Day 41 Shikoku Pilgrimage — Day 2:

The Road to Enlightenment (and Cheesecake!)

14.5 miles | Temples 8, 9 & 10

After a substantial Japanese breakfast of salmon, rice, miso soup and assorted mysterious little dishes, we set off under brilliant blue skies for another day on the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage.

Today’s three temples — Kumadaniji, Hōrinji and Kirihataji — each offered something different. Beautiful wooden gates, magnificent pagodas, intricate carvings and rows of little Jizō statues dressed in bright pink and red bibs. These figures are associated with protecting children and travelers, a comforting thought when you’re spending your days walking across Japan.

We continue to be fascinated by the craftsmanship and the care devoted to these centuries-old religious sites. Even the ordinary gardens along the way are remarkable, with trees meticulously pruned into shapes that seem to defy nature.

Between temples, we walked through quiet rural communities, crossed the broad Yoshino River and enjoyed another warm, sunny day. Perhaps a little too warm when carrying backpacks!

After 14.5 miles and more than eight hours on the trail, we finally arrived at our hostel, where we discovered we were the only guests.

The owner explained that the pilgrimage has two particularly popular seasons: spring, when the cherry blossoms bloom, and autumn, when many pilgrims begin with the goal of completing all 88 temples by Christmas. Quite an undertaking!

Our navigation app, GAIA, gave up after eight miles, but fortunately the Apple Watch persevered. Apparently, even our electronics are getting tired.

We are also engaged in an ongoing effort to lighten our backpacks. Unfortunately, this noble objective seems completely incompatible with visiting Japanese grocery stores. We enter determined to buy only necessities and emerge carrying considerably more than we intended.

Tonight’s gourmet backpacker’s dinner: tuna salad, cheesecake and beer.

Perhaps we haven’t quite mastered the Buddhist principle of letting go of worldly attachments. Especially when cheesecake is involved.

Tomorrow we tackle one of the pilgrimage’s most demanding mountain sections, appropriately nicknamed the “Pilgrim Tumbler.”

At least tonight’s cheesecake and beer won’t have to be carried uphill!Read more