• Levana Fletcher
  • Levana Fletcher

Scotland

Textiles, trekking and sacred sites Read more
  • Trip start
    May 15, 2026

    Ready to go!

    May 15 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Bags zipped waiting by the door

  • Getting over jet lag

    May 16 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Arrived yesterday on Aer Lingus via Dublin, plane seats seem to have shrunk! There were the requisite number of screaming babies and someone hacking up a lung behind me for 8 hours but with new earbuds I managed to doze for a few hours.
    Wandered around today, down the Royal Mile surprisingly mobbed with tourists even in mid-May, toured the exhibit at the King's Gallery at Holyrood, the palace itself is closed due to some important person being in residence.
    Found Ginger Twist yarn shop and Edinburgh Fabrics on my Textile Tour map, like wandering through my version of heaven.
    Too gobsmacked and jetlagged to take many pictures, somehow didn't want to be an obvious tourist, want to pretend I live here. It feels strange and natural to be here again, as Google photos recently reminded me Mel and I were here in 2018.
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  • Day 3 Edinburgh

    May 18 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Oh my, the jet lag hit harder today but managed to trudge out through wind, rain, hail and intermittent sun breaks. Found 2 more yarn and textiles places, took a break in a Starbucks on the Royal Mile, wandered through the National Galleries, had to duck into Marks & Sparks during a downpour on the way back and buy an umbrella.
    Attended a beautiful, uplifting evensong service last night at St John's Scottish Episcopal Church 2 blocks from where I'm staying, using the language of the 1549 first Book of Common Prayer, haven't heard any of that in a long time.
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  • Day 4 Edinburgh/Linlithgow

    May 19 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Took a short train ride to Linlithgow this morning to visit with my friend Rachel who I know from EfM in Seattle, she moved back to Scotland a few years ago, her husband is from Glasgow. So good to see her! We had a yummy nosh and a ramble through historic St Michael's Church and Linlithgow Palace where Mary Queen of Scots was born, and I found some gorgeous fabric in an honest to God fabric store! They are a dying breed in Seattle. Then came back and wandered around the New Town, toured the Portrait Gallery (museums are free!), found a Cornish pasty to heat up for dinner, now prostrate on the couch under a Scottish wool blanket.
    Supposed to get warmer next few days...
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  • Day 5 Dundee/St Andrew's

    May 20 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Successful navigation day! Took another marvelous ScotRail train to Dundee and toured the amazing Dundee V&A Museum of Design, the most strikingly impressive museum I have ever been in. There is a small but gorgeously curated permanent exhibit tracing the history of design in Scotland, the current temporary exhibit is 'Catwalk' about the evolution of fashion shows and what goes into putting them on.
    The cafe had stunning views through huge windows letting the ever-changing light in (the skies are always shifting through moody modulations). Delicious food was served on local ceramics. Had to drag myself out of there to go check out the Contemporary Arts Center nearby, didn't make it to Verdant Works- a refurbished 19th century textile mill. It was another mile walk (have to come back!). Instead went to find the bus station to get to St Andrew's, about a half hour ride. There, I retraced the route that pilgrims took to the cathedral, in ruins since the Reformation. This was once one of the most popular pilgrimage destinations in Europe after Santiago. Legend had it that some of the relics of St Andrew were brought here by St Rule from Greece but whatever (or whoever) was in the reliquary was scattered in 1559.
    Then back 'home' to Edinburgh by bus to Leuchars and train the rest of the way. It got up to 61° today with only a few sprinkles.
    Tomorrow the plan is to take the Water of Leith walkway to Leith, starting at Dean Village, about 3.5 miles, can take the tram back!
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  • Day 6 Edinburgh

    May 21 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Took it easy today, did laundry and reorganized, then took a leisurely stroll through the old town and finally got into St Giles Cathedral which was not so mobbed. Did some gift shopping, mailed postcards, had a delicious lunch in the National Museum cafe and wandered through a small fraction of its exhibits, mainly Fashion & Design and Science & Technology, then hit the Sainsbury local on the way home, a lovely day. Tomorrow I'm going to try for the Water of Leith walkway.Read more

  • Day 7 Edinburgh/Water of Leith

    May 22 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Lovely warm partly sunny day, up to 68°. Walked to Dean Village just a little west of the west end, it used to be a mill town on the Water of Leith. Then ambled north to Stockbridge for a detour to the Royal Botanical Garden before continuing up to Leith, a port town where the Royal Yacht Britannia is moored. Skipped a tour of the yacht to wander around before taking the tram back to St Andrew's square in the new town, then slowly strolled through Princes Street gardens back to the west end. Also went to investigate a huge church I spotted this morning - St Mary's Scottish Episcopal Cathedral, built in 1879 so the Anglicans would have a cathedral to worship in. St Giles had become Presbyterian as the national church of Scotland after the Reformation.Read more

  • Day 8 Killin

    May 23 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Left the lovely Alva St flat in Edinburgh this morning at 10:30 when driver Iain picked me up and we drove to the village of Killin, about two hours going through Stirling. He has lived here all his life and is a fount of knowledge, gave me an orientation to the area and suggestions for local hikes. I'm now installed in the comfy Wee Dalerb Cottage after a run for groceries, reconnoiter of the village and delicious lunch at The River Inn Greek restaurant. The river Dochart runs past the bottom of the garden and there are bird feeders outside the kitchen windows. Hoping to find a local church to attend Pentecost service tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 9 Killin

    May 23 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Getting caught up for yesterday Pentecost Sunday May 25, 2026.
    A rest day, after attending church at the local Church of Scotland (Presbyterian) which was like Morning Prayer led by a lay reader, with recorded music and lyrics projected on a screen. They were very friendly and welcoming at the coffee hour afterward, during the prayers of the people we turned our chairs into groups of 3-4 to share. They have a priest that rotates between 3 village churches, they get him twice a month.
    The small Episcopal church in town has been closed for a while, a wee ramshackle looking place of corrugated steel.
    Wandered around the village scoping out possible hikes, had lunch at the restaurant at the west end of the wee bridge into town overlooking the Falls of Dochart, then had a quiet afternoon at the cottage reading, napping, crocheting and drinking tea. Bliss
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  • Day 10 Killin/Callander

    May 25 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Took the bus to Callander today, the entry to Trossachs National Park. It's a bank holiday like our Memorial Day weekend and gorgeous weather so lots of folks out. Did some gift shopping and walked by the river, chatted with the volunteers at the Visitor Center and managed to have a Scottish breakfast, tea and scone and ice cream before heading back. Met a couple who are on a Macs Adventures walking tour, going town to town for 2 weeks, sounds worth looking into.Read more

  • Day 11 Killin

    May 26 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After a good night's sleep I can describe the day yesterday Tuesday May 26. I hiked up the small mountain above town starting from Breadalbane Park. It was harder than I thought it was going to be. The trail went straight up rather than switch backing. The day was gorgeous- sunny and 70°. I had bought a short sleeved tee shirt at the Outdoor Store and sun cream at the chemist's before starting up, would have been sweltering in my long sleeve smart wool (who knew there would be a heat wave in Scotland?).
    Slow and steady is my motto 🐢so I plodded up, thankfully a young family on holiday showed up right when I couldn't figure out a complicated 2 step gate lock. Then they vanished, ah to be that energetic! I am facing the fact that I can't just scramble up mountains as agilely as I once did! Upward and onward, stopping every 10 steps or so to catch my breath and take in the stunning views. Came to the first summit in a saddle before the highest rocky outcrop, found a rock to lean against and had a snack. Decided to try for the higher summit and trudged on, the trail becoming fainter. Got to just below the rocky summit, saw the young family perched up there sunning, decided to let them have it. Took in the view for a while and started down.
    Lost the trail entirely and commenced on a 2 hour overland adventure of bushwhacking my way through bracken and bog, surprising a few sheep. Kept thinking- the town is just down there, I can see it! Kept heading in a downhill direction and eventually found a farm track and came out .6 miles east of town, a fairly easy walk back. It was interesting to get so lost on what seemed like a pretty straightforward short hike! But my rudimentary navigation skills came to the rescue.
    Staggered into a cafe in town for a cold beer, soup and toastie, then home for a shower and a rest.
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  • Day 12 Crannog Centre/Pitlochry/Glen Lyon

    May 27 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Yesterday Wednesday May 27, driver Iain drove me to the Crannog Centre near Kenmore, about 16 miles from Killin, and I appreciated again that I didn't rent a car and try to drive myself around out here. The roads are narrow and windy, often one lane. If you meet someone coming the other way you have to skooch over onto the verge or back up to a passing place. Killin is at the west end of Loch Tay, Kenmore is at the east end. The Crannog Centre is a fascinating re-creation of an Iron Age settlement on the shore of Loch Tay from 2,500 years ago. Crannogs were built on artificial islands with causeways back to shore. There were food preparation demos, fiber preparation and weaving, woodworking and a blacksmith, a small museum and a cafe.
    Then we ventured to the town of Pitlochry-

    "Pitlochry is a bustling Victorian resort town in Perth and Kinross, nestled in the heart of Highland Perthshire on the River Tummel. Famous for its dramatic scenery, whisky distilleries, and outdoor adventures, it is a year-round destination easily accessible by car or train from Edinburgh and Glasgow."

    for lunch and a wander, then on tiny roads along Loch Tummel, past Fortingall with a 5,000 year old yew tree in the churchyard, and through Glen Lyon over the Bridge of Balgie. Then on the tiniest road I've ever been on (maybe other than the goat track on the side of a mountain on a Greek island), basically an asphalted path along the shoulder of Ben Lawers mountain (Munros are mountains over 3,000 ft)

    "Ben Lawers (Scottish Gaelic: Beinn Labhair)[2] is the highest mountain in the Breadalbane region of the Scottish Highlands. It lies north of Loch Tay and is the highest peak of the 'Ben Lawers group', a ridge that includes six other Munros: Beinn Ghlas, Meall Garbh, Meall Corranaich, An Stùc, Meall Greigh and Meall a' Choire Leith.[3] It is also the highest peak in Perthshire,[4] and the tenth highest Munro in Scotland. Ben Lawers was long thought to be over 4,000 feet (1,219 metres) in height, but accurate measurement in the 1870s showed it to be only 3,983 feet (1,214 m). (the figure of 3,983 ft is a conversion from metric - the surveyed height from the main triangulation has always been 3,984 ft on imperial maps published since the 1870s."

    I had thought about trying to hike this, or at least part of it, but after getting lost coming down the big hill above Killin, decided to admire it from afar. I found out the official name of that big hill is Sron a Chlachain-

    Route description
    Sron a’ Chlachain, “the peak that resembles a nose above the village”, is situated on the west side of Killin. This route is a hill path with an ascent of 400 metres (1300ft). Most of it is typical of an upland path as the surrounding habitat is a mixture of rough grazing, giving way to heath and moor at a higher altitude. Walkers are rewarded for their hard work with extensive panoramic views over Killin, Loch Tay, Glen Dochart and Glen Lochay.

    When we finally dropped back down onto the 2 lane/sometimes 1 road along the north shore of Loch Tay toward Killin it seemed like a super highway.
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  • Day 13 chillin' in Killin

    May 28 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Another beautiful day, in the 60s partly sunny/partly cloudy. Took it easy today and did some nearby rambles to the local stone circle and along the Dochart river to the Loch. Sampled another cafe- Gingerbread, for coffee and cake, picked up a few more provisions at the Co-op, now having tea at the cottage and listening to birdsong. Got a ticket for the Gaelic rock band Peat and Diesel at the village hall tomorrow night, my last night here.Read more

  • Day 14 Killin last day

    May 29 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The heat wave has passed, cooler and damper weather has returned, 54° today with intermittent showers. I've stayed in most of the day doing laundry and repacking, crocheting and drinking tea. Ventured into town (a half mile walk) during a sun break for coffee and cake at the Kula cafe, looked through the Reuse Store (like a small Goodwill) then got drenched on the way back. Waiting to head back into town around 8:00pm for the Gaelic rock concert. Tomorrow Iain will pick me up at 9:30 am to drive to the Oban ferry to the Isle of Mull.
    Didn't take any pictures yet today!
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  • Day 15 Oban to Mull

    May 30 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Saturday May 30. A day of transitions- to heavy overcast, wind and steady rain, from Killin to Oban then on a ferry to Mull, then a 50 minute bus ride on a mostly one lane road 20 miles to the town of Tobermory. Dragged my suitcase halfway up the hill to my B&B, stopped in a bus shelter and called them and thankfully the owner came and picked me up. Now installed in a cozy room with a view of the harbour and my very own tea nook. There are some interesting looking nifty gifties on the main street. Bought a ferry ticket online for Iona for Monday, will take 2 buses and approximately 2 1/2 hours to get to the 10 minute ferry. Tomorrow will take it easy and explore the town and vicinity. Brekkie at 8:00.Read more

  • Day 16 Tobermory

    May 31 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Sunday May 31st, 55° mostly cloudy, occasional drizzle, rare sun breaks ("praise be!" as a walker I passed said when a sunbeam suddenly blessed us). Have stayed close to town today, prowling the nifty gifties and the harbour, found a 2 km hike out to a lighthouse. Had lunch in the Gallery which used to be a church-
    "The gallery and restaurant in Tobermory (known as The Gallery) was formerly the Free Church.
    Originally built in 1878, this striking Gothic Revival building on Main Street still features soaring arches and intricate stained-glass windows. It was deconsecrated and converted to an arts and crafts shop in 1964, and today operates as both a gallery and an Italian-style restaurant."
    Now resting up for the marathon to Iona tomorrow, have to catch the bus at 6:50am.
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  • Day 17 Iona

    June 1 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Monday June 1, 55° mostly cloudy/rainy, occasionally brightening
    Marathon day trip to Iona, waiting on the last bus for the return trip at 3:20pm, he let us board early. I only had 4 hours on Iona to take it all in. Left Tobermory at 6:50am. I just go into a trance and pray for the driver continuously, they're quite experienced and used to driving on these tiny one lane roads in a double-decker motor coach but holy- moly!
    If anyone has read "The Mists of Avalon" you may understand the feeling of entering an alternate reality- that is the feeling of being on Iona, it's a time/space warp, ancient energies still present. That's all I can say at the moment.
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  • Day 18 Mull to Glasgow airport

    June 2 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    The harbour is completely socked in with fog this morning, hope the ferry is running.
    Mailed the walking poles home in a tube at the very helpful tiny post office as there is no room in the suitcase. Couldn't leave them behind, they got me through the Camino, they're like old friends.
    After another exhilarating bus ride through dense fog and rain (dear Lord, please bless and keep the bus driver!) I made it to the ferry at Craignure.
    Oh my, in for another exhilarating ride on the Ember electric bus to Glasgow airport!
    Decided to close my eyes and repeat my sacred word for a while rather than watch the road works and loch-edge passings (good thing my blood pressure is low to begin with), actually dozed off for a while.
    Now ensconced in the Glasgow airport Holiday Inn, early flight tomorrow morning, the long haul back to Seattle and the rest of my life already in progress.
    Found this quote:

    "The geographical pilgrimage is the symbolic acting out of an inner journey. The inner journey is the interpolation of the meanings and signs of the outer pilgrimage. One can have one without the other. It is best to have both.”

    ~Thomas Merton

    Travel is a form of pilgrimage for me- seeking, learning, experiencing more of the world.
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    Trip end
    June 3, 2026