Darling River 2024

February - March 2024
A solo kayak trip down the Darling River starting at Brewarrina NSW and finishing at Renmark SA (if I have the energy) or Wentworth (if I don't). The journey is about 1900 kms and should take about +/- 9 weeks. Read more
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  • 48days
  • 289photos
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  • 819kilometers
  • Day 22

    Day 21

    February 29 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 41 °C

    900 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wilcannia

    Still very hot. 40+ degrees today and it only dropped to 33 last night, so combined with incessant buzz of mosquitoes, it was not a good nights sleep. A thunderstorm came in mid afternoon with a bit of rain, so I am currently in my camp chair with a gin'n'cordial watching the light show. Very spectacular!
    Hopefully into Wilcannia late Saturday for my first shower in 3 weeks and some real food. Can't wait.
    M
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  • Day 23

    Day 22

    March 1 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 39 °C

    865 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wilcannia

    A cloudy day today which made conditions much better even though it reached 39 degrees. The thunderstorm yesterday continued into the night accompanied with very strong winds which had me holding onto the inside of the tent for a couple of hours in the middle of the night to stop it being flattened. Not a good nights sleep!
    Wilcannia tomorrow to replenish supplies, have something cold (anything!) and have a meal that doesn't involve 2 minute noodles!
    M
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  • Day 24

    Day 23

    March 2 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    825 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    A 40 km paddle to get into Wilcannia with the thought of a shower and fresh water on tap driving me on. Get to the caravan park and yes, it's closed for upgrading! No mention on their website or anything. Very frustrating. Haven't had a shower in over 3 weeks. Anyway, camped on the riverbank next to the caravan park and at least I could put my rubbish in their bins.
    Dinner at the Wilcannia golf club. An unusual name given there is no golf course there! All Aboriginal staff which was good to see.
    Half day off tomorrow to do a bit of sightseeing.
    Halfway to Wentworth!!
    M
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  • Day 25

    Day 24

    March 3 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    809 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    Spent the morning looking around Wilcannia, once "one of the busiest ports in Australia" according to one of the information boards. Now only a pale shadow of its former self with many derelict buildings, and the ones that remain all seem to have iron bars or roller grilles on the openings. Quite depressing. The few that have been restored however are magnificent.
    I felt quite safe there personally, but was constantly worried that someone would help themselves to my gear, which would basically be the end of my trip.
    Had brunch at the bustling Wilcannia Cafe, with lots of grey nomads and locals around. Highly recommended!
    Onto Menindee which is about 300 kms away with nothing in between.
    M
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  • Day 27

    Day 26

    March 5 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    721 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    A couple of long days paddling. Very quiet with no one around which is situation normal up here. Large numbers of goats, with herds of at least 50 compared to the 20 or so I have seen upstream. The riverbanks are stripped of anything green, and dry and dusty. I'm no farmer, but it looks like they are overstocked to me. It coincided with a big increase in the algae too, so perhaps they are related.
    I have found a station on the map called Nelia Gaari a couple of days downstream. They have camp facilities and showers!! Definitely a stopover.
    M
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  • Day 28

    Day 27

    March 6 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 37 °C

    684 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    Paddling, paddling and more paddling! This is a long stretch of about 300 kms between Wilcannia and Menindee. Hopefully I'll make it to Nelia Gaari Station tomorrow for a shower and some maintenance on the kayak.
    Just finished listening to Jock Zonfrillo's autobiography on audiobook. A very interesting life to put it mildly, particularly with the Adelaide connection.
    M
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  • Day 29

    Day 28

    March 7 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    640 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    This section of the river is under the influence of the Menindee weir, even though it is about 120 km downstream. That means the river level is higher than it would be naturally and that there is minimal current. That made the 44km paddle into Nelia Gaari Station an all day ordeal. Greg, who with Lily runs the station, was very helpful and showed me how to get to the campsites which were a bit further down river, and it was only me and another grey nomad couple camping there. A couple of hours later he came over in his ute with his 3 dogs and gave me an esky with 4 ice cold beers! We had a nice chat for an hour or so. Fantastic country hospitality!
    On another note, I have noticed all the dead fish I have seen (20 - 30 in total maybe) all seem to be the same size, about 40cm, and species. My cheat sheet on native fish shows they could be silver perch?? Maybe their capacity to live in low oxygenated water is not as good as other species. Interestingly the pelicans swim right past them even though they look as though they have just died. For further research...
    M
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  • Day 30

    Day 29

    March 8 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 33 °C

    640 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    A nice relaxing day at Nelia Gaari Station doing some much needed maintenance on the kayak, clothes washing and sorting out my gear. I also had 4 showers today, making up for lost time after a month without one. It was only water pumped straight from the river, but it felt fantastic!
    The hospitality shown by Greg and Lily was quite extraordinary. Greg dropped an egg and bacon roll into me this morning after I told him how much I enjoyed the one in Wilcannia, more beers were delivered tonight, then a KFC meal which Lily had brought back from her trip to Broken Hill today! All this quite unbidden and highly embarrassing. They only wanted $20 for the 2 nights which was ridiculous. I gave them considerably more than that which they were very reluctant to accept.
    A,great experience in country hospitality, and we agreed to keep in touch.
    3 or 4 more days to Wilcannia, then it's the start of the home stretch.
    Problems with the mobile tower around d here apparently, which is why these posts are delayed.
    M
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  • Day 31

    Day 30

    March 9 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    591 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    An early start this morning, up at 6.30 and on the river by 7.30 which worked well as I got 30 kms or so done in the cool of the morning. The only downside is packing up in the semi darkness and warding off the mozzies which don't disappear until after dawn.
    As the topography slopes very gently towards Menindee and the water is basically flat due to the weir, the riverbanks get lower and lower until at Menindee you are in a series of lakes. The slower current also means the water becomes clearer as more soils drop out. Visibility here is about 10cm compared to basically zero up to now.
    Still very hot, 38 or 39 forecast for the next few days.
    No internet for the last few days which has been rather frustrating. First world problem I suppose!
    Hope everyone is well back in the big smoke.
    M
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