• Levana Fletcher
Current
  • Levana Fletcher

Scotland

Textiles, trekking and sacred sites Read more
  • Currently in
    🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 Killiecrankie, Scotland

    Day 11 Killin

    Yesterday in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After a good night's sleep I can describe the day yesterday Tuesday May 26. I hiked up the small mountain above town starting from Breadalbane Park. It was harder than I thought it was going to be. The trail went straight up rather than switch backing. The day was gorgeous- sunny and 70°. I had bought a short sleeved tee shirt at the Outdoor Store and sun cream at the chemist's before starting up, would have been sweltering in my long sleeve smart wool (who knew there would be a heat wave in Scotland?).
    Slow and steady is my motto 🐢so I plodded up, thankfully a young family on holiday showed up right when I couldn't figure out a complicated 2 step gate lock. Then they vanished, ah to be that energetic! I am facing the fact that I can't just scramble up mountains as agilely as I once did! Upward and onward, stopping every 10 steps or so to catch my breath and take in the stunning views. Came to the first summit in a saddle before the highest rocky outcrop, found a rock to lean against and had a snack. Decided to try for the higher summit and trudged on, the trail becoming fainter. Got to just below the rocky summit, saw the young family perched up there sunning, decided to let them have it. Took in the view for a while and started down.
    Lost the trail entirely and commenced on a 2 hour overland adventure of bushwhacking my way through bracken and bog, surprising a few sheep. Kept thinking- the town is just down there, I can see it! Kept heading in a downhill direction and eventually found a farm track and came out .6 miles east of town, a fairly easy walk back. It was interesting to get so lost on what seemed like a pretty straightforward short hike! But my rudimentary navigation skills came to the rescue.
    Staggered into a cafe in town for a cold beer, soup and toastie, then home for a shower and a rest.
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  • Day 10 Killin/Callander

    May 25 in Scotland ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Took the bus to Callander today, the entry to Trossachs National Park. It's a bank holiday like our Memorial Day weekend and gorgeous weather so lots of folks out. Did some gift shopping and walked by the river, chatted with the volunteers at the Visitor Center and managed to have a Scottish breakfast, tea and scone and ice cream before heading back. Met a couple who are on a Macs Adventures walking tour, going town to town for 2 weeks, sounds worth looking into.Read more

  • Day 9 Killin

    May 23 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Getting caught up for yesterday Pentecost Sunday May 25, 2026.
    A rest day, after attending church at the local Church of Scotland (Presbyterian) which was like Morning Prayer led by a lay reader, with recorded music and lyrics projected on a screen. They were very friendly and welcoming at the coffee hour afterward, during the prayers of the people we turned our chairs into groups of 3-4 to share. They have a priest that rotates between 3 village churches, they get him twice a month.
    The small Episcopal church in town has been closed for a while, a wee ramshackle looking place of corrugated steel.
    Wandered around the village scoping out possible hikes, had lunch at the restaurant at the west end of the wee bridge into town overlooking the Falls of Dochart, then had a quiet afternoon at the cottage reading, napping, crocheting and drinking tea. Bliss
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  • Day 8 Killin

    May 23 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Left the lovely Alva St flat in Edinburgh this morning at 10:30 when driver Iain picked me up and we drove to the village of Killin, about two hours going through Stirling. He has lived here all his life and is a fount of knowledge, gave me an orientation to the area and suggestions for local hikes. I'm now installed in the comfy Wee Dalerb Cottage after a run for groceries, reconnoiter of the village and delicious lunch at The River Inn Greek restaurant. The river Dochart runs past the bottom of the garden and there are bird feeders outside the kitchen windows. Hoping to find a local church to attend Pentecost service tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 7 Edinburgh/Water of Leith

    May 22 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Lovely warm partly sunny day, up to 68°. Walked to Dean Village just a little west of the west end, it used to be a mill town on the Water of Leith. Then ambled north to Stockbridge for a detour to the Royal Botanical Garden before continuing up to Leith, a port town where the Royal Yacht Britannia is moored. Skipped a tour of the yacht to wander around before taking the tram back to St Andrew's square in the new town, then slowly strolled through Princes Street gardens back to the west end. Also went to investigate a huge church I spotted this morning - St Mary's Scottish Episcopal Cathedral, built in 1879 so the Anglicans would have a cathedral to worship in. St Giles had become Presbyterian as the national church of Scotland after the Reformation.Read more

  • Day 6 Edinburgh

    May 21 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Took it easy today, did laundry and reorganized, then took a leisurely stroll through the old town and finally got into St Giles Cathedral which was not so mobbed. Did some gift shopping, mailed postcards, had a delicious lunch in the National Museum cafe and wandered through a small fraction of its exhibits, mainly Fashion & Design and Science & Technology, then hit the Sainsbury local on the way home, a lovely day. Tomorrow I'm going to try for the Water of Leith walkway.Read more

  • Day 5 Dundee/St Andrew's

    May 20 in Scotland ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    Successful navigation day! Took another marvelous ScotRail train to Dundee and toured the amazing Dundee V&A Museum of Design, the most strikingly impressive museum I have ever been in. There is a small but gorgeously curated permanent exhibit tracing the history of design in Scotland, the current temporary exhibit is 'Catwalk' about the evolution of fashion shows and what goes into putting them on.
    The cafe had stunning views through huge windows letting the ever-changing light in (the skies are always shifting through moody modulations). Delicious food was served on local ceramics. Had to drag myself out of there to go check out the Contemporary Arts Center nearby, didn't make it to Verdant Works- a refurbished 19th century textile mill. It was another mile walk (have to come back!). Instead went to find the bus station to get to St Andrew's, about a half hour ride. There, I retraced the route that pilgrims took to the cathedral, in ruins since the Reformation. This was once one of the most popular pilgrimage destinations in Europe after Santiago. Legend had it that some of the relics of St Andrew were brought here by St Rule from Greece but whatever (or whoever) was in the reliquary was scattered in 1559.
    Then back 'home' to Edinburgh by bus to Leuchars and train the rest of the way. It got up to 61° today with only a few sprinkles.
    Tomorrow the plan is to take the Water of Leith walkway to Leith, starting at Dean Village, about 3.5 miles, can take the tram back!
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  • Day 4 Edinburgh/Linlithgow

    May 19 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Took a short train ride to Linlithgow this morning to visit with my friend Rachel who I know from EfM in Seattle, she moved back to Scotland a few years ago, her husband is from Glasgow. So good to see her! We had a yummy nosh and a ramble through historic St Michael's Church and Linlithgow Palace where Mary Queen of Scots was born, and I found some gorgeous fabric in an honest to God fabric store! They are a dying breed in Seattle. Then came back and wandered around the New Town, toured the Portrait Gallery (museums are free!), found a Cornish pasty to heat up for dinner, now prostrate on the couch under a Scottish wool blanket.
    Supposed to get warmer next few days...
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  • Day 3 Edinburgh

    May 18 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    Oh my, the jet lag hit harder today but managed to trudge out through wind, rain, hail and intermittent sun breaks. Found 2 more yarn and textiles places, took a break in a Starbucks on the Royal Mile, wandered through the National Galleries, had to duck into Marks & Sparks during a downpour on the way back and buy an umbrella.
    Attended a beautiful, uplifting evensong service last night at St John's Scottish Episcopal Church 2 blocks from where I'm staying, using the language of the 1549 first Book of Common Prayer, haven't heard any of that in a long time.
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  • Getting over jet lag

    May 16 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Arrived yesterday on Aer Lingus via Dublin, plane seats seem to have shrunk! There were the requisite number of screaming babies and someone hacking up a lung behind me for 8 hours but with new earbuds I managed to doze for a few hours.
    Wandered around today, down the Royal Mile surprisingly mobbed with tourists even in mid-May, toured the exhibit at the King's Gallery at Holyrood, the palace itself is closed due to some important person being in residence.
    Found Ginger Twist yarn shop and Edinburgh Fabrics on my Textile Tour map, like wandering through my version of heaven.
    Too gobsmacked and jetlagged to take many pictures, somehow didn't want to be an obvious tourist, want to pretend I live here. It feels strange and natural to be here again, as Google photos recently reminded me Mel and I were here in 2018.
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  • Ready to go!

    May 15 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Bags zipped waiting by the door

    Trip start
    May 15, 2026