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Northern Europe 2024
  • Bill and Margie
  • MargieBill Butz

Northern Europe 2024

We begin another wonderful trip. We will experience Norway, Denmark, Sweden, The Netherlands, Belgium, Luxembourg and Paris. We'd lo
ve for you to come along. Read more
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  • Trip start
    July 23, 2024
    Northern Europe 2024
    3

    On our way

    July 23, 2024 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Today, fortunately, has been uneventful. We flew from Oakland to LAX and are minutes away from boarding our Norse Air flight. It is a 10 hour 10 minute direct flight to Oslo. We will arrive tomorrow. And off to Bergen and the fjords.Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Fish Market on the wharf. Lots of vendors. You can buy or select items and have them cook it.There are trolls everywherePark in Bergen

    Bergen Day 1

    July 24, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    After a comfortable flight from LAX to Oslo, we boarded a short flight to Bergen, then a light rail train into the town center. The sun welcomed us to Norway today! This was a treat because it has rained all month! The wharf area is lively, and the city's charm is here. After a delicious dinner of Pan Fried Wolf Fish, we had a fun but crazy experience! We learned of this from Michael and Betsy. It's called the Magic Ice Bar. You're given a hefty parka and warm gloves, then taken to a gallery of ice sculptures. Did I mention it's -5 degrees? Everything, from the sculptures to the tables and seating, to the bar and the glass your drink is served in, is ice. The sculptures were intricate. It was a fun experience, but we didn'tl last long in there! It's almost 11 pm now and the sun is still out! But we're exhausted so no problem! Goodnight!Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
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    Bergen Day 2

    July 25, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    What a fun day. It started with a "free'" breakfast at the hotel. Now, this isn't the US version of free breakfast. This is a feast. From there we did a 3 hour fjord cruise. We saw some beautiful sights from the boat. However, the topper on the day (pun intended) was a trip up to the top of Mount Floyen. We took the funicular up and walked the really steep 2 miles down. It was raining for most of our time on top and coming down, but it did little to dampen the view or our spirits. We finished with a drink at a bar overlooking the fjord and boats and then dinner at the "fish market". We'll head out for our daily dose of ice cream in a few minutes. Sadly, this will finish Bergen for us. It is a truly charming town with lots of unique and interesting architecture and lots of excellent restaurants. We will miss it.

    Hopefully tomorrow we will have finished adapting to the time difference. We catch each other taking quick cat naps throughout the day.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Unknown Waterfall
    Steinsdalsfossen Waterfall2Steinsdalsfossen WaterfallSteinsdalsfossen WaterfallUnknown WaterfallThey are everywhere you look in these mountains1Our Bergen Hotel shower doorView from our hotel tomight

    Let the Water Falls Begin

    July 26, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The Good, the Bad and the BEAUTIFUL.

    The Good. The Free breakfast. Yesterday, I mentioned how good the breakfast is. We're including a video to show you how breakfast is done in Europe. If I gain weight this trip, the breakfasts will play a big part in that.

    The Bad. Rain. It rained on and off, mostly on, all day. Sometimes it was really heavy. But, we were so fortunate that whenever we stopped to see some sights the rain seldom bothered us.

    The BEAUTIFUL. Norway's Fjords. The magnificence of the landscape is astoundingly breathtaking, green, lush, steep mountains meeting tranquil fjords, raging rivers and an endless array of waterfalls. It is impossible to drive very far without seeing water spilling over the side of a mountain. Some are shoe strings of water cascading downward. Many are raging torrents of water. This is only day one along the fjords and we're already awestruck. Obviously, we'll include pictures, but as with most of nature, a photograph can't truly capture its breathtaking beauty. But we'll try.

    So, if you are not a fan of waterfalls, we apologize. Our photos and movies for the next several days are likely to be dominated with them. If you are a fan, enjoy and try to imagine how beautiful and magnificent they really are.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    2View from our bedroom at Fossli Hotel, tonight's and tomorrow's hotel
    Vorringsfossen upper falls and then lower fallsFossli HotelLangfossenVorringsfossenLåtefossenBabbling brook next to our Odda hotel, just like our honeymoonThey just pop up everywhere you go

    O.M.G.

    July 27, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    Oh My God, I am not a religious man, but today was a religious experience. I thought we had seen unbelievable sights yesterday only to be outdone today. We purposely visited 3 waterfalls today and saw several others. The three planned ones were, I hate to use the same word as yesterday, but I don't know how else to describe them, MAGNIFICANT. We are staying two nights at the Fossli Hotel, which sits on top of the mountain from which the Vorringsfossen waterfall cascades in two major segments. The first is nearly 1,000 feet immediately followed by a smaller waterfall and then followed by the second segment that falls another nearly 600 feet. There are a number of smaller ones further downstream. Phenomenal. We also saw Låtefossen (fossen means waterfall) and Langfossen. Låtefossen was massive and Langfossen was even more impressive. Then we got to Vorringsfossen. I might argue that the other two waterfalls are more impressive as waterfalls, but the surrounding landscape around Vorringsfossen sets it apart.

    Seriously, the waterfalls are special, but everywhere you look travelling along the fjords is beautiful. We are so pleased to be making this trip.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    2
    Dining roomSlow TravelTea roomTraditional Reindeer and TroutLook closely at phone2The whole shebang all within 580 linear feetRainbow

    Fossli Hotel

    July 28, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We managed to get a second night at the Fossli Hotel. This allowed us to spend the day exploring around Voringsfossen (waterfall) and also, generally enjoying some slow travel. Something we don’t do enough of. The weather started nicely, turned a bit blustery, then finished nicely giving us time for several small hikes.

    All the outdoor pics are various views of Voringsfossen.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    All 17 of today's tunnels
    ChurchTop rail stop, check out sign. This is bike path.Bike path switchbacksSchoolhouseView from terrace of our Laerdal HotelWe had 2 Flamdogs, really good

    Kudos to Norway Civil Engineers

    July 29, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    When we planned our trip we could see that what made the fjords stunning was the steep mountains that descended all the way into the fjord. So, I figured we would be driving up and down these mountains a lot. Nay, nay, nay, you drive through them. The only thing we’ve seen more of than waterfalls is tunnels. There are 1,260 tunnels in Norway at last count and they are being added ongoing. Some are short, many, or most, are long being several miles. They go up in elevation down in elevation, curve all ways and even have roundabouts within the mountain offering a number of ways in and out. I have no idea how many we have been through in our three days driving. I’m guessing well more than fifty. We went through 17 today alone and the last one today was 24.5km (15.2 miles) long. Because of the length, they have light shows every so many kilometers to help keep you alert.

    Today’s big event was taking the Flam Railroad (pronounced flom) up the mountain and back down. A one hour trip each way that is considered one of the most beautiful train rides in the world. Lots of fantastic scenery and, of course, lots of waterfalls.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    2Skylift upMt Hoven (Hoof)Goats on top of mountainTroll eggs? Troll marshmallows?Norwegian traffic control, check out line of cars

    Fjord View From 3600 ft

    July 30, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Yesterday, we showed you the amazing tunnel system on our road trip. Today, we found something more odd than impressive. When we saw the huge white round blobs lying in fields along A16, we didn't have a clue. But a quick Google search gave us the answer. These are tractor eggs, plastic covered bales of sileage. Or are they? The locals have another answer. They call them troll eggs and say they hatch in September/October! Others say they are huge marshmallows that are offerings for the local trolls, to keep them full so they won't hunt for humans. So now you know!

    The highlight of our day was the Loen Skylift. It carried us 3,316 feet up Mount Hoven. We had great views of 2 fjords, but the best views were higher. So, of course, we hiked higher! It was COLD, but exhilarating!

    We're in front of a roaring fire now, after enjoying 2 new fish options for dinner, Monk Fish and Hake. Tomorrow ... Briksdalbreen Glacier. ❄️    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Ate some lunch hereDahlias, one of Margie's favorites1For the fishermen. Jealous??We've seen a lot of these grass roofed housesApple orchards everywhere. Lots of cider.Our hotelToday's troll find. They're only supposed to come out at night, go figure.

    Kjenndalsbreen

    July 31, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Today we visited Kjenndalsbreen (breen means glacier). Not the one we mentioned yesterday. I thought we would be able to get closer than we did, but it was still awesome. The drive in was a very narrow road with lots of turns and turnouts because there was not enough room for two cars. But, as we've become accustomed to now, the scenery was stunning. Some mineral in the water makes it cyan in color. And the glacier is blue! Look closely at the pics.

    We also buzzed around Stryn, a cute Norwegian town. We had ice cream, walked the town, bought wine, had wine and then dinner. In case you come to Norway, be aware, you can only buy alcohol over 4.5% in stores that are "vinmonopolet" licensed.

    Observations of the day: There is no decaf coffee in Norway, and yet the people seem more calm! In the same vein, they are very quiet. Friendly, open, but quiet. When we've seen loud people, they've been American, British, or French. 😊    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Margie added one more stone to the cairn.Mountain lake at about 3000 feet.Glacier in distanceMore views of glacierGeiranger belowThe bench was placed in honor of Her Majesty Queen Sonja, who visited the region many times.Rib Boat Tour GeirangerfjordFron last night's hotel roomFrom tonight's hotel roomUntil the late 19th century, sod roofs were the most common roof on rural log houses in Norway

    Endless Grandeur

    August 1, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    We thought we had run out of superlatives, but Grandeur just seems appropriate. I know I've probably gushed too much about it, but the thing is, each day has brought new and different scenery that is just as awe inspiring as the previous day. I will say, if I lived here I wouldn't get anything done. I'd have to spend all my time looking at the sites around me or fishing, and I'm not a huge fishing fan.

    Today was just a 53 mile drive from Loen to Geiranger. The route took us more over the mountains than through them as other routes had. You'll see the views were pretty spectacular.

    Observations of the day: Stop complaining about gas prices. Today we paid $8.41 a gallon. All things are relative. If you want to put a serious shock to your type A driving, come to Norway. The top speed limit is 80 kph. That's just under 50 mph. And they are very serious about exceeding their speed limits.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Like the rib boat we tookEplecider - Hard Cider, the drink of Norway (with blackberries)Saw just outside GeirangerAmazingly, all from our table at lunchOdd building on mountain. No idea what for. Notice the sod roof.

    Leaving the Fjords for New Terrain

    August 2, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We always knew we would one day take a trip to see the fjords of Norway. So, while we feel excited for the rest of our journey, we woke up this morning wanting to drink in the beauty of this piece of heaven. We forgot to mention that Geiranger Fjord is a UNESCO world heritage site. The cruise ship pulled away last evening, and the friendly young guy we stopped to talk to smiled even bigger as he said, "and it won't be here for 2 days!"

    Our drive away took us south and east toward Oslo. Bill has done most of the driving all week, so today I drove part of the way. Remember we said the speed limits are not suggestions as most places in the US! 😊 I even saw the camera that took our photo as we sped by (at the limit). Google navigation warned us of that one.

    Observation of the day: According to the friendly guy, the summer season will end mid-October. After that, no cruise ships, no Rib Boat fjord cruises, and the 450 hard-working temporary workers from other countries leave Norway. Geiranger will be a quiet, incredibly beautiful village with a population of 220 Norwegians. Another worker we spoke to on top of Mt. Hoven said, Eastern Europeans are to Western Europeans what southern immigrants are to the US. We saw a system that works well for all

    2nd observation: Norwegians respect their country. We stayed in Bergen, the 2nd largest city in Norway, and have driven nearly 700 miles. We have yet to see one scrap of litter.

    We're sure you are all watching the Olympics. We are catching some of it, too. Our coverage is always in Norwegian, but when it comes to athletics, we all speak the same language! 🇺🇸    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Lillehammer - Site of the Winter Olympics '94Welcome to Olympic Park '94 (Lillehammer)Our deck viewOur deck viewOur deckOpera HouseInside Opera HouseMunch MuseumSALTSALT

    Oslo

    August 3, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    This morning, we did something we've never done in our 53 years of marriage. We woke up early, showered, and got ready for the day. We went our free breakfast spread and came back to our room. It was raining and too early to head to Oslo, so after a couple of hours, we went back for more breakfast. A first.

    When we got to our very nice ABNB, I had a fever of 101.1. Took a nap and felt better so we went out for a bit. Saw the Opera House. You're allowed to climb on the roof. Next door was the Munch Museum, a famous Norwegian artist. Interesting architecture. We then ate at SALT. A fun place with lots of young people. We were by far the oldest there.

    Also, I stand corrected. We saw a speed limit of 110 kph today.

    Observations of the day: Norway takes really good care of their roads. No pot holes to be found.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Akershus FortressThis is the drawbridge that still had the chains that would have raised it.Sculpture - Glory Glory with CrutchesMunch Museum. We may try tomorrow.The Mother (photo video)

    A day of rest in Oslo

    August 4, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Today has been a rainy day with some bright, warm sunshine followed by gray skies, thunder, and more rain. Bill still has a fever, even with Tylenol. He was so happy to show me 98.6 after his shower, but a leisurely walk to just a couple of Oslo's close sites was plenty for us. It was a good day to rest and try to recuperate.

    We did walk to the Akershus Fortress that was built in the late 13th century, first as a castle and later as a fortress. There were only a handful of people wandering the grounds. We preferred that!

    Yesterday, Bill posted a picture of a statue in front of the Edvard Munch museum, one he took from a distance. Then late last night Heather told us more. This is "The Mother," a sculpture done by Tracey Emins, a British artist. We photographed her again today, and Bill added them here. Heather shared this short video with me, and I was so touched by it that I thought I would share it, too. Thank you, Heather, and all the women we know and love.

    https://youtu.be/4hQpLSidENo?si=ITDjG1Tmu4lwb28s    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Built in the middle of the 12rh century

    Oslo and Norway Finale

    August 5, 2024 in Norway ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    I've been under the weather the last couple of days, but I am better now. Margie said it must have been the travel bug.

    Today's highlight had to be Frognerparken, Oslo's biggest park that features over 200 sculptures by Gustav Vigeland. The theme throughout his work is to represent the cycle of human life. Much of his work is moving, some disturbing. But, isn't that life?

    We also got to visit two streets that have homes from the late 1700s to early 1800s. Even then, people chose to build their homes so close together.

    Observations of the day: Lovely country, lovely people. Margie's sister-in-law Betsy and her husband Michael visited Norway several years ago. When Margie told her we were coming here she said, "The people are just lovely." She was right.

    Second observation. I love our National Parks, but the breathtaking beauty we saw day after day along the fjords is unparalleled to anything else I've ever seen.

    See you in Copenhagen.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    View from our apartment
    Had dinner here. Our apartment is just to right of umbrella pole.

    Welcome to Copenhagen

    August 6, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Today was a travel day, and Margie and I are both a little under the weather, so there's not much touristy stuff today. Our new apartment is in the heart of Copenhagen sentrum (center or town). We are surrounded by restaurants. Very cool place.

    Observations of the day: Even when you're not 100%, travel is still exhilarating.

    Second observation: The children are the future. Norwegians must believe it. There are children's entertainment apparatus parks everywhere, even next to the main train station. And the parents are deeply invested. We saw schools and preschools and there were always lots of parents present.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    The Little Mermaid. For Hans Christian Andersen's book. Hans was born in Denmark.

    Copenhagen Fast Travel

    August 7, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Long day, tiring day, and fun seeing the city. Today, we saw most of what was on our list of sites to see. The rush was because of not feeling well yesterday, realizing we only had 4 nights here (for some reason we both thought it was 5), and seeing that it is likely to rain heavily all day Friday.

    We covered the southern most sites, including Tivoli, an amusement park (just for kicks). Then we went north, which was actually better. It included the Little Mermaid statue and Nyhaven, a street with pretty, narrow, colorful homes.

    Observations of the day: They are not far apart, but Denmark and Norway are markedly different. The Danes are not nearly as quiet or reserved.

    Second observation: Whenever we think we might be getting close to SLOW TRAVEL, we abruptly realize we're not even close. Not only emphasized by how we rushed everywhere all day long today, but when we stopped for a bite at 5:30, we sat beside a young couple. Margie like what she could see of their meal and asked the waiter where it was on the menu. He told her it was from the lunch menu and was no longer available. So, the couple had been there since before the lunch menu ended. Then they proceeded to take over an hour to eat the last 2 or 3 bites of food and maybe a quarter of a glass of beer. We ate REALLY slowly and almost finished before them. Now, that is Slow Travel.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Spotted Matt Damon's son playing Uno in Malmo! 😄1Big stage being set up in middle of large square for festivalTurning Torso Skyscraper

    Malmo, Sweden

    August 8, 2024 in Sweden ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today we went to visit Sweden. We first went to Malmo, where we primarily stayed near the central squares. So much to see.There is a major festival starting tomorrow with a large stage, rides, and normal festival stuff. It made getting pics of the interesting architecture difficult because so much was in the way.Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Had breakfast here

    Back to Copenhagen

    August 8, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today we are over the hump, over halfway through our planned vacation.

    Several reviews said La Glace Pastry was a must. We went yesterday, and then today, on our way out of town, we stopped at Paludin Pastry and liked it more.

    Observations of the Day: It seems Sweden, like Norway, is quiet and subdued. Walking around kind of reminds you of the movie A Quiet Place. We decided that if the movie became real, only the Scandanavians would survive. Maybe not the Danes.

    Second Observation: Day trips are fun. We knew we had limited time, but rather than rush around, we absorbed. We absorbed the culture, we absorbed the architecture, and we just soaked it in.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Kids are the same everywhere!The mummy on the right is from 300 bcVan Gogh. Will see more of him in Amsterdam.This is actually rather disturbingRosenberg CastleBroendende Sommer Koerlighed. Burning Summer Love.

    Copenhagen Hygge

    August 9, 2024 in Denmark ⋅ 🌬 20 °C

    A few years ago, we learned the Danish word hygge. It's pronounced "hyoo-ga". The word means coziness, comfort, pleasure, and togetherness. Think of a warm blanket or favorite sweater! This is what Denmark has shown us this week.

    We knew our last day here would be a rainy one. No worries. We made our way to the art museum Glyptoteket. Later, we walked in the rain to Rosenborg Castle, built in 1607. And the rain continued!

    But it always feels so good to come home. Our apartment is perfect. It overlooks one of the plads, or squares, so while people are gathering below, we get to walk through to take a little rest or plan the next outing. So when the rain stopped, we headed down for a bite to eat. No sooner had we ordered than one last downpour came. It was wild! One couple finished up quickly to give us their table further under the umbrella. We grabbed the blankets on our chairs and our wine. We ordered a traditional Danish dish that translates to 'Burning Summer Love.' We had a great conversation with a family traveling from Germany. Friendliness, conviviality, comfort. THAT is Hygge!    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Paviljoen Vonderpark
    The view from our windows in Copenhagen.

    Amsterdam Culture Shock

    August 10, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Arrived in Amsterdam today. We walked off the plane and were struck by the number of people and bikes. There weren't crowds of people anywhere in Norway. We saw more people in Copenhagen, but still not crowds. Now, hordes of people in Amsterdam. Welcome to European vacation in August.

    Today was a travel day. We're back to a hotel and our room is really large. The hotel is near a big park. Where we walked over to see and there were lots of people enjoying their Saturday. The biggest surprise was that there were outdoor urinals. Yep, you just walk up, do your business, and walk away. All the while, everyone can watch you. We found a seafood bar and had the best meal we've had. Crab cakes, lobster soup, and a seafood platter with all sorts of crustations and fish. Add lots of wine and a chocolate cake and ice cream desert and the perfect meal.

    Observations of the Day: Traveling Scandinavia is expensive. We've just arrived in Amsterdam, and prices already look more like California.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Hard to see, but 7 bridgesCheck out the license plateTraditional Dutch open sandwich on rye breadWe all live in a .............STRAAT - Street Art MuseumLights around Palace

    Amsterdam NOORD

    August 11, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Bill has done an incredible job planning this trip. So he's been familiar with each new city right out of the gate. So, I have to admit that last night and this morning, I felt a little overwhelmed by the size and density of Amsterdam. I just didn't have a sense of where each area was. I said I felt like the little yellow man you drag down to street view on Google maps. I only saw immediately around me. NOW, after spending this sunny warm Sunday exploring the city like seasoned travelers, I feel so comfortable in this lively Dutch city.

    We're in a hotel that wants to be seen more as an AirBnB. The friendly girls at reception told us that! We are happy here. When we walk out the front door, we're on a cobblestone, treelined street. The neighborhood is quiet and stately.

    We booked a canal tour today. Fun! There are 165 canals and 1281 bridges in Amsterdam! Our boat captain must have taken us into more than 10 canals. We were told Amsterdam will celebrate its 750th birthday next year! The canal homes are so unique! Most are 300 years old and still standing. Many are 4 to 5 stories tall and very narrow. We learned that the taxes they paid on their homes were based on the width of the house, so each was tall and narrow with treacherous winding stairways. So, in order to haul things to the upper floors, each home had a timber that extended outward from the center of the roof peak. On the end of the timber was a hook. This was how they hoisted goods and furniture up. Fun facts!

    Later, we made our way to the Noord (north Amsterdam). We walked, took a tram, and a ferry to STRAAT, the Street Art museum. This is in an up and coming area called NDSM that used to be the main shipbuilding area of Amsterdam. It's now a trendy neighborhood with an art focus.    Read more

  • Northern Europe 2024
    Van Gogh felt closest to the common people, the peasants.He couldn't afford to pay models, so he often used his own face to practice his painting.Self portrait.Vincent painted "Almond Blossoms" as a gift to his baby nephew, Vincent Willem (Theo & Jo's son)Vincent and Theo Van Gogh.Theo's wife, Jo, promised to bring Vincent's paintings to the world. She did.

    Van Gogh Museum

    August 12, 2024 in the Netherlands ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    While there are a few other artists represented here, it is almost exclusively Van Gogh's work. The others were his artist proteges, especially Gauguin, with whom Van Gogh had a complicated relationship. It was after an argument with Gauguin that Van Gogh cut off his ear.Read more

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