Day 10 Kavadarci to Skopje the Capital

Out early again, cool air and perfect riding weather. The cafés were still closed, but a little market was open. I asked for coffee and somehow ended up with canned espresso and two enormous sandwiches made from bread that had just been delivered. I sat outside eating breakfast while kids quietly walked to school and village life started around me.

Veles was busy, but there were good moments — kids having some kind of sports day in the stadium, and a little bakery where the women tried hard to help me find coffee. One of them even ran outside when I walked past the machine she was pointing me toward. Unfortunately, the damn thing was broken.

Then came the best part of the day: three glorious climbs. I stayed on the older road even when locals suggested the newer highway. The pavement was rough in places, but it was quiet, beautiful, and exactly where I wanted to be.

A ridiculous signpost reassured me: Vienna this way — about 1,000 km. Copenhagen this way — about 2,100 km. Still headed in the right direction. 😄

The last 12–18 miles into Skopje were the opposite of the morning: traffic, buses, rough roads and city chaos. Not a great first impression. But I found the apartment, carried the loaded Koga up four flights of stairs, showered, and was done.

Dinner improved things considerably. Beetroot-avocado salad, seafood squid-ink risotto and a bottle of Macedonian Tikveš red. I also managed to unscrew an entire salt-shaker lid onto my first salad. They kindly replaced it.

62.4 miles, 2,490 feet of climbing. Three glorious climbs. Wound the spring all morning, then let it unwind to Skopje.Read more