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Around the World in 180 Days
  • Kadi Kaljuste
  • Brad Ciccarelli

Around the World in 180 Days

January 14 to July 13, 2023 from San Francisco to San Francisco aboard Oceania Insignia Read more
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  • Around the World in 180 Days
    1The drive gave us a slice of life
    A beautifully restored buildingA neglected building2The former residence of the governor is a museum now1Lunch at a beach resort1Teddy bears are universal ❤️Women selling bagged water on the highway1ChurchMuseum in AbidjanOur escorts

    Abidjan, Ivory Coast

    March 22, 2023 in Ivory Coast ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Another new country for us so we took an Oceania excursion to Grand Bassam, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, as well as to museums and markets. There were only two excursions to choose from so ours had SIX buses and the other excursion had six as well and each was a full day with lunch. What we didn’t expect was that all six buses would travel as a convoy with three motorcycle police officers as escorts and that the convoy would be tailed by an ambulance!?! It was quite the sight!

    Grand Bassam was the first capital of Côte d’Ivoire. It was the country’s most important port, and economic and judicial centre when the country was a French colony. Most of the colonial buildings were constructed between 1893, when the city became the capital, and 1900.

    It took about 90 minutes to get there even though it was only about 60 kilometres away. The drive there gave us a chance to get an idea of how people here live. It was clear that the majority have a hard life.

    Once we reached Grand Bassam, we drove around the town and saw some of the buildings that have been restored as well as others that have been abandoned and are suffering the wear of time. (It’s unlikely the country has the resources to restore them.) We then visited a museum and a beach resort, for lunch, returning to Abidjan to see another museum, a church and a craft market.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    A military officer gave us a tour of the fish market
    Colourful chaosAt the market pierSign spotted at the fish market1Our bus was fancyAt Market Circle1

    Sekondi-Takoradi, Ghana

    March 23, 2023 in Ghana ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Ghana! Another new country for us so we once again took an Oceania excursion. This time we had a three-bus convoy and a police car escort.

    Sekondi-Takoradi are twin cities. Both the Dutch and British settled in Sekondi and it flourished as a port in the early 1900s when the railroad connected it to the gold mines in the country’s interior. But its port became commercially obsolete with the opening of the harbour in Takoradi in 1928. Sekondi and Takoradi became one city in 1963.

    Our tour took us on a panoramic drive past many sights and then to a huge fish market and a performance of traditional Ghanaian songs and dances. The fish market was incredible! So much colour and chaos.

    We got back to the ship at 12:30 pm and hopped right onto the shuttle bus to “Market Circle,” a huge market that’s currently being redeveloped. The vendors from the market have spilled onto the streets making it a fun shopping experience. We had learned from our excellent tour guide that cocoa is Ghana’s number one industry and our mission was to find Ghanaian chocolate 🍫.

    We went to a grocery store and they only sold Nestle brand. 🥲 We asked the cashiers where to find local chocolate and they sent us to “You 84,“ a competing store. We set off in the direction they sent us but wanted to confirm we were headed in the right direction. We saw a few women chatting on a corner and one of them immediately confirmed we could buy local chocolate at You 84 and pulled a chocolate bar out of her purse to show us what to look for. She then said she wanted someone to walk us there and stopped two random young girls selling wares from bowls carried on their heads to take us there. They did. A perfect anecdote of how lovely we found Ghanaians.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    Streetscape
    1Fetish MarketClassroomWalking home for lunchLibation ceremonyThe king3Village walkCity street market1Togo Toga party

    Lome, Togo

    March 24, 2023, Gulf of Guinea

    Togo is a new country for us so we took an excursion to the Fetish (voodoo) Market😫, a school and a village.

    About 48 per cent of Togolese are Christian, 33 per cent follow traditional religions and 19 per cent follow Islam. Traditional religions have priests who create cures and potions from a range of unusual ingredients like powdered chameleon, horse’s skull or lion’s teeth. That’s what’s sold at the Fetish Market in Lome - the world’s largest. You can also have a consultation there and have an amulet created to protect you (we passed on that.) we expected it to be larger and stinkier than it was. Fascinating.

    We then drove to a village and visited a public (read free) primary school with about 400 students. They were excited to have us visit. The photos will show you how basic their school is. We learned that having public schools was a relatively recent development in Togo.

    From there, we visited a village with a traditional king. A libation ceremony was performed to welcome us along with performances by drummers and dancers. We were then encouraged to walk around and explore the village.

    We returned to the ship and grabbed the shuttle into the market area of downtown Lome. Wow! Bustling with vendors and tons of motorcycles. A great experience.

    Back on board and dinner with our friends Geraldine and Thomas at Toscana. There was a Togo Toga party onboard tonight but we didn’t feel like dressing up but did go check it out.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    4Lègba. the messenger of all voodoo godsThe tree that was King Kpassè37Memorial to slavery. The balls represent the ball and chainsGate of no ReturnVoodoo templeBenin Amazone statue is 30 metres tall

    Cotonou, Benin

    March 25, 2023 in Benin ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    Another new country for us so we took an Oceania excursion to “The City of Voodoo,” Ouidah. It’s considered a must-see town in Benin for anyone interested in Voodoo and/or slave history. Voodoo is believed to have started here and is still practiced by anywhere from 40 to 70 per cent of its people, depending on who you ask. In addition, Ouidah’s Gate of No Return and the Slave Route are a UNESCO World Heritage Site commemorating the kidnapping of about a million Africans and their sale into slavery.

    Our first stop was to The Sacred Forest which houses many shrines dedicated to various Voodoo deities. Believers come there for their ritual practices, divine inspiration and even initiation ceremonies. The forest became sacred when, centuries ago, one of the kings turned himself into a tree so he wouldn’t be captured by enemies. Voodoo worshipers believe that if you touch the tree and make a wish, it will definitely come true. (Btw, our guide had scars from cuts on the top of her hands, one set from her initiation and another to protect her.)

    We then visited the temple dedicated to the Sacred Python, believed to offer vitality and protection. Brad and I each met the python! We also visited the former Slave House, a memorial to slavery situated on the site of the former slave market, and the Gate of No Return, a monument built by the Benin Government. We ended our tour with a visit to a Voodoo Temple.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    Fort that is now a museum
    Replica slave quarters2Brad sampling smoked fishObligatory churchPresidential palaceStreetscapeThe market1Equator ceremony

    São Tomé and Príncipe

    March 27, 2023 in São Tomé and Príncipe ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Sao Tome and Principe is a new country for us so we took an excursion. It's the second smallest country in Africa and consists of two islands, São Tomé and Príncipe, and a number of smaller islands.

    From the late 1400s, Portugal began settling convicts on Sao Tome and establishing sugar and cocoa plantations with the help of slaves from the mainland. Hence, the language spoken here is Portuguese. São Tomé doesn’t really have a lot of tourists yet; only three or four small cruise ships visit each year. That said, our guide was terrific.

    Our tour took us to a fort that is now a museum, a village, a church (of course), Independence Square and the market. Following the tour, Brad and I stayed in town and explored a bit but it was too hot for us - 29 and very humid. We’re almost at the equator.

    In fact, we crossed the equator in the afternoon and the traditional ceremony took place on the pool deck. Brad and I have crossed the equator a number of times so we’re “shellbacks.” You can read more about it here: https://www.atlasobscura.com/articles/behind-th…

    We’ll now be at sea for three days.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    2The menu
    Pasties appetizerCoquille St. JacquesDessert

    At sea

    March 28, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    A leisurely day at sea and a special dinner for Around the world passengers tonight. Delicious.

  • Around the World in 180 Days

    At sea

    March 29, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Second of three at sea days. Had our usual routine and then I went to afternoon tea🫖 for a change.

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    1Brad's been making gnomes on at sea days
    3A wee plant, an Archer god and the model car Brad built1His and hers voodoo dolls from Togo and a mask from Côte D'Ivoire1Magnets on the ceiling over our bed

    At sea

    March 30, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We’re now on day 75 of 180 and have truly settled in. One of the things we’ve done is personalized our stateroom a little with some items we’ve picked over the course of our travels or that Brad has created. The photos tell the story.Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    Walking in the Township
    Street vendors selling dried wild spinach and bags of dried caterpillarsVisiting a familyA yardVisiting a naturopathTraditional foods: a porridge, a sauce, spinach and caterpillarsCaterpillars were salty and would be a great bar snackThe JettyNamib desert dunes

    Walvis Bay, Namibia (Day 1 of 2)

    March 31, 2023 in Namibia

    Arrived in Walvis Bay this morning. Brad and I spent two weeks in Namibia as part of our 25th anniversary celebration trip in 2018 so we didn’t feel the need to do a typical tour here. We chose an excursion that took us on a walking tour of a township in nearby Swakopmund. But before anyone could venture ashore, we had to go through an in person passport check with Namibian immigration officials. Oceania had organized it well and it wasn’t onerous at all.

    Namibia’s history is complicated but key to understanding the country is its German colonization followed by it becoming part of South Africa and Apartheid. Namibia only gained independence in 1993. It’s an incredibly young country.

    Our tour headed to Mondesa Township (slum), a remnant of Apartheid and in stark contrast to the German colonial buildings in downtown Swakopmund. We took a walk around the community, visited a family, visited a naturopath who explained traditional remedies, sampled Namibian food, walked on the Jetty and saw the dunes. The township population is about 25,000, about 70 per cent of Swakopmund’s population.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    Collecting the magnetite
    Tada!Working lighthouseLovely streetscapeGerman influence is pronouncedCafé breakCharm2Guinea fowl crossing 🤣

    Walvis Bay, Namibia (Day 2 of 2)

    April 1, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    No excursion for us today because we wanted a laid back day strolling around the quaint city of Swakopmund which we remember fondly from our 2018 trip here. We hired a driver to take us there and meet us later to bring us back to the port. He was a lovely Namibian guy named Andreas.

    As we were driving along the highway, sand dunes on either side, Andreas asked whether we knew why some of the dunes looked dirty. We told him we didn’t and he said he’d explain it to us. A few kilometres later, when a dirty dune was near the side of the road he pulled over and took a baggie with a small black thing in it and jumped out of the van, telling us to follow him. When we reached the dirty dune, he explained that the black thing was a magnet and wiped it over the sand. The baggie-covered magnet was now encrusted with black things: magnetite. It’s an iron that never rusts. So interesting!

    We then carried on to Swakopmund and we wandered around until he picked us up in the afternoon. It’s a charming city with lovely shops and cafes. The weather is cooler here, around 19 degrees, so really pleasant.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    DesertedView from a broken windowThe landscapeGeneral StoreThe town's supply train/taxiReconstructed bedroom

    Kolmanskop, Namibia (Luderitz)

    April 2, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    The port at which we arrived this morning is actually called Luderitz but we spent the morning at a town about 15 minutes away - a ghost town called Kolmanskop. 👻 In 1908, Kolmanskop was simply a small railway station. That is until a railway worker found a shiny stone and took it to his boss, an amateur mineralogist. It was indeed a diamond and it didn’t take long for the area to be booming as Germans moved there and recreated a German town in the middle of the desert.

    In 1928, other diamond sites were discovered to the south and those in Kolmanskop were depleted. People moved south. The last inhabitant left Kolmanskop by 1960. In the ‘80s, it was redeveloped as a historic/tourism site and some houses were dug out of the sand and restored. We found it quite fascinating.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    StreetscapeLutheran churchA lawyer built this house, brought his wife from Germany over. She went back after 14 monthsView from the houseThe town was soooo quiet this dog slept in the middle of the street

    Luderitz, Namibia

    April 2, 2023 in Namibia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    This afternoon. we took a walking tour of this surreal German town plunked in Africa. The town has a unique setting between the Namib Desert and the windy South Atlantic coast. While Swakopmund yesterday felt lively and charming, Luderitz today felt like being in a time warp. Now, it was Sunday, and the town was dead, which may have contributed to our impression. The buildings are beautiful but they feel out of place.Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    1

    At sea

    April 3, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Routine at sea day. This “segment “ of the cruise ends in a couple of days so there was an exhibit today of what the passengers have produced in their art classes, including some wonderful pieces by our friends Mui and Boris.Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    Arriving at the winery
    Tablescape1The settingCheers!Yum.1Great musicSo prettyIdyllicAt the V & A Waterfront

    Cape Town, South Africa (Day 1 of 3)

    April 4, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    Cape Town! We spent more than a week here when our son was completing his semester studying abroad at the University of Cape Town in 2015 so we know the city somewhat. It’s a beautiful city and we’re delighted to be back.

    Today, we attended a special Oceania event for around the world passengers at a winery called Boschendal about an hour outside of Cape Town. It was simply spectacular. The setting was gorgeous and the weather was perfect. And the wine, food and music? Wonderful.

    We arrived back at the ship in the early evening and set off to explore the V&A Waterfront which is reminiscent of NYC’s South Street Seaport.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    The prison gateOur tour guide spent seven years imprisoned hereA prisoner's bedThe fourth window from the left was Mandela's cellMandela spent 18 years in this cell1View of Table Mountain from Robben IslandAfrican penguin colonyDrinks with our friend Gideon2Game meat feast at Karibu Restaurant1Panoramic view of Cape Town from the ferry

    Cape Town, South Africa (Day 2 of 3)

    April 5, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    An early morning excursion for us today. When we were last here, we had tickets to visit Robben Island on our final day in Cape Town but the trip was cancelled because the waters were too rough for the ferry to make the crossing. Today, the conditions were excellent and we got there.

    Robben Island was a common stopping point for passing ships in the 16th and early 17th centuries and was a Dutch and then a British penal colony. The island housed a leper colony from 1846 to 1931. From the mid-1960s to 1991, the Island served as South Africa’s maximum-security prison. Nelson Mandela was imprisoned there from 1964 to 1982. It’s now a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Interestingly, it’s also home to a colony of African penguins. Tours on the island are conducted by former prisoners. Ours was led by a man who was a political activist and spent seven years there.

    In the afternoon, we had drinks with a friend from Cape Town we met on a trip to the Galápagos Islands in 2018. Wonderful to catch up in real life rather than through Facebook after so many years.

    Brad and I then feasted on game meat - kudu, springbok, impala and ostrich - at a South African restaurant on the waterfront for dinner.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    1The Mount Nelson
    The gardensLobbyAll setThe menuCheers!🥂I chose South African honey bush tea😋Course 1: savouryCourse 2: sconesCourse 3: pastries2Course 4: cake buffet

    Cape Town, South Africa (Day 3 of 3)

    April 6, 2023, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Our final day in Cape Town so we decided to be low key. I went for a manicure/pedicure in the morning and we then went for the noon sitting of afternoon tea at the legendary Mount Nelson Hotel. (I’d made the reservation months ago.) Its tea time is truly next level. The setting is spectacular to start with.

    The menu is incredible - a four course tea with a choice of 40 teas and a glass of champagne. Course one is savoury and includes finger and open face sandwiches, tarts and empanadas. Course two is scones and madeleines. Course three is pastries. And course four is a cake buffet if you’re not full enough! Oh my.

    Best. Teatime. Ever.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    1OstrichWildebeestCape buffaloRhinosImpalaImpala and springbokAfrican elephant3🎼In the jungle...🎵

    Mossel Bay, South Africa

    April 7, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We’ve never been to Mossel Bay before but decided to forego exploring this resort town and instead take an excursion to a private game reserve about an hour away. Mossel Bay is a tender port which means you have to take a tender boat to go ashore. That typically means a longer process to get on the road. That was certainly the case today.

    We were an hour delayed boarding our bus. Not unexpected. But what WAS unexpected was the bus driver missing a turn off and driving a half hour past it!!! Ahhhhh, Africa. Expect the unexpected.

    Fortunately, we had a terrific driver/guide for the game drive and he managed to get us around the reserve and see four of the big five. (The big five are: African elephant, rhinoceros, lion, leopard, and Cape buffalo And we couldn’t have seen the fifth, the leopard, because there are none on the property. While it doesn’t rival the safaris we’ve done at other African national game parks, it was a wonderful day in a gorgeous setting.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    1Boris and the penguin painting he gave me❤️

    At sea

    April 8, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Today’s an “at sea” day. I had a pilates class this morning and Brad walked the deck track. We’ll do some reading. I’ll go back to the gym and walk the treadmill. And we have the Captain’s cocktail party tonight as well as a dinner reservation at Toscana, the Italian specialty restaurant.

    There are a range of organized activities scheduled for at sea days, from golf putting competitions and wine tastings to trivia contests and art classes. I’ve been a regular at the fitness classes and joined a trivia team for this segment. The art classes have spawned some talented artists, including our new friend Boris who paints, among other things…penguins! He honoured me with a gift of one of his works today. 🥰    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    The Promenade
    Five kilometres of pathsSkylineCheeky and boldA car like the one Mandela was driving when he was arrestedPhoto galleryLong walk to freedomThe markers on the walk mark milestones in Mandela's life2The walk culminates in this spectacular iron monument1Close up they're just iron sticks1Howick Falls

    Durban, South Africa

    April 9, 2023 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Arrived in Durban this morning, a new city for us. Since we had an excursion booked for the afternoon, we decided to head out on our own in the morning. Durban is a city of around four million on the shores of the Indian Ocean. Because we had an emphatic safety warning announcement on board in the morning we asked our South African friends on board what we should do and they suggested we walk on the waterfront Promenade.

    We went to get a taxi outside the terminal to take us to the promenade and the driver didn’t want to take us! He said it wasn’t safe for us to walk there. We said he could drive us there and we’d make a judgment call once we saw the area and determine whether we’d get out or not. He relented and said he’d take us to the casino area, the only spot he’d be willing to leave us. We did see many unhoused people along the way there but there were lots of families out walking given it’s Easter Sunday so we told him to pick us up at the same spot 90 minutes later. He was there to pick us up as agreed and confessed that he shadowed us in his car!

    In the afternoon, we headed to a spot about 90 minutes away that is known as the Mandela Capture Site where he was arrested on August 5, 1962 while pretending to be a chauffeur. He subsequently spent 27 years in prison. The site has been developed into a wonderful museum with a spectacular monument. When the monument is viewed from the right angle, the poles take the shape of Mandela’s face. So worth visiting. We then went to the largest waterfall in the region.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    Sign as you enter the mall
    Stocking up🍷One of the bottles we bought for $8.78 CanadianWhat it would cost at home

    Richards Bay, South Africa

    April 10, 2023, Indian Ocean ⋅ 🌧 23 °C

    Richards Bay was new to us but after consulting our South African friends on board we didn’t feel there was anything particularly interesting for us in this port. We decided to simply take the shuttle to the mall and stock up on South African wine as we head to Asian ports. Wine is incredibly inexpensive here relative to home. For example, Kadette Pinotage cost us $8.78 Canadian today. It would be about $26 at home.Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days
    Our guide Hendy in front of the train station
    The station is stunningThe fortBotanical Gardens11Iron house designed by Gustave Eiffel.CathedralIndependence Square1Cashews galore at the market2And hair! 🎼 Gimme a head with hair Long, beautiful hair Shining, gleaming Streaming, flaxen...The red light district. Hotel rooms by the hour

    Maputo, Mozambique

    April 11, 2023 in Mozambique ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We’ve never been to Mozambique before and we were pleased to have been included in a private walking tour of Maputo organized by our friend Erin. Our guide, Hendy, was terrific. He gave us a solid overview of Mozambique’s Portuguese colonial past as well as its independence and civil war.

    While Maputo is a city of over a million people, the city’s key landmarks were an easy walk from the port and we managed to cover them comfortably in three hours (and about 11,000 steps😉). The city screams colonial and the buildings that have been maintained, like the train station, are stunning. We also visited various monuments, a fort that’s also a museum, the cathedral, Independence Square, the botanical gardens, the iron house designed by Gustave Eiffel, and the market. The market is renowned for its hair section!?! Once the tour was over, Brad and I did a bit of exploring in the market area on our own.    Read more

  • Around the World in 180 Days

    At sea

    April 13, 2023, Mozambique Channel ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    Another relaxing day at sea. We had a wonderful happy hour get-together for the Canadians on board. There are about 75 of us on board and the turnout was great. We’d met a number of fellow Canadians already and met many more tonight. There are people here from Nova Scotia, Quebec, Ontario, Alberta and B.C.Read more

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