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    el jardin de la luza

    21 Mei 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    But this is Southern Spain in Spring and who cares? The photos show a lovely quiet country retreat and all is peaceful.
    A 2000 Euro tent is provided for happy campers.
    There are some mozzies from the frog pond: we loaded a lorry with 2 tons of stone and layed it around the edges.
    The row of windmills are far enough not to cause a disturbance, although on some nights the faint whine of the turbines can just be heard over the call of the frogs and the hooting of a couple of owls. (No 'towit', just 'towoo'.)    Baca lagi

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    Given the brush off

    25 Mei 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Last year Vejer de la Frontera, (so distinguished for being the frontier with the Moors,) was awarded the Silver Broom Award by the Association for the Environment and Waste Management, ATEGRUS. The whiteness of the streets and their cleanliness were cited as contributory factors although what other contributions changed hands has not been divulged. Certainly there was no evidence of dogs or cats and surprisingly none of the mini-van sized, colour coded, plastic recycling and refuse bins that most towns and cities leave lying around in the hope that citizens will fill them rather than dumping things in the street.
    So, as Wittgenstein might have asked, does saying that the silver broom is in Vejer really mean that the silver broomstick is there, and so is the brush, and the broomstick is fixed in the brush?    Baca lagi

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    Fake news alert!

    25 Mei 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    The guidebooks say that Vejer de la Frontera was founded like all the other Pueblos Blancos by the Phoenicians but this photo clearly establishes the fact that it was actually established by Martians whose flying saucer broke down whilst on a fly-by. They made numerous attempts, the relics of which may be seen in the distance, to manufacture an alternative flying machine, but clearly the propellers failed to provide enough thrust to take-off. So they gave up and settled down.Baca lagi

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    Games of Hazas

    25 Mei 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Vejer was built in a defensive position 194m ASL and excavations have recently uncovered the "existence of an oriental-type population dating back to the 8thC" (sic).
    I can only surmise this to mean they found the remains of a Chinese take-away.

    The early history is the common Andalucian one with a slight twist to the tail. Exposed as the inhabitants were to the perils of banditry, (one door in the city walls - the Puerta Cerrada - remained bricked up for 200 years as it faced the direct road from the seas frequented by Barbary pirates,) the King granted them perpetual rights to the land, water, wells and hills of the town.
    All was well until the 15thC when our old friends the Guzman family, (whose great great grandfather you may remember had been given this town as well as others for his readiness to provide the knife for his kidnapped son's murder,) decided to grab the lot.
    Well the town revolted and, led by Juan Relinque (photo) who did not live up to his name, harried the Guzmans for several years. Finally, the Courts decided in favour of the townsfolk: a decision which has endured to this day.
    Now sharing land in common is all very good, but someone has to work and maintain it. Thus the Spanish Lotto or Tombola was born. Every leap year on Dec 22nd, these cages are spun containing the names of the eligible and the winner is awarded the land, known as the "Hazas de Suerte" or "Plots of Fortune". This ancient rite was also nicked from the Spanish without creditation and you may know it as "Wheel of Fortune".    Baca lagi

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    The entailed estate

    25 Mei 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Another curious fact surrounds the tower known as "Mayorazgo", in English the XII -XIVth C "Tower of the Entailed Estate".
    It should have belonged to Ricardo Autopiedra but there was a problem of conflicting wills which resulted in the famous and very long-winded suit "Frascoydados and Frascoydados" in the Tribunal de la Cancillería.

    What the Dickens has this to do with Vejer? Well the rather bleak story became the unacknowledged source for a famous novel published in 19thC England and later adapted for TV and film. Now I know how it started.

    Coda: In Spanish law, MAYORAZGO means the right to the enjoyment of certain aggregate property, left with the condition thereon imposed that they are to pass in their integrity, perpetually, successively to the eldest son.    Baca lagi

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    The veiled virgins of Vejer

    25 Mei 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Vejer "Te Cobija" - Traditional dress

    The COBIJAO is the typical costume of Vejer, consisting of:
    - white petticoats with embroidered ribbons
    - a white blouse adorned with lace
    - a black sash around the waist over which the bordered lace of the petticoats protrude
    - a black gathered cloak with a silk lining completely covering the woman except for the left eye
    You might think this was a version of the Niqab or Burqa and it probably does have an old, Arab connection, but in fact its origin is Castilla in the XVI - XVIIth C.
    The girls used it to look coy and reveal glimpses of exciting lace to tantalise the boys. The authorities on the other hand saw wearing it as the potential concealment of criminal artifacts and periodically banned it - most recently in 1936.
    It was only in 1976 that its use was permitted again but by then postwar shortages had forced many women to recycle the material into modern fashions. Now it is only worn by selected women - the Cobijado - on Patron Saint days.    Baca lagi

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    Garden priest

    10 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    This type of slugs are known locally as the Bishops. Could the colours have something to do with it, (Communist, Fascist, Communist, Fascist etc) or is it their habits? At any rate, I dont think this Bishop is hearing confessions.)

    PS Black / red is also the Anarchist colours.    Baca lagi

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    The family

    10 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    In a previous post, Casa de la Luz, Jane and Louis made their entry to the story.
    Jane is a 70's backpacker / flower child who has regaled me with tales of her trip to India in the back of a 3 Tonne Bedford lorry just after the first Gulf War. Now she teaches English and looks after 7 year old Florence. Here she is pictured in front of her 2000 Euro tent after hosting a garden party.
    Louis is leading his rescue donkey, around the garden in search of fresh grass. Originally from Norwich he has had a variety of occupations such as DJ, taxi driver and house renovator . He has been chef on board the "Sumurun", a beautiful 2 million pound 1920's wooden sailing yacht as well as restoring an old house in Fez with traditional Tadelakt plaster work.
    Louis' father was an American airforce soldier based in Norwich during the Korean war and returned to the USA immediately following his demob. His mother was not fazed by this and went on to have another 10 children by two different fathers. He remembers little racism in Norwich as he grew up: in fact at 14 he was a skinhead running through the town "paki bashing" (because that was what the newspapers said that skinheads do. Unfortunately, or perhaps fortunately, there were no pakis in Norwich to bash, so the gang used to run through town without hindrance, becoming a little non-plussed at what to do after the rage. They usually went home for tea apparently.
    Shortly after arriving in Vejer he was given a photo of his father and Jane tenaciously searched online through old records and Ancestry.com to discover an extensive family in Virginia. Many descended from slaves and still in the vicinity of their forefathers manumission. Louis is a good mimic and recreated his phone calls to previously unimagined step brothers and sisters, most of whom he could not understand, was very amusing. So in August they will be off to the States to visit the relos.
    On the trampoline with not so little Flo, (who has the height of a 12 year old,) are Robin and Emily who have just arrived for a holiday. He is studying robotics at Leeds and she is about to start a Film making course at Sussex.
    The family is rounded off by 1 donkey, 2 cats and 3 chickens who all think they should be allowed to enter the house when they feel like it. Life on the campo!    Baca lagi

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    Guinness me!

    11 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Once part of the Muslim system of surveillance of the strait, El Palomar de La Breña is a rural hotel for 7770 pigeons or doves located on an 18th century hacienda in San Ambrosio (Barbate), south of Vejer de la Frontera.
    The 400m² complex of single and double occupancy, terracotta rooms is listed apparently in the Guinness Book of Records as the largest dovecote in the world.
    It is divided into parallel alleys separated by high, meter thick walls to provide the birds 'thermal comfort'. The trough the center of the patio provides communal bathing and drinking , offered the birds a place where they could drink sheltered from the wind and predators. Doves and pigeons inhabit the same nest for many years and thus are a reliable source of raw material.
    Unlike Northern dovecotes where the guests formed part of the winter food chain, the footed and the feathered coexisted symbiotically. Potassium Nitrate from pigeon poo is a basic raw material for gunpowder. The guano was also very suitable for the cultivation of hemp and tobacco. At a time when the Americas trade was demanding guns, sails and ropes in large quantity, this guano plant was raking it in - in all ways. 10 to 15 tons of guano per anum, requiring an approximate area of ​​2,500 hectares of feed.
    They also used them as messengers and, yes, rumour has it that some ended up in the pot.    Baca lagi

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    I see no ships

    12 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Cape Trafalger lighthouse rests on a rocky island connected to the mainland by a sea made sand spit. And that's all the info there is.
    But we know better and can chuckle when we see (just) the Roro ships keeping a close line astern to protect themselves from the .dastardly poms. Felt like shouting: " IT DIDNT WORK BEFORE AND IT WONT WORK NOW".Baca lagi

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    Tacita de plata

    13 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    "The little silver cup" is how the tourist industry likes to evoke Cadiz. According to history (the Romans version,) it was founded by the Tartessians 3100 years ago although the earliest archaeological evidence is 300 years later when the Canaanites (called Phoenicians by the Greeks after their red cloaks,) settled the area and named it Gadir, (meaning 'enclosed area').
    As their home base, Tyre, declined the Carthaginians took over from which to conduct the Punic Wars. The folk were not too impressed by this and signed an agreement with Rome, becoming Gades and one of the most important cities if Hispania.
    The rest is predictable - inundated with Goths, invaded by Muslims, reconquest by Christian Kings. The Renaissance gave the place a boost as it became the port of embarkation and arrival for the American Trade which made many townsfolk into well-off burghers favouring free trade and a Monarchy. When those perfidious Frenchies started hammering at the gates during the Napoleonic Wars, Cadiz as it was henceforward called, provided refuge and a place for the Spanish Parliament to draft the first Spanish Constitution 'La Pepa'.
    1. Puerto de Tierra, marking the entrance to the the old city
    2. Looking towards the Castillo de Sebastian, which was closed
    3. A municipal WC. Yes really! Costs 1 Euro 10
    4. This reminds the tourist office of the Havana Beachfront (spruiking the American trade connection no doubt.)
    5. From the Cathedral tower
    6. The town boasts 3 Roman ampitheatres. I visited one with a capacity of 10,000 but a dim view of the customers    Baca lagi

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    Jerez

    15 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Entered town in less style than these folk with the aim of visiting Sandeman bodega (went to school with a couple of the lads) and sampling some of the golden nectar. And very nice it was too.

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    Catedral

    15 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Arriving at 4, the end of siesta time, it only took about ten minutes to find an overnight parking spot at the end of Calle Calzada del Arroyo, not 400m from the Cathedral just outside the city walls.
    I walked through the old gate up the cobbled streets into town and the first thing I found was the Catedral de Jerez de la Frontera. Although I could have paid to visit, a quick glimpse through an open door reassured me that the story was the same and the gloomy medieval paintings similar to those in other places.    Baca lagi

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    Closed for business

    15 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Other than the cathedral, there are several churches scattered in the neighbourhood, each one closed for "cultural visits" except at rare times (eg 7 to 8 at night). The French have a much better system, the State owns and maintains the buildings of cultural interest and rents them back to the religious organisations for their non-exclusive use.
    For example, San Dionisio, San Mateo, San Lucas and El Carmen where any enquiry is stonewalled.
    Jerez gives the air of a work in progress as there are many opportunities to refurbish old buildings. New apartment blocks have been built within existing structures or along ancient alleys to give the inhabitants the comforts of light and dry living spaces, without destroying the atmosphere of tradition.
    It feels like a rural, market town. Comfortable, self-possessed, focused on the local industry (wine) which assures it is self-sufficient without a great need for pretension.    Baca lagi

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    Cantering through the centre

    15 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    An old fashioned Merry-Go-Round had been installed in the central square of town, Plaza de la Asuncion. Jerez is one of the important equestrian centres in Spain, so I chuckled to see the formal horse on a pedestal watching the frivolous ponies go round and round and up and down whilst remaining static and haughty. Must have been the Generalissimo on his back.
    Jerez seemed to have one small plaza after another, each with benches, most with trees and some with bars, like this one.
    The houses all look rather bland on the outside, but occasionally an door left ajar allows a glimpse of the cool, intimate courtyard within each one. A Moorish design element still appreciated today.
    The modern trend in Southern Spain is to hunt the sun, although some people take it to extremes. I mean, making a Steamer chair on one's balcony is a bit OTT don't you think?    Baca lagi

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    How the toffs live

    15 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    An example of the restraint in houses can be seen in these aristocratic houses, Palacio Domecq and Casa Perez Luna.
    The Palacio Virrey Laserna allowed me to visit a few rooms for 12 Euros and a state tax sunsidy. The first Count, (El General D. Jose de Laserna y Martinez de Hinojosa, Ier Conde de los Andes,) made his money in South America and returned after a series of battles without Spanish reinforcements had depleted his military capability to the point were Simon Bolivar could front up and take over. The family still live in the house he returned to. It reminded me of the Consulate in Tangier or of Southdown house more than of a palace.
    No photos allowed, alas, though there are probably some online. I took a couple in the garden to show the tiles, made in Spain but inspired by the Americas. Most are original, but the younger son of the present Count, who escorted me around, assured me they were still available today in case of breakage. Now there is after sales care.    Baca lagi

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    If you've seen one ... ...

    15 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    No town worthy of the appellation "de la Frontera" would advertise itself to the world without its own Alcazar Mezquita Arabe.
    Since they are all similar, I did not more than peak inside.
    Under its walls, an unnamed man is fighting an enemy in one direction, whilst what can only be an early form of arrow machine gun is aiming in the opposite one. In this heat, fleche wounds are deadly.Baca lagi

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    Cool cloister

    15 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    In the middle of the day I found sanctuary in the cool cloister of the Monasterio de Santo Domingo, now vacant.
    Yet another cloister photo is included because I liked the peacefulness of the scene. Also there are a couple of excellent illustrations of architectural conflict.Baca lagi

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    Visited Seville

    16 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Famous for its rocket and its cathedral.
    The Cathedral is big and solid with thick, sturdy pillars. Crocodiles like it.
    The lady on top points the direction according to which way the wind blows. She is a good Catholic.
    People put funny things on their houses. I don't know what they are.
    ===================
    The official name for the lady, a 1568 bronze statue by Bartolome Morel was "Victrix Fideri Colossum". Don Quixote with his reputation for courting called her the "Giganta de Seville" and wondered at his lack of success with the fair sex. Now it is known as "la Giralda" or even "Giraldillo".
    This is a copy made by Jose Antonio Marquez to serve during restoration of the original.    Baca lagi

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    A Revolutionary, with his Arms

    16 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    "Roland! At last you have arrived. Welcome, welcome to my city"
    "Well Soi me old mate, its a real pleasure to see you again. But since your all togged up, shouldn't I be calling you 'Generale'?"
    "Por favor, formality is not needed between us: just call me Bolly as all the cognoscenti do."
    And they rode of together into the sunset to view the city.    Baca lagi

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    What it looks like

    17 Jun 2018, Sepanyol ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    From high up it becomes obvious why the temperature is 44 degrees C today. The city is flat, in the middle of a plain which the Guadal_quivir saunters through.
    The "Young American Doing Europe" season has begun, filling the streets with throngs in thongs mixed in with a few Marines looking for the Guadal_canal.
    I found a free parking spot about 1500m from the centre which was great but warm as the temperature dropped only to about 23 degrees at night. The young lady having a siesta does so with good reason: by about 15:00 it gets too hot to really do anything, but after about 6 the temperature starts dropping steadily and by 9 it is quite comfortable.    Baca lagi

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