Day 50 - Kyoto introduction!

A Thousand Years of History and a Night

What a day! We left Hiroshima on the 8:22 a.m. Shinkansen and arrived in Kyoto just before 10, ready for not one but two of Japan’s great festivals. By the time we finally returned to our hotel at 11 p.m., we were exhausted, but what an experience!

Our first stop, on the way to the afternoon parade, was the magnificent Higashi Hongan-ji Buddhist temple, with its imposing traditional gate and extraordinary golden interior. The elaborate carvings, gilded columns, and beautifully decorated altar were breathtaking.

Founded in 1602, Higashi Hongan-ji is the headquarters of the Ōtani branch of Jōdo Shinshū Buddhism, one of Japan’s largest Buddhist traditions. Much of the present complex was rebuilt in the late 19th century following devastating fires. Its enormous wooden halls are among Kyoto’s most impressive religious buildings. A wonderful introduction to the city’s Buddhist and architectural heritage.

Next came Jidai Matsuri, the Festival of the Ages, one of Kyoto’s three great festivals. First held in 1895 to celebrate the 1,100th anniversary of Kyoto becoming Japan’s capital in 794, it is essentially a journey through more than a thousand years of Japanese history.

Around 2,000 participants parade through the streets wearing carefully recreated costumes from different historical periods, including samurai, nobles, warriors, and imperial courtiers. The procession moves backward through history, from the 19th century to the eighth century. The attention to detail is remarkable, from the clothing and hairstyles to the weapons and ceremonial equipment. It was wonderful to see Japanese history come alive in the streets, with local people proudly preserving their traditions.

After the parade, we returned to our hotel for a short rest before heading into the mountains north of Kyoto for the Kurama Fire Festival.

What a contrast!

The fire festival dates back to 940 AD, when the deity of Yuki Shrine was transferred from Kyoto to Kurama during a troubled period of earthquakes and unrest. According to tradition, the villagers welcomed the deity with burning torches and bonfires, a ritual that has been preserved for more than a thousand years.

Today, the narrow streets of Kurama fill with enormous flaming torches, some carried by groups of men, while children carry smaller ones. The flames, sparks, smoke, chanting, and traditional clothing create an extraordinary atmosphere. This is not simply a performance for tourists but a deeply rooted community celebration, passed down through generations.

We arrived before the festivities began, along with what seemed like half of Japan! The crowds were enormous, and the police had established a strictly controlled one-way walking route through the village. No turning around, no sitting, and no stopping to claim a viewing spot. At times, the combination of so many people, narrow streets, and large open flames seemed rather dangerous!

But the spectacle was unforgettable. Seeing those huge torches blazing against the darkness, surrounded by traditional houses and mountains, was unlike anything we had experienced.

Getting back to Kyoto was another adventure. Thousands of people were trying to leave the little mountain village, and the train journey was considerably more difficult than getting there. We finally made it back to our hotel around 11 p.m., after an exceptionally long day.

Was it worth the crowds and the exhausting return? Absolutely!

We have been fortunate to experience several wonderful Japanese festivals during this trip, and each has been completely different. What continues to impress us is how strongly local communities maintain their traditions and how much pride and energy goes into these celebrations.

From an elegant historical procession in the afternoon to a mountain village illuminated by fire at night, Kyoto gave us a day we won’t soon forget!Read more