Day 6 Montarnaud to Saint-Guilhem, 22km

Beautiful day. Lots of flowers, smell of broom (I think). Things are starting to get a bit more nature-y.

It seemed pretty clear that the woman who runs this morning’s gite was not feeling well and needed us to get going. I was out by 9 so I am getting bit speedier at getting ready! The path went up right away. Something that hasn’t happened here yet!Lots of rocks. A lake that I think — but I might be making this up — was once a bauxite quarry. Lots of thigh-high rosemary bushes and tons of flowering thyme.

I walked for part of the morning with a French woman who lives in Spain. Nice to have company. We stopped for lunch in a village called Aniane. I had probably the best sandwich I have ever had in Europe. Roquefort, chevre, some marinated vegetables, onions and gorgeous lettuce.

Eventually at lunch there were 5 of us. And the theme of the day was how much food we need to buy and where for the next few days. We need to sort things out for some long stretches between small places with no services. Also Easter Sunday. Easter Monday (a holiday here). There are bound to be some some glitches.

At the end of the day the last few kilometres are following a river and its gorge. Very dramatic. Turquoise water. Falls. Rapids. Rocks. More wind! The path goes along the edge of the road beside a (in some places) a guardrail that is used not one high. I found it nerve-wracking. The drop to the river was not insignificant!

Saint Guilhem is indeed very beautiful as promised. I’m staying in a private room in a gîte. It’s a very comfortable place. In the big room there is a jigsaw puzzle partly done on a table!

For some reason several places were closed for dinner tonight. Last night the woman who sold Benedicta a pizza in Montarnaud told B she would need to reserve somewhere tonight. She was right Eventually 5 of us got added to B’s reservation. Great dinner in a hotel dining room with a “closed” sign on the door and a schnauzer standing guard outside.Read more