Day 55 Kumano Kodo: 15 Miles to Hongu

Today is Bruce’s and Theo’s birthdays! Happy Birthday!

Today was a long but beautiful day on Japan’s ancient Kumano Kodo pilgrimage trail. We walked 15 miles, climbing approximately 2,450 feet and spending more than nine hours on the trail.

Much of the day took us through magnificent cedar forests, along rocky paths and across moss-covered stone bridges. With all the recent rain, the streams were rushing through the valleys, making the scenery especially beautiful. Sunshine filtering through the tall trees was a welcome change after the typhoon disruptions of the past few days.

As always in Japan, there were unexpected discoveries along the way. We passed neatly trimmed rows of tea bushes, spotted a tiny skink with an extraordinary electric-blue tail, and found a brilliant yellow mushroom growing among the moss.

We also came across a wonderfully eccentric roadside collection featuring a wooden figure and a tanuki, the mischievous raccoon dog of Japanese folklore.

One particularly amusing discovery was a vending machine selling Kumano Kodo souvenirs, including T-shirts celebrating the Dual Pilgrim program. This recognizes pilgrims who have completed qualifying routes on both the Kumano Kodo and Spain’s Camino de Santiago. Having already walked the Camino Francés, we particularly appreciated the connection. Only in Japan would you find a vending machine devoted to pilgrimage souvenirs!

Our destination was Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three great sacred shrines of the Kumano region and part of the UNESCO World Heritage pilgrimage network. For centuries, pilgrims, including Japanese emperors, have traveled these mountain paths seeking spiritual renewal.

By the time we arrived, daylight was fading. The enormous wooden torii gate and long staircase lined with white banners disappeared into the gathering darkness. It was an atmospheric ending to a demanding but rewarding day.

Fifteen miles, ancient forests, rushing streams, a blue-tailed skink, and another memorable day exploring Japan on foot.Read more