Day 56 - Kumano Kodo: The People Along the Way

Happy birthday Josie (4 today)!

After yesterday’s exhausting 15-mile hike, today’s walk from Hongu to Koguchi was considerably easier and much more relaxed. We had time to enjoy the scenery, explore a little, and meet some interesting people.

We began in Hongu, where we visited Oyunohara and its enormous torii gate, standing 112 feet tall and considered the largest torii in the world. It marks the original location of Kumano Hongu Taisha, one of the three great shrines of the Kumano pilgrimage.

From there, we headed into the mountains along the Kogumotori-goe trail. Towering cedar forests, hillsides covered in ferns, and spectacular views of mountain ridges stretching into the distance made for beautiful hiking.

One of the highlights was meeting an extraordinary 84-year-old Japanese gentleman wearing a traditional conical hat. He stopped to interview us in English, and we learned his remarkable story. At 81, he suffered a stroke and was unable to walk. He gradually recovered through walking and now spends time along the pilgrimage trail interviewing hikers, both to practice his English and to keep himself active. Three years after his stroke, here he was, walking, smiling, and enthusiastically chatting with strangers from around the world. What an inspiration!

We also met Duncan, a fellow hiker from Manchester, England, and enjoyed some conversation together against a magnificent mountain backdrop.

Another unexpected discovery was a small essential-oil distillery. We watched freshly cut branches being brought inside and learned how local cedar and kuromoji, an aromatic Japanese shrub, are processed using steam distillation. Much of the essential oil comes from the branches themselves. It was fascinating to see this small local operation tucked away in the mountains.

As we descended toward Koguchi, we passed through quiet rural settlements, with aging buildings, a rushing river, and steep forested mountains surrounding the village.

Today’s hike covered 13.3 miles with nearly 2,000 feet of climbing, taking almost nine hours including our leisurely stops. Despite the distance, it felt much easier than yesterday.

Adding our first day’s four miles and yesterday’s 15 miles, we’ve now walked approximately 32 miles over three days on the Kumano Kodo.

Tonight we’re staying at Kumoma Lodge, in a spacious, simple Japanese room with futons on the wooden floor and large windows overlooking the village. Dinner was a traditional bento with meat, rice, vegetables, noodles, and pickles.

Today was a reminder that a pilgrimage isn’t just about the miles walked or the destinations reached. Sometimes the most memorable parts are the unexpected conversations and discoveries along the way.

Tomorrow we tackle our final mountain crossing to Nachi!Read more