch, and that's a real pain.Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler

    Santiso

    September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We are nowhere near we are supposed to be. At this stage, we will get onto the Northern route tomorrow. We are in our hotel and have had a lovely shower with a glorious white towel. A bed with sheets and we don't have to share with anyone else. Bliss!!!
    This village has 1 hotel and 1 Albergue and a cafe that is closed.    Read more

  • Charmaine ColeCamino 2023Traveler
    11

    Day 37

    September 27, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Left Rebadiso at 6.30 am arrived firstly in O Pino, Pedrouzo at 1.40 pm only to find O Pino is an area and not a town. Miles away from the Camino Frances, it is on the Northern Camino. Taxi took us to the hotel Bello arrived at 2 pm.
    The walk today was uneventful with the usual up and down. It is like a worm trail of people and of all ages. Not chilly this morning.
    27ks walked 21ks, taxied 7ks.    Read more

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