Crotto del Misto, Lezzeno

We spent a "down" day today at the apartment, catching up on washing and just relaxing. At about 3pm we decided we were getting a bit peckish so walked to the restaurant just up the road for a lateLæs mere
We spent a "down" day today at the apartment, catching up on washing and just relaxing. At about 3pm we decided we were getting a bit peckish so walked to the restaurant just up the road for a late lunch, forgetting that Italians don't do late lunches. The restaurant was closed so instead of walking back to our accommodation we decided to sit on the verandah overlooking the lake and enjoy a few drinks and some snacks while we waited for the restaurant to open at 7pm.
The host pretended to speak very little English and did not "understand" when we were asking if we could have some drinks, but we overheard him later talking perfect English. There is a real lack of customer service over here and we often feel as if we are putting them out. He did manage to get across to us that we would need to book if we wanted dinner, which we were quite amused about as we were in the middle of nowhere and there were very few people about. Thankfully we did though, as to our surprise, once the restaurant opened it filled up very quickly, and the people we spent the afternoon chatting with were unable to get a table.
We spent a lovely few hours admiring the view, having a few drinks, appreciating the snacks they bring with the drinks, and chatting to a family from American that were celebrating their Dad's 60th birthday. It was a fabulous way to spend the afternoon before enjoying a very delicious dinner at the restaurant. A great last day on Lake Como.Læs mere
We left beautiful Lake Como today and made our way by bus to Como where we picked up our hire car. This was Brad’s first time driving on this trip and we were both a little anxious. Driving on the other side of the road in a manual car, which means the gears are on the other side, was daunting, but Brad did a great job. In all my research I hadn’t read anything about road tolls but somehow we managed to get through the ones we needed to.
Our location for our next overnight stay was Spiazzi, a small town in northern Italy, about an hour from Verona. Thankfully most of the driving was on major roads but the drive up the hillside closer to Spiazzi was a bit scary, amazing views but scary none the less. One thing we have noticed is there has been a real haze over the area due to the heat so the sky hasn’t been as blue as we expected. Hopefully it will cool down and the haze will disappear.
With my “brilliant” navigation and Brad’s amazing driving skills we found our accommodation without too much stress. While our accommodation at Hotel Serena was pretty basic, it was clean and had what we needed for a quick overnight stay. And the most amazing views from the veranda.
The town itself was gorgeous and had a real charm about it. It was a town full of colour. Set high in the mountains there were views 360 degrees - only problem was the haze made it hard to see too far.
Still a lovely spot to sit and enjoy a refreshment after our visit to the sanctuary.Læs mere
We took a detour on our way to Verona after I had seen an image of this on the Planet Go instagram and I am so glad we made the trip.
After checking into our accommodation we made the walk down the side of the mountain to visit the Madonna Della Corona Sanctuary. Along the way were huge, very detailed bronze statues detailing Jesus’ death and resurrection, set against the gorgeous backdrop of the mountains and views. Quite spectacular!!
The Sanctuary’s location was even more spectacular! It is built into the side of the mountain at 774 meters above sea level, overlooking the valley of the Adige river. The church itself started originally as a monastery dating back to the early 13th century, and has been expanded and rebuilt over the years whilst preserving the original structure.
The walls along one side of the church is the actual mountain side - totally unbelievable.
The saddest part of the sanctuary is in the oldest part where the walls are lined with hundreds and hundreds of photos of men, women, and lots of children that have passed away. Lots of memorabilia from the dead has also been placed there. It is a place of sadness and loss.
Below this was an ossuary that we were not expecting and on display were a couple of mummies and some skulls. This actually felt different to the bones we have previously seen as they weren’t just bones, there was more substance to them. It felt a bit eerie.
Overall it was an interesting place to visit and the location was amazing. Thankfully there was a bus we could catch back up the hill as I don’t think we could have walked back up as easily as we walked down.Læs mere
Our destination today was Verona, home of Romeo and Juliette. Brad drove again and we were doing alright until we got to Verona, a couple of awkward intersection cross overs (who knows if we were in the right or not) and we finally made it.
As this was just an overnight stop, we checked into our room, unpacked and set out to explore. I had completely underestimated Verona when planning as it was such a lovely place that I wish we were staying longer.
We checked out some of the major sites and enjoyed walking in the older part of Verona. The first piazza we came across was Piazza Bra, the largest piazza in Verona, Italy, with some claims that it is the largest in the country. The piazza is lined with numerous cafés and restaurants, along with several notable buildings and is a very picturesque site.
It is also the location of the Verona Arena, originally an amphitheatre built nearly 2000 years ago. The building itself was built in the first century AD on a site then beyond the city walls. While it can now host crowds of up to 22,000, the original amphitheatre could seat 30,000 spectators. This is now a world-famous music venue with regular operatic and contemporary music performances including Pink Floyd, Rod Stewart, Elton John, and Muse. Unfortunately because it is a commercial venue it was covered with advertising signs and scaffolding.
It was a lovely vibrant piazza to start our mini tour of Verona and we were already in love with the city. We spent the rest of the afternoon exploring more of the sites while trying not to get too hot. We were just not prepared for the heat here. Luckily, like most Italian cities, there are fresh water fountains throughout the piazzas to refill our water bottles.
We finished our night with a very delicious dinner at Locanda degli Scaligeri, a restaurant not far from the hotel. Not sure if they had their translations right but there was gnocchi with overcooked horse meat on the menu. Needless to say, I did not order that. After dinner we enjoyed another stroll into the main square to admire it at night.
The only thing that could have improved was the weather. It was very hot and humid, not what we expected for this time of year. What a lovely stop on our way to Venice.Læs mere
In our wanderings we came across Piazza delle Erbe, which was once the town's forum during the time of the Roman Empire. This plaza was buzzing with the centre filled with markets surrounded by cafes and restaurants. It has a real vibe about it and the surrounding buildings were beautiful.
The square is surrounded by the ancient town hall, the Torre dei Lamberti, the Casa dei Giudici ("Judges' Hall") and the frescoed Mazzanti Houses. There is the Baroque Palazzo Maffei, decorated by statues of Greek gods, faced by a white marble column, on which is St. Mark's Lion, symbol of the Republic of Venice. On another side is the site of the ancient Roman Capitol Hill, which looked towards the forum. Many of the buildings facing the square have maintained façade frescoes, while other buildings, the tall houses of the Ghetto, are reminiscent of medieval tower-houses.
The square's most ancient monument is the fountain, built in 1368, surmounted by a statue called Madonna Verona, which is however a Roman sculpture dating to 380 AD. It was so hot even the dogs were sitting in the fountain to cool down.
Also in the square is the medieval Arco della Costa, Arch of the Rib. A whale rib has been mysteriously suspended from the arch since at least the 1700s, though some estimates suggest much longer, possible since the 15th century. And with Verona located about 120 km from the sea, no one is quite sure how it got there. The arch is the entry point between Piazza Erbe and Piazza dei Signori.
In the Middle Ages and Renaissance era, the walkway above the arch provided a safe passage for judges and magistrates between the city hall and their living quarters, so that they needn’t associate with the common or “corrupt” people below. This may be the ironic origin of the myth of the whalebone’s magic: It’s claimed that it will fall on the first innocent or truthful person to walk under the archway. Yet another interesting sight to see and a great story to go with it.
There was so much to see and photograph here, and it was a great place to sit and enjoy a cup of delicious fruit for our lunch (a nice change from pasta and pizza - not that we haven't been enjoying that). It was a nice break to sit back and watch the world go by.Læs mere
After enjoying some time in the Piazza we decided to check out the Torre dei Lamberti, the Lamberti Tower, and see how we could get to the top. The Lamberti Tower is a 84m high tower and the main attraction in the Piazza delle Erbe. It is attached to Palazzo del Commune.
Construction of the tower was started in 1172 as part of Palazzo delle Commune’s original four towers, of which only the Tower Lamberti remains. In May 1403 the top of the tower was struck by lightning, but the restoration works didn't start until 1448 and took 16 years. During that time, the tower was enlarged: The more recent sections can be recognized today by the use of different materials (such as marble). The large clock was added in 1779.
The tower has two bells: the Marangona signals fires, work times, and the hours of the day, while the largest, called Rengo, is used to call the population to arms or to invoke the city's councils.
Thankfully there was a lift option and we didn’t have to climb the 368 stairs to get to the top to admire the views. It was way to hot to be climbing stairs. It was amazing how far we could see and I loved seeing the odd “terrace” on the rooftops, especially the one with the blow up pool. What a great way to make use of your rooftop.Læs mere
One of the sites we visited today was Sant'Anastasia, a Gothic style church of the Dominican Order. The current church was started in 1280 and completed in 1400. It took its name from a pre-existing temple built by King Theoderic the Great upon which was built the actual church.
The 72m tall belltower had four bells in 1460, the fifth was added in 1650. In the 1839, the 9 bells were cast and tuned in C; they are rung in Veronese bellringing art by a local team founded in 1776.
While this church isn’t that exciting or elaborate on the outside, the inside is pretty amazing. The arches and the ceiling are stunning and it always amazes me how these intricate paintings and patterns are created. Even the floor was interesting with many different patterns created using the same tones of marble.
The walls still display some of the original frescoes created in the 15th century as well as terracotta statues from the same era. There are two stoups before the first two columns that stand on two hunchback figures, which aren’t the usual things you see in a church.
Overall this was worth a visit and once again we were impressed by the history of this church.Læs mere
Verona is known as the home of Shakesheare's Romeo and Juliette and you can't visit Verona without visiting Juliette's balcony. While Shakespeare never went to Verona and the actual site wasn't the inspiration for the setting of the two non-fictional characters' balcony scene, it is the city's top attraction. It was also made famous in the movie, Letters to Juliet, and as a result the courtyard was packed with tourists, us included.
In 1905 the municipality bought the 14th century Verona home from the Dal Capello family because of the similarity between their name and Juliet's family name. And so the house was marketed as the Capulet family home, Home of Juliet – and a new tourist site was born.
A narrow archway leads into a small courtyard where you can admire the small stone balcony on one of the walls. There are many traditions/superstitions associated with this site, ways to ensure your love lasts forever or help you find your true love. As a result of these traditions though, the historic building has been damaged and steps are being taken to stop some of the traditions from occurring.
As you walk through the alleyway into the courtyard, visitors have left notes attached to the walls, either a vow of eternal love made by lovers or the wishes of singles seeking love. Legend has it that if you leave your note here you will stay together with your partner forever. The notes and letters have since been removed due to the damage they were causing the mortar as most were attached with chewing gum. Replaceable panels now cover the alleyway walls on which visitors can write their messages of love. Not quite the same thing but people are still doing it.
Love notes were also left tucked into the wall and those have now been replaced with putting chewing gum on the wall with you and your lovers initials. Bit gross if you ask me.
In the courtyard there is a bronze statue of Juliet and legend states if you touch her right breast you will find your true love. The original famed statue, which stood in the courtyard since 1972, was pulled from its Verona home due to cracks and wear from the touch of thousands of love-seeking tourists. The statue was moved to Museum Castelvecchio where it was restored and now displayed. An exact replica now stands in her place and tourists are continuing the tradition.
There are so many traditions for such a small courtyard that it is really quite bizarre what people will do, thinking this will ensure their love forever. It is a bit tacky and very touristy and probably not a place I would really recommend to visit as it is "just a balcony".Læs mere
After yet another delicious breakfast (this is going to be a hard habit to break), we made the train to Venice - just. One thing about Italians, they are never in a hurry but at least we made it.
It was yet another extremely hot day and thankfully we were able to check into our accommodation early. Because of a change of plans we were spending one extra night in Venice but could not extend our already booked accommodation so had to book somewhere else. And I have to say thank goodness we only had to spend one night here. While it was clean and the air con was amazing, it was the smallest room we have ever been in. And the room rules state you cannot eat or drink in your room. This is a hotel for goodness sake. Very odd. We also had to leave the keys with reception when we went out. I will say again - air con was amazing.
We cooled down in our room for the afternoon then headed out to reacquaint ourselves with Venice. I fell in love with Venice on our trip last year and was looking forward to revisiting. Unfortunately it wasn't as "sparkly" as last time. Some places were a lot more touristy and the authentic feel was missing. There was also a lot more graffiti in places and some areas just felt run down. It is still a very unique city and I am glad we get to visit again.
The great thing about visiting a second time though is that we were able to find our way around a lot easier with less wrong turns. Although you can never take a wrong turn in Venice. Everywhere you look there is something to see and admire. Due to the heat it was still extremely hazy, even late afternoon, but we still got to admire the Venice charm. We are looking forward to our next few days in Venice.Læs mere
As we were changing accommodation today, we didn't venture too far from the Cannaregio area until we were able to check into our apartment for the next few nights. And what a nice apartment it was. Lots of room and beautifully decorated. A big change from last night's accommodation. We spend a lovely morning just exploring the lanes and alleyways and enjoyed a delicious lunch in one of many cafes.
This afternoon, once the day got a little cooler, we made our way over to the Piazza San Marco in hopes of visiting San Marco Basilica. We were determined to see inside the basilica this visit.. However, it was not to be – not only was there still a long line up, it also closed in fifteen minutes. We knew we wouldn’t make it in in time so with plans to try again another day, we wandered around the Piazza instead, admiring the beauty of the square.
Piazza San Marco, as we know it, is actually two piazzas, Piazza San Marco and the Piazzetta which is the part that extends towards the lagoon. Together they form the social, religious and political centre of Venice. There are so many photographic moments in the piazza with each building being an amazing work of design and architecture. This was one of those places that I was so disappointed that I didn’t have my good camera with its fabulous zoom lens. Still there was so much to just admire and be amazed at.
At the eastern end of the piazza is the great church of St Mark, San Marco Basilica, which has such a beautifully, elaborate façade with its huge arches and marble decorations and amazing statues. The four horses on its roof overlooking the whole piazza are very impressive. Such an amazing building to admire and photograph.
One of my favourites is the Clock Tower, Torre dell’Orologio, completed in 1499. Topped with two great bronze figures, one old and the other young to show the passing of time, that strike the hours on a bell. Below that is a statue of the Winged Lion of Saint Mark with an open book. The next level contains statues of the Virgin and Child in gilt beaten copper, with two large panels on either side showing the time, the hour on the left in Roman numerals and the minutes on the right in Arabic numerals. And below that is my favourite part, the great clock face in blue and gold inside a fixed circle of marble engraved with the 24 hours of the day in Roman numerals. There is so much detail in the clock itself that make it one of the memorable monuments of the piazza.
The other two buildings that always get my attention are the Doge’s Palace and the National Library of St Mark’s, both situated in the Piazzetta. The Doge’s Palace, Palazzo Ducale, the residence of the Doge of Venice, was originally built in 810. However, no trace remains of that 9th century building as the palace was partially destroyed in the 10th century by a fire. The reconstruction was undertaken from 1172 to 1178 with many changes made over the years as it was partially destroyed three more times by fires. Now a museum, this building is a work of art itself, with its striking Gothic style exterior made from patterned brick and complete with elaborate arches and sculptures.
The National Library of St Mark’s, Biblioteca Marciana, is one of the earliest surviving public manuscript depositories in Italy, holding one of the greatest classical texts collections in the world. The building began in 1537 and was completed in 1553 and is a building full of so many details that make it so unique from the ground floor arches to the roofline of classical nude statues by various artists. It is a feast for the eyes, and it takes some time to appreciate its amazing structure.
The two bronze statues on large granite columns at the entrance of the piazza are also worth a mention. One is the Lion of Venice, an ancient bronze winged lion sculpture that symbolizes the city and was erected between 1172 and 1177. The Lion in its present form is a composite of different pieces of bronze created at very different times, showing the extensive restoration and repair work from various times. It has been concluded that the Lion itself was created between the end of the 4th and the beginning of the 3rd centuries BC and was likely significantly different to the Lion of today, and, predating Christianity, would not have originally had any association with Saint Mark.
The other statue that always intrigues me, is of St. Theodore of Amasea, the first patron of the city, a Greek warrior saint, and the first chapel of the Doge was dedicated to him. Built about 819, this statue represents him holding a spear and standing on a crocodile to represent the dragon which he was said to have slain. Today it is made up of parts of antique statues and is a copy, with the original being kept in the Doge’s Palace. It was the crocodile that always puzzled and amused it, especially with such regal looking statues everywhere else, this one always felt a bit less serious.
The Piazza San Marco IS Venice and it is always such an amazing feeling to be standing there amongst such beautiful historic buildings. Brad gets the tingles from the Leaning Tower of Pisa, but Piazza San Marco gets me every time.Læs mere