Hardest part done

Most Camino guides suggest a first 'stage' going from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. That's a 25k walk, the first 70% uphill, crossing the Pyrenees, then going down on the Spanish side. It's said to be the hardest part of the whole Camino, with a 1,200m climb which is quite steep in some sections. I thought it was quite brutal for a first day.

First I was disappointed that the only daily bus from Pamplona to St Jean arrived in the early afternoon, because I would have to wait until the morning to start such a walk.

However, I got a very good idea from the Camino forum: I could break up that tough stage, walking the first 8k (all uphill) in the afternoon of arrival, staying at Orisson, then completing the stage the next day.

That's what I did, and worked out very well. I added a variation though: I didn't want to stay at Roncesvalles because that's what most people do. I wanted to walk to the next town, in this case only 3k further: Burguete.

I read good reviews about an albergue there, and I called the day before to book a bed.

The day before is the day I was walking to Orisson. They offered a communal dinner, and I met the other pilgrims. We were 32 guests, and there were more Aussies than any other nationally.

At my table there was Monika from Germany, Emanuelle & Sebastien from France, Peter from Melbourne and Natalie & Daniel, also from Melbourne. We were all above 40, and we had nice chats.

This morning we all started walking around the same time, but each couple or individual going at our own pace, and we met at random points during the walk. The walk was hard on the legs but easy on the eyes. The scenery was beautiful, and it was a gorgeous day. Very windy near the highest point, but otherwise just fantastic.

I found out that the people from my table were staying at Roncesvalles tonight. I met Monika and Peter there, at the monastery (pictured), and I sat with them for a rest in the shade before walking on.

On my way to Burguete I met a little girl called Aixea, who was walking with her grandpa and we had great conversation! She was about 6 and kept asking me questions. I asked some too when she let me 😄

When I got to Burguete I caught up with another group of younger people I met at Orisson. They were going to the same albergue I was, but didn't have a booking. The albergue opened at 3, and it was 2:30, so we all went to the bar across the road to rest and refuel.

At 3 we went back to the albergue and the caretaker said it was booked out! So, I could stay but the others couldn't. They were going to the next town 4k ahead.

The albergue is called Lorentx Aterpea and it is very modern and clean, as described in the review I read. I'm doing the same for tomorrow: staying 5k past the most popular stop, at a place with great reviews, and I just called to book 👍Read more