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Camino de Santiago
  • Levana Fletcher
  • Levana Fletcher

Camino de Santiago

A 54-day adventure by Levana Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 13, 2022
    Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Boots and backpack ready to go
    Park dedicated to world explorersHôtel Observatoire Luxembourg

    Pilgrim has landed

    August 31, 2022 in France ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Pre- Camino
    Arrived Paris this morning! There were a few other peregrinos on the same flight, you can tell them by the yellow arrow patches on their backpacks. Got through customs and baggage claim, found the RER B train and got off at Luxembourg station, too early to check into darling Hotel Observatoire so wandered around and found a baguette sandwich to eat in a park.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Carnavalet
    Old restaurant signsThe justice elmSeriously bad hair dayThe mighty stagBlack kitty (like mine♥️)Place des Vosges, MaraisOpera House, Place de la BastillePicasso museumPicassoStreet scene, notice the coffee sign1Funky mural

    More Paris wandering

    September 2, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Still in a jet lagged daze, went to two museums I haven't been to before, the Musée Histoire de Paris Carnavalet (free!) and the Musée National Picasso, both in the Marais district.

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Even the car park is beautiful
    My front door, next to truffles and foie gras storeApartment interiorMorning view and cathedral bellsLa grande armoireL'escalier

    Dordogne

    September 3, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    Next leg of Pre- Camino journey! Arrived Bordeaux yesterday by high speed train from Montparnasse station, managed to drive the mini manual transmission rental car here to Sarlat. The apartment is right in the heart of the Medieval village in a tower, around the corner from Cathédrale Saint Sacerdos, whose ringing bells I'm listening to now. Finally slept last night!Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Cathédrale Saint Sacerdos
    Cathedral interiorThis light is my prayerLanterne des Morts

    Easy Sarlat Sunday

    September 4, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Feels like my body finally arrived! After a good long sleep, had a leisurely morning doing housekeeping tasks like laundry, then ventured out. Visited the cathedral and lit a candle with prayers for everything and everybody. Many things are closed on Sunday but found the essentials- coffee, groceries and ice cream! Caught an organ concert at the cathedral, perfect cap to the day. Tomorrow to Lascaux!Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    The teenagers who discovered the cave in 1940
    The exhibition complex, the hill behind is location of original caveReplica in museumMeticulously recreatedPainting tools

    Lascaux visit

    September 5, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Decided to do the one big sightseeing thing early, hadn't been to Lascaux yet so today was the day. Mel and I have been to other sites on previous visits- Rouffignac, Font-de-Gaume and La Roque St-Christophe. Reserved an English tour online (Rick Steves is so helpful!) and it was well worth it. Then roamed the museum and gift shop (of course) and had a lovely lunch on the terrace. Now hiding out back in the apartment in the relative cool, 87° in the shade out there. The rest of the week I'll take it easy, maybe visit some favorite nearby sites- Domme, La Roque-Gageac, Beynac and Castelnaud, catch the Wednesday market here in Sarlat. This is a restful interlude, gathering strength for what's coming.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Seven ton doors on covered market, Sarlat
    All geese, all the timeLa Bastide de Domme, fortified hill townEglise de Notre Dame de l'Assomption Church, Domme2Domme church interiorGuard me my God, I have made you my refuge Psalm 25View from the esplanadeThis could be a quilt pattern1Love the tree of life motifPocket park with old wellLa Roque-Gageac1Église Notre-Dame de La Roque-GageacLa Roque-Gageac church interiorMary of the parking lot

    Dordogne wanderings

    September 6, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Must have rained during the night- the cobblestones were damp this morning. Wandered through town, mailed postcards then drove to Domme and La Roque-Gageac to take in the sights. Another 90° day

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Market day set up @ 0630
    1Et voilàIt's all about the goose hereLa source, protected by the Virgin Mary, used to be the town's water sourceTown monument to martyrs of WW21Little library, I love this town1There is hardly ever no one standing in front of my door2Market day score, the baguette is still warm! Apple tart in box1500, 3:00 pm, back to normal, cooler today!Helpful hintsLe traiteur, source of all good things for dinner for oneAbout half what a restaurant meal would cost. I am going to treat myself my last night here.

    Sarlat Market day

    September 7, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Preparations began in the wee hours, by 0630 trucks were unloading and setting up

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Castelnaud- "Way up on the hill...." sing it with me now
    1Well in central courtyard, 150 ft deepTrebuchet1More mithril1Corner shrineTwo roads diverged in a wood and I...found the way back to the car park1Fortification before next castleBeynac- Yep, it's also way up on a hill1House Mel and I stayed in once next to castle wall

    A tale of two castles

    September 8, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    Last day of wandering around as tomorrow will be devoted to preparing for the next phase of the journey. Today I visited Château de Castelnaud et la Musée de la Guerre au Moyen Age, and the Château de Beynac, two rivals during the 100 Year's War on opposite sides of the Dordogne river. Castelnaud was usually controlled by the English, Beynac by the French, and they're both "way up on the hill where they do do the boogie" (my favorite song by John Hartford). "Every time they boogie well it gives me a thrill, they always seem to do it way up on a hill".Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Pre-launch jitters

    September 9, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    As this app is fond of telling me, my next trip starts in 4 days! Referring to my anticipated date of actually setting foot on the Camino, Tuesday September 13. This cozy interlude in the darling apartment on the square in Sarlat, which has come to feel like home, will end tomorrow. Saturday is the big market day so I'm going to try to get out of town early to beat the traffic congestion, then will take the faster toll roads back to Bordeaux, return the rental car and stay one night in a hotel near the train station. Then Sunday, an early train to St Jean Pied de Port, the portal for the Camino Francés. There I will get my pilgrim credenciel, which I will get stamped all along the Way, and I will ship the suitcase ahead to Santiago. Thereafter, I will be living solely out of the backpack for 35+ days, however long it takes me to reach Santiago. No pictures today unless of the contents of the backpack strewn on the bed while I determine if there's anything I can eliminate, every ounce counts! Laundry, post office, visit to the cathedral and an early night. Bon courage!
    Oh and long live the King!    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Addendum

    September 9, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Completion successful at la Poste, that's always an adventure- sending stuff home and doing the customs declaration, have to get everything signed, sealed and delivered in quadruplicate. Laundry is drying, the sun is coming out, time to just enjoy my last afternoon in Sarlat.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    One more candle for the road- Sacred Heart of Jesus, I put my faith in you
    Good bye to la petite voitureBordeaux train station1Lemon ice, in a lemon shellVertigo1Boil your own egg for breakfastBayonne train stationSmall 2 car train to St JeanWhew, I'm on the right trainSigns are in French and BasqueThey always seem to do it...way up on a hill...1Ooh what's in here...1So much coolerThe moat?They built a wallThe King's Gate🥳View of St Jean

    Bordeaux to St Jean Pied de Porte

    September 11, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Left Sarlat yesterday (only yesterday??) in the early morning as the market was starting...made it to Bordeaux and returned the rental car a little late after finding a gas station and the figuring out how to refuel shenanigans. Stayed in a basic hotel right across the road from the train station, had a lovely late lunch in the restaurant downstairs (really good roast chicken with gravy 😋, salad and potatoes, lemon ice for dessert). After a quick early breakfast, popped across the road and found my train (always somewhat harrowing as the destination listed is not always where you're going and they don't announce the track till 20 minutes before departure). Arrived in St Jean after a change in Bayonne, too early to check in so hiked up to the Citadelle and looked around town, found the Pilgrim office where I'll register Tuesday morning, had ice cream. It's 94°. Now ensconced in beautiful Maison E. Bernat, with AC and wifi! ♥️Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Looking up Rue de la Citadelle toward pilgrim office
    1Looking down rue de la Citadelle, the route out of town to begin the CaminoQueue at the pilgrim officeWe're in the territory of Navarre, Basque country

    Pilgrim prep

    September 11, 2022 in France ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    Visited the Pilgrim office today after all, spoke to a very kind volunteer named Florence who is doing a one week stint, processing 300-400 pilgrims a day, wait she might have said thousand, not sure, her first language is French. Got my credential stamped (got a little emotional) and some info on stages- elevation and distance, and refuges and albergues along the way. Also the requisite pilgrim identifier which I will have to figure out how to attach to the backpack. I'm shipping the suitcase I've been using up to now, and will use for the 2 weeks in Portugal after the Camino, ahead to Santiago tomorrow morning, then commences living solely out of the backpack for several weeks. Brings to mind George Carlin's routine about our "Stuff"....Google itRead more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    1Oh sure, I'm game, it's only 80° at the moment
    All along the watchtower...Church of Our Lady of the End of the Bridge1Alfresco lunch in hotel backyardPilgrims follow waymarkers like this all along the WayGo thatawayI'll get to Roncesvalles (Spanish) Monastery the second day2La Porte d'Espagne, pointed toward SpainLooking back down toward the church

    Last day in St Jean

    September 12, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    I'm about as ready as I'll ever be...putzed around in the morning to beat the heat- snacks✔️ postcards mailed✔️ water system set up✔️. Wandered around the town and scouted out the route for tomorrow morning, visited the church. Plan to hit the trail by 0800, only going to Refuge Orisson tomorrow, about 8 km with 800 m elevation gain, trying to ease into this. I know the first week or two will be the break in period while my body gets used to carrying the pack every day.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Bless these feet (and weird but wonderful toe socks) and all their goings out and comings in.
    And it begins, Pilgrim from SF going about my speed...slowThe pass is open, good signThey lied, it was WAY farther than 2 kmThe oasis1View from bunk room

    First stage complete

    September 13, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Made it to Refuge Orisson, which feels like a minor miracle. OK I trained some for this before I left but evidently not enough for 8 km straight up with a 15 lb pack (most be more with water). So glad I made this reservation back in March, don't think I could have made the whole 25 km to Roncesvalles on the first day. So thankful it is cooler! Only 75° with intermittent refreshing sprinkles. Settled into the bunk room with 8 other people (silently betting on who the snorers are going to be, I have ear plugs!) Looking forward to the communal pilgrim dinner tonight. The idea of having my bag transported ahead has an appeal but I'm going to try to stick it out to Pamplona and hope I toughen up!Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Early morning, pilgrims abustle
    0730, ready to go?1Pre-sunriseAnd we're offSay what??I'm ready for my close-up2GodsendProof of progressWoodsy respiteEmergency shelterTop of the pass, what goes up must come down, beginning of descentRoncesvalles way down in the valleyRoncesvalles

    Stage 2: Orisson to Roncesvalles

    September 14, 2022 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Yesterday kicked my butt. So did today for different reasons but we'll get to that later. Eleven miles and I don't even want to know the elevation gain, up and over Col Lepoeder pass 1432 m, the Napoleon route over the Pyrenees into Spain. Hardest part was standing in line for an hour to check in when I got there, was about to keel over. But after getting out of the boots, showering and handing my reeking sweat drenched clothing over to volunteers who washed and dried it (tears of joy!) I revived enough to enjoy the communal pilgrim dinner. Everything ached though, had to take naproxen so I could fall asleep. Had 3 German bunkmates in my cubicle who were so chill and packed so minimally I was in awe. After the amazing restorative power of sleep, was actually able to get up, put the boots back on, shoulder the pack and head out again by 0800 after breakfast. Onward to Zubiri.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Church at Roncesvalles
    13Optimistic much?1Burguete in the early morningAnother roadside attractionRocky descent to Zubiri3Most lovely salad I've ever seen or eaten

    Stage 3: Roncesvalles to Zubiri

    September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    Before I pass out from exhaustion and have good wifi will post briefly about today. Just under fourteen miles, which I think is the longest I have ever walked with a pack, mostly downhill which is hard in its own right. Stopped 3 times, once to take off socks and boots and let them air out and dry in the sun. First official cafe con leche, having to switch my brain from French to Spanish. Many meditations on the nature of suffering. Arrived at the beautiful Albergue Suseia after 8 hours, too tired to move but not as beat up feeling as yesterday, could this be progress??Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Leaving the wonderful Albergue Suseia at 0730
    Really?? There was a lot of this today, going up and down1Beautiful riverside stop for elevenses1Fresh squoze OJ and spinach "tortilla" like a cheesy pie with potatoes and veggiesFeets don't fail me nowI sure hope that's Pamplona (it's a suburb)I don't believe in kilometers, kilometers are imaginaryWhat a concept

    Stage 4: Zubiri to Pamplona

    September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Just when I thought I was getting the hang of this, when I could feel my body transitioning from "what are you, nuts?? didn't we just do this yesterday??" to "oh, so this is what we're doing every day now? hmm...well ok...but on these terms: keep me hydrated, give me fuel and rest every couple hours". I thought we had a deal. And the pack was beginning to become background sometimes instead of always being foreground. Got to Pamplona today after 13 miles and 8 hours and my whole body hurts. The last I don't know how many miles or kilometers was on pavement so that probably had a lot to do with it. I had worked out a whole philosophical approach to dealing with the physical challenge and discomfort but.... I'm done. With carrying the fully loaded pack every day. Hobbled to a Decathalon sporting goods store a few blocks from my hotel and got a perfectly serviceable daypack for 19€. I have a rest day here tomorrow and one more night, then Sunday will walk to Obanos, a mere 21.5 kilometers, with only the basics in the daypack and have the backpack transported ahead. I am at peace with this decision.Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Quite the posh breakfast buffet
    The fortress of impenetrable darknessLooking up through the Portal de FranciaPuente de la MagdalenaRiverside parkSanta Maria la Real CathedralCathedral interiorSide chapelBlack Madonna1String quartet rehearsingElevensesThe Ways to goSan Saturnino Church1Church interiorElectric candles, less mess!Organist rehearsingEncouraging words at the Ultreia center

    Pamplona rest day

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    After 10 hours of sleep and an ample breakfast, I'm feeling human again. I went back to the entrance into the city over the Puente de la Magdalena and through the Portal de Francia, which I was too dead tired to even see yesterday. It was by sheer power of will that I made it up that last climb through the fortress into the old city, just a blind slog. It was only 56° this morning, first taste of cooler fall temps to come. I wandered around the city, ducking into churches and happening upon some amazing music. Also visited the Ultreia Interpretive Center to learn about how the history of this region is tied to the Camino de Santiago. Also scouted out the route out of town and packed the daypack. It will be a relief to walk lighter tomorrow!Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler

    Random musings

    September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    "The Road goes ever on and on,
    Down from the door where it began.
    Now far ahead the road has gone,
    And I must follow, if I can
    Pursuing it with eager feet,
    Until it joins some larger way
    Where many paths and errands meet.
    And whither then? I cannot say"

    Bilbo Baggins, J.R.R. Tolkien

    I first read that when I was 13, the most epic of pilgrimage tales, and it took root in my heart and imagination. The frequent conversation starter on the trail is "why are you walking the Camino?" I haven't had a ready answer for that. It's complicated. To be determined. It's said that the first part of the Camino is physical, the second is mental, and the third is spiritual. So far, it has been a walking meditation of breath, prayer, bodily sensations, taking in the surroundings and relating to others in a new way. It's like you're suddenly in an instant community of people all doing the same thing, open to sharing and supporting each other. It immediately gets deep and real when you talk with people. At the pilgrim supper the first night at Orisson, when we went around and introduced ourselves, said where we're from and why we're walking the Camino, I said "for discovery". That'll have to do. And I've only just begun...    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Entering a different kind of country
    The road goes ever onCan barely see the wind turbines up on the ridge1Alto de Perdon1Where the way of the wind meets the way of the starsA strange little stone henge on the way downDozens of rock cairnsMore imaginary kilometers1Roadside shrine

    Stage 5: Pamplona to Obanos

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    After two nights of luuuxery (does no one get my Money Python references??) I walked out of Pamplona early-ish at 0800 in 50°, past the Citadel, University and public gardens in a bit of a daze because I had to focus on remembering/relearning how to walk. Felt like a jumble of disjointed parts that weren't entirely cooperating with each other, like my hip joints belong to somebody else. I seem to have developed this wide, rolling gait, the knees aren't sure what's up with that. I didn't take many pictures today because I was busy renegotiating the deal with my body about what we're up to. It took a fair amount of concentration just to propel myself forward.

    So this is the physical shakedown and restructuring, getting me fit for purpose. Got it. Curious what the new configuration will feel like. In the meantime, steady as she goes. I am the Tortoise. 🐢

    Made it up and over the Alto de Perdón and arrived in Obanos, about 13 miles, at the charming Casa Raichu. Laundry is being done, dinner at 7:00, life is good.    Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    Sunset from my room in Obanos last night
    Sunrise this morningChurch in ObanosMorning kittyWith St James the pilgrimSecond coffee in cute little-bit-of-everything cafe bar storeLeaving Puente la ReinaLooking back at Puente la ReinaLentil vegetable soup for lunch in CirauquiAt 2:00, in the heat of the day 🤪

    Stage 6: Obanos to Estella

    September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    15 miles in 9.5 hours, from 53° to 84°. Having the lighter pack helped but I'm still as slow as molasses.
    News flash- all bodily departments seem to have a working relationship today (hips and knees are still hammering out the fine points of the contract but all in all, everyone is on speaking terms), yay 😊 go team! "this is how we do it 🎶!"Read more

  • Levana FletcherCamino de SantiagoTraveler
    An outward and visible sign...
    2

    The Sacred and the Profane

    September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The Way is always present and apparent if I just know where to look. And if I get lost it's ok to ask for directions, repent and return...
    We're all on the Way
    All ways converge into One

    I smell like a walking advertisement for the Spanish version of Tide. This from an avowed unscented laundry soap user at home. But I can't tell you what it means to have someone wash my clothes for me, that doesn't even happen at home! I'm willing to smell like laundry detergent rather than rancid sweat!Read more

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