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Cress on the Camino del norte
  • Cressida Borrett
  • Cressida Borrett

Cress on the Camino del norte

This time we are walking 840 plus km across northern Spain along the coast for much of it Weiterlesen
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  • Beginn der Reise
    18. Mai 2026
    Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino del norteReisender
    14

    Day one, train to Spain

    18. Mai in Frankreich ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Even though I have done this journey before I still marvel at the speed and ease. Only two trains and a walk across Paris and we will be in Irun where the walk starts. When I was a student it too 24 hours together this far.Weiterlesen

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    1

    Day 2, about 46km in already

    20. Mai in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Last night I was so tired that washing myself and my clothes and finding supper was all I could manage. So far it has been very hilly, very wooded and with some lovely towns including San Sebastián where I had a swim in the sea. Feet and knees aren't behaving but they will get used to it. Tonight we are in a summer resort which whilst a bit modern, is pretty and has a beach to die for. Also more lovely basque food I hope, and wine from the vineyards we walked through this afternoon.Weiterlesen

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    Geopark diversion day

    21. Mai in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Hardest walk ever. 9 hours of up and down rocky paths in 34c. I was even too tired to swim at the end. Now sitting with a glass of wine, this morning seems a long time ago. The geopark is a geological marvel, a bit like the giants causeway. Pictures tell the restWeiterlesen

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino del norteReisender
    1

    Deba to Markina in 35c

    22. Mai in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I am sitting on the steps of a school a couple of hundred metres uphill in direct sunlight from our hostel. As if walking 800m uphil wasn't enough, the sun had to come out. A beautiful walk, if I finish it, but so tough. 10 hours so far. There is a cold beer waiting once I arrive and hydrate.Weiterlesen

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino del norteReisender
    1

    Zumaio to Bilbao and Guernika to Zumaio

    25. Mai in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 34 °C

    The last few days have been too hot. I'm struggling even though we are leaving at 6am and I have managed to speed up a bit. Thankfully a lot of the walking is in beautiful woods, but the walk along a long flat road to Zumaio yesterday at 2 ish was brutal. The hotel was relatively luxurious though, and we had a shorter walk today. We are meeting more pilgrims now, and yesterday was enjoyable as I walked with two interesting women from Bremen and Melbourne. Bilbao is beautiful, and I will have to come back and visit the Guggenheim which is closed on Mondays.Weiterlesen

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino del norteReisender
    11

    Bilbao to Ilares

    27. Mai in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    It has been too hot, but today we left before dawn and had a lovely 26km walk along the coast in the cool sea mist. It has now burnt away but it still feels quite a lot cooler than this time yesterday or Monday. We are waiting to check in at the hotel and then going to explore the beach which looks quite interesting on the map.Weiterlesen

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino del norteReisender
    2

    Islares to Laredo

    28. Mai in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Today's walk was lovely, except the very big hill in the middle! We started with 7km along the road as the sun rose. Then the yellow,arrows became confusing - 3 different routes on offer. We stuck with the app but clearly others didn't as it was very steep, stoney and overgrown with prickly things. The walk down the other side looked like Austria, green, mountains and twee villages. It then turned into another coast path with a group of twitches from England getting excited about very small birds while griffon vultures circled overhead. Much more exciting! We are now at a cafe in Lorredo waiting to check in the covent which opens at 2. First time in a proper albergue for this trip if we get a room. Then a,swim which will hopefully be as nice as yesterday's sea poolWeiterlesen

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    Laredo to Güemes

    29. Mai in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today we got a lie in until 6, as the convent is locked until 7, presumably to stop people in dorms waking everyone up at 5am with their headtorches. Also because the ferry doesn't start until 9, and it is only 6 km or so along the beach. That's an hour and a half at my pace but we were going at Fiona speed and there was nowhere to stop for breakfast so we had 45 minutes on the end of the beach with a gaggle of other walkers. You could tell which country they came from by the number of layers they put on; Italy 3, Sweden and England 0. Fiona's hands went white. Eventually a tiny ex fishing boat a bit like the ones we played with in the bath as kids turned up and about 25 of us and several bikes got on. The picture is courtesy of Heather who was left on the beach shivering. After breakfast at the town on the other side we started walking uphill, scrambling in places, over the headland to another stunning beach. Then inland for many hours of small roads through farmland mostly. We are now in a nice hotel, in a lovely village, with an infinity pool and a nice restaurant with veggie things on the menu for a change. It is over 10c cooler than yesterday thankfully.Weiterlesen

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    Güemes to Santander

    30. Mai in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Short day today after a very nice supper. We walked along a cliff top coastpath that could have been in Cornwall. Along a beach, and over the bay on the Ferry. It was drizzling first thing but perfect temperature and I got to wear my glamorous poncho. Santander is on a hilly peninsula, and we are staying by one of the beaches in a big hotel. It is a nice city from what I have seen so far, probably more walking this afternoon.Weiterlesen

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    2

    Santander to Santilla and Comillas

    1. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    The last two walks have been very different. Santander is a much bigger city than it looked on the map so we took a cab to the edge to avoid a 37km day. My feet are finding the walking on tarmac aspect of this route very difficult. The walk was pleasant enough, a 2m train across the river, a large factory and lots of rolling farmland. We finally got to Santillana which is like a cotswold village. The convent was in the middle, beautiful and nicely done up. We had our own room and there was a gorgeous garden to sit in. The beds had sheets, and there was dinner, all for 27 euros each.
    Today was a very pretty walk through wealthy villages full of large houses built with money made in the Americas. The picos de Europa mountains as background. Comillas is gorgeous, quite big, with a Palace, a very ornate university and a house by Gaudí which was spectacular. So by the time we had toured that, had a look at the port and had dinner with friends we added at least 4km to the daily walk. My feet and ankles hurt.    Weiterlesen

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    Comillas, Unquera and Vidiago

    3. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The last two days have been coastal walking, all day on roads yesterday but thankfully lots of wooded paths and rocks today. Much easier on the feet. We are now in our third region, Asturias, and the way is better sign posted. The coast line this morning was spectacular and we got to clamber over one of the blow holes formed by the sea below. When the tide is in huge plumes of sea water come up through the hole into the air. But today the tide was going out.Weiterlesen

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  • Cressida BorrettCress on the Camino del norteReisender
    1

    Coastal walk to Nueva

    4. Juni in Spanien ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    Today has been drizzly, but just the right temperature for walking, so I have managed 28km without much effort. It was fairly flat though. We are staying in a quirky hotel full of antiques and with a Glastonbury vibe. The cleaner has the best hippy trousers, straight out of scoobydoo. Fiona is in a triangular annex to one side of the main bit of room and we have a jacuzzi shower. All for less than £25 each. The walk today started on road but turned into country paths and coast with some spectacular beaches. I did my best impression of a priest from the 19th century with long black poncho and hat shoved on top to keep the hood on.Weiterlesen

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    2

    Ribadesella

    5. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today was a short rest day so we only walked 14km to the town of Ribadesella. It is an old resort on one side of the estuary and the old town on the other. It has a surfing beach with waves so strong they just snapped a guys surfboard in half as we watched. Also a peaceful river with canoeing and every sort of watersport you could want. Not much happening even though it's Friday night, and finding the elusive goats cheese salad took quite a bit of wandering about. It was very good though, despite the tatty looking restaurant. Our hotel is the opposite of last night. Spotless, everything white and bright, and a river seemingly running underneath it. Unbelievably there was nowhere for coffee for the whole 14km this morning, so we have stocked up with fruit, nuts and flanes(caramel pud)to get us through the weekend when there will be even less available. We are very much in a populated area and in summer but the season hasn't started at all and a lot of things are closed.Weiterlesen

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    1

    Colunga

    6. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today's walk was about 20km to this seen-better-days town where even Saturday lunchtime feels half hearted. The hotel is fine, but the decor is an offence to design once again. Luckily I sleep with my eyes closed.
    The walk itself was lovely, meadows full of wildflowers and baby animals, rugged coastline and woods. Even some non paved bits for once. We stopped at a donativo (pay what you want) breakfast place being run by a German and had some lovely bread and jam as well as coffee and a chat with her and some Spanish,French and Dutch walkers. Fiona didn't sleep much last night so is having a rest while I confuse the owner by sitting in the lobby doing my drawing. It's cool out so nice to be indoors for a bit.    Weiterlesen

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    Villaviciosa again

    7. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    This is the town where we started the Primitivo walk last year. We are staying in a much lovelier hotel than last time, an old palace full of antiques. For the same cost or less as there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason to hostel and hotel standards here. We decided to have our meal at lunchtime as it takes the pressure off trying to find anywhere open for food on a Sunday evening. Lots of vegetables were found so my body is having a little celebration after so much meat, egg and fish.
    The walk today was a bit hilly, farmland and temperate rain forest along a little river under the motorway. I accidentally added an extra climb looking for Fiona who is normally ahead, so am recording this fact as it doesn't happen very often. The town we are staying in is famous for apples and Sidra El Gaitero, a sparkling cider made in a 1900s factory on the edge of town. It was set up by an indiano emigrant to Cuba who realised there were so many asturians over there that he could make his fortune exporting cider to remind them of home. I last tasted it in about 1974 and didn't like it. I'm still not a fan of cider which is the regional drink here. Should probably taste some again though, just incase.    Weiterlesen

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    1

    Gijon and big hill day

    8. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    After a nice sleep in the lovely hotel last night we were on the road at 6.20 out of Villaviciosa and up into the hills. We did this section last year in pouring rain as it also leads to the Camino Primitivo, and it was nice to actually see where we were going this time. Once the 2 caminos split we had a big climb up over a hill about 500m high. It was very humid and the sun tan lotion I applied just in case ran off my face with the sweat dripping off my nose and chin. The sun thankfully didn't show up until midday by which time we had stomped over two hills and found a bar run by a woman of 80+ who had never heard of the coffees we asked for and served weak coffee in 1970's mugs to match the 1970's decor. The walk down into Gijon was fine, and 28km later we found our hotel which is nice, but not as nice as last night despite having 2 more stars. This is a very nice city, 2 gorgeous beaches, and a poke bowl restaurant where we ate lovely wholemeal rice and vegetables for a change.Weiterlesen

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    1

    Avilés

    9. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Today was billed as the least interesting day on this 840km walk so we started late and with low expectations. It was very overcast and cool, which suits me. Walking out through the less well off east side of Gijon was interesting. People were starting their day, taking kids to school, opening shops up etc, so not boring. The second section wound around the steel works. After a bit of goggling at lunchtime I established that these are now owned by the Mittal family (India) and make steel rods and high speed rail. The photos don't really show the size and dominance of it in the landscape. Small villages had been all but swallowed up and there was evidence of people living in containers, a very ancient caravan, semi ruined houses and a converted lorry. Rubbish along the street and a film of reddish dust on everything. That soon gave way to a hill, and a second valley, this time the pastoral scene the previous one once was. Fields of grasses and wildflowers for silage and nice second homes. As we neared Avilés where we are staying tonight a second Mittal steel plant and fertiliser plant filled the landscape and we were pushed onto the side of big busy roads. Boring and hard walking but I like industrial landscapes so that part was interesting. There was a large area of company housing which would have been very attractive when it was new and cared for. Apparently this is now part of their industrial heritage with tours.
    We stayed in Avilés last year so luckily knew that things would improve as we got into the beautiful old town. The 24.8km of largely run down and desperate looking housing has left me feeling gloomy and very fortunate to not live somewhere like that.    Weiterlesen

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    2

    Muros de Nalon

    10. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Tonight we are staying in a pilgrim hostel, so have actually seen other walkers which didn't happen yesterday or the day before. At times it has felt like we are the only people doing this route. The walk today was prettier, a distant wind turbine factory filling the valley west of Avilés and then rolling hills and eucalyptus forests. The path was all over the place with conflicting yellow arrows, but we made it here by one, so have been relaxing and waiting for the dinner which the people running the hostel cook every night. There are people here from Spain, France, Netherlands, canary islands, and the US. Mostly older.Weiterlesen

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    11131

    Playa del silencio

    11. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Today I'm sitting in the sun at a hostel on a hill overlooking the sea, which is apparently only ten minutes climb down the cliffs. Having walked 25km ish my feet are screaming so I may not make it down there. It is very peaceful here, only 3 people staying, and a cold wind which means I am probably getting sunburnt. The walk today was winding up and down through beautiful forests, very hilly, and mostly eucaliptus trees. Every now and then we popped out into a village, each one very different. One had a bar and a bakery, so breakfast sorted. The amazing lump of concrete engineering that is the A8 motorway loomed large, sometimes above, sometimes below and we crossed it a few times, the last one via a spooky little tunnel that was dark enough to need a torch. Fiona has just found "ramblers" brand beer in the fridge for a donation of € 1.50. I wonder if the guy running the place realises how appropriate the name is.Weiterlesen

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    1

    Luarca

    13. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Yesterday's walk already feels like a distant memory. A pretty walk, up and down again for 9.5 hours by which time I was sure I'd walked 38km, only to be told it was 29. Luarca reminded me of Cornwall a bit. Complete with noisy seagulls. My bad foot looked puffy but a swim in coldish sea helped, followed by an amazing dinner of really nice creative modern food at normal Spanish prices. Best meal so far.Weiterlesen

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    La Caridad

    13. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Today was not a good walking day as I slept badly because of my foot and another upset stomach. We were on the road just after 6 and I stomped 20km on extra strong painkillers to Navia, where I finally got coffee and breakfast. By this time I had had a sense of humour failure, so waited for a bus which saved me the extra 10km and was probably good for me. I am now sitting in the garden of the hostel with my drawing and some food instead of walking another 3 hours in the heat. I did see some nice views and a wild deer though.Weiterlesen

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    Ribadeo

    14. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today we woke up to a slightly less painful ankle for me, and a much worse foot for Fiona after she did something to it yesterday. So, after hanging around at the hostel until the cleaners arrived we walked into the town centre and parked ourselves at a cafe until it was time to get a train here. Various people we know came by and joined us for a bit including the guy from Canarias who was so tired he had his shirt on inside out. Opposite was a church where they were laying out decorations for 1st communion and corpus so I had a chat with someone there about the tradition as it's not something they did in the south. Dyed salt pictures on the ground of each child.
    The train is a tiny narrow gauge thing with 2 carriages, and doesn't run more than twice a day, and not on time. Some local ladies explained that this is because there are often objects and landslides on the line. We enjoyed chatting to them, so the wait was fine. Ribadeo is in Galicia, so subtlety different in architecture and of course language. We accidentally booked a great little hotel on the waterfront for only 52 euros a night, with a fabulous view of the port and estuary, and a lovely terrace to sit on. There is even a quiet bit of water down below in the marina, which looks cleaner than the Thames so I had a lovely swim this afternoon as I couldn't be bothered to walk to the bathing area. It is 30c. Got a few funny glances but it was worth it. Lunch was good, and there was live music in the street with people dancing. Supper also good and met some English expats from Casares who reminded me why I don't live around there anymore, although they were nice.
    We were always planning a rest day, but two is good as hopefully it will give my foot time to recover for the big hills coming up. It feels strange to sit still though.    Weiterlesen

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    Ribadeo to Lourenza

    16. Juni in Spanien ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After and interesting couple of days with Fiona injured we are walking again. We turned left inland away from the coast and uphill into Galicia. A short but beautiful walk through forest and farmland. The rest days were much needed, by my feet as well as hers and I enjoyed Ribadeo. Even though we spent yesterday exploring the Spanish nhs, getting g Fiona's foot xrayed it was nice to sit still.Weiterlesen

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