Day 49 - Miyajima

Mountains, Deer, and a Typhoon on the Horizon!

Our last full day in Hiroshima began with unfinished business at the post office. Mailing our absentee ballots turned into quite an adventure, involving three employees, the manager, and a trip to the head office to authorize a refund. But success! Both ballots are finally on their way to Virginia by airmail.

Then it was off by train and ferry to Miyajima, famous for its beautiful Itsukushima Shrine and the enormous red torii gate that appears to float in the sea at high tide.

Miyajima has been considered a sacred island for centuries. Itsukushima Shrine, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1996, has roots dating back to the 6th century, although much of its present design dates to the 12th century, when the powerful Taira no Kiyomori helped transform it into a magnificent shrine complex. Built on stilts over the tidal flats, the shrine appears to float when the tide comes in. Traditionally, the island itself was considered sacred, so the shrine was constructed over the water rather than directly on the land. The combination of Shinto shrines, Buddhist temples, forested mountains, and centuries-old traditions makes Miyajima an extraordinary place to explore.

We had a wonderful day exploring the island, including a challenging hike up Mount Misen. We took a different route down, passing the secluded Okunoin Buddhist temple and following a long forest road back toward town. Our GPS recorded 9.42 miles and nearly 2,000 feet of climbing, but with all our wandering, we probably covered more than 10 miles.

The mountain was beautiful, with enormous boulders, lush forest, ancient stone steps, and little shrines tucked among the trees. Unfortunately, rain and clouds obscured the views from the summit, but the hike was well worth it. And the deer! We encountered several, including a magnificent stag with impressive antlers.

Another highlight was meeting two groups of Japanese students who approached us with prepared questions, giving us a chance to chat and share a little cake. These spontaneous encounters are among our favorite experiences in Japan.

We also visited the Miyajima History and Folklore Museum, although we wished we’d had more time to explore it properly.

By the time we caught the ferry back, the clouds had cleared enough to produce a spectacular orange sunset over the water. A wonderful ending to the day! Dinner at Hiroshima Station was another treat, especially Cindy’s excellent fried oysters.

Meanwhile, we’re keeping a close eye on a typhoon heading north toward Japan. The forecast track puts it uncomfortably close to our upcoming Kumano Kodo pilgrimage. After so much good weather on this trip, perhaps our luck is being tested!

Tomorrow it’s on to Kyoto, where more adventures await.Read more