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Darling River 2024
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Darling River 2024

A solo kayak trip down the Darling River starting at Brewarrina NSW and finishing at Renmark SA (if I have the energy) or Wentworth (if I don't). The journey is about 1900 kms and should take about +/- 9 weeks. Read more
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  • Trip start
    February 8, 2024
    River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Our Broken Hill accommodation (in the rough end of town)
    Our Bourke accommodationAlpacas. Very unusual!First night camp

    Day 1

    February 9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Hi All,
    Another year, another river trip! This time the Darling River in outback NSW.
    Arrived in Brewarrina this morning after a long 2 day drive through Broken Hill and Cobar. A big big thankyou to co-pilots Claire and Will in getting me up here and helping me set off.
    The river is flowing at about 2000 ML/d which is great considering it has only been around 300 the last few months. Sounds a lot, but not as much as the 5000 the Murrumbidgee typically has and the 10000 the Murray typically has (and up to 150000 in flood).
    Brewarrina has the Aboriginal fish traps which are an arrangement of large rocks in the river bed to trap fish. At 30,000 years old they are the oldest recorded man made structures on earth. We couldn't see them unfortunately as they were underwater with the high river flow.
    I am on the Barwon River at the moment. It becomes the Darling at the confluence with theCulgoa River down near Bourke. It is only about 30 metres wide but mercifully free of big snags so far.
    Goats, pigs, cattle, sheep, emus and alpacas all seen on the riverbanks. No humans!
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    The first big pump I've seen and it's a big! It would cost about $500,000 to fill tank with diesel!
    Lots of these nice looking eucalyptus with silvery blue foliage. Will have to investigate the specieSome goats checking out my progressSome of the many feral pigs along the riverOne of the few kangaroos I've seen

    Day 2

    February 10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Not so hot last night which was a relief. Everything going OK so far except breaking the strap on my new All Terrain crocs while trying to extricate myself from glutinous mud, and major leakage of Tiger Balm into my drybag!Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    A big pump station, presumably up so high to be above flood level
    The junction with the Culgoa RiverA blurry photo of what I thought was a snake (actually a goanna crossing the river)A big Billy Goat covered in burrs which are in plague proportions up hereSome sort of kingfisher I thinkRocks in the river, many of which are just below the surface. The kayak suffered a minor flesh woundMore emus than kangaroos seen so farHave only seen the odd pelican

    Day 3 - 5

    February 13, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Distance to Wentworth 1497 kms
    Next town: Bourke

    All going well so far although I am still getting back into the rhythm of kayaking and camping. Paddling about 5 to 6 hours a day, covering 30 - 35 kms which is pretty exhausting given the minimal amount of training I did.
    Passed the junction with the Culgoa River yesterday which makes the end of the Barwon and the start of the Darling. Still super quiet on the river. Saw my first human this afternoon on Day 5, and quite minimal signs of development apart from the odd shanty, windmill or pump.
    Very hot out on the river even the the maximum temperature is low to mid 30's. I think it is a combination of the high humidity and sitting in the sun all day. I stop every hour or two and sit in the river for 10 minutes which helps.
    A major electrical storm last night with lightning, heavy rain and lashing winds. Quite a different experience when you’re inside a 1 man tent!
    Looking forward to Bourke tomorrow and devouring a pizza and cold beer!
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Clarified River water with sludge at the bottom
    The nicely restored lift span bridge with the new bridge behind itA paddle steamer in BourkeBourke wharf. Different loading levels depending on the size of boat and river levelEgret (I think)Bourke Post OfficeMy rough itineraryThe Bourke weir flowing at around 2000 ML/day

    Day 6

    February 14, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    1459 kms to Wentworth
    Next town Louth

    Made it into Bourke after a long paddle into a headwind. I was planning on having a rest day here but I have reprovisioned and discovered all the towns charms so I will move on.
    Fred Hollows' grave would have been interesting if the cemetery wasn't so far out of town. Although he was born in NZ he said he wanted to be buried under a coolibah tree in Bourke and apparently he was.
    Carrying enough water was problematic on my other two trips. I now get a bucket of river water, stir in half a teaspoon of alum, leave it overnight and the next morning the water is perfectly clear with all the sludge at the bottom. I then syphon off the clear water into my Grayl Geopress filter and it is ready to drink. It has a slight mineral taste to it but otherwise not much different to tap water. Works really well.
    Camping at Bourke weir tonight. Could be a pretty spot but unfortunately strewn with broken glass, litter and carp carcases!
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Jimmy the Wog
    Map said "historic site". An old loading station for river boats maybe??Still lots of rocky riverbanks. Tricky to find campsites!1A nice looking house 10 or so kms downstream of BourkeGoats in all different colours and sizesYet another emu...1Tonight's campsite. Flat and grassy. Perfect!

    Day 7

    February 15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    1429 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Louth

    Had to portage around the weir this morning, and another weir coming up tomorrow. Exhausting!
    I am amazed that the weir had no warning signs or line of yellow "danger" buoys. It was also positioned just around a corner, so if you were in a power boat travelling at speed, or even in a kayak and not paying attention, you would go straight over it. If you didn't drown you would most likely lose your boat.
    Jimmy the Wog (as he introduced himself) came past on his mountain bike. Lived in Bourke for over 50 years after emigrating from Italy. Quite a talker and philosopher. Married to a beautiful woman 25 years his junior (no details given) and proclaimed himself the fittest 77 year old in Australia. Said he was heading down the track for a ride and always has a few beers and a couple of cigarettes at the half way point (this is at 7.30 in the morning!). He gave me a couple of insect repellent sticks out of his backpack after watching me swatting flies. A nice bloke. Easy to pre-judge people. Photo attached.
    Lots of rain this afternoon so thankfully much cooler.
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    I have noticed this green sheen on the water in some areas. Hopefully not blue green algae!
    2Darters I think. By far the most common bird up hereThe first permanently parked caravan I've seen up hereA danger sign but still no warning bouysThe weir is only about 100m ahead here. So hard to see!Had to drag the kayak up this bank for the portage around the weirDownstream view of the weirTonight's campsiteThe hinterland behind the river Rarely get to see it as you’re down so low

    Day 8

    February 16, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    1389 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Louth

    A long day, with another portage around a weir which took a couple of hours, then hard to find a campsite until a suboptimal one came up about 6.30pm.
    A massive electrical storm last night which scared the wits out of me, with some lightning strikes seeming to be less than 200m away. Storms are great spectacles when you’re on the back verandah but not so good in a tent in the middle of nowhere!
    Lost my combination cutlery utensil somehow, but still had a teaspoon which I use for the alum, so able to eat my 2 minute noodles and tinned tuna, but no knife now, so the start of fishing will have to wait a bit. Otherwise all going well. Feel a bit of paddle fitness coming back which is great.
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    A short section with red banks
    1Serious navigation hazard! A thick steel cable suspended across the river about 0.5m above the riverOne of the few pieces of flotsam. Probably washed down in the last flood1Lots of unusual rock formations

    Day 9

    February 17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    1355 kms to Wentworth
    Next town Louth

    Still very quiet up here. I thought there might be the odd fisherman or two in a tinny, but not yet. Haven't seen a single person except in Bourke.
    Only a few pigs and a couple of kangaroos today. Seems like the properties along the river here don't have goats, cattle or sheep.
    Forecast to be in the high 30's for the next few days so I’m going to try and be on the water earlier than the usual 9am.
    Hope the Fringe is as good as ever for you lot in Adelaide!
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler

    Day 10

    February 18, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 37 °C

    1316 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Louth

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Amazing how some trees survive the erosion
    The mouth of the Bokhara River which comes down from QueenslandNoted..1The slipper riverbank I had to carry all the gear up, the pull the kayak up by ropeA black darter about to take flightGoats wandering along the riverbankThe Louth weirAn old railway car? Couldn't be sure

    Day 11

    February 19, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 35 °C

    1285 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Louth

    Still very hot and still very quiet. Haven't seen anyone else on the river in nearly 400kms of paddling. Definitely have the river to myself!
    Another exhausting 2 hour portage around the Louth weir this morning. Thank goodness the kayak is very robust, having to pull it up the riverbank with a rope. Even still, it has a few battle scars underneath.
    Been seeing more and more algae. Not surprising I suppose given the warm water (about 30 degrees), the slow moving current and all the animals along the banks. Interestingly there has been no sign of it for the first 10kms or so downstream of the weir. Increased oxygen levels from the water cascading over the weir maybe. Anyway, I am careful not to take water out of the river for drinking if there is any sign of it.
    Saw a few pigs, goats and roos, but also 3 or 4 tortoises (turtles??). They sit on fallen tees just above the surface, then plop into the water when they see you (or maybe hear you). They then just poke their head up to watch you as you go past.
    Shindys Inn at Louth tomorrow where I'm going to murder a cold beer. Totally had enough of warm cordial!
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    The bridge at Louth
    Inside Shindys InnKathy. Owner, barperson cook and bottlewasherAaahhhhh......3Not many snags so far, but this was one of the biggestNot sure what the goats were looking for up there!1A large plastic structure I couldn't identify. Od rainwater tank??

    Day 12

    February 20, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 36 °C

    1254 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Tilpa

    Made it into Louth for a late lunch at Shindys Inn, a small one room hotel which is the centrepiece of Louth (population 43). It is owned and run by Kathy who has lived in the area all her life and runs the pub by herself. Had some nice fish and chips and Tooheys Old both of which went down well. Was going to stay in Louth tonight but the few potential campsites were strewn with dead carp and broken glass so I have moved down river a bit.
    Another weir tomorrow. Groan...
    Saw my first other boat on the river today. A couple of blokes in a tinny.
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    The one that got away..
    The old wool store (?) at Dunlop StationLots of magnificent trees in this section of the riverLouth downstream weir1Water tanker filling up from the rivr1A cow showing off her new ear rings!

    Day 13

    Feb 21–24, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    1216 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Tilpa

    Cloudy and a bit cooler today which made the portage around the downstream Louth weir a bit more bearable, but still a 2 hour slog.
    I think there are 7 weirs altogether, so 4 down and 3 to go.
    Passed Dunlop and Tilby Stations today, both of which were major wool producers in the late 1800's and early 1900's. Unfortunately the river level is 6 or 8 metres below the surrounding countryside so you can't see much.
    Algae levels a bit less than the last few days which is good, but still present as a green sheen here and there. No dead fish which is a good sign.
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    A peaceful early morning on the river
    A tree growing on its own little islandUnidentified object on the bank. An old boiler??EgretThe nice Homestead at Idalia Station1More Australian Darters. Very timid so lucky to get this close!A high risk manoeuvre in the deep glutinous mud. Lots of stock die this way

    Day 14

    February 22, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    1173 ks to Wentworth
    Next town: Tilpa

    A nice long, but pleasant day on a very scenic section of the river.
    Slightly sore finger joints as I had experienced on the other trips, otherwise all good.
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Sunrise at last night's camp
    Could be an early colonial painting!1No, not one of my footing designs..The river is like an obstacle course in the section1Tonights camp. Very nice.

    Day 15

    February 23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 33 °C

    1135 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Tilpa

    The easterly tailwind has gone and is now a south westerly headwind which has made for slow progress. Hoping to get to Tilpa on Saturday but now it's looking like Sunday. Hoping the Tilpa Hotel is going to be open as I've read it is one of the last true bush pubs in Australia.
    No internet in the last few days. I didn't think I would miss it, but it’s not until you don't have it that you realise just how much you rely on it!
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Unidentified structure. An old pump maybe?Dorper sheep doing their thing on the riverbankThe Tilpa bridgeTilpa Hotel front bar1Couldn't see any Teslas

    Day 16

    February 24, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    1093 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wilcannia

    A big day to get to Tilpa, with 7 hours paddling, 2 hours portaging around the Tilpa weir and 2 hours due diligence at the Tilpa Hotel. Found a camp site at about 7.30pm. Phew!
    Tilpa is a tiny settlement on the Darling, and the Tilpa Hotel was terrific. No airs or graces, full of friendly locals and lots of history everywhere you look.
    Onwards towards Wilcannia tomorrow. About one third the way to Wentworth.
    Glad to get some internet here and catch up on what's happening in the world.
    Hope all is well back in the civilisation.
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Tonight's camp with the abandoned Wyloona Homestead behind
    2Finally got a closeup of a Darter when he wasn't paying attentionThen he took off in a bit of a panic!21Hard to see, but there is an eagle at the leftof the photoMum, Dad and the kids...

    Day 18

    February 26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

    1022 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wilcannia

    A nice relaxed days paddling despite the warm conditions. Tilpa is forecast to be 40 degrees plus for the next 4 days which I’m not looking forward to. I try and be up by 7am and leave by 8.30 each morning. I would get up earlier, but the mosquitoes are absolutely ferocious and don't dissipate until the sun is well up, so I stay in the tent until most of them are gone. The flies start getting active at first light so there is no respite!
    Food supplies lasting well. I was contemplating getting supplies sent to Tilpa to replenish stocks, but there was no need. Powdered milk instead of long life, couscous and 2 minute noodles means the food volume is kept to a minimum.
    Only a bit over 1000kms to go!    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    A massive root ball on this giant which has fallen into the river
    This poor animal had some sort of disease on its cheek which was covered I literally 100's of fliesPossibly an old structure used for loading barges??Magnificent old trees everywhere!Lots of nice sandy beaches for camping, and definitely no competition for them!

    Day 19

    February 27, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C

    980 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wilcannia

    Still very hot and very isolated. Haven't seen anyone since leaving Tilpa.
    I may have been lucky with the flow in the river currently being about 2000 ML/day which is up on its normal flow, but the river seems in good health to my untrained eye. Yes, some invasive weeds on the riverbanks and carp in the river and yes, there are isolated sections of algae and many feral pigs, but the number of dead fish I can count on one hand and the river is teeming with birdlife and animals both native and domesticated. I have seen virtually no litter and hardly any water being pumped out except tiny amounts for stock watering. I know water is taken out upstream on the Barwon and Culgoa for cotton farming, but nothing like the amount taken out of the Murray and Murrumbidgee.
    Overall I have been really heartened with what I have seen after reading so many articles about environmental degradation and despair for the Darling. Things may yet change I know!    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    The mornings sunrise
    Cute kid! He was not much bigger than JimmyBot sure how this tree branch got there...My pelican escort!One of many eagles nestsGreat lunch spotPerfect campsite. Flat, sandy, shady and about 1 metre above the river

    Day 20

    February 28, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌩️ 40 °C

    938 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wilcannia

    Super hot today. I think it reached 44 degrees in Wilcannia and it sure felt like it on the river.
    Had a group of 15 to 20 pelicans with me today. I would approach them from behind and they would take flight and settle back on the river a kilometre or so downstream. When I caught up to them ten minutes later, the process was repeated. This happened basically the entire day. I know how much energy big birds like pelicans need to get in the air, but they didn't seem perturbed about the process. It was like having an escort!
    So few campsites along the river in this area and was thinking I would have to camp on top of the riverbank. An absolutely perfect one came up about 5.30pm. Phew!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    This morning's sunrise
    Black cockatooEgretA tree growing on its own island mid-riverThe shape, size and resilience of the trees on the riverbank constantly amaze me

    Day 21

    February 29, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 41 °C

    900 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wilcannia

    Still very hot. 40+ degrees today and it only dropped to 33 last night, so combined with incessant buzz of mosquitoes, it was not a good nights sleep. A thunderstorm came in mid afternoon with a bit of rain, so I am currently in my camp chair with a gin'n'cordial watching the light show. Very spectacular!
    Hopefully into Wilcannia late Saturday for my first shower in 3 weeks and some real food. Can't wait.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    1Sculpture a la DarlingThe Junction with the Paroo River3Delicious windmills at Hamilton StationSuperb campsite but too early to stop!

    Day 22

    March 1, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 39 °C

    865 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Wilcannia

    A cloudy day today which made conditions much better even though it reached 39 degrees. The thunderstorm yesterday continued into the night accompanied with very strong winds which had me holding onto the inside of the tent for a couple of hours in the middle of the night to stop it being flattened. Not a good nights sleep!
    Wilcannia tomorrow to replenish supplies, have something cold (anything!) and have a meal that doesn't involve 2 minute noodles!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    Atley Station Homestead
    The goats come in all colours and patternsA very high stand for the water tank!1Recording device near WilcanniaThe old lifting span bridge. Now a pedestrian wayWilcannia golf clubThe Wilcannia weir. Portage was on the opposite side. Another tricky one!

    Day 23

    March 2, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    825 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    A 40 km paddle to get into Wilcannia with the thought of a shower and fresh water on tap driving me on. Get to the caravan park and yes, it's closed for upgrading! No mention on their website or anything. Very frustrating. Haven't had a shower in over 3 weeks. Anyway, camped on the riverbank next to the caravan park and at least I could put my rubbish in their bins.
    Dinner at the Wilcannia golf club. An unusual name given there is no golf course there! All Aboriginal staff which was good to see.
    Half day off tomorrow to do a bit of sightseeing.
    Halfway to Wentworth!!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleDarling River 2024Traveler
    The old gaol, now a police station
    The beautifully restored Post OfficeWilcannia Cafe. Milk shakes and eggs and bacon rolls highly recommended!The old lift span bridge with the new bridge beyondTonight's camp. One of the best so far!

    Day 24

    March 3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    809 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Menindee

    Spent the morning looking around Wilcannia, once "one of the busiest ports in Australia" according to one of the information boards. Now only a pale shadow of its former self with many derelict buildings, and the ones that remain all seem to have iron bars or roller grilles on the openings. Quite depressing. The few that have been restored however are magnificent.
    I felt quite safe there personally, but was constantly worried that someone would help themselves to my gear, which would basically be the end of my trip.
    Had brunch at the bustling Wilcannia Cafe, with lots of grey nomads and locals around. Highly recommended!
    Onto Menindee which is about 300 kms away with nothing in between.
    M    Read more

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