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Camino Francés 2022
  • Laura's Adventures

Camino Francés 2022

A 41-day adventure by Laura's Adventures Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 23, 2022
  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Last day at the office

    June 30, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    The countdown is on! I walked to and from the office today, and the next two weeks I'm working from home. The plan is to minimise any chance of catching covid as the departure date approaches.

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Last day out

    July 2, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Last social day out before starting voluntary iso, to minimise the chance of getting covid before the trip.
    The weather forecast for tomorrow and most of next week is horrendous! Perfect to stay at home 👌Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    The fridge challenge

    July 9, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I aim to eat everything in the fridge and unplug it before I go, but I still have 10 days ahead! I think I'm going through it too fast and will need to shop again 🤦🏻‍♀️

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Last work day before trip

    July 15, 2022 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Another milestone. It's starting to feel more real!
    This time the computer is not staying in sleep mode: it's shut down and unplugged. This is definitely getting serious!

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    At the airport

    July 20, 2022 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    The day has come! I arrived early to avoid feeling pressured. This was easy done, with a departure time of 3pm.
    It took 2 hours to get a boarding pass, go through security, get a TRS refund and have lunch. Less than 1 hour to kill before boarding starts!
    I was looking forward to an early end to winter for me, but now bracing for scorching heat that looks will be much harder to deal with... I will have to adjust to the conditions day by day.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Transit in Singapore

    July 20, 2022 in Singapore ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Almost 10pm and most shops are open - not that I'll buy anything here, but it helps pass the time.
    Oh, and the toilet was interesting! 😄

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Transit in Munich

    July 21, 2022 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Sunrise while still flying high, and nice view descending into Munich. I never associated Munich with farmland! Learning something already....
    All flights have been running on time and don't expect any less from the Germans. I also slept 5 hours or more. All going very well so far 👍Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Summer in Madrid

    July 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    It was 40°C as I was walking from the bus station to the hotel, on arrival in Madrid.
    I booked a tiny, cheap hotel walking distance to the city centre. It's a very old building with thick walls, I won't say that it's 'fresh' inside, but certainly the room is a little oasis, compared to the street.
    The rest of the day and night will still be hot, hot, hot! 🔥    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Catch up with school friend

    July 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 30 °C

    I was very happy to see A, a friend from high school who lives in Madrid and prefers not to appear on any social media. It was more than 10 years since we last met, lots to catch up on over a walk and pizza!Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Memories awaken

    July 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    I'd forgotten how Madrid looks so much like Buenos Aires

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Madrid, day of arrival

    July 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    It was such a full-on day! All flights were on schedule and I arrived at around 11 am. I took a bus to the city centre, and got a little worried: I tried to buy the ticket with my Aussie credit card and it was declined.
    I took this cc specifically for the trip and it was the first attempt to use it. Before leaving home I activated the card, and I notified the bank of my trip.
    So, I paid the bus ticket in cash. I brought some cash but not a lot, as I was planning to use the cc whenever possible.
    I couldn't get in touch with the bank, or get into the app, because there was no wifi access on the bus and I still had to get a local SIM, so I started to think of all the options I had in case I couldn't use my cc to buy the SIM. It's times like this when speaking the local language can make all the difference.
    At the SIM shop, payment didn't go through with the Wave method but it was accepted when I inserted the card in the machine and entered the PIN. That was a relief!
    Next purchase was a sandwich for lunch, and this time the Wave method worked. It has worked ever since. Felt like the card needed to warm up to the idea of being used in another country.

    I got off the airport bus at Atocha station, and from there walked 20 minutes to the hotel. That's when I was reminded of the likeness between Madrid and Buenos Aires, and took some photos.

    Next surprise: I got to the hotel at 1:30. It was very hot outside. The hotel turned out to be on the 1st floor of an old building, and the front door was closed. A bit odd, I thought. Rang the bell, no answer. Called the phone number on the door, no answer. Someone came towards the building, key in hand, and I asked if she was from the hotel. She wasn't, but let me in so I could knock on the door upstairs. There was a cleaner there, who had no idea about bookings, and she rang the person in charge, who had gone out to get lunch. She confirmed she was expecting me and would be there in 5 minutes. I was already in and away from the sun, and happy to wait. I was prepared for some kind of wait, as the usual check in time in most places is 2pm, and I was early.
    Monse arrived soon, she was lovely, showed me to my room, etc. and everything was fine. I had a small but comfortable room, with private bathroom and a fan. I didn't need anything more.
    I had a shower, organised my things, and checked with my friend A about plans for the evening. I bought bus tickets for the next 2 days, then went for a walk and something to eat.
    Later I did another walk with A. I walked about 20k total for the day, and hardly noticed it!
    I went to bed late, almost midnight. Didn't feel jet lagged at all.

    The main thing I really wanted to go according to plan, was the flights. Once here, I have lots of flexibility and I am ready to pivot anytime. The next thing I want to make is the first planned stop on the Camino, at Orisson on Saturday night. This is a small refuge where bookings are essential and hard to get, so I would very much like to make use of my booking and enjoy it.
    Even the bus tickets to get me to the start of the walk, I didn't buy until I got here, in case there were flight delays. Everything after Orisson is totally flexible and I will see how I go day by day until I get to Santiago.
    The next thing I can't miss, is getting to Berlin on 5 September to see my beautiful Evita, a.k.a. Preciosauria ❤.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Leaving Madrid

    July 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 36 °C

    Today I had 2 things to do:
    1. Send my wheelie bag to Santiago, where it will be held for me at the post office near the cathedral, to pick up when I get there within 45 days. I had to get to a post office in Madrid to do this.
    2. Catch a bus to Pamplona, from the bus interchange at Av. America, about 5k from my hotel.

    Last night, the pizza I shared with my friend was huge. I had 2 leftover slices packed to eat today. The hotel cleaning lady put them in a fridge for me.

    I went to bed close to midnight, tossing a few options for how things would go today: which post office to go to (city or bus terminal), how to get to the terminal (uber, metro, or walking), and where to have breakfast.

    I thought I would have plenty of time to decide in the morning, and I was leaning towards walking as much as possible.

    Little did I know, I slept so well, I woke up at 9am! The possibility of going out for breakfast and then coming back to the hotel to pick up my stuff and get on my way, was discarded immediately. No time for that, if I still wanted to walk.

    I got ready and set out to walk towards the bus terminal, carrying the wheelie bag all the way. There were 2 main reasons I decided against the city post office: it was closer, but a bit out of the way; and they opened at 10am (it seemed too late, when I found out last night).

    I thought I'd get my 5k walk in before breakfast, and sit down to eat once at the terminal, as then I would know exactly how much time I had.

    I checked the route on Google Maps, memorised the first few turns, put the phone away, and started walking.

    About 15 minutes in, I was looking out for a theatre, where I had to take a right turn. No sign of it, and my road was coming to an end. I checked the map and, sure enough, I had walked past it a while back. I was off course.

    To get back on track I now had to walk towards Puerta del Sol, where the city post office was. By the time I got there, it was 10:15, so it was open, and I went in. I had to wait in a line, and it was moving slow. Deep breath... it took over half an hour, but that was the first task of the day done. I had just enough time left to walk to the bus.

    I first thought that if I could beat Google's estimated walking time by 25% I could still have some breakfast at the station. I walked past nice cafes and tempting smoothies but stopping there would mean giving up on the rest of the walk, to take a metro or taxi, and I still preferred to keep walking.

    About halfway to the station I realised there was no chance I could beat Google's estimate. I had my full backpack on, and am naturally not too fast. I still had just enough time to get there by 12, and I knew food was not allowed on the bus.

    There's a bus change after the first 2.5 hours, with a 30 minute break between the two, but I'd need to get my breakfast before then. I had only one choice: out came the 2 slices of pizza from the side of my backpack, and I ate them while walking. I made it at 11:55 😅    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Pamplona

    July 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After 6 hours in air conditioned buses, it was a pleasant surprise to get off at Pamplona with a cool 23°C outside.
    I did a 15 minute walk to my accommodation for the night: Albergue Plaza Catedral.

    This is a private albergue. Albergues are hostal style places, with dorm rooms, many of which are exclusively for Camino pilgrims. My room has at least 6 sets of bunk beds, almost all occupied. They had booked me for a top bunk, but there was a cancellation and I was lucky that I could take a bottom bunk instead.

    Private albergues generally cost a little more and have better facilities than public ones. This one cost me 16€ including breakfast, and is my first albergue experience, although my Camino hasn't started yet.

    Once I had my bed and left my pack, I went out to explore a bit more of the city. I am staying in the historic centre, and it gets very lively in the evening. I took lots of pics.

    I was also a bit hungry, and I stopped for food on my walk. I'm actually surprised that I lasted that long (until 7pm) with only the 2 leftover slices of pizza that I had for brunch as all my solid food until then.

    I didn't get a chance to talk to anyone at the albergue because by the time I got back, had a shower and was ready to relax, it was close to 10pm and people were already trying to sleep.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Food

    July 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    For my second and last solid meal of the day, I went for a 'tortilla de patatas' (potato omelette). It was my favourite dish as a child. My mum's was better than any others I ever had, including this one. My mum's was crispier, because the potatoes were fried.

    During the walk I passed by a bakery that was the most popular shop in town. I'm sure there's good reason for it (see picture), but I wasn't going to wait in line to prove it.

    Instead, towards the end of the walk I treated myself to a small gelato for dessert. I never saw gelato served this way, like a rose (pictured).    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    First night in an albergue

    July 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    There were 14 beds in my room - 7 sets of bunks.
    The pic shows the view from my bed in the morning: there's a draw curtain that helps with privacy and the lights that go on and off at any hour as each other guest goes about their business. My backpack added to that. I hung it with an S hook, which I brought based on a tip I read on the Camino forum I've been following.

    I didn't sleep the whole night though but got up at 7 feeling rested enough. Luckily snoring in the room hasn't been too bad. I brought ear plugs but couldn't find them last night. I have to get better organised.

    I got the sleeping bag and liner out, but only needed the liner. It was warm in the room, despite the cool outside.

    The albergue is very clean, the showers and toilets are plentiful and in perfect condition. I will soon make use of the kitchen for the self-service breakfast, and then will have to pack everything up again, hoping to be able to easily find what I need, when I need it.    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    The most important thing

    July 23, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    "A journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step"
    Chinese proverb

    This was the single step that started me on this journey. How long it will be, I don't know. How it will all go, we shall see. But I know that nothing could ever happen without that first step.Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler
    1

    Orisson

    July 23, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It was a steep climb of about 8k from St Jean to the Orisson refuge. A little hot, but beautiful day and nowhere near the extreme heat of Madrid. The views were lovely!

    When I was getting close, I found a bunch of cows blocking the way. They were not budging, I had to walk around them.Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler
    1

    What a view!

    July 24, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    The view from my room when I woke up. Ahhhhh....!

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler
    1

    Hardest part done

    July 24, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Most Camino guides suggest a first 'stage' going from St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles. That's a 25k walk, the first 70% uphill, crossing the Pyrenees, then going down on the Spanish side. It's said to be the hardest part of the whole Camino, with a 1,200m climb which is quite steep in some sections. I thought it was quite brutal for a first day.

    First I was disappointed that the only daily bus from Pamplona to St Jean arrived in the early afternoon, because I would have to wait until the morning to start such a walk.

    However, I got a very good idea from the Camino forum: I could break up that tough stage, walking the first 8k (all uphill) in the afternoon of arrival, staying at Orisson, then completing the stage the next day.

    That's what I did, and worked out very well. I added a variation though: I didn't want to stay at Roncesvalles because that's what most people do. I wanted to walk to the next town, in this case only 3k further: Burguete.

    I read good reviews about an albergue there, and I called the day before to book a bed.

    The day before is the day I was walking to Orisson. They offered a communal dinner, and I met the other pilgrims. We were 32 guests, and there were more Aussies than any other nationally.

    At my table there was Monika from Germany, Emanuelle & Sebastien from France, Peter from Melbourne and Natalie & Daniel, also from Melbourne. We were all above 40, and we had nice chats.

    This morning we all started walking around the same time, but each couple or individual going at our own pace, and we met at random points during the walk. The walk was hard on the legs but easy on the eyes. The scenery was beautiful, and it was a gorgeous day. Very windy near the highest point, but otherwise just fantastic.

    I found out that the people from my table were staying at Roncesvalles tonight. I met Monika and Peter there, at the monastery (pictured), and I sat with them for a rest in the shade before walking on.

    On my way to Burguete I met a little girl called Aixea, who was walking with her grandpa and we had great conversation! She was about 6 and kept asking me questions. I asked some too when she let me 😄

    When I got to Burguete I caught up with another group of younger people I met at Orisson. They were going to the same albergue I was, but didn't have a booking. The albergue opened at 3, and it was 2:30, so we all went to the bar across the road to rest and refuel.

    At 3 we went back to the albergue and the caretaker said it was booked out! So, I could stay but the others couldn't. They were going to the next town 4k ahead.

    The albergue is called Lorentx Aterpea and it is very modern and clean, as described in the review I read. I'm doing the same for tomorrow: staying 5k past the most popular stop, at a place with great reviews, and I just called to book 👍    Read more

  • Laura's AdventuresCamino Francés 2022Traveler

    Espinal

    July 25, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    This morning I left Burguete with an empty stomach. The albergue was busy with a large group, and if I wanted breakfast there they could only serve me at 9 am, which was too late for me.

    So, I went on my way thinking I would buy something at the bakery nearby, or in the next town, only 4k up. The bakery was closed at 7:30, but I wasn't desperate and walked on to Espinal.

    I was getting quite hungry when I got there, and I was seeing more pretty houses, but no shops. Then, a promising sign read 'cafe open 24h', with an arrow pointing right. It was the direction I had to go anyway and was really looking forward to a nice cafe with home made goodies. Big disappointment after I turned that corner and saw that the 'cafe' was... a vending machine!!

    There were a bunch of Italians eating and drinking next to the machines. I asked if that was the only cafe in town, and they said it was. I had some coins, and got a hot chocolate and a piece of lemon sponge. Better than nothing 🤷🏻‍♀️

    Then I kept on walking, and 200m ahead there was a real cafe! 😣 Too late, I had enough to keep going, and that's what I did.    Read more

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