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Murrumbidgee River 2023
  • River Murray paddle

Murrumbidgee River 2023

An attempt to kayak the 'Bidgee from Gundagai to the Murray junction. Read more
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  • Trip start
    March 6, 2023
  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    The mandatory Dog on the Tuckerbox photoTypical upper Murrumbidgee with rolling hills in the background.Lunch stop. Could have spent the day there..About 1.5m clearance under this bridge. Glad the river wasn't any higher!3View across the river from tonight's camp.

    Day 1

    March 6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Hi All,
    Arrived in Gundagai last night after a very long all day drive from Adelaide. A big thankyou to Claire and Will for co-piloting on the drive.
    Set off mid morning after the mandatory visit to the Dog on the Tuckerbox. The river flow is perfect at about 13,000 ML/day, so drifting at about 6km/h and 10km/h when paddling. Very quiet and peaceful. Did not see another person or boat on the river. Just the way I like it!
    Should take about 4-5 weeks to reach the Murray Junction.
    Mark    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Some interesting rock formations
    Lots of magnificent trees line the banks1An amazing house overlooking the river in the middle of nowhereWantabadgery camp ground where I called in for a pitstopAn abandoned bridge. There was evidence of it being underwater in recent floods!Beautiful sunset

    Day 2

    March 8, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A long day's paddle of about 45kms but still enjoying the serenity. Very isolated, with only a few cattle and sheep observing my progress. Onto Wagga tomorrow to reconnect with the human race!
    M

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Some interested observors on the riverbank
    A canoe tree possiblyOne of the countless thousands of sulphur crested cockatoosCricket tragics probably already know Tubby was from Wagga, but news to me. Michael Slater too.1Some Wagga Street art

    Day 3

    March 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Distance travalled 120kms
    Next town Narrandera

    Finally arrived in Wagga Wagga after a bit of a slog. I was expecting to see the boat ramp of the caravan park, but in fact it didn’t have one so I ended up paddling about 1km past it and then had to paddle back upstream against the current. Seriously hard work! Not happy!
    Wagga apparently is the Indigenous word for "crow" and in their language (as in various others) the plural is formed by repeating the word, so Wagga Wagga means "land of many crows". I thought that was rather interesting.
    Staying in the caravan park tonight which is rather strangely situated right next to the Treatment Works!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    22The itinerary (which is way off already)

    Day 4

    March 9, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Distance travelled 142kms
    Next town Narrandera

    Had a look around Wagga this morning and indulged myself with a Big Breakfast. I had intended to stay there tonight also, but thought I may as well push on. It is a large town of about 70,000 people but to me it lacks the charm of most of the towns along the Murray. Although it is on the Murrumbidgee, there are no sweeping lawns along the riverfront, picnic areas, riverfront cafes and the like that you see on the big towns on the Murray. The Murrumbidgee just quietly winds it way behind the town, almost unnoticed. Quite strange.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Sunrise. Always a serene time on the river. Went back to sleep afterwards...
    Some sheep and kangaroos2Amazing how these trees survive with minimal root embedment. One more flood and this one is historyA very elegant old rivetted steel truss road bridge near CurrawarnaTonight's campsite with smoke from a burnout in the background

    Day 5

    March 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Distance travelled 190kms
    Next town Narrandera

    Very cold last night, a minimum of 7 degrees according to BOM. Quite cosy in my new sleeping bag thankfully, as it was the cold nights that was probably the worst of the Murray trip.
    Made it to Currawarna State Forest reserve after a 45km paddle today. Have to keep reminding myself that it’s the journey not the destination, so occasionally I stop paddling, stretch back in the kayak and drift for a while listening to the sounds of the river. Very pleasant. Saw 2 tinnies today, and had a brief chat with the fishermen. Nice to have some human contact!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    1A cormorant maybe..
    Great to see more and more pumps powered by solar not dieselA lot of the land has been cleared for grazing. Sometimes right to the riverbank1Lots of these birds along the river. Not sure what they are though!Some of these trees must have been here when Captain Sturt rowed past nearly 200 years agoLots of native (cypress) pines along the bank

    Day 6

    March 11, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Distance travelled 232kms
    Next town Narrandera

    Quite a few fishing boats on the river today, being a Saturday. Thankfully I have yet to see a ski boat!
    The current is definitely slowing, from around 6km/h to around 2 or 3km/h, I assume that's due to the first weir coming up.
    All going well, plenty of good camping spots, and good weather on the horizon.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    1Beautiful sunset last night
    Interesting rock formations near the weirThis is the slope I had to pull the kayak upDownstream view of Berembed weir. Quite an impressive structure. Would love to see it in flood!Not sure. An attempt at an artistic shot I think!Renovators delight on the riverbank

    Day 7

    March 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Distance travelled 272kms
    Next town Narrandera

    Hi All,
    I had to negotiate the first of about 6 weirs today. Unlike the Murray, none of them have locks to transfer boats from one level to the other. This "portage" involved emptying the kayak of all the gear, lugging it all to the top of the riverbank, trying to pull the kayak up to the top then along a very rough track to the downstream part of the river about 500m away. The whole exercise took about 1.5 hours and was quite exhausting! Only 5 more to go :-(
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Some beautiful cliffs. Hard to imagine these were underwater during the floods
    One of the very few larger pump stations I have seen so farA native pine hanging in there despite being underminedSome cormorants sharing my lunch stopA typical Murrumbidgee scene. Big gums, gently flowing river and no people for miles!The bridge from the Sturt Highway into Narrandera

    Day 8

    March 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Distance travelled 318kms
    Next town Darlington Point

    Hi All,

    A wild night last night with 60km/h winds, rain and thunderstorms. I thought several times the tent was going to self destruct. I had a very broken nights sleep but it was quite enjoyable in a strange way.
    Made it to Narrandera late today. The intention was to stay at the caravan park but there was no access up the 5m near vertical riverbank. Not to worry, camped on the other side of the river and will forego my hot shower for a few more days! Way ahead of schedule so I am constantly telling myself to slow down and enjoy it. I'm not sure what it is that keeps pushing me forward. Still thinking about that one...
    Hope you're all enjoying Mad March!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    The lovely picketed Narrandera Oval
    Inside the mobile Blood Bank. They went thru my vein so I left with all my blood and a bruised arm!A magnificent old brewery building near the riverbankSome very friendly horses grazing g on the track leading to my campsiteOne of many monuments to Charles Sturt

    Day 9

    March 14, 2023 in Australia

    Distance travelled 318kms
    Next town Darlington Point

    A lovely relaxed day today. Very impressed with Narrandera, a shadow of its former self no doubt, but still full of stately old buildings and wide shady streets. Did my laundry and manscaping (wash and shave) and fully refuelled for the next section!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    An old railway bridge near Narrandera
    2A Royal Spoonbill I think.Approaching Yanco WeirA ramshackle shelter. One of quite a few I've seenTonight's campsite at Middle BeachBruce and Belle. A couple of locals I had a good chat with

    Day 10

    March 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Distance travelled 350kms
    Next town Darlington Point

    Hi All,
    Paddling through some beautiful forest country today, part of the Murrumbidgee Valley National Park. Lots of great campsites whether you're in a camper or a kayak.
    Had to negotiate Yanco Weir today and again there are no facilities at all for portaging a kayak around the weir. The whole exercise again took about 1.5 hours and was really quite dangerous to both body and boat. I have resolved to send some suggestions to the Shire Council and NSW Water to get this improved. Still enjoying the adventure though, my fingers and thumbs are a bit sore from all the paddling, otherwise the body is holding up well.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    A raven not a crow according to Bruce. He rightly says they are one of the cleverest birds
    One of several camping spots along this part of the river.More Spoonbills. Very timid, they panic and fly away as soon as they sense human presenceGogelderie weir. 2 of the 6 gates openBrilliant campsites on every bend! Much better than the Murray which often had steep banks or cliffsA canal diverting water to Coleambally south of the river

    Day 11

    March 16, 2023 in Australia

    Distance travelled 382kms
    Next town Darlington Point

    Hi All,

    Had to negotiate Gogelderie weir today. Another epic performance which took over 2 hours. No more weirs until Hay thank goodness.
    Just finished listening to David Nicholls "Sweet Sorrow" audiobook. Highly recommended.
    Onwards to Darlington Point tomorrow and the promise of a pub meal.
    :-)
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Lots of these birds along the river. They're very timid so hard to get a good pic. Thoughts Michele?
    A sand washing plant. One of the very few pieces of infrastructure along the riverSome cockatoos having a well earned breakA serious pump station!1A beautiful old timber Homestead near Darlington PointCattle always seem very interested as I go by. Inquisitive creatures.Lots of gnarled old gum trees

    Day 12

    March 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Distance travelled 412kms
    Next town Carrathool

    Hi All,
    Woke up this morning to find the kayak floating free after the river had risen 20cm or so overnight and I had forgotten to tie it up (cardinal sin). Luckily the breeze was blowing it onto shore, otherwise it would have meant a search and rescue on the air mattress! Phew!
    Made it into the little town of Darlington Point where I have booked into the caravan park. Forecast temps of 39 and 41 for the weekend so I might stay here for a bit longer.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Lots of hi vis in the Punt Hotel being a Friday arvo. Happy and friendly.
    A nice little park in the middle of Darlington Point1Some sad historyShows what you can do with a transformer enclosure!1As per the mural, Murrumbidgee means "big water"The Punt Hotel served an excellent pork loin chop with chips and veges.A pretentious pump shedThis bird looks small in the photo but was quite massive. A sea eagle maybe??More and more pumps now, feeding the rice and cotton crops in the MIA

    Day 13

    March 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 39 °C

    Distance travelled 437kms
    Next town Carrathool

    I was going to spend the day in Darlington Point but have pressed on this afternoon.
    The lady in the caravan park told me yesterday there was a big group of vans coming in for a reunion this weekend and they had booked out the south end of the (small) van park. I camped right at the northern end just in case, but, of course, they ended up at the northern end too, about 50 metres from my tent. The boom box started at about 7pm then progressively got louder until about midnight. After that it was just loud partying until about 3am. The park Manager came over this morning to apologise to me. Said he had told them 3 times to pack it in and it had nearly come to blows. Give me a secluded beach on the river anytime, just not worth it for a hot shower!
    Moral of the story? Avoid caravan parks on a Friday night.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    A very well constructed pump station. Nice!
    A stately old Homestead on the riverbankStill lots of trees on the banks, even though it's the start of the rather barren Hay Plain

    Day 14

    March 19, 2023 in Australia

    Distance travelled 480kms
    Next town Carrathool

    Very hot today. It got to 41 degrees and sure felt like it. I paddled most of the day, stopping every hour or so for a quick dip which made it bearable. Super quite on the river apart from 4 jetskis that just blasted past with no acknowledgement at all. It sure broke the serenity spell!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Trying to fit in with the Locals with my beanie and singlet
    One of the many snags that stretch across the riverThe first pelican I 've seenInteresting patterns from vapour trailsOne of several old homesteads along the wayA burnout in the distanceA ramshackle old pump house which has clearly seen better days1The first houseboat I've come across!

    Day 15

    March 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 31 °C

    Distance travelled 510kms
    Next town Carrathool

    Much cooler today with a Max in the low 30's. I was going to push on to Carrathool for a pub dinner tonight but, of course, the one day it's not open is Monday! Going to call in tomorrow for lunch. Hopefully it's going to be the 4km walk from the river.
    All going well but lots of snags which need some careful concentration and manoeuvring.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    A dry creek bed near Carrathool
    A big snag across the full width of the riverThe historic Carrathool bridge . Similar to several along the MurrayCame across a group of cyclists "en tour" on my walk to the pubThe unbelievably flat and featureless Hay PlainA great little pub. Had it all to myself!Sean the Owner / barman / chef who I had a great chat with.

    Day 16

    March 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Distance travelled 530kms
    Next town Hay

    An easy day today of only 20kms or so, with a stop for lunch at the Carrathool pub. This required a 4km walk each way in the drizzle, but all worthwhile with Sean the Owner taking my rubbish (literally), refilling my water containers and shouting me a drink. A nice fella.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    More yellow billed spoonbills1A lot more pump stations now. A lot of them just discharge the water into an unlined channel. :-(

    Day 17

    March 22, 2023 in Australia

    Distance travelled 565 kms
    Next town Hay

    A very quiet day on the river. No people, no boats, just the distant rumble of trucks on the nearby Sturt Highway as a reminder of civilisation.
    M

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    A bush bolthole
    The size of some of the logs on the bank is amazing. Pulled out during the paddlesteamer days maybeDucks everywhere here!The snag blocking the riverLooks like a Government facility. Possibly the Hay water supplyNo shortage of bin chickens along the river

    Day 18

    March 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Distance travelled 600kms
    Next town Hay

    It started raining about midnight last night and kept going on and off until lunchtime today, together with thunder and lightning most of the time. It's now very humid, so I assume this is some weather which has come down from the tropics.
    Hit a big snag across the river today and had to walk along the banks each side to see if I could portage it as it appeared impassable on the water. The portage would have meant emptying the kayak and pulling it up a 5m high slippery clay bank then over 2 barbed wire fences. No thanks! Eventually threaded my way through, pushing the branches away as I went. Hopefully there won't be any more like that one!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    1Spot the bird. Amazing camouflage!
    Kasey Chambers playing in Hay tonightThe Hay Bowling Club where I had a very nice Chicken and cashew nut dinner. No bowls unfortunatelyThe rinks not as good as Walkerville...Lots of nice gardens in Hay1The Amazing "Bishops Lodge" built in 18881Water tower art. Quite amazingHay Court House, now a museumSome nicely restored buildings in the main street

    Days 19-20

    March 24, 2023 in Australia

    Distance travelled 638kms
    Next town Maude

    Hi All,
    Spent a nice relaxing day wandering around Hay. I think you get to see and absorb more when you do it on foot rather than by car even if it is more tiring. Hay seems much bigger than its official 3000 population, with the quite prosperous main street stretching for nearly 2kms with many beautifully restored old buildings.
    Election day today in NSW. It's going to be close by all accounts.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Matt from Callington
    A drill rig en route from Adelaide to SydneyLots of dead trees due to permanent flooding upstream of the weir1An Eagles nest which must have been at least 1 metre in diameterDownstream of Hay weir

    Day 21

    March 26, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Distance travelled 674kms
    Next town Maude

    Had a chat with Matt from Callington in the caravan park last night. He was very interested in my Murrumbidgee trip. Told him I also did Albury to Goolwa on the Murray last year in 65 days. He said he kayaked the Murray from Bringenbrong to Goolwa (200kms more than I did) in 2019 in 30 days including 5 rest days. Said he was doing 100 - 130kms a day, usually finishing well after dark after having started at first light, and he did this in a cheap plastic kayak. Total legend! Mind you he was in his late 20's when he did it.
    Went through the Hay weir this afternoon, comparatively easy compared to the previous ones.
    All going well.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Lots of piled up debris from the recent floods
    I have seen plenty of paw prints I assumed were foxes. Finally got to see them . Very brazen!Pumping stations raise water from the river and discharge into an unlined channel for irrigation2Not yellow sand, but a mass of mini "tumbleweeds"Wide river, hardly any snags, no wind, all good!!!

    Day 22

    March 27, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Distance travelled 710kms
    Next town Maude

    A lovely quiet day. Lots of wildlife, no humans. So serene. If you want to camp on the 'Bidgee this is the area to do it in!
    M

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    It's amazing there is any water left in the river with all these pump stations
    1Grotesque but at the same time beautifulRustic old shacks are at regular intervals. Lots of them abandonedExit point for Maude weir. The brown surface is from bark fragments about 100mm thickSome type of hawk I think. They glide, criss-crossing the river for hours at a timeThe Post Office Hotel at Maude. The other 3 patrons were smoking in the beer gardenStuffed steak with veg and chips. Highly recommended next time you're in MaudeMaude main street

    Day 23

    March 28, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Distance travelled 740kms
    Next town Balranald

    I was racing to get the 30kms done in the morning so I could have lunch at the Post Office Hotel in Maude. I discovered that the Maude weir had to be portaged first, and this took 2.5 hours and a lot of grunting and cursing, lowering the long suffering kayak down a steep muddy bank with a rope. Made it to the pub for dinner, an iconic Outback pub, complete with some blue singleted workers, well used 4WD's out the front, and strangely, a young Estonian bartender!
    Heading into a remote section of about 200kms before Balranald.
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    Sunrise on a beautiful still morning
    A bit of ducking and weaving required through this snagA few cattle1Another white chested sea eagleA nice wide section of the riverA Goat and her kidOne of the few homesteads in this part of the riverAn Australasian Bittern (thanks Michele)

    Days 24-25

    March 30, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Distance travelled 787kms
    Next town Balranald

    A very remote part of the river, I have not seen another person or boat since leaving Maude 2 days ago. There is the odd Homestead and shanty, otherwise no signs of civilisation and no mobile coverage. Not as much wildlife as I would have thought, a herd of goats, the odd cow and what I think was a feral pig grunting and snorting near my tent last night. Still plenty of birds though.
    Redbank weir is coming up tomorrow, the last one thankfully.
    All going well except I have multiple little bites on my torso. Not mosquito bites, but I wonder if they are some type of flea or mite. Sprayed the bedding with repellent, so hopefully that will sort it out!
    M    Read more

  • River Murray paddleMurrumbidgee River 2023Traveler
    1A very muscular roo and partner
    These regulators control the flow of river water into and out of the swamps beyond2Hunting seems to be pretty popular out hereA pigdoggers ute complete with heavy duty cage for the dogs on the back.I think an egret chick. The Nest was only about 1m above the river1An abandoned bridge. Fortunately the river was low enough that there was still 1m or so clearanceThe very picturesque Balranald bridge over the Murrumbidgee1The winners arch into Balranald

    Days 26 - 28

    April 2, 2023 in Australia

    Distance travelled 922kms
    Next town Boundary Bend

    Finally made it into Balranald after a long 5 day paddle from Maude during which the only people I saw was 2 guys in a tinnie, so very isolated. The Nanga National Park borders the river for most of this section, so more wildlife now, kangaroos, emus, native water rats and even a couple of tortoises sitting on a log who plopped into the river when they saw me, and of course, lots of birds.
    I passed the point where Captain Sturt put his whaleboat into the Murrumbidgee, there is a blazed tree there apparently but I missed it. They rowed down to the Murray Mouth only to find it was unsuitable for shipping, so then rowed the 1500kms back upstream against the current. Phew!
    Negotiated Redbank weir, the final one, with the usual amount of stress and difficulty.
    Rest day tomorrow, then 3 days paddle down to the Murray Junction at Boundary Bend to finish.
    M    Read more

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