• Pia Moll McCarthy
Jan – Mar 2023

South East Asia Escapade

What was supposed to be a holiday in the Philippines has turned into an indefinite adventure. Read more
  • Trip start
    January 18, 2023

    Port Barton

    January 19, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Cozy sleepy little seaside town which comes alive in the evening with local and visitor's hustle and bustle. The local collection of cocks crows all day long and at night as of 3am, so sleep hours range from sundown at 6-7pm to 3am really.
    Here we slept in bamboo cabins surrounded by forest, what a treat of nature sounds! We recovered from our jet-lag, took and island hopping day tour and explored the beach and town. As a first contact with Filipino lifestyle it was perfect!
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  • The Calamian Expedition - Day 1

    January 22, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We took a van up from Port Barton to El Nido with the intention of spending only a day in El Nido doing island hopping around Bacuit Bay. However,
    the ferries and flights out of El Nido were fully booked for four days straight. After leaving our backpacks at our cabins overlooking Cadlao Island we took a walk towards town. Walking around the busy westernised town of El Nido we were lucky enough to come across the opportunity of hitching a ride the next morning out of El Nido on an enticing 3 day / 2 night island hopping adventure through the beatiful paradise Calamian Islands.

    And what an adventurous ride it was!!!
    It wasn't just one of your regular tourist trips. Being so last minute and improvised we were a small group of 8 people when usually these boats have 15 to 25 guests. Not only that, but we unknowingly happened to fall upon a not very official-looking philippino tour company. We were herded into a suspiciously small looking boat, with a very poor english speaking philippino guide (Alex), in adverse weather out of the village of Sibaltan. 2 hours of waves, wind in our faces was enough for us to become quite close to the rest of our travel companions. Iolanda and Tiago, a portuguese couple, Kati, a german solo traveller, and Joni, Daniel and Yarin, the youthful israeli trio. We all had a certain feeling of unease, the elephant in the room no one spoke about. I quickly concluded that with 3 doctors and 3 guys fresh our of the israeli army, we were bound to find a way of surviving were something to go wrong.

    After the initial island crossing we reached Calibang Island, our first of many mind-blowing turquoise starfish-filled, coral-surrounded, paradise island. Beneath the water was a colour-filled spectacle teeming with life. Corals and fish of all shapes and sizes.
    Alex and the crew served us a delicious meal of rice, fish, vegetables and fruit. We continued on to another island where without realising we surfaced to a big boat, with 6 crew in total, more seemly of a multi-day tour.
    From here, everything looked a lot brighter as we sailed past white sandbeach palm-tree islands.

    That night we slept in very basic huts built over a salt water lagoon on Belenben Island, courtesy of Anty Mila, who has spent most of her adult life living on this remote Calamian isle, far away from the only village on the island.
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  • The Calamian Expedition - Day 2

    January 23, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    After a blustery wind and water soundtracked night, synonymous with sleeplesness, we were canoed onto our boat where we ate a very complete a delicious breakfast. From here the expedition continued on to Linapacan island for more snorkeling delight and fun cliff jumping. From here we proceded through beautiful Araw beach on Culion Island towards our next sleeping spot on Dipalian Island, an island owned and lived on by 5 generations of the same family. What an honour to be taken in and to be able to share the beach, their home, with them.Read more

  • Coron Shipwreck Diving

    January 26, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Coron Bay is scattered with WWII Japanese ships. Such an impacting and awing experience!

    We were able to see Kogyo Maru, where I did my advanced deep water dive down to 30m. Afterwards we dove down to Olimpia Maru where I did the advanced adventure wreck dive, swimming into the different interior of the ship with a flashlight and identifiying possible hazards at 25m of depth.
    We finished off with a shallow dive at Luzon Maru and Luzon Reef.
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  • Coron Bay Ultimate Tour

    January 27, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ 🌧 26 °C

    Just across the bay from Coron town is Coron Island, which belongs to the Tagbanua Tribe. It is a volcanic island with numerous lakes on it which boast a particular rock formation and characteristic thermocline. We booked a tour with our friends from the boat trip and went to Kayangan Lake, Barracuda Lake, the twin lagoons, and after that to Malwawey island for a coral garden and chinese shipwreck snorkel.Read more

  • Camiguin

    January 29, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Moving from Palawan to the Central Bisayas, on the island of Camiguin we encountered our first bit of monsoon season. So we rented a motor bike, took out our rain ponchos a set out to explore what the weather could allow.
    This is also a volcanic mountain, with a 64km road circling the coast and Mount Hibok-Hibok Volcano at 1300m. So clouds acumulate at its top and middle causing abundant rainfall in the wet season.

    We ended up spending our time leisurely going from café to restaurant and resting from the excitement and business of Palawan. There are a few
    tasty restaurants we treated ourselves to on the ocasion of my birthday. That being said, the most expensive and luxurious meal cost us all of 27 euro!

    We were lucky enough to get an hour or two of sunshine so we jumped at the occasion and got a short boat trip to White Island, a strip of white sand opposite the black volcanic sandy beaches of Camiguin, facing its imposing volcanoes.
    While we were on there we got a sudden rain shower with strong winds, and the only place we could shelter was in the water. Quite the funny experience!! Monsoon reality.

    Oh... on sundays everything is pretty quiet and we happened to come a cross a place teeming with people and motorbikes. So we stopped to take a look and found it was the weekly cock-fighting event. We took a peek at it and were somewhat bewildered by the betting system they have previously to the actual fight. Everyone starts shouting and gesticulating at one another, and somehow they reach an understanding among the chaos.
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  • Siquijor

    February 2, 2023 on the Philippines

    Siquijor!!
    The magical island of spersticions, magic trees, waterfalls, magic potions, amazing corals and bountiful turtles. It is very laid back, well organised and is a little cheaper than most places. It has a special feeling of homeliness and has been our favourite of the whole trip.

    We have been blessed with good weather and lovely people. We loved the laid back feek to the island as we drove around on a scooter a visited eateries, waterfalls and other sights.
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  • Siquijor continued...

    February 5, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We encountered a very nice dive center which has made diving an absolutely divine experience. We sighted 6 turtles in only 2 dives! They are such serene creatures to observe.

    We visited Apo Island with some friends (Kati and Hatem), THE turtle destination due to its abundant sea grass which turtles feed on. There we were able to swim with so many turtles and snorkel among the most beautiful coral gardens.

    After a few amazing days of blissful holidaying on Siquijor, Salva finally left. Our parting was so emotional and sad, yet full of love. Bye bye Salva. I love you. See you soon!
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  • More of Siquijor

    February 6, 2023 on the Philippines

    So after Salva left I had the occasion of spending 2 days alone, 1 of which I was rather down. But it lasted a short while as the adventure continued with beautiful sunsets, interacting with lovely hostel mates and completing my advanced open water diving course while discovering even more lovely dive spots in Siquijor.
    And then... the girl gang arrived!!
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  • Siquijor with the Girls

    February 8, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ 🌬 27 °C

    We did: the most waterfall tour climbing up 13 different waterfalls in a beautiful jungle, some waterfall jumping, ate at some nice restaurants, went partying and teamed up with the germans I met in the hostel (the Memhölz crew - Phillip, Andreas, Kilian and Natalie), and even managed to drive up dirt paths through the most amazing jungle forest to San Antonio where we got a traditional healing massage and Hilot session.

    There is an indigenous healing and magic tradition which has traveled down through generations from parents to children which makes Siquijor renowned for its magical energy. It is said that a lot of Phillippinos are afraid of Siquijor as people used to come here to consort with witchez to conjure up curses, make a sort of voodoo doll, among other things. The healers collect plants with special properties and make special herb potions and burn lovely smelling incense and make healing smokey fires.
    The full body massage we had was a combination of knot realeasing, descompressing, deep tissue and lymph massage with a special oil (smelled of eucalyptus, menthol, among others) which created blood vessel dilation and tissue stimulation making you feel like the energy is running through you as they swiflty move their strong hands over you giving you a floating and peaceful sensation.
    After the massage you are brought into the healer for a Hilot cleansing session. You sit on a chair as the healer burns his incense and herbs under the chair and moves the smoke around your head and back for about 5-10min.

    We ended up getting along so well with the Memhölz gang that we even talked about possibly doing a group trip exchange, they come to Mallorca and we go to visit them in Memhölz and see Bavarian Castles.
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  • Bohol Touring

    February 10, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ 🌙 24 °C

    After saying goodbye to Siquijor we spent a day touring the Loboc River, Man Made Forest and the famous Chocolate Hills. We treated ourselves to a lush resort with a fabulous group massage. What a fun girly day filled with lots of great conversations and funny moments!!Read more

  • Panglao with the Girls

    February 12, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    After a failed try at partying around Panglao we started the day at a very nice coffee shop and proceded to chilling on Dumaluan Beach in a fabulous resort.
    From here we moved on to the north west of Panglao to another great sunset spot amid a mangrove forest.
    This amazing day was topped off with the choiciest dinner of the trip!
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  • Bye bye Phillippines

    February 14, 2023 on the Philippines ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Cati and Xisca left and Magda and Antonia continued on to discover Moalboal while I decided to stay put in Panglao.

    I spent a day diving on beautiful Balicasag Island and another day planning my next leg of the trip, Indonesia!! It just so happened that my chilling and organising day coincided with yellow and red alert monsoon rains. How nice to hide out at the hostel under a traditional hut lounging on bean bags and hammocks to the soothing sound of rainfall.

    On last day traveling out I was lucky enough to meet up with Magda and Antonia on the flight from Cebu to Manila and spend some of my long day's travel well accompanied.
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  • Bali - Uluwatu

    February 16, 2023 in Indonesia

    My first impression of Bali was it's vitality, the traffic and the busy city feeling compared to my experience in the Phillippines. Driving around on a motorbike is definitely a challenging experience given the chaotic traffic. Also one drives on the left here. There are so many little businesses and things to see while driving around!

    I appreciated from the first moment the westernised cafés, restaurants and the abundance of fruit and vegetables which I so missed over the last few weeks.

    I made my way to Uluwatu Temple to see the sunrise and check out the famous Kecak Dance. Here I bumped into a solo german traveler, Sandra, and her driver, Gusti, who seemed happy fir me to tag along with them.
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  • Bali - Canggu and Seminyak

    February 17, 2023 in Indonesia

    Sandra asked me if I wanted to join her on a day of exploring the hipstery neighbourhoods of Canggu and Seminyak, and as I had no plan whatsoever I decided to join her after a morning session of Iyengar Yoga. What a blissful feeling to be back doing some Iyengar, yet it was quite forgotten after experiencing the crazy traffic in these busy neighbourhoods. Oh the heat, dust, dirt and fumes!!

    We started out having breakfast in a trendy café and visited Echo Beach in Canggu. From here we drove through rice fields and very crowded and small streets to Seminyak beach where we chilled at a resort for a while.
    From here we moved to have a late lunch / early dinner, also in a nice café. Seminyak is decked with stylish shops and art galleries, among cafés, restaurants and bars.
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  • Bali - Uluwatu

    February 19, 2023 in Indonesia

    I went to another yoga class and ended up driving around Uluwatu all day with another person in my yoga class just chilling from café to café, discovering Bingin, Padang-Padang and Uluwatu. It's astonishing how when traveling alone, one never really isn't alone!

    Laura arrived late last night, and given the monsoon rains this morning we treated ourselves to a traditional balinese massage with a milk flower bath afterwards. There are definitely worst ways to escape the rain!
    I finally threw out my plastic bag of a poncho I received as a present at the half-marathon and bought myself a proper asian rain poncho. There will be a photo next time it rains!

    After lunch the sun came out so we made our way to Padang-Padang Beach (it became famous due to a scene in the Julia Roberts film, Eat, Pray, Love) and from there to a nice sunset spot above Suluban Beach. We stopped on one or two resorts along the way, to catch a sneaky look and see if there were nice sunset views.
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  • Flores arrival

    February 20, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After a full day in Bali Laura and I decided to catch a flight out and begin the real adventure in Flores and Komodo. We flew in over the astonishing islands of Komodo into Labuan Bajo which immediately put oir brains to work as to what we could do here.
    After a nice lunch at our hostel and a bit of a rest we set out to walk along the main street and see what they had to offer... we knew there were 2 day / 1 night tours of Komodo National Park, we also knew of the existence of diving liveaboards which seemed especially appealing to us (diving being one of our top priorities) and also we had the contact to a local guide of the island of flores.
    It is currently rainy season here, although it's not raining much, and hence low tourist season. The islands are covered with a lush green blanket thanks to the rains and tourism is quiet as opposed to the busy summer season when the islands are shades of brown and busy with visitors.
    We were directed to the person in charge of one of the only 2 liveaboards available this time and learnt that there were only 2 other guests on the trip and it was starting that same day! So lucky us!!!
    So the next morning bright and early we were taken in a dingy to our boat, the QueenEsia. A boat with lovely cabins (with AC!), 2 dining areas, a rooftop loungimg area, a diving area and 6 crew to cater for our every need. What a luxury!
    Our divemaster for the trip received us, explained the workings of the boat and crew to us and the general diving briefing. We were impressed by how professional the proceedings were!
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  • Diving Komodo 1

    February 21, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Our first dive of our 4 day liveaboard trip (total of 14 dives) was a mindblowing experience. Our divemaster had explained that some divers called this spot "turtle city", and we understood why as from the moment we submerged we could ser turtle upon turtle perched on the amazing coral reef. Considering it is rainy seasom right now and the waves are higher than in dry season we had perfect conditions.
    Not only did we sight countless turtles, but also a black tipped shark, 3 huge cuttle fish and lots of fish.
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  • Diving Komodo 2

    February 21, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Next up was Mawan reef, a renowned Manta spot. The Manta come here to get cleaned by the reef fish, otherwise known as "cleaning station".
    We submerged down into this shallow reef where the Manta drift in the currents and get cleaned. As a diving experience it wasn't the most exciting as we basically just perched on the floor, sometimes hanging on to rocks or coral so as to not get pushed away by the current, and observed these creatures huge wafting over us. It was quite the experience having these 3 to 4m wide creatures swim around us. They have such a gentle flapping movement you almost forget your are underwater and that they're not flying animals.
    We also saw a ribbon eel and other fish, but we were rather awed by the Mantas and couldn't keep our eyes off them.

    Unfortunately, the gopro fogged up on me and the footage I have of this dive isn't as nice as I would have liked it to be.

    After that we were taken to a beautiful beach in between dives on Siaba Kecil island.

    And to our amazement, everytime we emerged from a dive, we were met with either a meal or some sort of snack waiting for us on the boat.
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  • Diving Komodo 3

    February 21, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    The last 2 dives of our first day consisted of a very fun (challenging for some) drift dive along the coast of Siaba Kecil Island and a night dive.

    Komodo National Park scuba diving is renowned among the scuba diving community around the world, and a very characteristic aspect to diving here are the many varied and ever-changing currents. The current can pull you in any direction, even downwards. So it is key to have an knowledgeable, experienced and wise diving guide, as well as have decent diving experience when coming here.

    Lucky for us, not only was our divemaster fabulous, but the otemher 2 guests aboard the boat were ex-dive instructors. So we made up a pretty solid team!!

    Our third dive of the trip was an underwater roller-coaster ride. It felt like riding the east australian current in the film "Finding Nemo". You are drifting so fast it's hard to really take in the teeming life of the coralreefs you are passing by. Good thing our divemaster knows his stuff and exactly where and how we exit the current.
    My most memorable moment was ridung the current alongside a turtle and seeing it continue on the current which was chsnging in an upward direction just in the moment when we exited the stream before finishing the dive.

    After a full day of diving and numerous beach visits we were exhausted. Yet, we had a 4th dive pending, and in the dark! It was a frst for both of us and not one of our favourites. We dove around a little shipwreck and saw a few interedring things... frog fish (which camouflage and are rather ugly), shrimps, etc.

    We fell into bed utterly wrecked as early as we were allowed, with the knowledge of a pre-dawn start the next day to see the sunrise atop Padar Island.
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  • Diving Komodo 4

    February 22, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Second day... we get up at 5am to go to Padar Island and climb up a hill to see the sunrise over the most amazing spectacle of landscape formation.
    After a long time of being awed by the view, and recording a birthday video for mum, we make our way down and prepare for the next dive after second breakfast (while on board we had hobbit-like eating patterns, eating every 1 or 2 hours). I must say that with all that activity and keeping our bodies warm underwater (water temperature ranged feom 26-28 degrees) we were hungry all the time!

    The fifth dive consisted of exploring a series of crevaces and caves as well as oggling at a 40m deep wall reef with the most spectacular array of corals and fish. Also, there was so much going on that one didn't know where to look!
    We spotted some interesting small crestures like nudibranchs and shrimps as well as the odd moray eel.

    Unfortunately, again the camera fogged up. But also, we were so deep that little light bounced off the underwater spectacle in order to catch good enough footage.
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  • Diving Komodo 5

    February 22, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    The next dive spot of our second day was, also off Padar Island, 3 sisters. 3 underwater rock formations which were covered in coral of all shapes and sizes. Navigating the current between each of the 3 rock formations was also a fun experience.
    After our two dives we moved to Komodo island where we sighted 4 of the famous Komodo Dragons. They mostly lie around doing siesta all day long, but we were lucky enough to come upon one who came to a stream to drink, smell a whiff off the air and turn back around. Apparently Komodo Dragons have a very keen sense of smell. Other interesting facts about them are: they bite is deadly as they have over 50 types of bacteria in their mouth causing death by sepsis to their prey; for slow-looking creatures they can be quite fast, up to 20km/h; mating season is july-august where the males fight eachother for the females.
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  • Diving Komodo 6

    February 23, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Our third day diving was full on with 4 dives, but uneventful in comparison to the first two days of amazingness and novelty. We didn't do any fun deift dives or cave diving, just easy reef diving. Nevertheless we sighted turtles, a manta, a wide array of fish, a giant lobster, among other creatures.Read more

  • Diving Komodo 7

    February 24, 2023 in Indonesia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Last day of diving! The dingy had broken down the day before which is why we were jumping in and getting out directly from the big boat, which considering it's Komodo, made navigating the extremely strong currents quite difficult.

    On this first dive of our last day was off the little Batu Bolong island, very renowned among the Komodo Divesited. We jumped in and after a bit our divemaster decided the currents were too strong to dive, but as we looking to signal to the boat it was already on its way away from us. So we created a human life raft and swam as we could against the current to Batu Bolong Island. When we reached the first rocks and clung to them, the current seemed less strong so we submerged anyway. Underwater we saw an explosion of life, we barely moved 10-15m away from the first spot we submerged as the dive consisted of hanging on to coral or rocks and simply looking around. We sighted some turtles which had no problem swiming right up to us, huge fish of all colours and shapes (grojoers, surgeon, angelfish, box fish, etc), and even a black-tipped shark.

    After surfacing the boat was far away from us keeping safely out of the currents. It became quite the hairy adventure staying together and afterwards trying to get back on the boat while navigating such strong currents. I posted a video of the currents as seen from the boat, just to get an idea. The tricky thing is that there are dofferent currents going in all directions.
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