• Stephanie Siakel

Kiwi Adventures

Logging my 4 weeks in New Zealand with Flying Kiwi Tours Read more
  • Trip start
    February 27, 2020

    Day 1: Auckland - City of Sails

    February 27, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    If Auckland is any indication, I definitely made the right choice of sabbatical destination.
    …Sunny, gorgeous weather. Mid-70s.
    …Friendly people who smile back at you on the street.
    …Island vistas from the numerous volcanic cones that the city is constructed over.
    …Gingerbread Victorian bungalows - think of a cross between Key West and New Orleans, without the icky humidity & mosquitoes.
    …Coffee fit for a Portlander.
    …Little hidden, litter-free beaches with warm, calm waters
    (even if getting to them at low tide is a mucky, dangerously-rocky
    endeavor)
    …Delicious food that reflects the international fusion of cultures in the city.

    I won’t lie. If coronavirus strands me here for longer than intended, I won’t cry.

    Daily Observations:
    ~ Air New Zealand Premium Economy is awesome! Foot rests/ huge pillows.
    ~ Ordering special meals on planes ruins the tiniest spark of a feeling that you’re enjoying fine dining with their entirely foil-wrapped tray and plastic utensils. I may have to brave possible dairy content on my other flights.
    ~ Modern, water-conserving toilets ruin the fun of seeing the drain spin the opposite direction. I have yet to witness this quirk of the Southern Hemisphere.
    ~ Allen and Dee are great hosts. Allen, especially, will talk your ear off, and Dee is responsible for the fun decor around their very lovely Herne Bay townhouse. Louis & Paris, their frenchies, are in charge of ensuring guests don’t need to wash any sweat off their legs and feet themselves.
    ~ Unsolicited Trump-joke Count = 1

    P.S. - I’m still adjusting to my new camera and lenses. So, I’m expecting to get better at the photos as I go along.

    P.P.S. - I’m also experimenting with this app, so let me know what you think.
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  • Day 2: In the Shire

    February 28, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    “In a hole in the ground there lived a hobbit. Not a nasty, dirty, wet hole, filled with the ends of worms and an oozy smell, nor yet a dry, bare, sandy hole with nothing in it to sit down on or to eat: it was a hobbit-hole, and that means comfort.”
    ― J.R.R. Tolkien, The Hobbit, or There and Back Again

    I’ll be the first to admit, I really liked the Lord of the Rings movies and it was definitely a motivator for me to choose NZ as my next sabbatical trip. But, I haven’t read the books, or even seen the newer Hobbit movies. (Though, I did watch and get really creeped out by the 1970’s animated version). Nonetheless, I was super pumped to see Hobbiton. So pumped that I even tried to book the special tour that gained pre-opening access, and “second-breakfast” in the Green Dragon. Unfortunately, that tour did not meet the minimum and I had to take the more standard option.

    I was picked up at my AirBnB by Wayne, a 6’5” gregarious bear of a man. (One of my actually tour guides later in the day assured me he was a proper NZ redneck). We he was running a city tour that day, so I was transferred to the main tour bus with Olly. The drive down to Matamata takes a couple of hours, but it’s definitely not wasted since the scenery is beautiful. On our way down, I took the opportunity to try my first NZ sausage roll at our coffee stop. Basically like a large pig is blanket without the meat-casing. Delicious!

    Despite the later start, we were still one of them first groups on the set and it was fairly uncrowded. The Hobbiton guides do a great job of keeping the groups separated, and the feeling of being herded like sheep is kept to a minimum. I’ll let the pictures speak for themselves as to how amazing it was...

    Daily Observations & Learnings:
    ~ The rolling, green hills of the North Island aren’t so green in the summer, but it’s still beautiful.
    ~ Peter Jackson used the NZ army to help build Hobbiton and they served as Orcs in the movie and were asked to tone it down for being too authentic and injuring the actors.
    ~ There was only one true LOTR nerd on our tour.
    ~ Hobbit holes were built to different scales depending on if they were filming hobbits or wizards in front of them
    ~ There is only one hobbit hole you can go into, and it’s empty (apparently, some tourists have cried on the tour after learning this)
    ~ The little girl who plays Samwise’s daughter was Sean Astin’s actual daughter.

    ~ Unsolicited Trump-joke Count = 2
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  • Day 2: The Green Dragon

    February 28, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    “But the only brew for the brave and true...
    ..Comes from the Green Dragon!!"

    Daily Observations:
    ~ The specially brewed stout here is excellent!
    ~ I really missed out not being able to eat breakfast in the Green Dragon. All the little details are incredible, and I wish I had more time to sit and take them all in.Read more

  • Day 2: More Hobbiton, if you can take it

    February 28, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    I’m all out of Hobbiton observations. But it really was a lovely day.
    Bush and Beach run a quality tour.
    Plus, I had a great time on the drive back to Auckland talking food and wine with Bryan, the 2nd tour guide who was also a restauranteur with tons of recommendations and insights on the local food-scene.Read more

  • Day 2: Auckland Museum & Wanderings

    February 28, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    After Hobbiton, I still had a fair bit of the day left, so I had Bryan drop me at the Auckland Museum so I could see the huge Waka (war canoe) Uncle Russ had recommended. Definitely worth the visit, along with many of the other exhibits on Maori culture and New Zealand.

    I apparently hadn’t had enough hours on my feet afterward, so I walked to the Mount Eden neighborhood (past a very British-looking prison) to hit up a Szechuan restaurant I had learned of. It was like a little corner of Chengdu, right in the Southern Hemisphere. Thankfully, I arrived just before the dinner rush that lined up out the door. (The day after the first case of Coronavirus hit Auckland and all the supermarkets were having their shelves cleared for the ‘imminent’ full-city quarantine. So, I knew it had to be good)
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  • Day 3: Wine & Sun on Waiheke

    February 29, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    New Zealand has many wine regions. All little unique micro-climates unto themselves. There are a few around Auckland, and Waiheke Island is the probably most popular, due to its proximity to the city (a quick 40-minute ferry ride) and the getting away from it all feeling of sunny beaches and forest hikes.

    I got a late start, after a delicious shakshuka breakfast at Dear Jervois. I probably played the day too fast and loose, so by the time I decided for sure to do some wine tasting and sun-bathing, the wine tasting tours AND the hop-on-hop-off wine & beach bus were both sold out (it was a Saturday). So, thankfully, 2 of the winery recommendations I got from Bryan, my foodie Hobbiton guide, we’re both within walking distance of the main town on Waiheke. I earned my wine with the uphill hike, but it was worth it.

    Daily Observations:

    ~ It must be exhausting to have a social media account in Asia based on the 40-minute selfie session of two girls on the ferry.
    ~ The new fashion trends are very disorienting. I can’t get over seeing 90’s t-shirts (saw a 1992 Chicago Bulls championship one) on kids carrying cell phones.
    ~ NZ beaches have the best combo of shade/ soft grass to relax on/ ample space on the sand/ clean and convenient showers & changing areas
    ~ Cable Bay Vineyards’ wine wasn’t good enough to make up for the dark cellar tasting room and grudgingly friendly service
    - Mudbrick Vineyards had the best mix of ambience, bubbly service, and incredible views

    Unsolicited Trump jokes = 0 (I didn’t speak to very many people today)
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  • Day 4: Delightful Devonport

    March 1, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    Last day in Auckland before the big tour. I’d been told that Devonport was a nice relaxing afternoon trip with some nice 360 views, if you’re willing to climb for them. So, back on the ferry again for a 10-minute ride to one of the historic communities around Auckland.

    Devonport didn’t disappoint. It was very cute with lots of Victorian architecture and many places that I felt could have put me right back in several neighborhoods in Portland.

    Came across a community tango event in the ferry station on my way back. So, look out for those pics and a video posted somewhere in the Day 4 mix....

    Daily Observations:

    ~ You eat way too many chips when your fish is blazing hot
    ~ Fish n chips taste better sitting under a chestnut tree on a sunny day
    ~ The run on Antibacterial hand sanitizers in Auckland did not extend out to Devonport, so I was able to pick up an extra packet of wipes.

    Unsolicited Trump jokes - 2
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  • Day 5: Cathedral Cove w/ Flying Kiwi

    March 2, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    So, the tour begins! After leaving my Herne Bay home away from home, I once again braved the Auckland bus system with my luggage and met up with the Flying Kiwi tour.

    I watched as all the prior tour participants hugged & wished each other farewell. No one seemed ambivalent about their tour completion, so I took that as a good sign that I was in for a fun time.

    Sam & Janelle are our guides for the majority of the next 24 days. There are 23 of us starting out on the tour today: Germans, Canadians, Irish, British, Spanish, Bulgarians, Chinese (HK), & Americans compose the group. We all introduced ourselves, added a couple of songs to the bus playlist, and shared our desired superpower.

    We headed out to the Coromandel Peninsula and stopped in Tairua for lunch. I surrounded myself with British Isles-dwellers: Aine (Ireland and my seat mate), Hannah, Jaimie, Gwynne, Aaron (U.K.). Our food took the entire hour we were allocated for lunch to make, but even in a ToGo box, it was delicious. 😋

    Our first scenic stop was Cathedral Cove (along with a fair amount of other tourists). It was a 30-ish-minute hike down to the beach, but was definitely gorgeous, as you can see from the pics.

    Many decided to brave the rough, and fairly chilly waters for a swim. I snuck to some light photography...

    Daily Observations:
    ~ Estimated hiking times on kiwi signs seem fair (take note BC)
    ~ It’s the 2nd “surprise” hill that kills you
    ~ My day-packing skills need work
    ~ From our first encounters, SO GLAD I didn’t choose one of the other hop-on-hop-off bus tours
    ~ Flock in Tairua has slow lunch service

    Unsolicited Trump jokes = 3
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  • Day 5: Eeek!! I’m Camping!!!

    March 2, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    It’s probably been about 20+ years since I’ve slept in a tent. God, help me.

    We were given the option to bike into camp the first evening. We, however, were not given the option to do it without the hills... we were warned about the first one. The second one was a ‘bonus’. Of course, the ONLY reason I had to walk my bike up both was on my physical therapist’s orders not to climb on the pedals (thanks, Ari).

    Nevertheless, we made it and cycled in to a very nice camp ground that made me very regretful I hadn’t upgraded to one of their cute, modern cabins. Well, no getting out of tent sleeping.
    Sam provided a very thorough explanation on the basics. Much to Aine’s disappointment, the demo tent was his own. We had the tents up in no time and lined up excitedly for Janelle’s delicious dinner (prepped solo for almost 30 people in under an hour!)

    I’ll skip over the evening activity, since those pics will show up in a later post.

    Showers - fair. Lots of hot * cold fluctuations
    Bugs - minimal
    Sleeping bags - warm
    Tents - not musty
    Sleeping mats - not as plush as I’d unrealistically expected
    Tent position - far enough away from snoring and ‘other’ noises
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  • Day 5: Relaxing at Hot Water Beach

    March 2, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    So, at low tide, this very unique beach on the Coromandel peninsula has geothermal features that allow you to dig holes into the sand that will fill with spring-warmed water that create natural hot tubs you can soak in. Some “tubs” are warmer than others, and there are even places that are too hot to touch. [Eddie Murphy’s James Brown bit floats through my head]

    Sam guided us down to the beach, explaining the significance of the silver fern to Maori culture and pointing out possible glow worm locations. We did a bit of digging ourselves, but mainly took his advice to scavenge other people’s digging efforts. Janelle arrived a bit later after sorting the kitchen to document the event & do some of her own relaxing

    Hot Beach Observations:
    ~ Awesome hot tub, but sand in very undesirable places
    ~ “Hold the wall” (the first rule of Hot Beach
    ~ watch out for burnt feet & butt cheeks
    ~ tree roots are invisible at night
    ~ pretty sure Sam was having us on about the glow worms here
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  • Day 6: Waihi & Hauraki Rail Trail

    March 3, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Day 2 of the tour. We backtracked down the Coromandel Peninsula to Waihi for a coffee stop & a gander at the mine pit there. It was also our daily cycling opportunity.
    Today was a very nice ride along the Ohinemuri River on an old rail track. It was 17km of distractingly pretty scenery (as Hannah later found out). Lots of old railroad paraphernalia that would have delighted Jaimie’s 5-year-old son.
    Suspension bridges, 1km-long tunnels (an engineering feat to be sure), gorges - the ride had it all. Unfortunately, I did come around a corner to find Hannah on her back on the side of the gravel trail with blood streaming from her knee. She wasn’t too badly hurt and thankfully was able to get back on her bike to finish the ride.

    The larger group of us did have a fun time finding the pickup spot in the Karangahake Gorge, but eventually sorted it out after a WhatsApp call back to home base.
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  • Day 6: Rotorua

    March 3, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 77 °F

    After a glorious al fresco sandwich buffet that made us the envy of the rest stop, we drove down to Matamata to drop off several people for their Hobbiton tour. Although the pineapple at lunch was tasty, there's always room for ice cream! Sam took us to One Road Ice Cream Company in Tirau, a handmade ice cream shop with a friendly owner that takes a lot of pride in his delicious ice cream & sorbet (I had the passion fruit).
    Tirau was also our introduction to the quirk of "big things". Small towns in NZ who want to increase tourist traffic build big things to pull them in. Tirau has a big herding dog & sheep. In my opinion, totally worth the stop.

    We had several options for activities in the afternoon. Even though Rotorua is the birthplace of zorbing, I didn’t quite have the desire to put my body through the abuse of sloshing around inside a human hamster ball. And based on Gordy & Jaimie’s video of their experience, I also wasn’t ready to get quite that intimate with my tour mates. 😊 Instead, I opted for the Skyline luge track. Marty (from TX) joined me, and we had fun getting to know each other better between sled rides down the mountain. I especially enjoyed the “scenic” track that took you past a mid-hill event space where guests could luge in and park their sleds to join the party. We hurried through our luging to make sure we had enough time to visit the Volcanic Hills Winery tasting room at the top of the gondola. Brent, the wine maker, was very chatty (to the point where we were afraid we would miss our bus). But, I did learn he worked for several years at a vineyard in the Willamette Valley – small world.

    We did make the local bus into Rotorua to meet back up with the Flying Kiwi at the iSite, and we had just enough time to take a quick stroll to the lakeside park to see some of the geothermal vents that were responsible for the rotten egg, sulphur smell permeating the town.
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  • Day 6: Maori Feast

    March 3, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    After setting up camp, we ended the 2nd day of the tour at the Tamaki Maori Village. Other than what I learned from Moana (which surprisingly is a great deal – Did you know Heihei is actually the Maori word for chicken?!!), my knowledge of Maori culture was pretty limited. The night’s festivities put a good dent in that ignorance.

    Our viewing spot was terrible, but my dragon boating-heart went pitter-patter when the men of the village paddled in in their waka (canoe). We were treated to an impressive and intimidating welcome ceremony (powhiri) that included a haka dance. Maori traditional culture isn’t exactly a model of gender equality, so a male representative of our shuttle bus-tribe accepted their invitation for us to enter the village where we moved around different demonstrations of the Maori traditions & customs. We saw wood carving, basket weaving, games and dance. My tribe’s “chief” chose me to participate in the stick game (he could sense my innate ability) where a group of us stood in a circle, each held a large staff in one hand, and tried to reach the next person’s staff before it fell after the caller directed us to move around the circle in a particular direction. I won’t say that I have a profession contract in my future, but negotiations are in the works. 😊 We capped off the fun and games with watching the men of the group learn and perform a traditional haka dance of their own.

    The remainder of the evening was mostly about the food. We experienced a traditional hangi, which is not unlike a luau. The vegetables and meat are cooked underground with hot rocks. No whole pigs here, though. It’s mainly chicken and lamb. We also got to try the green-lipped mussels unique to NZ. I left full, especially after they brought the passion fruit-drenched pavlova dessert (dairy free!!).

    Surprisingly, the bus ride back to camp was almost as entertaining as the entire village experience. Our linguistically-talented driver treated us to greetings in so many different languages and authentic accents that I quickly lost count. He had the whole bus rolling in the aisles, especially as he circled the roundabout by camp at least 5 times singing “Here we go round the ‘Maori’ bush”. Classic!!
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  • Mud Pools, Lady Knox Geyser & Huka Falls

    March 4, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    Tour Day #3 started with my first rain-camping experience. The only benefit of the rain was it partially drowning out the late-night celebrations of the paragliding club that was camping in the site next to ours.
    The dreary start was made better by Sam & Janelle making us eggs and bacon for breakfast! But I could tell I was a little out of it when I managed to pour a large amount of salt into my coffee, instead of sugar. Thankfully, my kind camp mates didn’t allow me to drink it, despite the certain comedic value it would have provided.

    We packed up our wet tents and got onto the road to make sure we arrived at the Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Wonderland in time to see the Lady Knox Geyser go off at 10:15. We stopped to see the largest mud pool in NZ before joining the large crowd seated around the white cone of the geyser. We were all prepared to be amazed by the entirely ‘natural’ wonder of a geyser erupting with Old Faithful-like predictability. Imagine our surprise when 2 women came out to stand beside the cone - surely a dangerous position given the imminent explosion of steaming hot water!. They proceeded to explain that Waiotapu was once a prison labor camp, and men washing their clothes in the warm thermal spring discovered that their laundry soap would cause the spring to erupt. Obviously, none of us had done our research about the Lady Knox ahead of time, so we watched in bemusement as they brought out a big bag of soap and poured it into the white cone to generate a 20m fountain. Impressive? Interesting? Sure! But not at all what we expected.

    We hiked around the beautiful Geothermal Park afterward (see a later post about this) and continued on towards Taupo. We stopped at Huka Falls to see the incredible flow of icy blue water rumble through the gorge and erupt out over the shallow falls.

    Daily Observations:
    - Turns out, you can fit bus through there 😊
    - Surprisingly, the Waiotapu Thermal Park and all its bubbling, steaming features had nothing on the sulphur smell at our campsite in Rotorua

    * Group photo credit to Aine
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  • Day 7: Waiotapu Thermal Wonderland

    March 4, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    More Waiotapu Observations:

    - The Taupo Volcanic Zone, that Waiotapu is part of, includes the White Island volcano that erupted a few months ago... I feel super safe now.
    - Sam & Janelle are pros at getting us to the busy attractions before the crush of people
    - It's hard to take good photos of many of the interesting geothermal features. A lot of them involve obscuring steam, or weird sounds and smells.
    - Cell phone might still work after dropping them into a thermal feature (if the couple I saw drop theirs into the Sinter Terraces is any indication)
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  • Day 7: Swinging in Taupo

    March 4, 2020 in New Zealand ⋅ 🌧 70 °F

    We left the majority of the group at Huka Falls to hike into Taupo, while a few of us had more adrenaline-inducing activities to pursue. Jaimie's skydive plans were aborted by cloudy weather. But, Gordy, Aine, and I still had a date at AJ Hackett's Taupo Bungy & Swing.
    I really had no intention of taking part in any of the extreme sports invented in NZ, but Aine was desperate for someone to latch onto during her first death-defying leap, so I let her talk me into doing a tandem Swing Jump (NO WAY was I bungy jumping!!).

    "What is a tandem swing jump", you ask? Well, somehow I convinced myself that it was a less-scary alternative to bungy jumping, because even though you drop off the same cantilever platform as the bungy, it doesn't involve all the spine-stretching effects of bouncing up and down on the end of giant rubber band. Plus, it eliminates much of the risk of miscalculating physics variables, like how far someone of your weight and height will fall without smacking their face into the river.
    Instead, you sit in a harness that's connected to a long cable that lets you freefall for 44m (only 10ft less than the bungy) before it smoothly catches and pendulum swings you across the beautiful Waikato River at 45mph.
    One of the swing's other benefits is that you don't need to step off the platform yourself. You just need to sit down in the harness while still over 'solid ground' so that they can winch you out over the drop-zone. You DO get to choose if you want a countdown or not... but big surprise, the cheeky operators usually don't wait until you get to "1" before pulling the release.
    We watched Gordy take his warmup swing first, since he was also going to bungy, and we wanted a live demo of what we were in for. I thought it looked like fun, but I got the distinct impression it terrified Aine even more. I managed to remain fairly Zen through all the harnessing and preparations, but I'll freely admit there was a good deal of profanity coming out of my mouth during the drop, and I was unable to release the death-grip I had on the main cable for the entire swing.

    On shaky legs and with a general sense of euphoria, Aine and I rushed down the hiking path into the gorge to find a good vantage point to watch Gordy's bungy jump. I blame the adrenaline coursing through our systems on the excessive volume of our reactions to his drop [Consider yourself warned for the attached video]

    The travel gods were watching out for us because we managed to hike back up to the main building just before the clouds opened up and started pissing down rain. Thankfully, Sam and Janelle were interested in witnessing our possible demise, so we and several of the faster hikers who had also stopped to watch, hitched a ride with them back into Taupo; avoiding a very wet mile-long walk. We rewarded our bravery with a beer tasting rack and pretzels at the Crafty Trout Brewery before we had to load back onto the bus to drive to Turangi.
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