Day 9 Bitola to Kavadarci 55 miles 2329 ft

Another memorable touring day in North Macedonia.

The biggest challenge today wasn’t the climbing — it was the traffic. Long stretches of busy road with semis, cars and some very close passes required 100% attention. Bicycle touring teaches patience: sometimes you trust that eventually the road will improve.

I stopped in Prilep for breakfast, riding past fields of tobacco on the way into town. Then came the main climb of the day — Pletvar Pass, topping out at 3,275 ft. On the other side, the traffic finally faded and the riding became beautiful: mountains, quiet roads, vineyards, and eventually a little dirt and gravel.

The last miles into Kavadarci were my favorite. I rode through the middle of the grape harvest: tractors loaded with grapes going both directions, semis and local cars mixed in, a horse-drawn cart — and one 65-year-old American on a loaded bicycle somehow part of the same little procession.

Kavadarci gave me one last little adventure. The apartment was hard to find, but after a few calls and messages I finally connected with the owner’s parents, who were very kind and helped me get settled. The apartment is excellent, and the Koga even has its own secure little cellar under the building.

Finished the day in wine country with a glass of local Temjanika. I’m really enjoying North Macedonia — friendly people, beautiful scenery, and hardly another tourist in sight.Read more