Day 42 Shikoku Pilgrimage — Day 3

We woke to rain this morning, not exactly the ideal beginning for one of the most challenging sections of the Shikoku 88 Temple Pilgrimage. Today’s route would take us from Temple 11, Fujiidera, over the mountains to Temple 12, Shōsanji, along a trail appropriately nicknamed Henro Korogashi — the “Pilgrim Tumbler.” Very reassuring!

Fortunately, the rain stopped, the trails were surprisingly dry, and the sun eventually appeared. Best of all, we were finally off the paved roads and back on beautiful forest trails.

The route climbed steeply through dense forests, past enormous cedars, small stone shrines, and deeply sunken pathways that looked as though generations of pilgrims had worn them into the mountainside. It was easy to imagine travelers making this same journey centuries ago.

Despite the trail’s fearsome reputation, we found the hiking quite manageable. In fact, we started later than most of the other pilgrims but caught up with many of them near the top of the big climb. Perhaps all those miles hiking in Hokkaido and along the Michinoku Coastal Trail are paying off!

One of our favorite encounters was with two Japanese gentlemen in their 80s who were sweeping the trail with traditional twig brooms. They were wonderfully proud of their ages and promptly asked ours. With a little English, some gestures, and plenty of smiles, we enjoyed a delightful exchange. Encounters like this are part of what makes traveling in Japan so special.

We also spent considerable time talking with a young American from Georgia who is walking the entire pilgrimage. He has completed several shorter pilgrimages around the world and is carrying a tent, planning to camp about a third of the time. In February, he’ll begin teaching English in Korea. It’s fascinating meeting people of different ages and backgrounds, each following the same pilgrimage route for their own reasons.

Eventually we reached Shōsanji, Temple 12, surrounded by magnificent old cedar trees. The temple grounds were peaceful, and the setting made the long mountain approach especially rewarding.

By the time we finished, we’d covered 11 miles in eight hours, climbing a cumulative 4,194 feet. A very satisfying day!

Tonight we’re staying in a room in a local gentleman’s home. The accommodations are decidedly basic, and we’re sharing his bathroom, but at six o’clock he delivered an enormous tray of home-cooked Japanese food to our room. Rice, soup, tofu, vegetables, salad, several mystery dishes, and what appeared to be fried fish and a meat patty. More food than we expected, and certainly no danger of going hungry!

Three days into our pilgrimage, we’re discovering that the temples are only part of the experience. The mountain paths, the people we meet, the small acts of kindness, and the occasional culinary mystery are what make this journey so memorable.

Tomorrow, the pilgrimage continues. Hopefully with a little less climbing — although we’ve learned not to make assumptions about Shikoku!Read more