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  • Roland Routier

Renault Roaming

Italy -- Croatia - ?
All in my little Red Renault Trafic
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  • Stuck in the Perast

    12. heinäkuuta 2019, Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    A few km up the bay, Perast used to be rich and famous, boasting 16 churches and 17 grand palazzos. Well they used to be grand and some of them will be again as properties have been snapped up by investors and many turned into high class restaurants.

    I missed the annual commemoration of the 1654 victory over the Turks, Gadjanje Kokota or 'shooting the cock'. Yes, it's a competition to shoot a rooster. Nothing to crow about in these enlightened times but tradition is tradition.uu

    Local police like to make the no parking rules explicit when issuing tickets.
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  • Kotor cruising

    12. heinäkuuta 2019, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    There is no escape from the looming presence of the cruise liner, except perhaps by climbing the city walls which stretch up the cliffs behind the town.
    Have to include the image of the laundry hung out to dry across a tourist footpath by a local resident intent on asserting her prior rights.Lue lisää

  • Kotor town

    12. heinäkuuta 2019, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It is believed to have started as the Roman town of Acruvium but owes most of its current beauty to 400 years of Venetian rule as Cattaro.
    The ambience is laid back without any significant tourist attraction and many restaurants. Nevertheless, when the cruise ships come in, the place is filled.Lue lisää

  • Kotor

    12. heinäkuuta 2019, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    To counter the magnificent mountains of Montenegro, the bay of Kotorska offers a beautiful harbour setting that attracts the mega-rich in their mega-yachts as well as the medium rich on their cruise ships.

    Go spa of Skrpjela (Our Lady of the Rock) is an artificial island enveloping a rock on which an image of the Madonna was found. Since its construction on 22 July 1452 locals row over once a year to add more stones to the mass. Known as the Fasinada, only male descendants of the leading families in Perast are required to row over in a convoy of decorated and roped together boats.

    "Children against the pollution of the Adriatic" have created sculptures from recovered flotsam and jetsam which adorn the walls, including this dragon chained to the earth by plastic bottles.
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  • Most na Mostanici & lakes

    12. heinäkuuta 2019, Montenegro ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The Romans built a bridge across the Mostanica river in 4 BCE but it moved, or maybe the water did. Now it is stuck out in a farmers field all by itself.

    Montenegro seems to be full of lakes. Spano and Krupac here shown.ccLue lisää

  • Onogost

    10. heinäkuuta 2019, Montenegro ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Yes, as advertised (just) over the entrance door in this town now known as Niksic, there really is a restaurant inside!
    Cigarette stalls mark many crossroads.

    The Serbian Orthodox St Basil of Ostrog Cathedral is filled with icons, a few Byzantine and many early 20th C ones in a more realistic style. Like many such churches, there are no pews but stalls surround the walls.
    The stones or 'stecci' are medievil tombstones from between the 12th and 16th C. Of note are the pre-Christian burial stones. Made by unknown masons, (who called themselves 'blacksmiths',) their decorative motifs are a fusion of Slavic pagan and Orthodox / Catholic symbolism.
    The once Royal palace is now the local museum.
    The steelworks can be seen lurking in the background of the cemetery it helped populate.

    BTW, the place is famous for its beer too. Called Niksicko I believe it was named after its principal effect.
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  • Gorge ous

    9. heinäkuuta 2019, Montenegro ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    The road from Sarajevo to Pluzine in Montenegro steadily grew worse, that is narrower and rougher until it was virtually one at a time. The TIR lorries had to travel at less than 20 kph since they occupied the entire road, especially on hairpin bends. Shades of the Northern Frontier in Pakistan. Along the way I noticed quite a few houses being rebuilt, but little investment in infrastructure. Hard to escape the feeling that Bosnia is the runt of the Balkan litter. And to cap it all, the guard at the border post leaving Bosnia wanted to stop me as he said my Green Card was not valid in BiH. Luckily they let me through without a shakedown but it was a bizarre thing to check, after the event one might say.
    But the journey was worth it to see the inspiration for the O'Hara plantation name. Once again it was pouring with rain as I raced along the smooth road to Pluzine, so while Black Mountain loomed ahead in the Durmitor National Park, there was no chance of an awesome photo. The existence of this fractured terrain is what has guaranteed the Montenegran independence.
    The Tara gorge is one of the deepest in the world, only 300' less than the Grand Canyon, and a magnet for kayakers and rafters. The mountain ranges are some of the last true wilderness areas left in Europe and many paths cross them for trekkers, who have to carry their own supplies. The Montenegrins seem to be aware of the potential but hopefully will not make the interior more accessible.
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  • In Burton's footsteps

    9. heinäkuuta 2019, Bosnia ja Hertsegovina ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    By now it must seem obvious that my tour of Europe is turning into a tour of Hollywood film sets. In this case I turned right instead of left and arrived at Richard Burton's - "The Partisan" - place.
    The film commemorates the heroism of the resistance to the Axis forces during WWII. Here at Sutjeska, in a remote valley carved by the Dina River, a massive battle took place in May / June 1943 with the intent of wiping out the resistance movement. There were 16 partisan brigades comprising 15,700 soldiers and 4000 wounded, many with typhus.Against them were 127,000 Axis troops, 8 artillery regiments, tanks and 300 aircraft.
    Following the abject failure of a fourth attempt at suppression, the campaign called "Case White", Hitler got quite cross and ordered another one, Case Black, with orders starting:
    "Units are obliged and authorised to use every means in this battle, without limits and against women and children as well if it leads to success ... ...."
    It didn't. But the Germans did ensure that none of the wounded or sick, or their nurses survived. Their justification was the existence of typhus.
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  • Oriental meeting

    9. heinäkuuta 2019, Bosnia ja Hertsegovina ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The old, touristic part of Sarajevo is also small and resembles the Middle East. As a predominantly Moslem environment perhaps it should not have come as a surprise, but it is definetely a relic of times past, as the extensive, modern, high rise blocks show.
    After walking around to gain an impression of the place I left without any feeling for it at all.
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  • Another bridge too far

    9. heinäkuuta 2019, Bosnia ja Hertsegovina ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The second thing to see in Bosnia was the place where feudal times ended: the bridge at Sarajevo. The first curiosity I noticed was the sign on the library building, showing once again that Serbian aggression will not be forgotten for a long time. Perhaps it also explains why I was not allowed inside unless part of a guided tour.
    The bridge itself - the Latin Bridge - was small; the type of ornamental bridge one might find in a country house garden. Another sign reminded me of the Bosnian ability to focus on the important points. It marks the spot where a monument commemorating the assassinations of the Archduke and his wife used to stand. No mention of the historic nature of the place and its significance to world history.
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  • Pyramid schemes

    8. heinäkuuta 2019, Bosnia ja Hertsegovina ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Entering Bosnia was easy enough, presumably their application to join the EU helps, even though their application has been returned yet again for completion, and the change in Country was underlined by the decline in road conditions. It was immediately obvious that Jasenovac was not forgotten any more than the 1991 war, for the first signpost boldly announce "Republic of Srpska", thus excluding the central and non-Serbian part of the country.

    The first town, Brad, bravely announced "Municipality of Favourable Business" so maybe there is hope yet.

    There were only two things I wanted to see in BiH and Visoko was the first. This was where 20 years ago a Bosnian archaeologist, now resident in Houston Texas, discovered the remains of ancient pyramids and sacred sites dating back 34,000 years. And not only were they older than the Egyptian Pyramids but taller and more accurately (12 seconds of arc,) aligned with the Geographic North Pole!
    The entrance to the largest, the Pyramid of the Sun, lay in a tunnel 3km distant and for 10 Euros I joined a guided tour in English by a volunteer who had all the facts down pat. The tunnel had been filled in with loose material and was gradually being revealed by amateur teams as money allowed.
    Although the side tunnels and meandering path, together with its catenary shape reminded me of Predil, especially when the guide was recounting the curative effects on respiratory ailments that some people have experienced by sitting in underground chambers 40m under the hill, at a steady 12.5 C, other curious facts underlined the importance and uniqueness of this location. For you see, there were amazing ceramic objects found at several places, directly above flowing water to harness and focus the beneficial electromagnetic frequencies creating a positive experience for visitors. [Ceramic here means shale containing silica baked at high temperatures.] I'm afraid the scientific explanation involving Hartmann intersections and Bovis fields was too advanced for my comprehension, but the invitation to try was not one I could ignore. (For after all, I tried defining with copper rods for opal seams and definitely felt something.) And so when instructed to rub my hands vigorously together and hold them 10cm above this cracked ceramic stone I did so with an open mind. Hot sensations implied health and cold ones required more time in the healing chamber.
    Well, you won't be surprised to learn that I did feel something: I felt my blood circulating in my hot little hands. Well, what would you expect after the application of friction and concentration of the mind?
    One of the more important discoveries, (at least in my mind,) was a stone with runic emblems carved on it. Although the guide avoided showing it to us, I escaped the tour long enough to take a photo. Nobody has interpreted it apparently and later, a guide could not tell me who was conducting the research on this unique and culturally explosive object.

    In fact, after being presented with this archaeological site in terms leaving no doubt as to its significance to Europe, historically, culturally and touristically I was a little surprised that there was no EU involvement, no UNESCO application, in fact no university involvement in the project at all.

    I enjoyed myself, particularly wondering around the healing garden where I learned that the sign for infinity, the man-made symbol for an imaginary concept, had enormous positive energy attracting potential activated by sitting for no more than 15 minutes in each segement. So I interrupted my garden stroll, sat down for 10 minutes and felt rested. So it must have worked.
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  • Fairy fortress

    7. heinäkuuta 2019, Kroatia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Another 40 km diversion took me to Duzluk a pleasant provincial Serbian town in the mountains of NW Croatia. I came to see this old ruin, Ruzica Grad, (Rose Town,) one of the largest mediaevil castles in Croatia with walls 9m thick and reputed to be haunted by ghosts.
    Once large enough to house barracks, church and governor's mansion the Turks destroyed it and rebuilt only enough to serve themselves: so there really is nothing much left to see but magnificent views to the Hungarian mountains across the Pannonian plain. The plain was formed about 14 million years ago when the oceans flooded this area and subsequently became separated again. The volume of water in the sea and flowing into it was sufficient to keep it in existence long enough to become a fresh water lake before evaporating completely. The fossil record tells a rich and fascinating history of this evolution.
    The region around Orahovica is known for its wines and after leaving the roses, (not that I found any evidence for them so why they named the place thus I can't fathom,) I came across the Cistercian Wine Cellar at Kutjevo. Closed alas, but a sign informed me that it had been established there since 1232 - or maybe that is opening time.
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  • Campsite

    6. heinäkuuta 2019, Kroatia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    After the Independent State of Croatia was established by the force of the Axis powers behind it, the first thing the Croat leaders did was to clear the decks of undesirables: that is anybody who did not agree with them or who posed a potential threat. A number of concentration camps were established, amongst them Jasenovac and Stara Gradiska In a unhealthy swampland conveniently serviced by an existing train line. Whilst they were not extermination camps like Auschwich, the inmates still died, mainly from disease, malnourishment and overwork though plenty were shot, (some whilst trying to escape.) In the museum, a torn scrap of cardboard with "thirsty" scrawled on it records an episode when the notorious camp commandant ordered on section of the camp to be denied food and water - until they were no more.
    Stara G soon became a holding facility for women and children. The women were sent on to labour camps in Germany and the children were left behind, soon to die from malnutrition and untreated diseases.
    The exact number of people perishing will probably never be known. So far 82,570 have been identified by name: 47,141 Serbs, 16,148 Roma, 13,041 Jews, 4,235 Croats, 1,129 Bosnian Muslims. And of these, about 20,000 were children under 14.
    Video testimonies from survivors make it clear that people were not targeted for religious or ethnic reasons but because they were not "People Like Us" and in particular many were communists and actively opposing the State. That's why Orthodox Christian Croats were included as well.
    Unlike the German SS with no sense of shame who kept their camps going until virtually until the Allies arrived, the Ustase knew exactly what they were doing and made every effort to destroy the evidence before their enemy turned up. Hence there are no buildings left standing and this memorial flower grows alone out of the fields now returned to hay.

    As I left, I could not help but notice the tattooed lightening bolt on the neck of the security guard. It could all happen again so easily.
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  • Spomenik

    5. heinäkuuta 2019, Kroatia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    30 km off the main highway I entered a secluded valley where anti-Axis partisans had a large base and hospital. From Podgaric Tito launched his uprising against the despised Ustase forces of the Independent State of Croatia. After hostilities ended the authorities decided to build this "Spomenik":
    "Here are buried 900 soldiers from the wider area of Moslavine, who sacrificed their lives for the freedom and independence of our nation during the National Liberation struggle from 1941 - 1945."

    The wings of victory are represented in this concrete monument; and a fuller description of the symbolism is on-line.
    It was a very peaceful place in the setting sun which I could enjoy alone until a man drove up to exercise his dog.
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  • TB or not TB, that was the question

    4. heinäkuuta 2019, Kroatia ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    There was a young lad, Milivoj Dežman, who fancied the girl who lived up the street, Ljerka Šram and had dreams of marriage and so on. She agreed to wait for him to finish his medical studies in Graz, whilst she embarked on a theatrical career.
    Alas, on his return he discovered that she was now Mrs, and well on her way to stardom on stage. So he did what anybody would do: he started writing plays for her to perform.
    As one might expect from theatrical types at the turn of the century, Ljerka's hubbie fell into debt and did a runner leaving her behind. So she moved in with Milivoj.
    But a popular and attractive actress cannot be left to enjoy life without drama, and sure enough she soon caught tuberculosis. Poor Milivoj was not to be with his sweetheart for long after all and he spent his time pressurising the authorities to build a sanatorium for TB patients.
    Thus it came to pass that Brestovac Sanatorium was built on the mountain overlooking Zagreb, Mt Medvednica, where the clean, cool air could ease the suffering of people whom the medical profession were unable to help. It opened in May 1909 just in time to lodge Ljerka before her death, in her lover's arms so it is said, in November 1913, aged 39.
    Naturally the story doesn't end there: a good actress doesn't die on stage (which she very nearly did having to abandon her last performance after a violent coughing fit,) and her blood soaked spectre was soon seen roaming the grounds, detering visitors for other patients unfortunately. Even better, she started recruiting other night walkers; forming a proper little army of ghosts rambling around the grounds. And real, dead soldiers who had been buried in the hospital catacombs after WWII joined them as well.
    Nowadays nobody goes there at night and paintballers use it during the day.
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  • Resetting history

    4. heinäkuuta 2019, Kroatia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The body of Alojzije Stepinac 1898 - 1960 is displayed in the rather ordinary cathedral. A placard says:
    "Cardinal Archbishop of Zagreb; defender of God's and human rights amid the madness and savagery of WWII; condemned by the communists; martyr of totalitarian regimes."
    And stuffed by the Church for prosperity.
    This is to see the Catholic Church at work massaging history. For a start he wasn't martyred: he died of illness. More important though is his record during the fascist era, when he did little and often nothing to oppose the authorities. Not surprising the Communists, whom he feared more, had little truck with him. And not surprising that a major multi-national rather than confronting its own actions in the face of fascism, chooses to whitewash history from the lowest level upwards. Very clever.
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  • Letting go

    4. heinäkuuta 2019, Kroatia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The Museum of Broken Relationships is an intriguing phenomenon which was unique although I believe that the Americans have copied the idea, (without payment of course.)
    People from all over the world have sent a variety of objects which reminded them of a relationship they had. The first exhibit is a bycycle which a lady had used for 30 odd years and which she callously replaced with a newer model! Not all are love stories, though many are, in fact the most touching are a series of photos of refugees holding momentoes of people with whom they were once in some sort of relationship, family / colleague / fellow children.
    This wavy line struck me as a little different from the others, so I include it and its label for your viewing pleasure.
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  • Zagreb

    3. heinäkuuta 2019, Kroatia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Stopped for a drink with Ana in Zagreb. We had a couple of beers by the Maksimir Park and avoided the welcomed thunderstorm.
    The city has been smashed up so often that there is not a lot left to see. There is Gornji Grad and Donji Grad. Tthe Upper Town, (no parking, no traffic, narrow streets, pavement cafes,) and the Lower Town, (no parking, loads of traffic, wide streets, Baroque office buildings,) with little to distinguish them from a thousand other medieval towns in central Europe.
    Somethings were a little bizarre. For example, one open air cafe was decorated with laundery, white underwear hanging on lines above the clientel, (too dark at night to photo).
    One advantage of starting over is that there are dual lane roads all over the place, as well as trams and buses. So the place, although soulless, makes an efficient working environment. [At least when the the council don't dig up one of the highways without making any provision for redirection or changing traffic light timings, which causes gridlock. I can vouch for that taking 2 hrs for a journey that should have been 10 mins.]
    And one of the other big pluses is that the Medvednica Mountain National Park starts 10 mins North. There are numerous trails starting from Bliznic Park at the bottom of the road up to Sljme, The highest peak, at 1,035 m. Instead of walking the dog in the park, many locals take them for a run up the hill. Or go for a bike ride up the road.
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  • Trakoscan

    2. heinäkuuta 2019, Kroatia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Scored a freebe here: the entrance barriers were opened and unstaffed.
    Turns out that the martial needs of the Grad fizzled out with the passing of the 16th C and from then it was mainly a country house. After a comfortable refit in the mid 18th C, the rooms remain as they were for us to enjoy today. Much like Petworth say, or South Park.
    As you may guess, I was much taken with the library and its indiscrete mass heater. One of the unusual features was their method of stoking. The house was built around a square, central courtyard with balconies at each floor. The servants could use these invisibly to access the rear of the heaters the fire doors of which opened onto a balcony.
    You may wonder why I include a photo of the kitchen range.
    Guess why.

    Hint: ostraches and emus.

    Ans: no flue.
    This is the only case I have ever seen where the pressure of the oven is used to force the smoke down, under the floor and into the chimney.
    Remarkable!.
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  • Another old town.

    1. heinäkuuta 2019, Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    The recorded history of Ptuj starts in the Iron Age but it peaked early, in Roman times, before settling into the role of a market town. As much as one can be, situated on the major invasion route.
    The Grad (castle) was taken over by Renault for the evening that I visited. I didn't stay to see this years new models and there was little else of interest to me.
    The maroon tower, (known as the Town Tower,) is a prominent landmark. There are a collection of recovered stones inside masquerading as a museum.
    The 13th C Dominican Monestary looks very gay all in pink. Probably left over from Mardi Gras.
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  • More dragons

    29. kesäkuuta 2019, Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    The old "Butchers' " bridge was rebuilt with dragons so that it would be snapped up everyday- or at least snapped.
    Afterwards I enjoyed listening to a free concert, grooving to the local melodies. Then I discovered they were Bosnian. Still nice though.Lue lisää

  • Berlin

    29. kesäkuuta 2019, Slovenia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Well, it could be. This is another famous squat where student artists commandeered a vacant factory to redevelop into a tourist treat.

  • Ljubljana

    29. kesäkuuta 2019, Slovenia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    The capital is a charming place, despite the numerous sightseers (unlike Idrija which was virtually empty,) and the centre echoes the feeling of Salzburg, Vienna or Prague. Probably owing to the number of buildings designed by the architect, Joze Plecnic.Lue lisää