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- Day 181–182
- September 30, 2024 at 5:29 PM - October 1, 2024
- 1 night
- ☀️ 31 °C
- Altitude: 1,489 m
United StatesMountain Springs36°2’26” N 115°33’17” W
24. Inyo NationalForest-EsternSierra, CA

More trees 🥰🌲🌲🌲
That night, we fulfilled one of my dreams—sleeping in the Inyo National Forest, surrounded by the ancient bristlecone pines, some over 4,000 years old. I’ve always been fascinated by these trees, which Dr. Edmund P. Schulman studied to unlock the secrets of their long lifespans. He discovered the famous “Pine Alpha” in 1953, the first tree documented to be 4,000 years old, and Methuselah, the oldest living bristlecone in 1957. It’s ironic that these ancient survivors aren’t the tallest or most grandiose trees but rather the weather-beaten, twisted ones thriving in the harshest conditions.
Sleeping at 10,000 feet (3,000m) wasn’t our best idea—we didn’t sleep well—but waking up to the sunrise among these ancient dinasaurs was magical.
The next day was jam-packed with incredible sights. We started at Manzanar (Eastern Sierra), the WWII internment camp where Japanese immigrants and Japanese-American citizens were incarcerated. It’s a stark reminder of a dark chapter in U.S. history. Then, we visited the striking Alabama Hills, where Theo went biking while I explored the famous rock formations along Movie Road. The area’s surreal landscape has been a Hollywood favorite for nearly a century, featuring in films from Iron Man to Django Unchained.
In the evening we started our hike to
Mosaik Canyon, Death Valley, CA to avoid the heat (17:30). It was very impressive, see photos attached...more in the next chapter: Death Valley/NVRead more
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- Day 182–183
- October 1, 2024 at 9:53 AM - October 2, 2024
- 1 night
- ☀️ 29 °C
- Altitude: 1,489 m
United StatesMountain Springs36°2’26” N 115°33’17” W
25. Death Valley/CA to Las Vegas/NV

As we descended into Death Valley, the temperature soared, and the landscape shifted from pine forests to barren, volcanic rocks dotted with sagebrush and Joshua trees 🌴. We dropped from 10,000 feet to 200 feet below sea level! Death Valley, the largest national park in the contiguous U.S., is otherworldly. The U2 album cover makes more sense now!
We passed Rainbow Canyon, also known as Star Wars Canyon, where skilled pilots perform daring maneuvers, and visited Mosaic Canyon (picture in previous footprint), an awe-inspiring gallery of natural art. The canyon walls are like intricate murals of dolomite, transformed into marble over centuries. Next, we saw the iconic Mesquite Flat Sand Dunes, a stark reminder of the extreme dryness here—Death Valley holds the record for the highest air temperature at 134°F (1913) and went 24 years without a drop of rain between 1929 and 1953.
At Devil’s Cornfield, we spotted the strange arrowweed formations that earned this desert spot its name.
Finally, we reached Furnace Creek, where Borax, known as the "White Gold of the desert," was once mined for ceramics and gold extraction. The day ended with a hot, desert-temperature shower—surprisingly satisfying after all the dust and heat.
Sleeping in the van that night was tough—no air conditioning in Death Valley is no joke—but we survived. We woke early to catch the sunrise at Zabriskie Point, where the views are breathtaking and the rock formations are simply majestic. From there, we hiked the Badlands Loop at 5:30 a.m. to beat the heat, starting at Golden Canyon and passing through Gower Gulch. Other highlights included Devil’s Golf Course, a flat white field of Borax, and Badwater Basin, the lowest point in North America (282 feet below sea level), named after a donkey that refused to drink the salty water. We also explored the Natural Bridge and its dry waterfall and admired the vibrant colors of the Artist Palette mountains before ending at Dante’s View, 5,575 feet above the valley floor. The sweeping vistas here felt like a scene out of Star Wars.
Then came the best news of the day—I got approval for my visa extension! Unfortunately, Theo is still waiting for his, but we’re hopeful it’ll come soon.
We’re gearing up to Las Vegas, Nevada to pick up Max from the airport.Read more
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- Day 183–185
- October 2, 2024 at 12:59 PM - October 4, 2024
- 2 nights
- ☀️ 32 °C
- Altitude: 1,164 m
United StatesFort Independence Reservation36°45’7” N 118°9’46” W
26. Las Vegas/NV - Utah N.P. with Max

We kicked off our adventure with some delicious Filipino food before picking up Max at the Las Vegas airport. We spent the night at a Travelodge (Baymont) and started our next leg of fun with Max on board.
First, we got to work on our mountain bikes. Max helped us install tubeless tires—an essential upgrade around here, where cactus thorns are waiting to puncture everything! Afterward, we treated ourselves to avocado bacon burgers at "Ihop". Yum!
In Boulder City, we explored the Nevada State Railroad Museum. Turns out, the Hautzendorfers are quite the railway enthusiasts! It was cool to see an old United States Mail Post Office inside one of the train cars. Lunch break at "Shake Shack" for burgers again. Later, we made our way to Hoover Dam. It's mind-blowing to think that this marvel of engineering has provided water and electricity to the Southwest since the 1930s. At that time it was the largest dam in the world, now it is still the highest concrete dam in the US (height of a 60 story building). Hoover Dam and Lake Mead are world-renowned tourist attractions (>7mil/yr). Without Hoover Dam, cities like Los Angeles wouldn't have thrived, and the irrigated farmlands of the region—producing 80% of America’s winter fruits and veggies—wouldn’t be nearly as productive. The dam can produce some of the largest quantities of electricity in the US (~4 billion kWh/yr). So funny, just saw Hoover Dam in the series 'WestWord' that we are watching...finally being there live, feels so surreal.
We had a little hiccup when our steering bar bent, causing some tire wear issues, so we spent half a day at a repair shop in St. George. Poor Max, yet another sightseeing delay! But we made it up to him with burgers and flowless fries at "Red Robin". At least he’s getting the full American burger tour! We wrapped up the day with a short mountain bike ride, spotting a black-and-white snake (see pic!) and some mule deer...which seem like suicidal running once they see the lights of the cars...🫣🦌
The next two weeks are going to be a whirlwind marathon of national parks—Zion, Bryce Canyon, Grand Canyon, Staircase, Capital Reef, Arches, and Canyonlands. Can’t wait for the magic ahead!Read more
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- Day 186–187
- October 5, 2024 at 2:48 PM - October 6, 2024
- 1 night
- ☀️ 39 °C
- Altitude: 625 m
United StatesLogan Township36°41’25” N 114°30’17” W
27. Zion&GrandCanyon NP(North Rim)/ UT

Zion National Park
We kicked things off at Zion with a “wet” hike through "The Narrows". An early 5:30 a.m. start got us ahead of the crowds waiting for the first shuttle at 7 a.m. We waded through chilly water, sometimes as deep as our waists, but it was an awesome experience, and the cool water kept us refreshed. By noon, we were basking in the sun with a nice snack break. On the way back, we confidently scrambled over rocks while others in their rented gear looked a bit shaky and clumpsy —some tourists even braved the cold water for a swim. Brr!
The "Wall Street" section of the canyon was stunning—it reminded me a bit of Petra in Jordan, but with water running through it. Later, we hiked up "South Ariel Peak" for sunset. The climb up was easy, but coming down on the sandstone felt a bit like sledding—fun, but a little nerve-wracking!
We ended the day with homemade rösti, veggies, and fish before driving three hours to our campsite near the North Rim of the Grand Canyon. The night was so cold that I was already missing the desert heat!
Grand Canyon National Park (North Rim)
The next morning, we took on the Widforss Trail, enjoying gorgeous views. The North Rim felt closer and greener, thanks to the extra snowfall it gets compared to the South Rim. One highlight was Angel's Window, a rock formation that frames a perfect view of the Colorado River below. The iconic rock formations here, like Krishna Shrine and Vishnu Temple, were formed as side canyons eroded into peninsula-like projections, eventually becoming islands like Wotan's Throne.
It was a much quieter experience than the South Rim, with fewer tourists. While the North Rim was beautiful and serene, I still prefer the grand feeling of the South Rim. Either way, the Grand Canyon’s grandeur never fails to amaze, and I’m grateful to Theodore Roosevelt for turning it into a national park for everyone to enjoy.
We spent another chilly but magical night under the stars.Read more
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- Day 188
- Monday, October 7, 2024 at 4:19 PM
- ☀️ 30 °C
- Altitude: 1,442 m
United StatesCowboy Butte36°58’35” N 112°31’42” W
28. RedCanyon & Bryce Canyon NP - UT, ..

3. Red Canyon - Dixie National Forest
A place of diversity, straddles the divide between the Great Basin and the Colorado River in southern Utah. Scenery ranges from desert canyon gorges of amber, rose, ans Sienna to high mountain forests, plateaus, and alpine lakes. Red Canyon stunning red rock walls tell stories from over 600 million years ago. The brilliant Claron Limestone that forms the famous hoodoos—rock formations that resemble statues—was deposited in a freshwater lake, unlike the salty bodies of water from other regions. Over time, erosion sculpted these fascinating rock towers.
*Excursion: Hoodoo formation
Hoodoos don't grow like trees but are eroded out of the cliffs where rows of narrow walls (fins) form. Frost-wedgimg enlarges cracks in the fins, creating holes or windows. As windows grow, their tops eventually collapse, leaving a column. Rain further dissolves and sculpts these limestone pillars into bulbous spires called hoodoos. The delicate climate balance between snow and rain ensures the new hoodoos will emerge whole others become reduced to lumps of clay.
4. Bryce Canyon National Park
Bryce Canyon's serene vistas are deceptive; the landscape is never static. In the early morning at the rim you can experience the chilly dawn, crystalline blue sky, and rock ablaze with the ruddy light of sunrise. Later the perspective dramatically recomposes the scene below. The sun arching across the sky casts a kaleidoscope of slowly altered hieß and shifting shadows over the land. Every two hours you peel off layers of clothing like an onion as the air rapidly warms. Thin air can leave you short of breath. The high elevation that causes these effects and creates the climate that weathers the cliffs and bulbous columns called hoodoos. After sunset the chill returns, listen through this advancing twilight for the faint clatter or murmur of stones tumbling in the distance. At Bryce Canyon the forces of weathering and erosion never rest, not even for a day. This dynamic mesmerising place is like no other.
Bryce Canyon is part of the Colorado Plateau, a geological “layer cake” of sedimentary rocks that have been uplifted over millions of years. We hiked the Navajo Loop Trail, descending into the narrow paths of Wall Street before connecting with the Peekaboo and Queen’s Garden trail to make our loop longer and more exciting .The landscape is surreal, with arches formed by frost, weathering, and gravity.
I was particularly struck by the bristlecone pine trees—these hardy survivors seem to live off air and love, clinging to life in this sandy, dry environment. Bryce Canyon is simply incredible and priceless. It is poetry in stone.
5. Kodachrome Basin State Park
We arrived at Kodachrome Basin in the evening and enjoyed a quick but memorable glimpse of the stunning rock formations that have made this park famous.Read more
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- Day 189
- Tuesday, October 8, 2024 at 10:01 AM
- ☁️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 1,748 m
United StatesCity of Escalante37°43’27” N 111°31’38” W
29.Grand StaircaseNM, CapitalReefNP - UT

6. Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument
Steps through time
Layers in rock are like the chapters in a huge history book that describe how Earth developed, where can you read the only unabridged edition of the planet's history.
The Grand Staircase is the world's most complete sequence of colourful sedimentary rocks - formed over vast timespans as sediments built up in lakes, inland seas, swamps, deserts, and forests.
This series of sedimentary rock layers stretchs south for 100 miles (161 km) from Bryce Canyon NP through Zion NP and into the Grand Canyon.
The rock layers have been uplifted, tilted, and eroded, forming a feature called the Grand Staircase. The bottom layer of rock at Bryce Canyon is the top at Zion, and the bottom layer of Zion is the top layer at the Grand Canyon. This rock record recounts a history of 525 million years.
Elsewhere on Earth the geological sequences have been interrupted by uplift of mountain ranges or carving and scouring action by glaciers. In the Grand Staircase, however, very few gaps mark the sequence. Most chapters and even pages of this book are still intact.
We kicked things off with the Lower Calf Creek Falls Trail, a 6-mile roundtrip trek that felt like walking on the beach, thanks to the endless stretches of soft sand. We even took off our shoes to enjoy the sensation beneath our feet! By the time we reached the stunning waterfall, the heat had us craving a refreshing dip, but the crowd and the brisk wind kept me from diving in. Despite this, the sight of the falls was worth it—a lush oasis tucked within the canyon walls.
7. Capitol Reef National Park
Next up was Capitol Reef, where we stood in awe overlooking the Gooseneck of the Fremont River. The winding canyon seemed like nature’s way of showcasing its artistic touch. Sulfur Creek Canyon, carved deep into the landscape, highlighted layers of history, including the Kaibab Limestone, which can also be found at both Grand Canyon and Zion National Parks. This particular rock layer, the youngest at the Grand Canyon's North Rim, formed millions of years ago due to tectonic shifts, faulting, and eventual uplift and erosion. This is what we learnt from the Rangers there.
After soaking in the geological wonders, we explored the historical Fruita area, where orchards from early settlers still thrive. I couldn't resist climbing an apple tree and savoring the freshest, crunchiest apple I’ve ever had!
Our hikes here were just as sweet:
The Cohab Canyon Trail offered a unique, winding path through hidden canyons once used by polygamist Mormon settlers seeking refuge. The trail rewarded us with stunning views of the Fremont River and Fruita Valley.
The Hickman Bridge Trail was a favorite for its impressive 133-foot natural rock bridge. As we stood beneath this massive archway, it was amazing to think of the erosion forces that slowly sculpted it over millions of years.
We wrapped up the day with a soothing soak in the Fremont River, followed by a delicious dinner of Udon soup with zucchini and a perfectly half-boiled egg. Sometimes, life’s simplest pleasures are the best!Read more
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- Day 190–191
- October 9, 2024 at 6:34 AM - October 10, 2024
- 1 night
- ☁️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 1,588 m
United StatesDeep Creek38°17’15” N 111°9’27” W
30. Arches NP - UT

8. Arches National Park
To beat the crowds, we woke up at 6 a.m. and entered Arches National Park, that's the only way without needing a reservation. The Delicate Arch Trail was steep but worth every step, rewarding us with a breathtaking view. The Devil’s Garden Trail was equally impressive, with towering rock walls, fins, and arches. My favorite was the Sand Dune Arch Trail, where I kicked off my shoes and walked barefoot through cool, soft sand to find a hidden arch nestled between sandstone walls. So peaceful!
We also visited Balanced Rock and, of course, took some fun photos there. After a full day of adventure, we treated ourselves to a relaxing bath in the Colorado River.Read more
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- Day 191–194
- October 10, 2024 at 6:03 AM - October 13, 2024
- 3 nights
- 🌙 5 °C
- Altitude: 2,510 m
United StatesTown of Bryce Canyon City37°43’2” N 112°18’31” W
31. Canyonlands NP, Moab - UT

9. Canyonlands National Park
Canyonlands is Utah’s largest national park and is divided into four diverse districts, separated by the Colorado and Green Rivers. The park’s vastness feels like an endless canvas, offering breathtaking vistas and a deep connection to nature. The most visited area, Islands in the Sky, is closest to Moab and sits atop a towering mesa, offering panoramic views. The Needles district, with its colorful spires and more remote trails, makes for excellent day hikes and backcountry exploration. The Maze is the wildest, least accessible district—only for those with a high-clearance 4WD and plenty of time, which we unfortunately didn’t have!
We spent our time exploring Syncline Loop Trail, a challenging 5-hour scramble that led us through valleys and ridges. The natural wonder of Mesa Arch, with its iconic sunrise views, was a highlight, as the early morning light painted the landscape in glowing oranges and reds. Another favorite was hiking through The Joint slot canyon on the Chesler Park Trail, which provided much-needed shade from the desert heat and stunning views of The Needles and the surrounding landscapes.
We also made a stop at Newspaper Rock, a petroglyph-covered sandstone panel that tells the story of over 2,000 years of early human history. From ancient B.C. carvings to more modern A.D. etchings, it was like a time capsule etched into the rock. To cool off, the mighty Colorado River became our personal bathtub again—refreshing and perfect after a long day of hiking!
10. Moab
Moab, the adventure capital of Utah, was next on the agenda, and Theo couldn’t resist tackling the famous Whole Enchilada mountain bike trail. This 30 km (2300m descent!) ride takes you from the high alpine forest, through rocky landscapes, and down into the dramatic slickrock formations of the Colorado Canyon. He had a blast bombing down the trail, taking in the stunning views along the way.
Meanwhile, Max and I took a more relaxed approach, scrambling around the Morning Glory Trail to discover natural arches and ending our morning with a refreshing dip in the Colorado River, surrounded by a stunning alpenglow that lit up the landscape. It was the perfect way to recharge.
The next day, we all hit some of Moab's famous mountain bike trails, navigating slick rock and red sand simultaneously, with jaw-dropping views of Arches National Park as our backdrop. Afterward, we cooled off in the Colorado River again, followed by a well-deserved cold Colorado beer and fantastic burgers at Milt's Stop & Eat. The night ended under the stars at a quiet Bureau of Land Management (BLM) campsite, with the half-moon lighting up the desert sky.Read more
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- Day 195–198
- October 14, 2024 at 6:12 AM - October 17, 2024
- 3 nights
- ☁️ 10 °C
- Altitude: 1,896 m
United StatesBear Gulch38°54’5” N 111°38’37” W
32. StGeorge/UT-LasVegas/NV-Flagstaff/AZ

October 14th, Columbus Day, and luckily for us, the car repair shop in St. George was open. We had a few things to fix: an oil change, a new filter, and guess what? Pissaway is back! Our trusty Pleasure Way motorhome earned its nickname from a persistent drainage leak that just loves making a comeback.
Before hitting the bright lights of Vegas, we squeezed in one last wild lunch break. I whipped up a simple but delicious meal: rice with zucchini, radish greens sautéed with ginger, eggs and tomatoes, all topped with crispy fried onions and crushed peanuts. A sprinkle of lime, chili, pepper, and a dash of soy sauce transformed it into my own take on Phat Thai. So simple, yet so good! We enjoyed it sitting for the last time in our camping chairs, surrounded by wilderness.
Oh, and then the mountain bike tire drama! After shredding Moab’s trails, the knobs on my back tire were completely gone – peeled off! Check out the pic, it’s insane, right? Had to replace that along with the disc brake and suspension fluid. Theo also needed a new shock absorber. The bike's battle scars are real! A chunk of money, but worth it.
It was our last night with Max, so we threw ourselves into the madness of Las Vegas. We treated ourselves to an incredible 4D show at the Sphere – pricey but so worth it. And, of course, we grabbed some epic fast food like burgers at "In 'n' out" and "White Castle" and and soaked up everything Vegas had to offer. Vegas, baby! We also made a stop at my all-time favorite Chinese spot, Magic Noodles. 🍜Those hand-pulled noodles and spicy wontons? Absolute heaven! Best Chinese in Vegas – hands down!
It’s bittersweet, though – Max is heading back to Austria, and I’m really going to miss him. We’ve had such a blast together.
But as one adventure ends, another begins. We met up with Andre and Laura for a delicious lunch at King’s Fish House, as they were visiting Laura’s parents. It was the perfect excuse to stay another night in a motel – though honestly, I much prefer being out in nature, bathing in the Colorado River for free, instead of dealing with cold air conditioning and cockroaches in the bathroom.
Now we’re heading east toward Flagstaff, taking a detour because of the bad weather. Snow is predicted in two days, but we’re ready – we just bought snow chains! Back on the desert highway, the wind is fierce, shaking our motorhome, but the view makes it worth it. The sky is ablaze 🔥 with Alpenglow clouds on one side, and on the other, a brilliant full moon. Solar panels stretch endlessly along the highway – it’s how the city gets all its power. No gardens in sight unless you’re super rich.
It feels like summer is officially over. The days are growing shorter, and it’s already dark by 6:30 p.m. We’ve still got about 4.5 hours of driving ahead to Flagstaff, Arizona. Another hotel night for us, and this one should be much better than Vegas – snow is forecast for the next two days. It’s wild to think that in the span of one night, we’ll go from the heat of Las Vegas to the winter chill of Arizona.Read more
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- Day 204
- Wednesday, October 23, 2024 at 2:39 PM
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: 1,989 m
United StatesUniversity of New Mexico-Gallup Campus Zollinger Library35°31’42” N 108°44’38” W
33. New Mexico, USA I

New Mexico - Land of Enchantment I
From Flagstaff, AZ, to Gallup, Mentmore
Our adventure kicked off en route to Flagstaff, where we’d hoped to see the famed Meteor Crater. But the weather had other plans, cloaking the area in clouds so thick we decided to keep rolling—no worries, the sky put on a show of its own! That massive, 50,000-year-old crater, one of Earth’s best-preserved impact sites, will stay on the bucket list for now. Once in Flagstaff, we took two peaceful days to unwind with yoga sessions and café hopping—a much-needed breather after our National Park marathon!
When the skies finally cleared, we journeyed east toward Winslow, ready for water solo climbing. But as luck would have it, chilly rains followed us there, pushing that plan onto the “next time” list too. Fortunately, the sun returned just in time for us to climb Jack's Canyon, surrounded by the rugged beauty of Coconino National Forest. We rounded off the day with laps at an indoor pool, savoring the luxury of a hot shower—no cold welcome for winter just yet!
Crossing into the high desert, we welcomed the warmth (a cozy 25°C by day), although nights dropped below freezing. In Petrified Forest National Park, we wandered among the Rainbow Forest’s ancient trees, petrified and painted by mineral deposits over a mind-boggling 210 million years. These trees, once buried in river sediments, slowly fossilized into colorful crystals through an intricate process involving mineral-rich groundwater—nature’s alchemy at its best!
Entering the Land of Enchantment
The beauty of the red sunsets over the Sangre de Christo Mountains of New Mexico, earned this state the nickname: “The Land of Enchantment”.
New Mexico is also known as Chile Capital of the World. Entering the land of Enchantment, it greeted us with its famous red-rock terrain, steeped in the legacy of the first Americans, the Indigenous tribes. Our morning began with mountain biking on the High Desert Trail System in Mentmore, flowing over ridges and valleys. At midday, we tackled canyon climbs, feeling the thrill of exposed aretes and shaky hands (no thanks to a climbing break that’s lasted far too long!). As the day drew to a close, we hiked up the Pyramid Rock Trail, where juniper trees and hoodoos created a surreal landscape against the evening light. The views stretched across Church Rock, basking in its majestic red-rock glow.
Continuing along historic Route 66, we soaked in a landscape reminiscent of a Monet painting with vibrant hues stretched across the horizon. That night, a steaming bowl of Udon vegetable soup with poached eggs and ginger warmed us up—pure soul food!Read more
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- Day 207
- Saturday, October 26, 2024 at 12:52 PM
- ☁️ 21 °C
- Altitude: 2,143 m
United StatesThe Santa Fe Plaza National Historic Landmark35°41’15” N 105°56’18” W
34. New Mexico, USA II

New Mexico - Land of Enchantment II
From Mentmore to Los Alamos, Santa Fe, Albuquerque, Truth or Consequences, Silver City
As Halloween decorations appeared everywhere, it became clear that New Mexico embraces the season in style! In Los Alamos and Bandelier National Monument, we wandered through history. The Tsankawi Loop led us along cliffside paths to ancient dwellings, with volcanic terrain shaped over millennia. The Jemez Mountains’ caldera and the Valle Grande reveal nature’s handiwork—ancient eruptions and erosion that breathe history into the landscape. Streams like Frijoles Creek slowly carved canyons into the ash, yielding obsidian that the Anasazi shaped into arrowheads.
We visited Pecos Pueblo, a reminder of ancestral homes. Los Alamos also holds a significant place in modern history as the birthplace of the atomic bomb. Here on July 16, 1945, scientists conducted the first nuclear weapons test, changing WWII’s course.
Before heading to Santa Fe, we faced some “bumps” of our own: a spilled spice rack and a broken headlight (it “gave up the ghost,” as the German saying goes). Theo tackled epic bike trails around the Jemez Mountains, and we squeezed in a short but exhilarating sport climb.
Santa Fe, one of the oldest cities in the U.S., charmed us with its adobe buildings, art, and tantalizing food. Its reputation as the “chili capital” holds true, with spice in every dish. We savored traditional Mexican cuisine and doubled up on bike locks; the lively streets had an edgy vibe with many wanderers around. Santa Fe’s architecture—a blend of Spanish influence—gives it an earthy, unique feel, making it like no other.
In Diablo Canyon, we climbed beautiful basalt cliffs, encountering a large tarantula but luckily avoiding rattlesnakes. Just a week ago, snow dusted the area, but now the rocks glowed under clear skies. Later, we rode the “Bobsled” mountain bike trail in Placitas, where the curving downhill path was pure fun. To top off our “fast food tour,” we tried Five Guys, complete with a pack of peanuts. Thanks, Santa Claus!
In Albuquerque, a brewing sandstorm prompted us to prep our Pissaway with a thorough inside-out clean, a Trader Joe’s haul, and a restock of provisions. My basket brimmed with Halloween treats: pumpkin pesto, pumpkin chocolate, dark chocolate almonds, gnocchi, couscous, miso paste, and the best organic macadamia-almond-cashew milk. Trader Joe’s is an occasional splurge—a treasure trove of international foods and spices. Funny enough, Trader Joe’s is actually part of Aldi Nord from Germany, where it’s known as a discount store! I also picked up some colorful T-shirts and new climbing shoes at a consignment store. As the sandstorm swept in, we spent a cozy night in a motel, enjoying hot showers, a real bed, and a breakfast of waffles and pancakes—pure comfort. We also hit a laundromat, cleaned our bedding, and did some yoga, preparing for the coming cold.
We spent three days climbing in Socorro, where Box Canyon offers a variety of routes on rough, sandpaper-like rock that peeled the skin off my hands. Theo tackled a solid 5.10c/d, without realizing its grade—a pleasant surprise and testament to his skills. The area was buzzing with college students competing, adding a fun atmosphere. I spotted a stunning Granite Spiny lizard with golden scales, like Cleopatra’s armor. 🦎
In Truth or Consequences, a town with a quirky name change from “Hot Springs” after a radio show contest, we explored more of New Mexico’s wilderness. The town itself has little more than desert, hot springs, a Walmart, and great climbing spots. We stayed at Luna Park Campground in the Cibola National Forest, tackling climbs at Mud Mountain while dodging tarantulas. With frosty nights, we even took refuge in a hospital cafeteria for hot chocolate and cone cookies. November brought frosty window art and Thanksgiving preps. Theo’s “Movember” haircut was a success!
One unforgettable experience was at the Indian Hot Springs—pure balm for the soul, melting away the aches from daily climbing and preparing us for the cold. We spent sunlit days at various climbing spots, including the Bat Cave with views over the Rio Grande. Reaching it involved quite the adventure: a bumpy car ride, an hour of mountain biking over rocks, and some thorn bush-whacking. But the canyon and its cacti were worth it. Unfortunately Rio Grande is not that grande as we always find it dried out, so no bath option for us. Therefore more hot springs and swimming pools.Read more
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- Day 222
- Sunday, November 10, 2024 at 9:19 PM
- 🌙 8 °C
- Altitude: 1,187 m
United StatesPreciado Park32°18’51” N 106°46’47” W
35. New Mexico, USA III

New Mexico - Land of Enchantment III
From Silver City to Las Cruces
We reached Las Cruces with freezing nights but hot days. The Organ Mountains-Desert Peaks National Monument is a special playground for outdoor lovers. The mix of high peaks and desert landscapes make it ideal for winter months. We enjoyed some thrilling climbs and discovered single-track mountain biking trails. Afterward, a burger with fries at Blake’s Lotaburger was a treat, but I still rank Five Guys and Red Robin as top contenders!
For showers, we visited a public pool where we swam a few laps and enjoyed hot showers. Boondocking with an RV in the U.S. is much easier compared to Europe, where almost everything, even a glass of water, comes at a price.
A long-awaited adventure took us up the Organ Needles, New Mexico’s highest peak at 2,708m. The hike was a grueling 6 hours with 1,200m of elevation, sharp bushes, cacti, loose rocks, and even a bit of ice and snow at the summit to be reached with a fixed rope. Theo took a wrong turn near the top, and I was ready to rest. Nevertheless I braced myself and finished the hike. Fortunately, the sunny views from the peak made the trek worthwhile.
The Las Cruces Regional Sports and Aquatic Center became our recharge spot. We swam, did yoga, and joined Pilates classes for an incredibly cheap price—not possible back home! The fitness sessions worked out all the sore muscles, and I left feeling reenergized for the journey ahead.
Recharging one night at Days Inn before heading to White Sands.Read more
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- Day 228–231
- November 16, 2024 at 6:35 AM - November 19, 2024
- 3 nights
- 🌙 9 °C
- Altitude: 1,189 m
United StatesBurn Lake32°17’32” N 106°47’11” W
36. New Mexico, USA IV

36. New Mexico - Land of Enchantment IV
From Las Cruces to White Sands, Queen, and Carlsbad
In White Sands, we started our day at 6 a.m., greeted by a stunning morning sky. We tackled the Alkali Flat Trail, which, despite its name, is anything but flat. As the sun warmed the soft gypsum sand, walking uphill became a challenge. This trail is less about the destination and more about the journey, leading us across the heart of the shimmering dunefield. Once the site of a vast ancient lake, Alkali Flat now spans nine miles from the mountain base to the dune edge. The landscape was mesmerizing—pure white sand shaped into intricate patterns by the wind.
Our next stop was Lincoln National Forest, where we attempted some sport climbing in a rugged canyon. The routes were technically challenging, and we managed to complete only one. Adding to the difficulty were the icy winds, cold enough to numb our fingers and toes, with patches of lingering snow reminding us of winter's grip. Undeterred, Theo made the most of the conditions, squeezing in some mountain biking while I enjoyed a bit of peaceful me-time.
Until now, we hadn’t had any encounters with the road police, so we thought they didn’t exist. That was until we hit New Mexico. Unfortunately, we had our first run-in with the New Mexican police when Theo was driving a bit too fast and crossed over the dividing line while overtaking a Harley. Sometimes, his impatience drives me a little crazy. He was in a hurry, likely fueled by too much adrenaline, eager to reach the swimming pool half an hour away and make the most of his time with a quick swim and a shower. While I could understand his rush, I couldn’t help but think he could benefit from learning a few limits. In the end, it turned out to be an expensive evening for us.
Moving on, we explored the climbing crag at Queen, known for its dramatic limestone cliffs and diverse routes. While not as daunting as Lincoln’s canyon, the climbs here offered exciting challenges and spectacular views of the surrounding desert. Unfortunately it was quite cold and extremely windy. The crisp air and solitude made it a special stop.
From Queen, we headed to Carlsbad Caverns National Park, renowned for its extraordinary subterranean landscapes. The highlight, the Big Room, is the largest single cave chamber by volume in North America. Standing inside this colossal space, we felt dwarfed by the towering stalactites, delicate formations, and sheer scale of the underground world. All this happened 300 million years ago (Permian Period), this was a time before humans, before mammals, before dinosaurs. It was a stark contrast to the blindingly bright dunes of White Sands—New Mexico’s diversity never ceases to amaze.Read more
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- Day 232–241
- November 20, 2024 at 12:05 PM - November 29, 2024
- 9 nights
- ☀️ 11 °C
- Altitude: 1,039 m
United States05054 Water Well32°50’30” N 104°25’13” W
37. Texas - Lonestar State I

37. Texas - Lonestar State I
From New Mexico to Texas - Guadalupe Mountains NP Texas, El Paso, Big Bend, Chihuahua desert, Rio Grande, border of Mexico, Bentsen Rio Grande State Park
From the sprawling deserts of New Mexico, we crossed into Texas, the Lone Star State. Nicknamed for its brief history as an independent republic. It has been a slave state for long time. Texas is a land of contrasts: legendary cowboy culture, large vibrant cities, Tex-Mex feasts, and the iconic hospitality of the South. With its vast landscapes and rich history, it’s a place where oil rigs and rodeos coexist, and where cattle ranches share space with cutting-edge technology hubs.
Guadalupe Mountains National Park
After wrapping up a visit to Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico, we arrived in Texas just in time for lunch. Our first stop was Guadalupe Mountains National Park, home to the state’s highest peak, Guadalupe Peak (2,700m). The 4-hour hike up and back was challenging, especially with patches of ice and snow on the trail, but the breathtaking views at the summit made it worthwhile. We snapped photos, snacked on crackers, muffins, and beef jerky, and hurried down before darkness fell—sunsets come early this time of year.
Hueco Tanks State Park
Next, we headed to Hueco Tanks State Park, a boulderer’s paradise and a site of rich history. The “huecos” (natural rock basins) collect rainwater, providing a lifeline for desert wildlife and humans alike. Ancient pictographs etched into the granite-like walls tell stories of the past. The rocks, still damp from recent rains, had just reopened for climbing. We met a lively group of Mexican travelers—Bruno, George, Priscilla, and Alejandra. We spent an amazing day scrambling over boulders and bouldering together—the more crash pads, the merrier! Bruno was super cool and absolutely incredible—he effortlessly climbed grades as tough as V13, which is mind-blowing. To be fair, both he and his sister are pros in the field—they own a bouldering gym back in Mexico. The evening ended with a shared dinner at the campsite, under the clear Texan sky, before we set off for El Paso.
El Paso Adventures
In El Paso, we explored Franklin Mountains State Park. The Cow Tech MTB trail challenged us with its rocky, cactus-filled terrain, while the hike up South Franklin Peak offered sweeping views of McKelligon Canyon. The strenuous Ron Coleman trail, with its iconic 40-foot “Window” wall, demanded some all-fours climbing but rewarded us with spectacular vistas. Theo celebrated the day with authentic Texan ribs and baked potatoes—just what he envisioned for a Texan experience. "Big people and cheap gas—this is exactly what he imagined the U.S. to be like. Texas truly has it all."
We squeezed in more biking and climbing at Thunderbird before grabbing a quick bite at Whataburger and heading to Big Bend National Park, a six-hour drive.
Big Bend and the Chihuahua Desert
“El Despoblado,” or “the uninhabited place,” is a term often used to describe the Chihuahua Desert, but Big Bend proves it to be anything but empty. Its rugged beauty inspired 19th-century French traveler Jules Leclerc, who called it “a landscape of strangeness and supreme melancholy.”
We explored trails like the Closed Canyon and the Hoodoos, which border Mexico. The Santa Elena Canyon Trail offered a scenic scramble, ending with a stunning overlook where the cliffs meet the Rio Grande.
The Chimneys Trail took us past volcanic dike formations adorned with ancient pictographs and petroglyphs. Theo tackled the IMBA MTB Epic trail, a grueling 90-kilometer route through the vast desert with great view on the dramatic Flatirons of the Solitario.
The Chihuahua Desert, spanning 200,000 square miles, is the largest and hottest in North America. Despite its harshness, life thrives here. Cacti, limestone formations, and hardy creatures like roadrunners, coyotes, and javelinas (wild boars) defy the odds in this arid environment.
A Few Odd Encounters
At the Amistad National Recreation Area, we enjoyed biking, climbing, and spotting wildlife. A visit to a laundromat, whimsically named “Whishy Whasy,” brought us face-to-face with a quirky Mexican man. He regaled us with tales of his pest control business (a lucrative $1,000 for two hours of work!) and his brother’s ranch where hallucinogenic peyote grows. His vivid, if unsettling, stories included a jail stint after a tequila-fueled bar fight where he stepped a man with a fork.
Culinary Highlights
We treated ourselves to juicy chicken drumsticks from Church’s Texas Chicken, paired with their famous honey-butter biscuits—sweet, flaky, and unforgettable.
Endless Summer in Texas
As November drew to a close, Texas gifted us with 80°F (25°C) sunshine, a reminder of its endless summer. Whether scaling peaks, navigating desert trails, or sharing laughs over Tex-Mex meals, this Lone Star chapter of our journey has been unforgettable.Read more
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- Day 238–241
- November 26, 2024 at 5:39 PM - November 29, 2024
- 3 nights
- ☁️ 19 °C
- Altitude: 219 m
United StatesAirport Addition Colonia28°53’4” N 100°34’17” W
38. Texas - Lonestar State II

38. Texas - Lonestar State II
Texas - beach time in South Padre Island/Mustang Island, Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge, Aransas National Wildlife Refuge, Galveston Island States Park wetlands, Houston, San Antonio, Austin.
Beach Time in South Padre Island and Beyond
Our journey took us further south toward the ocean, marking the southernmost point of our road trip. Since Albuquerque, we’ve been tracing the Rio Grande—first through New Mexico and now it winds along the Texas-Mexico border.
Upon reaching South Padre Island, the weather turned gloomy—cloudy skies and strong winds meant no swimming, just a brisk walk along the beach. Despite the gray day, I was thrilled to rediscover wildlife after what felt like an eternity without sightings.
At Laguna Atascosa National Wildlife Refuge, we found an ecological gem. This area blends influences from the Great Plains, tropics, Gulf Coast, and desert, creating one of the most biologically diverse regions in North America. It far exceeded our experience at Bentsen Rio Grande Valley State Park, where, apart from a few chirping birds (Northern Cardinal, American Goldfinch, green Jay), we saw little wildlife (though we missed a bobcat sighting by mere minutes—bummer!). Laguna Atascosa, however, delivered: we spotted javelinas (collared peccary), green jays, skunks, nilgai antelope, white-tailed deer, and my personal highlight—armadillos! These fascinating creatures, remnants of an ancient armored mammal group, look like a mix of kangaroo, anteater, and mouse in knight’s armor. Meanwhile, Theo was captivated by an American alligator lounging in the swamp.
We spent the night at Padre Island National Seashore, which protects the world’s longest stretch of undeveloped barrier island. During the night, the howls of coyotes serenaded us under the starry sky.
Mustang Island was next on our itinerary. Theo braved a swim despite the red and purple flags warning of jellyfish, but I was content with my mini wildlife encounter in the campground showers—four tiny green frogs hopping around kept me entertained!
At Port Aransas, the wildlife encounters continued: pelicans, roseate spoonbills, herons, egrets, turkey vultures, white ibises, ducks, dolphins, an American alligator, and even a lone flamingo, likely separated from its flock after a hurricane. We may have glimpsed a whooping crane—the tallest bird in North America and critically endangered, with only about 250 remaining. These majestic cranes winter in Texas and summer in Northwest Canada, standing over five feet tall—almost my height!
Goose Island State Park offered a serene escape with thousand-year-old oak trees, eastern cottontail rabbits, and white-tailed deer.
At the Aransas National Wildlife Refuge, the Heron Flats trail provided yet another close encounter with an American alligator, just three meters away in the marsh. While it appeared lifeless, we knew better than to trust its stillness—alligators are deceptively quick. The Texas Coastal Bend region’s mix of freshwater and saltwater habitats creates rich estuaries and marshes, which in turn nourish abundant bird and wildlife populations.
Galveston Island State Park marked the end of our coastal adventures. After another long safari walk through wetlands, we treated ourselves to a restful afternoon bouldering indoors—a perfect blend of movement and relaxation.
The Texas Gulf Coast has been a treasure trove of wildlife, diverse landscapes, and memorable experiences. It's incredible to think about the abundance of life thriving here in such a delicate balance between land, water, and sky.Read more
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- Day 245–258
- December 3, 2024 at 6:00 AM - December 16, 2024
- 13 nights
- ☁️ 9 °C
- Altitude: 8 m
United StatesClear Creek Crossing29°30’7” N 95°6’58” W
39. Texas - Lonestar State III

39. Texas - Lone Star State III
From the wetlands to Houston, San Antonio, and Austin, our journey through Texas continued with unpredictable weather, bold flavors, and unexpected reunions.
Houston: A Rainy Welcome
Houston marked the easternmost point of our road trip, greeting us with relentless rain. We adapted quickly, indulging in yoga sessions, cozy cafés, and Texas’s eclectic culinary scene.
Theo was eager to try local flavors at BB's, where a pot of New Orleans-style shrimp arrived steeped in a fiery broth with potatoes, sausage, and beans. The seasoning was... intense—like someone accidentally emptied the entire spice rack into the pot. After that Tex-Mex misadventure, we switched back to Asian cuisine.
At "Bà Ký," I had my first "Bún Sương Bà Ký"—dew noodles with lobster and shrimp balls, paired with a bounty of fresh herbs: finely shredded banana leaves, Tong Ho (chrysanthemum greens), Chinese leek, Thai basil, bean sprouts, lime, peanuts, and crispy fried onions. The flavors danced on my tongue—bright, fresh, and utterly invigorating. Theo savored garlic noodles with crawfish, another flavorful hit. I wished we’d explored even more—sugarcane juice, sticky rice with coconut and mango, or bean drinks with jelly grass would’ve been perfect.
A Dream and a Memory
One morning, I woke from a vivid dream. I had wandered through an enchanting forest, searching for something elusive. Just as I felt lost, guides would appear, leading me forward. Though the quest’s purpose remained a mystery, I awoke feeling energized and hopeful.
Sunlight streamed through the window, illuminating floating dust particles. I smiled, remembering my baby nephew trying to catch those shimmering specks. In my mind’s eye, I saw family faces—my dad walking toward my nephew, my brother beaming at my sister-in-law, my mom caring for my grandma. The day outside sparkled with promise.
Climbing Adventures in San Antonio
After five rain-soaked days spent at the YMCA, yoga studios, and Armadillo Boulder, the sun finally emerged. We headed to Salado Creek’s Medicine Wall for rock climbing. Morning dew and swarms of mosquitoes nearly drove us away, but the thrill of the climb prevailed. A curious red fox even strolled by as we scaled the cliffs.
We met Connor and Stacey, a fun-loving couple, and together we enrolled in a trad climbing course at Enchanted Rock. Trad climbing meant setting our own anchors in the rock’s cracks—a whole new challenge! Our instructor, Adam, was a Texan storyteller extraordinaire, spinning hilarious tales about politics and gender dynamics while teaching us the ropes (literally).
Our feet ached after scaling routes like Jackknife, Cave Crag, and No Sweat & Sweat (rated 5.4 - 5.6). It was our first lead trad climb—exhilarating but not quite my thing. The weather kept us guessing—one day felt like autumn at 28°C, while freezing nights sent us scrambling for our extreme sleeping bags.
Enchanted Rock and Hill Country
We hiked to Enchanted Rock’s summit before sunset, marveling at its massive granite formations, reminiscent of Yosemite’s Lembert Dome. A raccoon dashed by as we soaked in the magical view. The diverse flora and fauna of Hill Country thrive despite Texas’s dryness. The mild weather abundance of wildlife —a perfect retirement haven for nature-loving souls.
Austin and an Unexpected Reunion
Before reaching Austin, we boondocked at Pedernales Falls State Park. MTB trails remained elusive due to hunting season closures, though Theo managed a quick morning ride before the next rainstorm hit.
By sheer chance, I discovered that my British cousin Gemma was now working for Amazon in Dallas. We arranged a meet-up in Austin—a delightful surprise, as our last family gathering had been in Cyprus for cousin GiaLinh’s wedding.
We celebrated our shared December birthdays with a weekend full of unforgettable experiences. A bike ride took us along the Colorado River in Austin, where we were rewarded with breathtaking views of the skyline and the vibrant autumn landscape. During a canoe trip, we spotted turtles at every turn, adding a touch of nature’s charm to our adventure. The culinary highlight was the legendary Texas BBQ: tender Beef Brisket, juicy ribs, and mouth-watering Pulled Pork, followed by a decadent chocolate cake and ice cream that perfectly capped off the day. Texas tested us with stormy winds and unpredictable weather, but it also gifted us with cherished memories, a deeper sense of family connection, and thrilling adventures under its ever-changing skies – a weekend that will stay with us for a long time.Read more
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- Day 259–273
- December 17, 2024 at 6:30 AM - December 31, 2024
- 14 nights
- 🌙 7 °C
- Altitude: 109 m
United StatesCat Osterman baseball/softball complex32°49’11” N 117°10’29” W
40. Arizona and California

40. From Texas to Arizona to Meet Wilson, then California
The 13-hour drive to Arizona felt endless as we anticipated meeting Wilson, our adventurous friend from Hong Kong. He'd ambitiously set out to climb every 4,000-meter peak in Europe (missing only a few) and had made a point to connect with us during our U.S. road trip. Wilson, a glaciology PhD candidate, was fresh off a stint as a guide in Antarctica, showcasing the ice and penguins to tourists. He was flying in from South America, a testament to his dedication to this rendezvous.
Our journey was unfortunately punctuated by another flat tire, thankfully at a gas station instead of the desolate highway. This unexpected detour cost us half a day, but Theo, a skilled driver, navigated the challenging roads with aplomb.
We arrived in Arizona at 6 am, and I immediately woke up to prepare for a crucial job interview. Landing the position meant an early return to Switzerland and an immediate work start, adding a layer of urgency to our trip. Entering the Marriott, a stark contrast emerged: the luxurious hotel with its pool and Christmas tree juxtaposed against the surreal desert landscape, a breathtaking expanse of Saguaro cacti.
Just when we thought things were running smoothly, trouble struck. The van's heating system malfunctioned, the thermostat broken. Attempting a fix, we disconnected the second battery, only to be met with a shower of sparks. I believe Theo may have blown a fuse, plunging the van into darkness. We nearly replaced the deep-cycle battery, but a helpful Pleasure-Way technician guided us over the phone, resolving the issue.
Saguaro National Park, a marvel of diverse ecosystems, spans elevations from 2,180 feet to 8,667 feet. The interplay of sun, wind, and water availability gives rise to a remarkable array of habitats. Cactus species, with names like hedgehog, barrel, staghorn, and fishhook, offer a glimpse into this unique environment. The "Teddy bear" cholla, however, is best admired from afar. The low desert boasts creosote, catclaw, ocotillo, and trees like mesquite, ironwood, and Palo Verde. I even spotted a jojoba tree, a valuable source of oil that may one day replace whale oil. The Sonoran Desert is also home to the Gila monster, the white-nosed coati, and owls, creatures I yearned to observe. Alas, the winter chill likely kept them hidden.
Climbing in Tucson offered a surreal experience, a blend of mountain vistas and the towering presence of Saguaro cacti, evoking images of Mexico and tequila, despite never having visited the country. At Zabba Dome, we tackled some challenging sport routes. Fueled by adrenaline, I successfully led every climb, a source of immense pride. The basalt rock was impressive, though lacking the Saguaro cacti views.
The next day, we embarked on a demanding multi-pitch climb (5.7, 5.9, and 5.8) called "Big Lebowski" in the morning. In the afternoon, we hiked up Rock Fellow, attempting the "inside passage," a challenging chimney. However, lacking rope and concerned about the precarious descent, we opted for a safer route. It was a long but rewarding day.
Chiricagua National Monument, with its numerous hoodoos, reminded me of Bryce Canyon, albeit less crowded and with distinct rock formations. At Sweet Rock, we continued our climbing endeavors, unfortunately culminating in a hard fall that injured my finger.
We were unable to explore Kartchner Caverns as all tours were fully booked and entry without a guided tour was prohibited.
In San Diego, we received a warm welcome from my cousin Van and her humorous husband Luong. Also met her kids Katelyn and Viviana with her boyfriend Josh. Our time together was a delightful blend of good food, lively conversation, and cherished memories. A sumptuous Chinese feast – winter melon soup, steamed garoupa, clams, snow pea veggies, string beans, suckling pig, Peking duck with baos, orange chicken, and a bean tapioca dessert – was the culinary highlight.Read more
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- Day 273–287
- December 31, 2024 at 4:00 PM - January 14, 2025
- 14 nights
- ☀️ 23 °C
- Altitude: Sea level
United StatesPalianihi Point19°22’47” N 155°53’55” W
41. Hawaii - Aloha State

41. Aloha Hawaii! E Komo Mai!
From San Diego, California, to Hawaii – a Vietnamese baguette for breakfast followed by a 5.5-hour flight. A luxurious journey compared to the 30+ hour flights from Europe, this island of volcanoes and stunning beaches felt like a dream come true.
New Year's Eve delivered an unforgettable spectacle: the awe-inspiring eruption of Kilauea volcano. What better fireworks display could one imagine? Free, natural, sustainable, and truly grand.
The southeast coast boasts incredible beaches, arguably the most beautiful in the United States. The black sand beaches, formed from volcanic ash, were mesmerizing. At Isaac Hale Park, we discovered a hidden paradise: a warm, natural green pool fed by the incoming tide. It felt like a giant bathtub, perfect for leisurely backstrokes.
We visited a zoo, though I'm not typically a fan. However, we were eager to see the Nene, a critically endangered goose that sadly reminded me of the extinct Dodo bird of Réunion Island. The highlight for me was encountering a stunning lizard, resembling a lifelike gummy candy.
The next day, we camped near the Kaumana Caves, pitching our tent beneath a majestic tree with roots reaching down like curtains. It was a truly romantic spot. Our underground adventure at Kaumana Caves was unique and somewhat daunting. The low ceilings and potential for falling debris made for a thrilling, if slightly scary, journey. Theo unfortunately bumped his head, but we both emerged unscathed.
Akaka Falls, with its cascading water misting the basalt cliffs draped in lush green ferns, was a breathtaking sight that drew crowds of visitors.
In the north, Laupahoehoe Beach offered a picturesque campground with stunning ocean views and a backdrop of swaying palm trees.
Waipo'o, renowned for its taro cultivation, bears the scars of Western contact in the early 1800s. Introduced diseases decimated the native population. Intermarriage with Chinese, Portuguese, Japanese, and Filipino sugar plantation workers shaped the island's current multi-ethnic landscape. Rice farming flourished here from the 1800s to the 1930s.
Kamehameha, the King of Hawaii, unified the islands through both battle and diplomacy in 1810. He famously emphasized the importance of happiness over material wants for his people.
In Waimea, we indulged in Malasada, a Portuguese-style donut similar to Austrian Krapfen. At the farmers' market, we had a delightful surprise encounter with my Canadian cousin Kathy, who maintains a summer home on the west coast of Hawaii.
We embarked on a short but steep hike to Pololu Valley, a former mule trail connecting the valley to others to the south and Kohala. In the past, this fertile land supported the cultivation of taro, sweet potatoes, bananas, breadfruit, and kava. It also boasted a brackish fishpond behind the dunes.
We completed the Ala Kahakai National Historic Trail, a littoral hike which was quite hot. However, we found refreshing respite by jumping into the Pacific Ocean several times, enjoying the exhilarating cascades of high waves. As the sun dipped below the horizon at Spencer Beach Park, we were treated to a breathtaking spectacle: whales breaching in the distance. We also spotted green sea turtles and dolphins during our Fisherman's trail hike along the beaches. Mahalo!
Of course, no visit to Hawaii would be complete without ascending Mauna Kea, the highest mountain in Hawaii. We hiked up the Humu'ula trail to Ho'hakahele and passed the mysterious Lake Waiau. Reaching the summit of Mauna Kea (4,205 meters) felt like stepping onto the moon, with its rough volcanic landscape. The next day Theo was eager to challenge himself by riding up on a gravel bike. I opted for hiking from beach to beach and snorkeling, which is amazing on this island as there is so much to see under water.
Mauna Kea is considered the tallest mountain when measured from its base on the ocean floor. It rises an astonishing 33,476 feet (10,203 meters) from the depths of the Pacific Ocean floor. While its peak reaches 13,796 feet (4,205 meters) above sea level, its true height lies beneath the waves, making it the tallest mountain on Earth when measured from its base to summit.
The remainder of our time was spent snorkeling, exploring the vibrant underwater world teeming with colorful fish and graceful turtles. I even saw a unicorn-fish! Unbelievable! And the Humuhumunukunukuapua'a, the Hawaiian national fish. 🥰 Theo also went for scuba diving through a volcanic tube and even saw a shark. At Kealakekua, we enjoyed a nice hike and excellent snorkeling, witnessing an abundance of colorful fish. What a wonderful time.Read more
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- Day 292–305
- January 19, 2025 at 12:55 PM - February 1, 2025
- 13 nights
- ☁️ 4 °C
- Altitude: 2,500 m
United StatesHeavenly Valley38°55’45” N 119°55’52” W
42. GoShredSum (CA/UT)

From Warmth to Cold: Sun, Snow, and the GoShredSum Epic Pass Adventure (California, Utah, Salt Lake City)
Leaving the warmth of Hawaii behind, I unfortunately succumbed to a cold after the damp, chilly nights of camping. Despite this, we enjoyed three wonderful days with my cousin Van and her husband in San Diego. We savored delicious food, delightful company, and endless conversations and laughter. Being fellow foodies, we connected instantly. Their hospitality was incredible, making us feel completely at home.
Our skiing adventure began in Kirkwood, California. Despite the sunshine, the temperature plummeted, leaving a delicate frost of ice flowers on our camper windows each morning. We began the process of advertising our campervan and mountain bikes for sale online, while simultaneously searching for an apartment in Lucerne for our return to Switzerland. A day trip to Grover Hot Springs provided a welcome respite from the cold, allowing us to warm our bones.
Heavenly ski resort offered stunning scenery, with runs juxtaposing breathtaking views of Lake Tahoe on the California side and the snow-dusted desert mountains on the Nevada side. Northstar marked our last ski day in California. The dry wind and frigid temperatures left my skin feeling rough and itchy, necessitating a recovery day during our drive to the next ski destination.
Driving through Nevada this time was a stark contrast to our summer trip, with the mountains now cloaked in snow. We encountered two accidents caused by the snowy conditions, thankfully involving only light snowfall. I'm grateful for Theo's vigilant driving.
Skiing in Park City, Utah, the largest ski resort in the US, was fantastic. We even enjoyed some fresh powder during a ski tour. I felt like a child, gleefully eating snow off the trees! The runs were excellent, and the pistes were impeccably groomed. Despite the limited snowfall, the conditions were the best we'd experienced so far. However, the nights were bitterly cold, freezing the water in our bottles inside the vehicle. Each morning began with the ritual of scraping ice flowers from the windows. One day, I even got the hero title helping a skier who had a bad fall and lost his skis on a steep slope.
As the weather worsened, we decided to retreat to Salt Lake City, after two weeks of pure skiing. Our priorities were a thorough car wash to remove the salt and ice, a few nights of warmer temperatures, and a chance for me to recover from my cough. Salt Lake City also surprised us with its spectacular coffee scene. Loki, in particular, boasted impressive baristas. I indulged in a delicious Hojicha Latte Almond, its nutty flavor from the roasted matcha leaves a true treat. We also enjoyed some excellent meals in the city.Read more
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- Day 307–321
- February 3, 2025 at 9:31 AM - February 17, 2025
- 14 nights
- ☁️ 7 °C
- Altitude: 1,416 m
United StatesLoma39°10’19” N 108°49’52” W
43. Champagne Powder in CO

43. Champagne Powder in Colorado
Fruita (MTB) - back to skiing in Beaver Creek and Vail - Denver (total food indulgement)
From bone-chilling -10°C back to a balmy +20°C. After our deep freeze in the Utah ski resorts, we craved warmth and headed to Colorado. A quick stop in Fruita allowed us to dust off our mountain bikes. The weather was perfect—warm sun, clear skies, and everything was thawing, including the ice in our car and the lingering cold in our bones.
A visit to the Colorado National Monument provided a welcome change of scenery after days on the slopes, a brief respite before returning to the snow.
Back on skis and back in the cold. Beaver Creek Ski Resort seemed vast and relatively flat to me, though we did tackle the Birds of Prey, the legendary World Cup venue where Hermann Maier, "The Herminator," blazed down the downhill course in 1999. Skiing in Vail was incredible. My initial impression was unfavorable—icy conditions in the morning—but by 10 a.m., with the sun high and the air still crisp, the snow transformed. It was slushicious! I have to admit, the slush in the US is a revelation. It was a completely new and delightful ski experience, unlike the often-dreadful slush skiing in Europe. We also met a delightful character named Edward (64) who showed us some hidden gems, including runs like Lover's Leap and Forever.
Another day brought a gift of deep powder, a truly amazing experience. People talk about "champagne powder," and I never fully grasped its magic until then. We connected with another friendly American, Rick, who became our guide to the best local runs. A true snow whisperer (or listener—"Don't go where it's crusty, listen to the snow," he advised), Rick led us away from the crunchy stuff and into a world of pure powder. We explored glades, carving through the super fluffy, flowy slopes far from the groomed runs, embracing the off-piste freedom. He was our powder guru. I think it was some of the best skiing I've ever done. The unique feature here is the bowls, and I was particularly smitten with Sun Down Bowl. The off-piste run was such a thrill that we lapped it six times in a row. Keystone was equally fantastic; we spent the entire day glade skiing, feeling like snow ferries gliding over the flowy hills. It was exhilarating...though the Siberian-like -20°C temperatures added another layer of challenge.
In Denver, we reunited with my UK cousin, Gemma, for a long weekend to… well, not exactly celebrate President's Day (Mon, Feb 17th). We enjoyed some lovely hikes and indulged in delicious food and visited the largest single site Coors brewery & tasting.Read more
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- Day 321–335
- February 17, 2025 at 11:03 PM - March 3, 2025
- 14 nights
- 🌫 -10 °C
- Altitude: 1,875 m
United StatesCedar Creek39°46’20” N 105°14’45” W
44. Colorado's Untamed Powder

44. Colorado's Untamed Powder
Keystone - Breckenridge - Crested Butte - Telluride
"Work hard, play harder," the mantra echoed, and in Keystone, Colorado, we lived it to the fullest. Two days of legendary powder skiing, a baptism in snow that felt like a dream spun into reality. We even dared to venture into the backcountry, skinning uphill for the sublime reward of untouched slopes. I've chased powder across continents, but this was something transcendent. A three-day deluge had transformed the mountain, and even the seasoned ski patrol, veterans of countless descents, declared it the best snow in half a decade. Not even the famed depths of Japan could rival this celestial powder.
Independence Bowl held a particular, heart-stopping allure. Its steep, almost vertical face was intimidating, yet utterly exhilarating. Each turn was a conquest, a defiant dance with gravity. Our nocturnal escapades, however, proved less triumphant. A late-night encounter with the local police at a recreation center forced a hasty relocation at 2:30 am. Exhaustion clung to us the following day, a leaden weight, but the siren call of the slopes was too strong. We skied relentlessly, driven by an insatiable hunger for the snow.
Our evenings were a symphony of intense physical activity and cozy contentment. Yoga, Pilates, high-intensity interval training, and weightlifting sessions fueled our bodies, transforming us into honed instruments. Hot showers washed away the day's chill, followed by hearty dinners cooked in our trusty camper. Then, the simple pleasures: binge-watching shows, indulging in chips, pistachios, and warm chocolate chip cookies. Deep, restorative sleep followed, a well-earned reward for our warrior-like efforts on the slopes. I swear, Theo had reached the zenith of his outdoor adventurer persona. And me? A former military service with officer lieutenant Hautzendorfer 😅. It wasn't always a joyride. I even lost a piece of a tooth shredding and tumbling down a steep slope in Breckenridge—at the extreme piste, Third Bowl 🥉.
Our Colorado tour continued, a whirlwind of exhilarating descents. Keystone, Breckenridge, Crested Butte (with its challenging terrain, expertly groomed runs, and demanding off-piste areas), Telluride (terrifyingly steep, yet breathtakingly scenic), and Vail each offered unique thrills. Telluride, in particular, captured my heart. Its charming, small-town atmosphere was infectious, a warm embrace in the mountain air. Even a grizzled bus driver greeted me with a friendly fist bump, a gesture reminiscent of quaint Alpine villages. A meticulous ski service at REI ensured our gear was primed for peak performance, amplifying the sheer joy of carving through the pristine snow.
American skiing offered a distinct, liberating experience. The abundance of maintained, yet ungroomed slopes was a revelation. In Europe, the lines between groomed and off-piste (no support, you're on your own) are sharply defined. Here, the vast bowl slopes, the challenging mogul fields, and the gentle glade skiing—my personal favorite—created a playground of endless possibilities. They also have black diamond, double black diamond, and extreme pistes. We conquered them all. The experience was transformative. Gear up, head out, rip it off—that became our driving force.
Our last shred stop in Washington: Stevens Pass. Nineteen hours to go...Read more
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- Day 333–337
- March 1, 2025 at 9:36 PM - March 5, 2025
- 4 nights
- ☁️ -2 °C
- Altitude: 2,678 m
United StatesBear Creek37°56’10” N 107°48’10” W
45. Cascade Concrete and Farewell US

45. Cascade Concrete and Farewell US
Skiing tbc - Moab Intermezzo - Boise - Leavenworth - Stevens Pass (WA) - back to Canada
The finish line shimmered, a mirage of home after a year of wandering. Our final month, a scatter of moments stitched together like a well-worn travel blanket, began with a sun-drenched interlude in Moab. We traded snow for slickrock, our mountain bikes humming a familiar tune as we carved through the red desert. A final tune-up at REI, a bittersweet ritual, as we prepped our trusty steeds for their next adventurers. Salt Lake City offered a brief, luxurious thaw—a cosy hotel room where my frost-bitten toes finally surrendered to warmth, and a chance to check on apartment listings and job applications, the practicalities of re-entry to Switzerland nipping at our heels.
Boise, a brief flash of green and amber, beckoned with the promise of a traditional pub, its warm glow a welcome contrast to the miles we'd covered. We'd heard whispers of its vibrant Basque community, a hidden gem nestled in the American West, but the tavernas, their doors closed by ten, remained a tantalizing mystery. A nineteen-hour haul, a blur of asphalt and fading light, delivered us to Leavenworth.
Leavenworth, a curious confection of Bavarian charm, felt less like a town and more like a stage set. Its shops, a carefully curated collection of European replicas, catered to the tourist throngs, yet still held a certain undeniable appeal. We'd come for the snow, for a final, glorious descent before crossing the border, and Stevens Pass awaited.
But the mountains, usually grand and welcoming, greeted us with a veil of fog and a persistent drizzle that morphed into a wet, clinging snow. They called it "Cascade Concrete," a heavy, waterlogged blanket that clung to our skis and sapped our energy. It wasn't the triumphant ski finale we'd envisioned, but it was a fittingly messy, unpredictable end to our American chapter.
Two days of battling the elements, of navigating the whiteout and the slush, and then, it was time. Time to say goodbye to the sprawling landscapes, the wide-open roads, and the endless possibilities of America. Time to trade "Ms. American Pie" for the promise of new adventures north of the border. "The maple leaf beckoned," we whispered, a mix of anticipation and nostalgia swirling in the crisp mountain air.Read more
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- Day 339–345
- March 7, 2025 at 11:00 PM - March 13, 2025
- 6 nights
- ☁️ -2 °C
- Altitude: 1,594 m
CanadaHorstman Glacier50°6’50” N 122°53’30” W
46. Return to Canada - Carpe Ski'em

46. Surrey - Vancouver - Back to Ski: Whistler - Kicking Horse (Gondola Accident, Therefore Closed) - Surrey
Our return to Canada was a poignant mix of nostalgia and anticipation. We were on a mission: to find a loving new home for our trusty Pleasure Way motorhome. It had been our steadfast companion, a rolling sanctuary, and we hoped its next owners would cherish it as much as we did. We’d added our own chapter to its story, driving it from 123,000 kilometers, the mark left by its previous owner, to 170,000 kilometers in this past year alone. That's roughly 120 kilometers a day, a testament to the miles of memories we’d created together. Yet, the practicalities of settling down loomed large.
The apartment hunt, a saga in itself, had been a series of closed doors. Six rejections out of eleven applications—the numbers stung. Would we find a roof over our heads in Switzerland? Or would we be back to van life, Moreno (our VW camper van) once again our nomadic home? And then there was the work front, a persistent puzzle I was determined to solve.
Surrey offered a welcome respite. It was a joy to reconnect with our dear old friend Walter, to share stories and laughter, and to luxuriate in the simple pleasure of a real bed for two nights. A brief, grounding pause before the next leg of our journey.
Whistler beckoned. The mountains, those majestic giants, called to us. We were returning to the slopes, eager to rediscover the thrill of the shred. This was more than just a skiing trip; it was a farewell. A final, exhilarating adventure with our Pleasure Way before it embarked on its own new chapter.
Whistler delivered an unforgettable experience; we enjoyed countless tree runs in the incredible powder, which fell for two days straight. "Carpe ski'em!" We were ready to carve our way down those legendary slopes, to feel the crisp mountain air on our faces, and to create memories that would last a lifetime. It was breathtaking, like a scene from a fairy tale. It felt as if Frau Holle was shaking out her heavenly featherbeds, creating endless powder. Or, as one might jokingly say, God was using his popcorn machine. It felt like sliding on velvet. Even challenging runs seemed effortless, pure joy. It is how I imagined floating on clouds when I was a kid, powder snow makes it happen for real, haha. Like a dream come true.
The Peak 2 Peak Gondola was an awe-inspiring experience. This engineering marvel, spanning the distance between Whistler and Blackcomb mountains, holds the record for one of the longest unsupported gondola spans in the world, stretching 4.4 kilometers (2.7 miles). At its highest point, it soars 436 meters (1,430 feet) above the valley floor, offering breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding peaks, glaciers, and forests. The sheer scale and smooth, silent glide across the vast expanse were truly unforgettable, providing a unique perspective on the majestic landscape. To ride in that gondola was a beautiful part of our final days in Whistler.
One day, we met a German guy, Benjamin, and we skinned up a glacier, enticed by the promise of pristine powder on the descent. Descending, we entered a bowl choked with debris from a massive, estimated grade 4 avalanche. The sheer weight of the snowpack must have placed catastrophic pressure on the lake's ice, likely causing it to fracture.
From the summit to the base, we encountered a kaleidoscope of weather conditions, temperatures, and, consequently, snow types. We experienced powder at the peak with near-zero visibility, sun and frost at mid-mountain, icy patches, and mild, slushy conditions at the bottom. We also met numerous international people; most of the staff were from Australia or New Zealand. I jokingly referred to it as Whistralia & Kiwiland, a testament to the vibrant international community that makes the resort so unique.
While skiing in Whistler, we had the serendipitous opportunity to sit next to two local celebrities on the chairlift. One was Stephanie Sloan, a 3x World Cup winner, and the other was the mother of Marcus Goguen, a Freeride World Tour Racer and Junior World Champion. It seemed like everyone in BC was a born ski enthusiast, a testament to the region's deep connection with the mountains.Read more
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- Day 348–354
- March 16, 2025 at 9:28 AM - March 22, 2025
- 6 nights
- ⛅ 4 °C
- Altitude: 43 m
CanadaSurrey49°12’32” N 122°50’48” W
47. Canada - Skiing in the Rockies

Chapter 47: Rockies or Bust: Powder Dreams and Political Headwinds
Surrey to Fernie, then Kicking Horse, Kimberley, and back to Surrey—a fifteen-hour pilgrimage, launched under a sky that wept rain. We didn't care. Rain in Surrey meant powder in the Rockies, a gambler's bet we were ready to cash in. And boy, did we hit the jackpot.
Imagine this: one side of a mountain pass, spring's gentle green, the other, a blizzard's white fury. Fernie, the self-proclaimed "Powder Highway," lived up to its name, churning out snow like a celestial factory. It was a damn miracle, a perfect storm of our desires.
While carving fresh tracks, we were also hustling, playing real estate agents for our trusty Pleasure Way. Online ads, library bulletins, even supermarket flyers—desperate measures for a sweet ride. We had a hook, a Swiss couple craving the Canadian dream. Fingers crossed, eh?
But the air wasn't just filled with snow. A weird political undercurrent ran through everything. Trump's "51st state" jab, the liquor tax beef—it was everywhere. Even a hockey game, supposed to be a sacred space of pucks and cheers, turned into a political mudslinging match. Boos and jeers, not for the opposing team's skill, but their… well, their nationality. It left a sour taste.
We embraced the ski bum life, living and breathing the slopes. Van life, ski podcasts, and chasing that perfect line became our religion. Those podcasts, man, they were gold. "Athletic stance," "pressure on the outside ski," "dynamic movement"—we soaked it all in. The "penny pincher" analogy, perfect for both our budget and our shin pressure. "Where your hands are, is your body," they’d say, a mantra as we visualized our descent.
Fernie, Kicking Horse, Kimberley—these places were a masterclass in raw talent. In Fernie, we wrestled our van down a ridiculously steep, snow-choked slope—a comedy of errors. Kicking Horse, with its broken gondola (thanks, two-week breakdown), forced us to skin up, earning our turns. And everywhere, kids, kids, were ripping it up, throwing 360s like it was nothing. It felt like every kid in BC was born with skis strapped to their feet, a testament to the mountain's magnetic pull.
Our final BC ski odyssey was a chaotic symphony—perfect powder, treacherous ice, slushy runs, and icicles that shimmered like diamonds. It was a glorious, messy, perfect farewell to a year of wild adventures.
But the skis aren’t going into storage just yet. Europe beckons, maybe. And then, spring. The warmth, the blossoming flowers, the birdsong—the siren call of the climbing season. We're ready for the next chapter.
But the air wasn't just filled with snow. A weird political undercurrent ran through everything. Trump's "51st state" jab, the liquor tax beef—it was everywhere. Even a hockey game, supposed to be a sacred space of pucks and cheers, turned into a political mudslinging match. Boos and jeers, not for the opposing team's skill, but their… well, their nationality. It left a sour taste.
We embraced the ski bum life, living and breathing the slopes. Van life, ski podcasts, and chasing that perfect line became our religion. Those podcasts, man, they were gold. "Athletic stance," "pressure on the outside ski," "dynamic movement"—we soaked it all in. The "penny pincher" analogy, perfect for both our budget and our shin pressure. "Where your hands are, is your body," they’d say, a mantra as we visualized our descent.
Fernie, Kicking Horse, Kimberley—these places were a masterclass in raw talent. In Fernie, we wrestled our van down a ridiculously steep, snow-choked slope—a comedy of errors. Kicking Horse, with its broken gondola (thanks, two-week breakdown), forced us to skin up, earning our turns. And everywhere, kids, kids, were ripping it up, throwing 360s like it was nothing. It felt like every kid in BC was born with skis strapped to their feet, a testament to the mountain's magnetic pull.
Our final BC ski odyssey was a chaotic symphony—perfect powder, treacherous ice, slushy runs, and icicles that shimmered like diamonds. It was a glorious, messy, perfect farewell to a year of wild adventures.
But the skis aren’t going into storage just yet. Europe beckons, maybe. And then, spring. The warmth, the blossoming flowers, the birdsong—the siren call of the climbing season. We're ready for the next chapter.Read more
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- Day 366
- Thursday, April 3, 2025 at 12:38 PM
- ⛅ 14 °C
- Altitude: 464 m
SwitzerlandLucerne47°2’40” N 8°18’30” E
50. THE END – the great value

50. North America
THE END – THE GREAT VALUE
End of Journey: I feel incredibly happy and grateful for the opportunity to take this wondrous sabbatical year for ourselves. It was a chance to escape the everyday hustle, lose ourselves in the moment, and embrace the vastness of nature. Out in the open, there’s always enough room to roam. One of life’s great mysteries is that we never quite know what comes next—making every day a surprise. We wandered through blooming deserts, scaled towering peaks, stood beneath sandstone arches, watched tumbling waterfalls, marvelled at steaming geysers, and witnessed the raw power of calving glaciers. We crossed prairies that reminded me of Karl May’s novels and explored great plains teeming with untamed beauty. The best things in life are indeed free. I tend to avoid visiting the same place twice—not because it’s unworthy, but because there are still so many untapped destinations to discover. I believe the real magic of travel lies in experiencing a place for the first time—wide-eyed and without judgement—whether it’s the grandeur of the Grand Canyon or an unnamed peak reached by only a few. Over the years, I’ve become a bit spoiled when it comes to travel. I’m uncomfortable being a tourist—waiting in line to take the same photo as everyone else. I’d much rather earn breathtaking views with a long, demanding hike or a thrilling scramble. Souvenir T-shirts were never my thing, and nothing makes me cringe more than stumbling through a food order or paying for bottled water. I believe nature belongs to everyone. I prefer wild, free experiences—unless it’s a National Park, where access is thoughtfully preserved. Theo’s meticulous planning has also made me a bit of a travel snob—by his side, I never feel lost or unprepared. Sure, traveling has its tough moments—walking when your feet ache, trudging through scrub and thorns, climbing toward a summit that seems endlessly far, braving bad weather, washing in icy streams, cooking when you're already starving, or setting up your tent soaked in rain... But these challenges shape you. The places you’ve reached through your own effort are the ones that truly stay with you. Sometimes, after a particularly strenuous day, I’m completely fed up—but after a good night’s sleep, I’m amazed by how rewarding it all feels. I dislike zoos and domesticated animals. It’s far more thrilling to spot wildlife by accident—by surprise. Parking somewhere remote and taking a cold plunge in a wild river always feels like the truest adventure.
Live life to the fullest. Balance ambition with joy in the present moment. Travel with fewer expectations, and the world will surprise and reward you. Every corner we passed was breathtaking—but this journey was only a glimpse of the world’s vastness and its stunning beauty. And I must remind myself—this was only the beginning of an endless adventure. Our journey was packed with what some might call “great value”—not just in the literal, Walmart sense, but in a much deeper one. Just like their private label offers practicality and accessibility, this trip gave us immeasurable richness—an unbeatable return on the investment of time, effort, and curiosity. Life’s greatest value isn’t found in things. It’s in moments like these—moments that shape us, stretch us, and leave us forever changed. This, truly, was great value for the soul. I hope my adventures inspire you. May you feel awe in life—for all its myriad forms. Happy travels, forever.Read more