Day 7 St-Guilhem to St J Blaquière, 27k

Spectacular day! Blue skies, big views, impeccably maintained trail, a mid-day cafe, a good dinner, and a typical municipal gîte run by really kind people. All the guides said it would be 22 km today. But at the end of the day all the Apple watches and gps things (except my under-estimating phone) said it was closer to 28. It did feel long by the end — the last two kilometers are always endless!

There was a lot of up today! Lots of stones. And a long, long down late in the day. But the trail underfoot this morning was amazing. No erosion. No obstacles. It started going up immediately. Up and over a small mountain? A big big hill? It took about an hour and a half to get to the highest point. The views on the way up were of green hills, some rocky ridges, a river. The views over the other side were of a wide flat plain with mountains way in the distance and, I think, a few flashes of the Mediterranean.

Highlights — the broom, a weird long train of caterpillars that was more than two metres long — some tiny daffodils, a nice stop for limonade on a shady terrace, a donkey sleeping standing up, and this final village, Saint-Jean-de-la-Blaquiere. Stones, a big square, beautiful church, arches and alleys. Three of us arrived at the same time.

The instructions were to go to the town hall to pay and register. Door to the gîte is always open. No key. Like everyone, the woman there was very kind. Full of information, making sure everyone was okay. A volunteer takes the reservations on her phone. And then a woman is paid by the village to clean. It’s spotless. Very simple, old building. Two small rooms. Mostly bunk beds but no one has to sleep on top.

We are 6. All women. Two young women on their first walk. They both have horrible blisters. Everyone else is trying to get them to stay sitting. Only two of us are walking more than a few days.

The dinner arrangements here: the woman who owns the small store makes individual servings of lasagna. Yesterday we called to reserve, and today we went and picked them up. Tiramisu for dessert. 10 euros for the meal. It was fab.

It’s Good Friday but not a holiday!

Tomorrow is short and ends in a small city. No food logistics to manage.Read more