Day 15 - Nice hike to Rabanal

21.8 km / 13.5 mile hike today. We slept in a bit and left Astorga around 9 am as we knew it was a flat’ish, country hike today. Weather cooperated today and we soon peeled off our cool morning clothes for shorts and t’s, as the weather was high 60s and a beautiful day for a long walk.

As always, the last 5-10km is always the hardest and we had to grind. Sun was hot and flies were thick. We kept trucking on, and passing thru a run down, one horse town, El Ganso, we noticed a street vendor (the only person we saw in the entire town). He had some interesting jewelry. Julie ended up finding two beautiful crosses.

As per usual, we hobbled into town- Rabanel, later than all other pilgrims. But this time, we were cheered on by earlier pilgrims already showered, clean clothes on the line and out exploring the village (their journaling/reflecting was probably already done as well).

We found the closest bar (in this town of 50 people), and they were closing for siesta (of course they were) and they were super friendly and kind and we enjoyed our much looked forward to cerveza after our long hike.

We checked into our Albergue, which was referrred to us from another fullly booked Albergue. This lady, Susana, has not yet opened her two rooms above her small store for customers. We believe we are one of her first customers.

We had reserved one room with a full bed and private bath. Upon arrival, the bed was very tiny with a single pillow. We decided to ask Susana, (and yes we sang Oh Susana for the last 5km), if her other room across the hall was available, and she said it was. For the very first time in over two weeks, Joan and I now have our very own rooms.

At 7pm we attended a pilgrims mass/Liturgy of the hours, at the Benedictine Monastery in town. Hearing the mass and prayers in multiple languages is truly a transforming and spiritual experience. It was the cap to a day of the Lords presence in our lives. We saw multiple churches, and people of God that have touched us forever.

Our dinner next to church was one of our best. Joan continues to out drink and eat me- it’s alarming. Tomorrow we climb the mountains (that we don’t know their name). And it is a long steep, 26+km / 15+ miles up and down. Wish us luck!

Buen Camino!En savoir plus