Darling River 2024

February - March 2024
A solo kayak trip down the Darling River starting at Brewarrina NSW and finishing at Renmark SA (if I have the energy) or Wentworth (if I don't). The journey is about 1900 kms and should take about +/- 9 weeks. Read more
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  • Day 2

    Day 1

    February 9 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 33 °C

    Hi All,
    Another year, another river trip! This time the Darling River in outback NSW.
    Arrived in Brewarrina this morning after a long 2 day drive through Broken Hill and Cobar. A big big thankyou to co-pilots Claire and Will in getting me up here and helping me set off.
    The river is flowing at about 2000 ML/d which is great considering it has only been around 300 the last few months. Sounds a lot, but not as much as the 5000 the Murrumbidgee typically has and the 10000 the Murray typically has (and up to 150000 in flood).
    Brewarrina has the Aboriginal fish traps which are an arrangement of large rocks in the river bed to trap fish. At 30,000 years old they are the oldest recorded man made structures on earth. We couldn't see them unfortunately as they were underwater with the high river flow.
    I am on the Barwon River at the moment. It becomes the Darling at the confluence with theCulgoa River down near Bourke. It is only about 30 metres wide but mercifully free of big snags so far.
    Goats, pigs, cattle, sheep, emus and alpacas all seen on the riverbanks. No humans!
    Mark
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  • Day 3

    Day 2

    February 10 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    Not so hot last night which was a relief. Everything going OK so far except breaking the strap on my new All Terrain crocs while trying to extricate myself from glutinous mud, and major leakage of Tiger Balm into my drybag!Read more

  • Day 6

    Day 3 - 5

    February 13 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    Distance to Wentworth 1497 kms
    Next town: Bourke

    All going well so far although I am still getting back into the rhythm of kayaking and camping. Paddling about 5 to 6 hours a day, covering 30 - 35 kms which is pretty exhausting given the minimal amount of training I did.
    Passed the junction with the Culgoa River yesterday which makes the end of the Barwon and the start of the Darling. Still super quiet on the river. Saw my first human this afternoon on Day 5, and quite minimal signs of development apart from the odd shanty, windmill or pump.
    Very hot out on the river even the the maximum temperature is low to mid 30's. I think it is a combination of the high humidity and sitting in the sun all day. I stop every hour or two and sit in the river for 10 minutes which helps.
    A major electrical storm last night with lightning, heavy rain and lashing winds. Quite a different experience when you’re inside a 1 man tent!
    Looking forward to Bourke tomorrow and devouring a pizza and cold beer!
    Mark
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  • Day 7

    Day 6

    February 14 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 35 °C

    1459 kms to Wentworth
    Next town Louth

    Made it into Bourke after a long paddle into a headwind. I was planning on having a rest day here but I have reprovisioned and discovered all the towns charms so I will move on.
    Fred Hollows' grave would have been interesting if the cemetery wasn't so far out of town. Although he was born in NZ he said he wanted to be buried under a coolibah tree in Bourke and apparently he was.
    Carrying enough water was problematic on my other two trips. I now get a bucket of river water, stir in half a teaspoon of alum, leave it overnight and the next morning the water is perfectly clear with all the sludge at the bottom. I then syphon off the clear water into my Grayl Geopress filter and it is ready to drink. It has a slight mineral taste to it but otherwise not much different to tap water. Works really well.
    Camping at Bourke weir tonight. Could be a pretty spot but unfortunately strewn with broken glass, litter and carp carcases!
    Mark
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  • Day 8

    Day 7

    February 15 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 32 °C

    1429 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Louth

    Had to portage around the weir this morning, and another weir coming up tomorrow. Exhausting!
    I am amazed that the weir had no warning signs or line of yellow "danger" buoys. It was also positioned just around a corner, so if you were in a power boat travelling at speed, or even in a kayak and not paying attention, you would go straight over it. If you didn't drown you would most likely lose your boat.
    Jimmy the Wog (as he introduced himself) came past on his mountain bike. Lived in Bourke for over 50 years after emigrating from Italy. Quite a talker and philosopher. Married to a beautiful woman 25 years his junior (no details given) and proclaimed himself the fittest 77 year old in Australia. Said he was heading down the track for a ride and always has a few beers and a couple of cigarettes at the half way point (this is at 7.30 in the morning!). He gave me a couple of insect repellent sticks out of his backpack after watching me swatting flies. A nice bloke. Easy to pre-judge people. Photo attached.
    Lots of rain this afternoon so thankfully much cooler.
    Mark
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  • Day 9

    Day 8

    February 16 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    1389 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Louth

    A long day, with another portage around a weir which took a couple of hours, then hard to find a campsite until a suboptimal one came up about 6.30pm.
    A massive electrical storm last night which scared the wits out of me, with some lightning strikes seeming to be less than 200m away. Storms are great spectacles when you’re on the back verandah but not so good in a tent in the middle of nowhere!
    Lost my combination cutlery utensil somehow, but still had a teaspoon which I use for the alum, so able to eat my 2 minute noodles and tinned tuna, but no knife now, so the start of fishing will have to wait a bit. Otherwise all going well. Feel a bit of paddle fitness coming back which is great.
    Mark
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  • Day 10

    Day 9

    February 17 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 36 °C

    1355 kms to Wentworth
    Next town Louth

    Still very quiet up here. I thought there might be the odd fisherman or two in a tinny, but not yet. Haven't seen a single person except in Bourke.
    Only a few pigs and a couple of kangaroos today. Seems like the properties along the river here don't have goats, cattle or sheep.
    Forecast to be in the high 30's for the next few days so I’m going to try and be on the water earlier than the usual 9am.
    Hope the Fringe is as good as ever for you lot in Adelaide!
    Mark
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  • Day 11

    Day 10

    February 18 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 37 °C

    1316 kms to Wentworth
    Next town: Louth