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Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
  • Kadi Kaljuste
  • Brad Ciccarelli
  • Kadi Kaljuste
  • Brad Ciccarelli

Morocco, Spain + hospital stay

The plan: Touring Morocco, road trip in Spain, trekking gorillas in Rwanda, visiting our friends Geraldine and Thomas in South Africa, and a couple of nights in Frankfurt on the way home. The reality: plans scuttled in Spain by Brad’s cardiac stroke En savoir plus
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  • Début du voyage
    12 février 2026
  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    It was windy and overcast
    Sacre Coeur CathedralInside the cathedralIt did rain for a bitIt clear why locals call it "Pigeon Square"A woman selling bird feedStreet vendor making us a snackThe secret sauce? Moroccan Nutella, a mixture of almonds and honey1Yum!In the art deco French areaImpressive display from a street vendorClock towerGates to MarakeshWhere in orange territory1SynagogueSome entertainmentMosqueSynagogueChurch42Rick's Cafe recreation2Saw lots of stray cats

    Hello, Casablanca!

    13 février, Maroc ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Following a good overnight flight, we arrived in Casablanca mid morning and transferred to our hotel by noon. Not surprisingly, our room wasn’t ready so we decided to hang out in the lobby in the hopes that one would be ready soon. We were fortunate and by 1 o’clock we were in a room and able to take a short nap before joining a Guru Walk at 3:45.

    Morocco was ruled by France from 1912 to 1956. As a result, there is evidence of that period in the architecture as well as the sidewalk cafés. French is also the second official language after Moroccan Arabic..

    Our guide Yahya led six of us (a couple from Australia, another from Spain and us) . We started out from Sacre Coeur Cathedral and visited The Arab League Park, Mohammed V Square, known as pigeon square to the locals as well as to numerous other sites.

    Our tour ended at Rick's Café, inspired by the fictional café featured in the 1942 film "Casablanca" It opened in 2004 and was designed to recreate in reality the set of the bar made famous by Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman. It’s a tourist trap and we had no desire to go in.

    Following the tour we had a light dinner at our hotel and relaxed after a full day.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Cafe seats face out and men sit there watching women.
    The palace areaAnother stealth photo of the palace areaThe soukThe oldest bakery in CasablancaThe tile entryway was spectacularIt was so busy. There is a further room that was packed.1The lovely man who gave us one of his pastries3Olives!A tramway attendant guided us through the process and walked us to our stop.2On the tram2The fish marketCleaning our squid we'll have for lunch1Walking our seafood to the restaurantDinner timeThe menuThe view from our terrace tableBrad chose a Moroccan wine, appropriately named tandem❤️61Amuse bouche1Appetizer2EntreesDessert4Brad's a good sport

    Exploring + Valentine’s dinner

    14 février, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We didn’t have any set schedule today, so had a leisurely breakfast and then set out walking to a neighbourhood called Habbous, also known as New Medina. It’s packed with open-air markets or souks where you can bargain for clothes, fabrics, and Moroccan staples like olives and dried fruits. The king’s palace is in the area too.

    We decided to start with the king’s palace area. Our guide yesterday had told us that the palace is strictly off-limits. As we approached the area, it became obvious that it was well guarded with guard booths every 50 m. As soon as I held up my camera, I’d get a wave with a wagged finger from the guards. I did manage to capture a stealth photo or two of the area.

    We found the market area and did a fair bit of exploring there. We visited the oldest bakery in the city but the line was long so we bailed. As we walked along, we saw a couple with a pastry box from a different bakery and asked where it was and what they’d bought. In a flash, the man opened the box insisting we take one! So lovely.

    Next stop was to visit the Central Market in another area of the city. It’s famous for its fresh fish and seafood and the attached restaurants which will immediately cook whatever you purchased at the market. That would be our lunch. Casablanca has a sleek tramway so we took the tram to the market.

    Once we entered Central Market, we were quickly swarmed by people asking to cook whatever we bought. We chose a woman, bought some squid and shrimps, had it cleaned and followed her to the adjoining restaurant. It was terrific.

    Following lunch, we walked around the area and then headed back to our hotel to have a bit of a rest before our Valentine’s dinner reservation at Dar Dada. I had made the reservation a few weeks ago before leaving home. Dar Dada is one of Casablanca‘s best restaurants, known for its classic Moroccan cuisine with a contemporary spin. It’s also situated in a renovated riad. I didn’t find out until yesterday that they have entertainment as well.

    The restaurant was as beautiful as we imagined, and the food was delicious. And the entertainment? A violinist and belly dancers! Such fun.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    The mosque minaret
    The mosque outdoor area accommodates 80,000Murano glass chandeliersLight peeping through the retractable roofSpeakers are discreetly built into the columnsBrad in silhouetteRepairs in preparation for RamadanLower level washing areaThe tapsThe Atlantic Ocean is behind the mosqueThe cornicheLots of graffiti and murals along the walkButcher in the old MedinaNarrow lanesChickensVegetable vendorCats are EVERYWHERE1Evening clock tower viewOld Medina at night

    More Casablanca and joining our tour

    15 février, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Another relaxed breakfast time and then off to the Hassan II Mosque, the third largest in the world. We had a guided tour which was rich with stats. It took six years and 2,500 workers to complete and is built on landfill. It can accommodate 25,000 inside, 80,000 outside. At 200 metres long, a hundred metres wide, 65 metres high the dimensions total 365, the number of days of the year.

    Its marble and granite are from Morocco while its 57 chandeliers are from Murano, Italy. It has a heated floor, a retractable roof and 360 speakers. The lower level hall for washing before prayer has 350 taps, 58 small fountains but no towels. Mind blowing.

    The mosque is situated on the Atlantic Ocean and at the start of the city’s corniche/waterfront. It was sunny and about 16 degrees Celsius, perfect for walking its four kilometres.

    From there we meandered back to our hotel through the old Medina to rest before meeting our G Adventures National Geographic Journeys tour leader and fellow travellers for a meeting about the two weeks ahead.

    At the meeting, we learned our leader is from Morocco’s Atlas Mountains and has been a leader for about a decade. Our travel companions are two other Canadian couples, two couples and a single man from the U.S. and a woman from Switzerland. (Good to have Switzerland in the mix😉)

    We went to dinner with the leader and the singletons at a traditional Moroccan restaurant. The other travellers took a pass since we’re on the road tomorrow from 7:15 a.m.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    In Meknes
    The music museumMuseum garden1Narrow streets of the Medina1Roman ruins Volubilis in the distance2Brad as a bustWe had tea made for us at the women's organization.

    Meknès, Volubilis and Fez

    16 février, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We set off early this morning to visit two UNESCO World Heritage sites. First, we visited the medieval city of Meknès, which served as Morocco’s imperial capital in the 17th century. It was built by Sultan Moulay Ismail who, according to the Guinness Book of World Records, fathered 888 children — the highest number of offspring for anyone throughout history that can be verified.

    Our visit began with a tour of Dar Jamai: The National Museum of Music. From there we carried on to Bab Mansour historic landmark, and 18th-century Bab El Khmiss, the
    ornamental gate to the city. We also walked the narrow streets of the Medina.

    Next, we drove to Volubilis to see the
    soaring columns and preserved mosaic floors of this ancient Roman outpost. It was listed as a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1997.

    Our final visit for the day was to AFER Association for lunch. AFER benefits rural Moroccan women and children who are facing challenges from divorce, disability or being widowed.

    The association provides literacy and vocational training, health
    services, disability assistance, and the operation of a local ambulance. AFER’s training center hosts culinary programs and each year graduates 30 students. We met the founder and some of the beneficiaries. AFER is supported by G Adventures, the Toronto-based tour company with which we’re travelling. An inspiring visit.

    We drove on to Fez, checked into our hotel and took a little walk around the neighbourhood. We’ll explore the city tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    The palace gates
    The Jewish Quarter1There is a plan to restore more of the buildings3Little person doorView of the old city. About 150,000 people live here.The "blue gate" to the old cityCeramic paintingPreparing tiles for mosaics1Making a mosaic. The pattern is faced down.1Finished products2Some of the alleyways are so narrow you almost need to walk sidewaysCoppersmithCamel butcherShark headsA community ovenDying service. These are jeans.Oldest continuously operating university in the world3In the dorm window at a madrasaOur group at the madrasa2A mosque with a cat greeter2The tannery operates still using traditional methodsDye vatsThe workers stand in the vats in hip wadersThe smells are strong. We here given a sprig of mint to sniffCalligraphy workshopOur names in Arabic at the top; Brad's on the left and mine on the right

    Old City of Fez

    17 février, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    We had a jampacked tour of Fez today concentrating on the Old City of Fez, primarily known as Fès el-Bali, a 9th-century UNESCO World Heritage site and the world's largest car-free urban area. It’s a dense, labyrinth filled with medieval architecture, bustling souks, traditional tanneries, and historic madrasas.

    We started out at the gates of the King’s Palace. Like the palace in Casablanca, it’s closed to the public. Built in the 13/14th century, the palace is still in use and has been updated over the years. It now even includes an 18-hole golf course. The same family has ruled Morocco since 1666. The present King was educated in France and is seen as progressive having married a commoner. His wife is also the first ever to be seen in public.

    Next, we toured the Jewish Quarter which at one time had a population of about 20,000.

    We moved on to the heart of the old city dating from the 9th century. It’s a maze of more than 9,000 narrow alleyways. We were grateful we had a guide! Within its walls is Al Quaraouiyine Mosque, the world’s longest continuously operating university established in 857.

    The old city has also retained its artisan community including mosaic and ceramic makers, coppersmiths, and the Chouara Tannery, a historic, 11th-century tannery that still operates using traditional methods. It was jaw-dropping, like a living museum.

    Our final activity was attending a calligraphy workshop where we learned about the art of Arabic calligraphy.

    After a long, busy day we had a restful evening in.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Minaret in the old city
    The squareDinner time1Forgot to take a picture before we ate🤣1Our tour leader front left and our travel companions231

    Hello, Marrakesh/Marrakech

    18 février, Maroc ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    We left Fez this morning and drove about six hours to Marrakech. (There are two spellings; both are right.) It’s a city of about 1.5 million and was established in 1070. It’s known as the red city because the buildings in the old city are built from red sandstone.

    Once we arrived in the city, our guide spotted a liquor/wine store that was open so we could stock up on alcoholic beverages before Ramadan starts tomorrow and alcohol won’t be sold. We picked up a few bottles of wine and beer.

    We checked in to our hotel and had a couple of hours to relax before setting off to Jemaa el-Fnaa, a square in the old Medina. In 2001, it was proclaimed an Intangible Cultural Heritage by UNESCO, and in 2008 it was included in UNESCO's List of Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

    We arrived there at sunset as the buskers were packing up. We’re coming back tomorrow so we’ll get to see them then. It’s a lively environment reminiscent of a midway or fair. We made our way to one of the casual traditional restaurants for dinner. Looking forward to returning in daylight tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Bahia Palace
    Bird's eye viewThe detailIn the Medina sukThe Secret GardenView of the garden from a balconyDonkey carts in the market are commonplace1The restaurant in a riad where we'll cook our lunch and then eat itReady!4Hair net and gloves....😆1Notice our yawning instructorThe tagine ready to be cookedApple and cabbage saladPeppers and tomatoesEggplant and tomatoesTada! Unveiling our tagineServing the tagine1SpicesGrinding argan for oil. Roasted argan oil (left) is for eating. Natural on the right is for beauty.Dinner spot1It was stunning

    Marrakesh Medina

    19 février, Maroc ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Today we went back to the Old City which is surrounded by 19 km of walls. Marrakesh was Morocco’s capital in 12th and again in the 16th century. Today, it’s the country’s most visited tourist destination.

    We visited the Bahia Palace, 150 rooms on eight hectares from the late 19th century. It was the home of the prime minister and his four wives. When the French invaded in 1912, they turned the property into offices. It was impressive and the ceilings were especially spectacular.

    From there we went on to walk around the market area of the Medina and to visit the Secret Garden. The garden was established in the late 16th century and was restored and opened to visitors in 2016. It was a lovely green oasis in the busy Medina.

    We then went for a cooking lesson and made our own lunch! The menu? Three different salads and a chicken tagine. Delicious.

    We now had free time so Brad and I wandered around the Medina for a while before taking a taxi back to our hotel for a rest before going out to dinner at a beautiful restaurant nearby called Azar.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    At the Garden in Marrakech
    1Stop along the way to admire the Atlas MountainsThe van that's our chariot2The receipt for my fine. Not a souvenir I anticipated.Changing landscapeOur riad1Our roomThe walls are mudbrickSpotted en route to the villageThe village. We climbed to the top1FilmographyVillage in the backgroundUpwardOn topBack to the riadCamel crossingAnd horsesA bit of Moroccan wineSundowners with some of our group

    Bye, Marrakesh. Hello, Aït Ben Haddou

    20 février, Maroc ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    This morning we visited the ornate 12th-century Majorelle Gardens, once owned by French fashion designer Yves Saint Laurent. It was a zen way to end our visit to bustling Marrakesh.

    Next, we drove to Aït Ben Haddou, an ancient mud-brick settlement and UNESCO World Heritage Site located in the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.

    It was a four hour drive so we stopped for lunch along the way. We got back into our van and were settling in. I was sitting right at the back getting organized and had not yet put on my seat belt. Our leader had told us that gendarmes often randomly stop vehicles for seat belt checks.

    Well, wouldn’t you know it, within a few minutes of driving away from the restaurant we’re stopped and I’m asked to get out of the van, provide my passport and pay 300 Moroccan dirham on the spot. That’s about $45 Canadian. Our tour leader tried to explain that we had just pulled out of the restaurant parking lot but they’d have none of it. Fair enough. So I paid the fine.

    We arrived at our hotel which is an incredible mud-brick riad. From there, we explored the ksar, or fortified village where scenes from the Game of Thrones series, Lawrence of Arabia, Babel, Gladiator and the soon-to-be-released Christopher Nolan film The Odyssey were shot. The kasbah still houses a few families, but many now live in the adjacent
    village. The pictures tell the story of the landscape.

    It was sunset as we returned to the riad and we joined our group on the rooftop for sundowners before our group dinner.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    "Water is a treasure here. Use it with moderation and respect."
    1Off-roading in the SaharaGazelle2OstrichesAt our glamping camp2Tea poured by our tour leader HichamPoisonous but prettyView of our camp from our walk2Climbing the dunes1We made it!12Took a picture of our tour leader when he wasn't lookingThe sunset was 👌🏻After dinner

    Glamping in Erg Chigaga

    21 février ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    This morning we travelled about four hours through the Draa Valley towards the Sahara. After lunch, we abandoned our van and the group split up to venture into the desert in 4x4s, making our way to the great dunes of Erg Chigaga. We settled into our desert camp and set off on a walk in the Sahara, the world’s largest desert. We were there for sunset. Magical.

    We enjoyed a traditional dinner back at the camp and gathered around a fire beneath the stars for an evening of traditional music.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Tamegroute library
    Exploring TamegrouteFootball match in progressA community oven for bread baking3Our tour leader HichamThe pottery coopApplying cobalt glazeA potterThe pottery wheel is ground level. He sits underground!😮Same. He's sitting undergroundThe ovens used for baking the potteryDonkeys are commonly used1The green cobalt glazeOur hotelWalking around the hotel property💔Walking around the incredibly dry areaAlfalfa growing but the date palms are dryWheat growing thanks to a wellNot sure if these are chives, scallions or green onions. So dry.

    Tamegroute and Zagora

    22 février, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    After breakfast, we drove back through the Sahara Desert and stopped at the small 16th century town of Tamegroute known for its library and ceramics. We watched members of a cooperative of families at work. It’s particularly famous for its green pottery using cobalt glaze. The coop continues to make pottery in a traditional, gruelling way.

    From there, we drove to the oasis town of Zagora, had lunch, checked into our hotel which was just in time for us to watch the men’s hockey Olympic gold medal game. (Thank you CBC Gem!) What a heartbreaker.

    We’re in the Drâa region which is centred around the Drâa River, the longest river in Morocco. The area has faced 14 years of drought out of the last 23. Few plots were planted as we walked around the area.

    We’re staying in having a quiet night at the hotel tonight.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Roaming camels at the side of the road
    Babies about a month oldThe camel herder's motorcycleDry and barrenWe're served tea most everywhere we go. This is at the rug-making coopThe wool is either camel or sheep1Me getting a lesson1They work no more than four hours a day because of the strain on their backs and eyesA travel companion ordered a vegetarian pizza at lunch...carrots, potatoes, peas🤷‍♀️Change in terrain. This is an agricultural area

    Taznakht and Taroudant

    23 février, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We left Zagora this morning and headed off the beaten path towards the Anti-Atlas or Lesser Atlas Mountains. We stopped on the side of the road to watch and photograph some camels. So cool.

    We carried on to Taznakht, a hub for Berber and Bedouin rug-making. I even got to try my hand at it!

    We drove most of the day and arrived at our riad in Taroudant by early evening. Our hotel is a resort and we’ll be here for two nights for some relaxation.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Our hotel
    LobbyThe grounds are expertly landscapedRelaxing by the poolThe town squareEntering the sukThere are more than a hundred types of dates in MoroccoMen sit in cafes facing the streetRushing to pick up supplies for breaking the fastMosque

    Relaxing in Taroudant

    24 février, Maroc ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    We’re staying at a lovely resort and had the day free. We lounged by the pool and read, walked around the beautifully landscaped grounds and Brad went for a massage. A welcome break after our go-go-go schedule.

    Because it’s Ramadan, the town will come alive in the late afternoon/early evening as people hustle to the market to buy food for breaking the fast at sundown. That’s when we headed there. The town is often called “Little Marrakech” because of its busy suk. And it was busy! After visiting the market we returned to the resort for dinner.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Atlas Mountains
    1Berber nomad tentsAt the marketAït Mansour Gorge1Lunch at a family homeTerrace viewChicken, vegetables and couscousThe black things are knives1Tea roomOnto another terrace212SweetsAn argan treeArgan1Walk in the gorge12Le Châpeau de Napoléon, or Napoleon’s Hat.

    Tafraout, Atlas Mountains

    25 février, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Today we ventured deeper into the Anti-Atlas region, known for its spectacular natural rock formations and moon-like landscapes.
    We checked into our hotel, dropped off our bags and set out for the weekly market. You could buy anything from carrots and clothing to chickens and tools.

    We then visited Aït Mansour Gorge, a valley of pinky-orange hued cliffs with lush palm groves. Simply breathtaking!

    Up next - lunch at the home of a local family. On the menu? Soup, chicken and couscous, fruit, cookies and tea.

    After lunch we walked for a while amidst the rock formations and then drove to a site known as Le Châpeau de Napoléon, or Napoleon’s Hat.

    We returned to the hotel, relaxed a bit and then had dinner with the group.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    The corniche in Agadir
    1Chilly but people were out on the beachReady for lunchGoats eating argan1Their shepherd1A babyUp on hind legs to eat the arganThe beach at EssaouiraSetting SunFootballGuy with sardines sharing them with catsCats are everywhere2Cat on the leftQuaintAt the market1SardinesTable for two1Waterfront dinner with some of the group

    Essaouira on the Atlantic coast

    26 février, Maroc ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a long, six-hour drive from the Atlas Mountains to the coast. The weather has changed; it’s overcast and windy. Not a bad day to be in a van.

    We made stops along the way and had lunch in a beachfront town called Agadir. It had a lovely corniche (waterfront) with lots of walkers. Despite it being cool out there were folks on the beach.

    We next stopped to watch the goats eating argan leaves and berries. They’re Berber goats and are known to climb the trees. The herd we stopped to photograph were at the end of their feeding and had already finished climbing right into the trees.

    By late afternoon we arrived in Essaouira. It’s on the Atlantic coast and its Medina is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It’s known as a creative and artistic hub of Morocco. It was a favourite stop on the hippie trail in the ‘60s and ‘70s and has attracted free spirits, artists, and musicians including Jimi Hendrix, Cat Stephens and Frank Zappa.

    We checked in to our hotel and went exploring with the group shortly after. We visited the waterfront and market and had dinner at a waterfront restaurant. We’ll explore further tomorrow.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Back to the Medina
    Almost impossible to grab a photo without a cat in it2At the harbor. Unbelievable how close these boats are stacked in.Oysters anyone?Fresh fishTime for a lunch of fresh fishThe corniche1Walking to the Medina at nightThe restaurant: Madada1It was a carob warehouse in the 1800sHappy hubbyAppetizerEntreeDessert

    Essaouira

    27 février, Maroc ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    We had a free morning so we had a leisurely breakfast before walking over to the Medina and roaming the streets and alleys there. So lively and colourful!

    We met the group at 1 PM and our leader took us over to the docks where the fishing boats are. It was mind-blowing how they were all jammed into such a small space. Adjacent there was fresh fish being sold as well as varieties of seafood. We went from there to a restaurant which had already purchased fish for us and had a fish lunch, which was delicious.

    We were free again after lunch for the remainder of the day and wandered in the Medina a little more, heading back to relax a bit before our dinner reservation. I’d found a recommended restaurant for Brad and me to check out and it was fabulous. Cool decor and excellent food.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Manta gardens
    Mainly olive treesThe museumEntering the museum. No photos allowed insideBack at the MedinaIf a shop's closed there's simply a broom across the doorOr a bamboo stickMotorcycles and bicycles ride through the narrow pathsOur dinner - beef tagineMusiciansBelly dancerOur group1

    Back to Marakesh and farewells

    28 février, Maroc ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We left Essaouira and drove for three hours
    back to Marrakech. We visited the Menara Gardens in Marakesh which dates from the 11th century. It’s full of olive trees.

    We had free time until dinner and had bought tickets to the Yves Saint Laurent Museum. Once we checked in to our hotel, we rested for a bit and then grabbed a cab to the museum. The museum is beautiful, but I was somewhat disappointed in the exhibits. The main exhibit focusses on St. Laurent ‘s early career as a stage and costume designer, not on his couture career. It was interesting but not quite what I’d expected.

    We then took a 40-minute walk back to the Medina where our farewell dinner with the group would be held. We had a few hours to kill and wandered around the market. Because it’s Ramadan, the shops started to close up around sunset which was still an hour until our group dinner reservation. We decided to proceed to the restaurant hoping they’d let us sit while we waited for the rest of the group to arrive. They did and it was great. Our dinner was delicious and included, entertainment - musicians, and a belly dancer. A nice way to cap off an incredible two weeks.

    Our travel companions have been lovely and we’d welcome seeing them again. In fact, I WILL be seeing the woman from Basel in December when my Rhine Christmas markets river cruise wraps up there on December 1. We’ve already made a date to meet for coffee.

    We logged 2,750 kilometres with the group and will now spend a couple more days exploring Morocco on our own.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Train station in Marrakesh
    BoardingCasablanca boundCasablanca train stationAll aboardWe are about 8 feet apart . My foot is in the foreground.🤷‍♀️Tangier2Our riadBalcony view at golden hour

    Train to Tangier

    1 mars, Maroc ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Today was primarily a travel day for us. We took the train from Marrakesh to Tangier via Casablanca. Our train tickets weren’t until late morning so we were able to sleep in and have a leisurely breakfast. Amazingly, our hotel was next door to the train station so we only had to cross the street.

    Our train was on time and our compartment was for six. We travelled with a couple from Chicago and a couple from Florida who were lovely. We had lively conversations and the time passed quickly.

    We got off the train in Casablanca to transfer to another train a half hour later. It was also on time. This train had very unusual seating. Brad and I sat in single seats facing each other, but about 8 feet apart. 🤷‍♀️ The photo tells the story.

    We took a taxi from the train station but because we’re staying in the old town/Medina, the cab couldn’t go all the way in. What we noticed immediately is that Tangier is far more hilly than any of the other cities we’ve been to in Morocco. Sure enough, our riad was uphill. It was a good workout!

    Our riad is a historic, restored building that served as the first Moroccan State Bank in the early 1900s. Following its closure in 1907, it became a government property before being transformed into a boutique hotel with 18 rooms. It’s such a perfect place to end our Moroccan adventure.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    4These beautifully decorated lanes are community projects done by volunteers
    One of the city gatesThe city walls date back to the 900sSign of a cat friendly homeMosqueMatisse sat hereAnd painted this domeThe paintingThe port behind usOn a clear day, you can see Spain, Gibraltar, and PortugalThe gates to Barbara Hutton, the Woolworth heiress' former estateCafé Baba is where the Rolling Stones and Anthony Bourdain were known to frequentEntering the marketSuch skillCoffee and people watching at the cafe recommended by Anthony BourdainEntrance to Villa Mabrouka has no signageOn the grounds of the villa which was YSL's homeThe Orangerie restaurantThe groundsIt’s now a five star hotel

    Tangier walking tour + Villa Mabrouka

    2 mars, Maroc ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    When Brad and I are freestyling in a city, one of the first things we do is go on a walking tour. Tangier was no different. We met our guide, Rabal, at one of the old Medina gates at 10 am and began exploring the city’s fascinating history.

    We learned its walls were built in the 900s. The Portuguese invaded in 1471 and stayed for two centuries. It’s a very white city, with most of the buildings painted with limestone. Our guide said Tangier is often called “Bride of the north” because it’s white. It was a diplomatic centre as well as an artistic centre attracting artists, musicians, and writers. Henri Matisse lived here for a year.

    Barbara Hutton, the Woolworth heiress, bought multiple adjoining properties here and turned them into a mansion estate. Immediately across from her mansion is Café Baba where celebrities such as The Rolling Stones and Anthony Bourdain were known to frequent. We had hoped to go there, but it was closed.

    Instead, after our tour, we had a rest at Café Tingis, featured in Anthony Bourdain: Parts Unknown as a spot for mint tea and people-watching. Loved it.

    We did some more walking and then headed to our late lunch/early dinner reservation at Villa Mabrouka, Yves Saint Laurent‘s former home, now a five star hotel with wonderful restaurants. It is one of those discreet properties with no signage. If you know, you know.😉 Everything about it was exceptional.

    Tangier feels different from other Moroccan cities. So glad that our friend Kate Marshall suggested we added it to our itinerary. It feels more multicultural. Its topography is hilly and it’s a beautiful port.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Time for a beard trim
    1Brad didn't have a haircut but the barber felt he should "style" his hairAt the marketSmall doorNappingAt the ferry terminalOn the ferryCadiz boundOur police escort1The Uber driverTaxi 😁

    Farewell Morocco, hello Spain!

    3 mars, Maroc ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    Our Morocco adventure ended today. We planned to take a ferry from Tangier to Tarifa. The weather had other ideas. Our 1 p.m. ferry was cancelled and we were told we’d leave at 6 p.m. from a pier a further distance away which would take us to a different Spanish city, Algeciras.

    Our hotel arranged for a car to take us the port. We decided to go early to be sure we got tickets. The ferry ended up delayed and didn’t leave until 8:30 p.m. Fortunately, there were lovely people to chat with during the delay and the voyage. We had an hour time change so it was after midnight once we landed.

    We had decided to stay in Cadiz, a small city of about 100,000 which we visited before and found charming. It was about a 90 minute Uber ride. But not when the Uber has a flat tire on the middle of the highway at 1:30 a.m.😫 The driver didn’t speak English and my Spanish is marginal. And he did’t have a spare tire 🤦‍♀️ (Thank heavens for Google Translate.)

    By 2:30 a.m,. he had zero luck getting a tow truck out so he called the police for assistance. They gave him a cab company to call. The police then came to where we were and gave us an escort to a rest stop where the cab could come pick us up. We were finally on our way at 3:30 a.m. Brad and I had been hoping for a ride in a police car, but twas not to be.

    A loooong day. But we’ve made it to Spain!🇪🇸    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Relieved to be getting wonderful care

    Heartburn? Try heart attack

    5 mars, Espagne ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Well, yesterday turned out differently than we planned.

    Brad wasn’t feeling well for the last couple of days complaining of heartburn. Well, it turns out the heartburn was actually a myocardial infarction, commonly known as a heart attack.

    Fortunately, we went to the hospital to get the “heartburn” checked out and learned he had something going on with his heart. All is good. He was admitted and is being monitored. He is stable and relieved to have sought medical attention before it was a crisis.

    A cardiologist did an ultrasound and could readily see the damage to Brad’s heart. It’s on the bottom of the left ventricle. There’s a blockage there. Brad will be transported by ambulance to a bigger hospital. The procedure will be done tomorrow morning to further examine the blockages. They’ll put dye through an artery from his hand to identify the blockage(s) and will at the same time correct whatever blockage there is.

    If there is more than one blockage, they can’t do it in one session. It will require another.

    Brad has no pain any more which is fabulous. The doctors and nurses keep telling us how fortunate it was that we came when we did.

    We’ll now be in Spain for as long as required. Needless to say, the remainder of our planned travels have been cancelled.

    The moral of the story? If something doesn’t feel right, trust your intuition.    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Man with a souvenir stent
    Our hotelThere's a charming square next to the hotelIn the squareOne of the streets1My first sample of Iberico jamon this tripWalking back to the hotel

    Souvenir stent from Spain

    6 mars, Espagne ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    Brad had his angioplasty this morning and it was successful in unblocking an artery and having a stent put in. He’s doing well and feeling great.

    Next steps will be for him to get up tomorrow and walk around as well as to start taking medications. He will be closely observed and, fingers crossed, will be released from the hospital in three or four days.

    We had been staying in a hotel in Cadiz but given Brad was transported by ambulance from Cadiz to Jerez last night, I moved us to a hotel near here this morning. Continuing to stay in Cadiz would have meant a 30 minute/€50 cab ride each way. The hotel we have now is a €5 cab ride to the hospital..

    Brad is in ICU with strict visiting hours: 1 to 1:30 p.m., 5 to 5:30 p.m. and 8 to 8:30 pm. Visits are only 30 minutes each time but they’ve been letting me be there almost an hour. Hoping he gets moved to a regular ward over the weekend with more generous visiting hours.

    I took the night off and did not go for the 8 o’clock visit and had a chance to take a walk and have dinner. It’s been rainy and overcast here but the city is still charming. Jerez de Frontera has a population of about 200,000. It’s in the province of Cádiz, famous for sherry and flamenco.💃    En savoir plus

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  • Morocco, Spain + hospital stay
    Sitting up! Lunch was chicken, mashed sweet potatoes and cooked spinach with apples and raisins.
    The train station dates back to 1854 and is still used todayInside the stationSpotted on my walk to the hospital1My walkFeeding my door obsessionIn the square next to our hotel1The pedestrian mallHeard music coming from a side street and went to investigateA pause to people watchA marching band 🤔

    On the mend and exploring Jerez

    7 mars, Espagne ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    Brad was able to walk a bit and sit upright for the first time in days. He’s feeling great. He’s still in ICU and we’re hopeful that he’ll be in a regular ward by Monday at the latest. I spoke to the doctor today and it’ll likely be at least another five days in the ward.

    We’re noticing real cultural differences. When I arrived for the 1 o’clock visiting time, I went to the main doors of the hospital as usual, only to find that they were locked tight and there was no one around. I was able to decipher the Spanish sign advising that these doors are closed on Saturdays and Sundays. That was unusual! When I enter the ICU area, I have to put on a robe but not a mask .🤔 And Brad‘s meal times are truly Spanish. Dinner is at 8 p.m.

    In between the crazy visiting hours, I’ve had a chance to explore the city a little more and it’s lovely. I went to see the beautiful, historic train station and then found the bustling pedestrian area. I sat in a sidewalk cafe and had dinner people watching when I could hear music getting louder. A marching band! Turns out it’s the last day of a festival celebrating flamenco.    En savoir plus

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