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Camino de Santiago

september - november 2022
  • Levana Fletcher
Et 54-dags eventyr af Levana Læs mere
  • Levana Fletcher

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  • Portugal Portugal
  • Spanien Spanien
  • Frankrig Frankrig
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  • 28,8krejste kilometer
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  • 62fodaftryk
  • 54dage
  • 671fotos
  • 146kan lide
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Nyeste først
  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    1Leaving Nájera 0800
    Silly photo opExodus1Means I've walked over 200 kms!!1Raindrops are falling on my headElevenses at 10:00Drafted these old guys for a whileOnwardThat kind of afternoon, lowering skiesAt the crossroads

    Stage 11: Nájera to Santo Domingo

    24. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    20.9 km/13 miles, about 7 hours, 52°-59°, cool cloudy with intermittent rain showers, got to try the poncho - it works great! 🌧️ Bit of a slog after last good rest stop for elevenses (at 10:00) in Azofra 5.8 km in. Got into an interesting conversation about religion/ spirituality during which a woman from the Netherlands shared that she just found out she has bladder cancer. We all prayed with her before heading back out. You just never know...each day is a gift.
    Mid- back lodged intermittent complaints today- its main demand seems to be "you must stop, sit down and take off the d*** pack at least every two hours!!" Seems reasonable.

    I have thoughts, I am not my thoughts.
    I have sensations, I am not my sensations.
    I have emotions, I am not my emotions.

    I'm experimenting with walking with the Minimal Required Effort (MRE- and/or meals ready to eat). How do I walk in as relaxed and graceful a manner as possible? without extra effort? Resisting or having an emotional reaction to my sensations/experience is extra and adds stress. Where am I clenching? (even my jaw! when I get into grim determination mode). Surrender into the experience, breathe.... experience is experience, suffering is optional. (Hah, great in theory 😂)

    I've decided the poles slow me down sometimes, the effort of swinging them with every stride, so I'm playing around with them. Sometimes I hold them horizontally, or swing them ahead together every few steps (pretty soon I'll be twirling them like batons).

    Got checked into the Cistercian monastery, into my spare but comfortable room, have showered and done laundry and it's 6:00 pm, dinner isn't till 9:00! I'm so hungry I don't know what I'm going to do till then!    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    1Oh my, good morning
    1Second breakfast spot in GrañonNot many distance markers in these parts, just directionalWill it or won't it rainBig trucks, I remember when these would have set a certain boy's heart a pitterpatGreat funky rest stop run on donation2Spotify playlist came in handy for the last few kms1Howdy pilgrim

    Stage 12: Santo Domingo to Belorado

    25. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I'm not sure I can write about yesterday until I recover from today but don't want to get behind so here goes.
    Sunday (yesterday) was a long day- 22.9 km/14.2 miles, 43°-59°, took me about 8 hours because I stopped every chance I got for food, coffee, water or just to sit down and rest for a few minutes, to appease the grumbling ranks. Feet were expressing doubts about the current regimen but were somewhat reassured by the frequent breaks and a massage with a sample Lush cream bar that has survived in the toiletry kit. Arrived about 5:00 pm to the only place I could find a reservation in Belarado, the Albergue Cuatro Cantones, 4 floors of dorm rooms, a restaurant and a hang out lounge. Was in a bunk room with 5 other people, thankfully in a bottom bunk. Shower room was decent and they washed and dried my clothes for some extra euros. Dinner was great, the kitchen was a well oiled machine cranking out starters, main course and dessert for maybe 80 people? Rioja wine flowed freely. Then the futile attempt to get any sleep ensued, even with ear plugs. I am now convinced I need private accommodations the rest of the way, because without the restorative power of sleep, I won't be able to complete this pilgrimage. Decided on an easy day to Villafranca de Montes de Oca tomorrow, only 11.9 km/7.5 miles.Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Leaving Belarado
    Bed's eye view of apartment

    Stage 13: Belorado to Villafranca

    26. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    So I made it the 11.9 km/7.5 miles to Villafranca de Montes de Oca today, just barely- left hip has resigned, mid back is sulking and feet aren't talking to me. It took me about 4 hours in 44°-56°, shuffling and lurching like the walking dead. I need another layer for these cool mornings, a thin fleece or windbreaker. We are staying in bed this afternoon in my cute little studio apartment (maid service is lacking, had to make my own cup of tea.) Will venture out after siesta in search of dinner. Self administered Reiki for half an hour got left hip to calm down, mid back and feet have agreed to only minimally required effort the rest of the day. Another relatively easy day planned for tomorrow, 18.3km/11.4 miles to Atapuerca.

    P.S. Beyond the whinging, I keep coming back to the central reason for this trek- spiritual pilgrimage. I've wondered if I'm going to be like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz and find that I've had what I've been searching for within me all along. Even so, there is value in making the journey, in what I discover about myself, other people, the world, God. Most days I remember to touch base with Hour by Hour and The Pilgrim's Devotional, conveniently loaded in the Kindle app on my phone. And I like to think the handmade (by Susan Chloupek) Anglican rosary I'm carrying in a pouch near my heart is praying itself, like a Tibetan prayer flag in the wind, with every step. 🙏♥️    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Leaving Villafranca 0800
    Into the woodsFun fact- vehicles can appear at any timeMonument to people who died in Spanish civil warRoadside shrineFunky donativo rest stop in the woods with great tunesSan Juan de Ortega church1Follow the yellow brick roadCan you find the yellow arrow2.2 km equals half a legua, you know what they say about that last half legua...Cozy room in casa rural El Pesebre

    Stage 14: Villafranca to Atapuerca

    27. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    18.3 km/11.4 miles, 46°-60°, about 6 hours
    After 10 hours of sleep, a good dinner and breakfast at the big albergue/hotel up the hill, with the only restaurant in town, all players on Team Levana's Physical Being were back on board today. "All we ask for is deep, restoratative rest every night, adequate fuel and hydration and we will do this thing you seem to really want to do." OK, thanks team, message received, I promise to be a better team leader.

    A couple days ago, at the last 5 km into Belorado I think, I stopped at a mini-mart on the side of the road because it had a large WC Publico sign, which you never see (it was clean and had toilet paper! a gift from God). There was a young woman about my daughter's age with her feet up airing, who looked to be in some discomfort. Turns out, she was from Seattle and considering nursing as a career! And she had developed blisters. That's why I've been carrying that blister kit! We shared some potato chips (salt) and an Orange Kas (sugar) an orange soda made with real OJ that's not too sweet, and I was able to fix her up with moleskin. She took off again at a blistering (literally!) pace with a gargantuan pack. I haven't seen her since. God bless and keep her.

    When younger folks go blasting past me, I mentally pat them and think "that's nice dear, good luck with that" in a kind, not snarky way, really! I give them a smile and a "buen Camino!" then resume my slow and steady pace after getting ruffled by their wake. I dimly remember always being in a rush in my younger years, always hurrying to get somewhere or worrying about being late for something. What was I hurrying toward? Success? Happiness? Just trying to get it right- the project of adulting in this modern world. I remember in my 40s having the sensation of having reached the top of the rollercoaster ride, that I was looking toward the end rather than the middle, and thinking "I must have arrived at whatever I thought I was striving for when I was younger without noticing!" I wonder if our bodies slow down naturally as we age to ease us into eldering. As my time in this earthly life shortens I feel the desire to slow down and savor the time I have left. I'm grateful for this opportunity to slow down even more and appreciate this precious NOW. 🐢    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Helpful map from French folks showing the alternative path
    Leaving Atapuerca 0800Wait, this is the path??Thank God we made it up that rockpileI think that's Burgos in the distanceBeautiful little flowers sprouting out of the rocksRefueling stop 10:00Ultra modern hotel, I'm too grubby to sit on that bedView from cute glassed in balconyTasty bar snacks for late lunch

    Stage 15: Atapuerco to Burgos

    28. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    About 20 km/12.4 miles, 40°-62°, about 6 hours
    Left Atapuerca 0800 in 40° with a brisk headwind, all layers on, wearing my puffy jacket tied around my neck/shoulders like a muffler/cape. Time to dig out the gloves and wool buff from the depths of the big pack. There are shopping opportunities in Burgos! city of about 200,000 with a big Decathalon store. I took the alternative path (probably longer) into the city that bypasses the main industrial areas and comes in along the river and a many miles long beautiful park with nary a restroom in sight! The last 3 miles I was walking double time, made it to the hotel Rimbombin in the center of the old town, not far from the cathedral, without an accident. Next- shower, laundry and food, in that order. I'll be here 2 nights- luuuxery!
    Folks who use tracking apps say the guidebook distances are usually short by at least 10% but I haven't found one that doesn't use up phone battery, any suggestions?    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Burgos cathedral
    He looks as tired as I feel at the end of a day of walkingThat's one classy serving of fizzy waterMore tasty bar snacks for lunchGot myself some lightweight sneaks and cute socks, no more cold feet!Giant topiary pilgrim near Museum of Human Evolution2Inside museumHe was not messing aroundRiver park in the middle of the cityThe mighty warrior

    Rest day in Burgos

    29. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Having fun on my rest day, it's rainy and cool, good day to be taking it easy. I went to the cathedral yesterday afternoon but it was so huge and elaborate I could hardly take it in, more like visiting a museum than a working church. Took a taxi the 1.8 miles to the Decathalon store this morning as my legs were still feeling a little stumpy, got a windbreaker, some heavier pants (have been wearing a super lightweight, quick drying pair) and some thin socks to wear with my sandals in the evening- pilgrim chic!
    Walked back to town to remind the team we'll be doing this again tomorrow and not to get complacent. This afternoon I plan to go to the Human Evolution Museum, then wander around some more and window shop.    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Pilgrim cluster leaving Burgos 0800
    The sun came out about noonProof of progress, 300 km/186 miSmall town with beautiful muralsHornillos in the distance

    Stage 16: Burgos to Hornillos

    30. september 2022, Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    20.9 km/13 mi, 45°-60°, about 6 hours? wait how is that possible? I was so slow today, Tortuga was in -1 gear, old people with full packs were chugging past me. It was a long, slow, cold, grumpy slog out of Burgos, nothing was open as I was leaving. Who knew I could walk seven miles before coffee?? Luckily no one tried to talk to me. I'm beginning to think it's harder to come back after a rest day. I made it to Hornillos del Camino, where I had not been able to find lodging, and someone from the hotel I did book a room in 3 miles away came to pick me up, they will deposit me back on the trail in the morning. So it was a lot of praying, breathing and putting one foot in front of the other today. What else are ya gonna do?Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Leaving Hornillos 0830, 39°
    5 km to Hontanas, that's a walk around GreenlakeElevenses in HontanasSuch a warm, welcoming church in Hontanas2Space for reflection, worship and candles♥️OnwardEntering the meseta- not entirely flat...yetPerfect fall day, 60° with mild breezeLong tree lined avenueTrail goes through ruined monasteryCasteojeriz in distance- if my hotel is up there we've got a problem1They always seem to do it...1Gorgeous hotel room at Quinta San FranciscoGardensCourtyard, the lounger I'm in is so comfortable I may never move againRemains of monastery2I may have died and gone to heaven

    Stage 17: Hornillos to Castrojeriz

    1. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    20 km/ 12.4 mi, 39°-69°, about 5.5 hours. My slow must be getting faster. Beautiful fall day entering the meseta- the high central plain. All systems go, chugging along, only minor random complaints from the team.
    Gotta get this breakfast and dinner thing worked out. When breakfast is offered it's usually just coffee and bread, which doesn't get me far. Sometimes the first town with food options isn't for several miles and I'm crashing and burning by then. Dinner, when served early for pilgrims, is at 7:30, otherwise not till 8:30-9:00. Have to watch for grocery stores to stock up on sustaining snacks.
    Tonight I'm staying in a beautiful hotel built on the site of a Franciscan monastery. It's so lovely I may not want to leave, the gardens are gorgeous and full of scented herbs like rosemary, lavender and mint. Heavenly!    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago

    Random insights

    1. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    When you're walking for 6-8 hours a day, you have a lot of time to think...

    One of the main things I've gotten from walking the Camino so far is being happy with going at my own pace. Ta-dah! Isn't that a great metaphor for life?? I could elaborate on that but it's siesta time....

    We're all walking the Way. I feel kinship with all who have walked, are walking now and will walk, we're all walking together on this journey of earthly life, learning how to love. We feel ripples from the past and are sending ripples into the future. Buen Camino! OK, like that Edie Brickell song "shove me into shallow water, before I get too deep" and Paul Simon (who she happens to be married to btw) " I know what I know, I'll sing what I said, we come and we go, that's a thing that I keep in the back of my head..."    Læs mere

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  • Levana FletcherRejsendeCamino de Santiago
    Leaving Quinta San Francisco Hotel, Casteojeriz 0830, 43°
    And up we goLooking back to CasteojerizAnd down we goAnd the flat part beginsThe endurance part of the afternoon begins- low gear/ trance zoneNearing Fromista1Crossing the canal

    Stage 18: Castrojeriz to Fromista

    2. oktober 2022, Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    24.9 km/15.4 miles, 43°-78°, about 8 hours
    Long day today, not much shade, water or places to stop with any services open. The last 3.5 miles were a bit of a struggle as right shin became quite cranky but at least it was along a canal and shaded by trees. It was hard to leave the beautiful hotel in Casteojeriz this morning but onward we must go. Ran into 2 brothers from Australia who I hadn't seen since way back before Pamplona. They had been enjoying a rest day here and we had a pleasant dinner in the restaurant here at Hotel Rural Oasibeth with a woman from Utah I met last night. I love the ever morphing Camino family that develops along the way, the comradery and mutual support.
    There was a long stretch today of review of relationships past and present (they say this middle third stage on the meseta is the mental stage after the physical break-in of the first stage) and intense gratitude for the people and experiences in my life. And every time something got to a seemingly unbearable point there was some kind of relief that appeared- a bit of shade, a cool breeze, a friendly word from a passing Pilgrim, a lovely memory, a period of physical ease when no body part was complaining. I keep finding that I can go farther than I think I can, that I can draw on deep resources when I need to. Intense gratitude!    Læs mere

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