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L’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022
  • Debi Shaw

L’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022

Italy is calling us home. And home is where the heart it. It has been way too long. Les mer
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  • Reisens start
    4. september 2022
    Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    We are on our way

    4. september 2022, Australia ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    It has been a long time coming but we are finally on our way. Watch out Italy, we are coming back.

    So not the best start. Our plane had an owl fly into one of the engines as we were about to take off which meant we had to return to the airport. Delayed our take off by two hours while we waited for clearance. Let’s hope we make our connecting flight.Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Our Roman Home

    5. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We have finally arrived after yet another delay, but thankfully we made it. We arrived to very hot weather, feeling exhausted and grotty, and desperate to get to our accommodation to shower and rest. However those feelings faded very quickly as we entered the historic area of Rome, and our taxi driver enthusiastically gave us a mini tour on our way in.

    While this is our fourth time visiting Rome, there is still so much we want to see, and the excitement of seeing some of these places on the drive in wiped out our feelings of exhaustion. Against the bluest of blue skies, the stone and marble monuments we passed reminded us of our love for the history of this place. We can’t wait to get out there and explore.

    Our accommodation is lovely and is situated in a building built in the 1500s. The amazing wooden door with its giant knocker, the internal road, arches and courtyard, and the worn marble stairs all show the history of this place. Thankfully though our accommodation internally is modern, compact and has everything we need for the next four nights.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Pantheon, Rome

    5. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    The heat as we arrived was quite unbearable so we decided to settle into our apartment, have a refreshing cold shower and rest until it was a bit cooler outside. Perfect strategy. By the time we had unpacked and freshened up, the weather had cooled and we were ready to have a short stroll around our “local” area.

    We are staying just doors away from the Pantheon, which is Brad’s favourite building in Rome. Thankfully we have been inside a couple of times as the line up snaked around the building and we could not face lining up today.

    And even though we have photographed this former Roman temple, built in 609 AD, we still had to stop and take another one - just to acknowledge we have finally made it back to Italy.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Trevi Fountain, Rome

    5. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    While Brad’s favourite site in Rome is the Pantheon, mine has to be the Trevi Fountain. While I usually prefer the lesser known “tourist” sites, for some reason the Trevi Fountain always draws me back. I love how the light plays on the stone and marble, the gorgeous turquoise waters, the colourful buildings nearby and the amazing artistry of the sculptors. It wins me over every time I see it.

    And you definitely can’t visit Rome without taking the obligatory selfie in front of it.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Obelisk of Montecitorio, Rome

    5. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We wandered a little further and came across the Obelisk of Montecitorio, an ancient Egyptian, red marble obelisk brought to Rome in 10 BC. At 33.97 metres high, it is a surprising structure to see standing against the definite Roman architecture.

    By this time we had decided we had done enough for our first day. The travel time had been huge and we were ready to call it a night, but not until we had enjoyed our first gelato in Italy. Not first ever gelato in Italy, just our first of many for this trip.

    We sat on the steps of the fountain overlooking the Pantheon and enjoyed our delicious Italian treats. Brad tried cherry and limone and I had cherry and coffee. My goal is to sample a gelato a day and not repeat a flavour.

    Once we had enjoyed/devoured our gelatos we decided to call it a day. An early night tonight before hitting the streets tomorrow.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Before the People of Rome Awaken

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    While I struggled to sleep with my body click still set to Brisbane time, Brad slept well and was awake early enough to explore our favourite sites before the sun rose and they were swamped by tourists. His photos are amazing.Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Mussolini’s Balcony, Rome

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Our first full day in Rome has been a big one, with an early morning start. We are so not Italian. They have their breakfasts at 10am whereas we are almost ready for lunch.

    First up was a walk past Mussolini’s Balcony, the balcony where Mussolini made some of his most famous speeches, including declaring war on Britain and France. Situated in Piazza Venezia, it is overlooked by the Altar of the Fatherland, a stunning white marble memorial monument. This place is breathtaking and I could spend hours admiring all the details, the gigantic statues, the ornate gate, this place of history. It grabs me every time we walk past it.Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Capitoline Hill, Rome

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    From here we made our way to Capitoline Hill. This is the site of Rome’s first temples and after falling into ruin it was restored to its former glory in the 16th century. Michelangelo was commissioned to create the long ramp-like steps leading up to the piazza, as well as the pedestal for the equestrian statue of Marcus Aurelius, the Roman emperor from 161 to 180.

    Capitoline Hill was the site of many major events in Roman history, including being the hiding place of Brutus and his cohorts after murdering Caesar. The hill provides a high refuge from the city and was even used to throw political criminals to their death on the Tarpeian Rocks below.

    The skill, the time and the artistry required to create such beautiful and detailed statues and stunning intricate buildings still amaze me. I am in awe.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Chiesa di Santa Maria in Portico, Rome

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Of course, in our wanderings, if we come across a church we will usually pop our heads in to check it out. Each church is so unique and full of history. The Chiesa Di Santa Maria in Portico in Campitelli was no exception. Dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, it is built on the site of a previous church dedicated to Santa Maria in Campitelli, as a shrine for a small ancient icon of Our Lady, that was believed by many to have miraculously halted a terrible plague epidemic in 1656.

    While this church isn’t as elaborate as others, the simplicity of the main alter gave it a real elegance against the elaborately decorated side alters. We were glad we stopped to check it out.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Passticeria il Boccione, Rome

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    After a bit more wandering we found the oldest surviving bakery in Rome’s Jewish Ghetto. This humble and unassuming bakery opened in 1815 and is famous for its crostata and pizza ebraica. The history behind the crostata shows the resourcefulness of the Jewish people.

    There isn’t anything outstanding about this bakery with its floor covered with flour and limited options of offerings, but to know we are standing in a place that has operated for over 200 years is amazing.

    I had read that we had to try a pizza ebraica which in fact, isn’t a pizza but a hard cookie studded with dried fruits and nuts. It was so delicious we ate it before remembering to take a photo.

    The Jewish quarter, once home to the Jewish Ghetto, is a place filled with such a devasting history. From 1886 - 1904, the ghetto was leveled and measures were taken to "start again" with a limited number of the origianal structures. Instead plaques now recall a former place and time, reminding all of the history of this place.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Mouth of Truth, Rome

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Next stop was the Mouth of Truth, where superstition has it that if you place your hand in the mouth of this ancient carving of a pagan god and tell a lie, your hand will be chopped off. Thankfully Brad and I passed the test.

    While no one is exactly sure when or why the frieze was created, there are a number of theories dating back to the 1st century. While the origin is up for debate the legend surrounding the stone carving biting the hand off a liar seems to have originated during the Middle Ages when the disc was supposedly used during trials. The accused put their hand in the slot and if found guilty a hidden axe man would lop off the appendage. And to think we put our hands in that same spot.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Skull of Saint Valentine, Rome

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    The Mouth of Truth sits at the entrance of the Basilica Di Santa Maria in Cosmedin, home to the skull of St. Valentine. In actual fact it is uncertain if this is the skull of St. Valentine, with at least 10 other places around the world claiming they have the saint’s relics.

    The church itself is very old, standing on the site of an ancient Roman temple that dates back to the second century B.C. Most of what is standing today dates back to the 8th and 12th centuries. It is simple and beautiful, with intricate mosaic floors and stunning altars.

    The church also contains Pope Hadrian’s Crypt. Constructed in the 8th century to store the relics taken from the catacombs of Pope Adrian I. While not as impressive as many we have seen, it was still worth seeing.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Temple of Hercules Victor and Portunus

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Across the road from the Basilica are two temples, the Temple of Hercules Victor and the Temple of Portunus.

    The Temple of Hercules Victor is a small Roman temple constructed around the year 120 BC, making it the oldest still-standing marble building in Rome, and the second oldest building in Rome. It is known as a tholos, a round Greek temple encircled by a Greek marble colonnade.

    The Temple of Portunus dates back to the 1st century and was dedicated to Portunus, the Roman god of doors, keys and livestock. It overlooks the port of Rome, watching over the goods entering the city.

    While we couldn’t go into these it is still amazing seeing these structures in such good condition, standing strong against the beautiful blue sky.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Stumbling Stones of Rome

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    One thing I was on the look out for while walking the Trastevere district was the Stolpersteine, German for “stumbling stones”. These are brass-plated cobblestones inscribed with the name of a Holocaust victim and the details of their death. They mark the specific place where the victim lived or worked before being forced from their home and sent to extermination camps.

    There are more than 200 of these mini memorial plaques in Rome and more than 30000 around Europe. They are part of a larger project by German artist Gunter Demnig who created the project in hopes that those that stumbled across them would take a moment to pause, look down in respect and reflect on those dark years.

    They certainly made us once again be thankful for the lives we have. It is so far out of our imagination that things like the Holocaust could actually happen, that people could be so strong in their beliefs that they would think their actions were the right actions, that trying to wipe out a whole race of people was acceptable. So hard to comprehend and so sad to be standing in the spot where that happened.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Er Faciolaro, Rome

    6. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We ended today by catching up for dinner with my Auntie Jenny and cousin Catherine. We can’t manage to catch up in Australia so why not catch up in Rome. We enjoyed an unbelievably delicious dinner at a restaurant we visited last time we were here, er Faciolaro, a family run restaurant in the Pantheon district. While we are always advised by travel sites to avoid the tourist area, this place offers authentic Italian food served by authentic charming Italian waiters. They definitely add to the whole experience, making this place one we would hugely recommend.

    And we love the welcome Prosecco to start the meal and the limoncello shot to end it with. It was a wonderful night of family and food. The perfect end to our first full day in Rome.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Colosseum of Rome

    7. september 2022, Italia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    After another restless night for me and a great night sleep for Brad, Brad was up early and off to see the sunrise over the Colosseum. He returned very happy with his photos (they are amazing) and the experience, and he even brought me breakfast in bed.Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Sant’ Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso, Rome

    7. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Another big day today with the heat making things a bit harder as we did a lot of walking! First stop this morning was Basilica dei Sant’ Ambrogio e Carlo al Corso, one of Rome’s grandest Baroque churches. Fun fact - Brad and I love churches. When we first started travelling, visiting a church was not on our agenda but after stepping into our first one, we now love a good church. For us it isn’t about religion, it is all about the history, the artistry, the construction, the decoration, and so much more. And this one had all that.

    Dedicated to Saint Ambrose and Saint Carlos Borromeo, the patron saints of Milan, we both agreed that this church is one of the most brilliant and amazing churches we have been in. With such a simple exterior we were so surprised by the interior. It is bold, bright, intricate and interesting. There was so much to see, from the expected to the unexpected. We loved it.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Il Babuino, The Baboon, Rome

    7. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    On our way to our next destination we passed by a very ugly looking 16th century statue. Known as Il Babuino, the baboon, it is one of six famous “talking statues”, collectively known as the Congregation of Wits.

    Beginning in the 16th century, the people of Rome would leave criticisms and witticisms at these statues. The unfriendly remarks were often about the Pope and the government authorities. Various Popes tried to stop the spread of such messages by either moving the statues or having them guarded, although their efforts were in vain.

    Il Babuino was originally meant to depict Silenus, a half-man, half-goat satyr from Roman mythology. However, people decided that the statue was so ugly, it actually looked more like a baboon. After so much beauty, it was surprising to see an ugly statue being preserved.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Piazza del Popolo, Rome

    7. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    We continued walking through the Piazza del Popolo, Rome’s landmark square in front of the city’s northern gate. This was the traveller’s first view of Rome upon arrival. For centuries it was a place for public executions, the last of which took place in 1826. Surrounding the piazza are three churches, two fountains and a portico, with an Egyptian obelisk in the centre.

    Surprisingly we only visited one of the churches, Basilica Parrocchiale Santa Maria del Popolo. Dating back to 1099, the church was a popular burial site for the aristocracy, clergy and literati, and was built on top of Nero’s grave. There are many tombstones set in the floor of the church, though many are now illegible from centuries of being walked on. It has a much darker appearance then the church we visited earlier, and it had some interesting features.

    This is a church of superstition and history. A walnut tree had grown right above the tomb of the notorious Emperor Nero, who ruthlessly persecuted Christians, and locals feared the area and considered it to be infested with demonic spirits evoked by Nero. Pope Pasquale II ordered the tree cut down to make room for a church in attempt to override the area’s terrible history. I do love the stories associated with these ancient sites.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Villa Borghese, Rome

    7. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    We then made our way to Villa Borghese, Rome’s largest public landscape park. Covering 148 acres, it contains many historic buildings, a lake, a temple, statues and museums. While we didn’t walk the entire 148 acres, it certainly felt like it. The views overlooking Rome from the gardens are expansive and the various structures are elaborately adorned with amazing stone and marble sculptures.

    We made sure to check out the Hydrochronometer, a type of water clock. It uses the force of water to move the pendulum and wind the clock and there are only two of these extremely rare clocks located in Rome, one in the Villa Borghese, and the other in Piazza Bernardino. Father Giovanni Batista Embriaco created this hydrochronometer in 1867, and after its completion, it was sent to the Paris Universal Exposition, where it received several awards. The clock returned to Rome in 1873 and was placed in the Villa Borghese gardens where it still stands today.

    While it was hot, it was worth the stroll - we think. We don’t know that we would strongly tell people that they must rush out and visit the Villa Borghese, but it was a pleasant way to send the morning. Unfortunately, I hadn’t pre booked tickets to the Gallery Borghese and that might have made all the difference.

    After a well-earned lunch in the park we decided to head home for an afternoon siesta. We totally get the concept and are embracing it, and it was that hot we needed it.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Vicus Caprarius, Rome

    7. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    After our well-earned afternoon nap we made our way to Vicus Caprarius, an archeological site underneath the famous Trevi district. Nicknamed the “City of Water” it is an ancient Roman apartment complex dating to the 1st century, established after the Great Fire of 64. The site was discovered in the late 1990s during expansion work on the Cinema Trevi theatre above.

    It was amazing to see what has been discovered, with so many artefacts unearthed from the site, including terracotta figurines, African pottery and over 800 coins. The Aqua Virgo, one of the eleven aqueducts of ancient Rome, still discharges some of its water into the pools of Vicus Caprarius, while carrying water to the Trevi fountain.

    The water was crystal clear, and inviting in the heat we had been experiencing. It would have been lovely to have a cooling dip, if only that was on offer. It is mind blowing what is still being unearthed in this ancient city and we were so pleased we booked this tour.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Fiocco di Neve, Rome

    7. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    After our tour we dropped by our “local” gelatoria, Fiocco di Neve, for our daily gelato fix. We figured it was our third day there so it must now be our local. We did look at other gelatorias but they looked so clinical and commercial. Ours has charm and very friendly staff, and more importantly lots of flavours to choose from. This time I tried Bisotto and it was delicious. Brad chose Amarena, black cherry, again as he enjoyed it so much the first day.

    We wandered past the Trevi Fountain (again) and took a couple of photos (again), wandered past the Pantheon (we have to as it is on our way home) and took some photos (again). We never get tired of these historic sites, and we love to capture them in different light at different times of the day.

    Gelatos eaten, sites seen, we decided to call it a day.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Piazza Navona, Rome

    8. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    With the weather forecast not the best for today we decided to head to Piazza Navona, one of our favourite piazzas, for breakfast. What we didn’t take into account was that the cafes were not open for breakfast and did not open until 10am. With the rain starting to fall we took a few photos (how could we not) and found a cafe closer to home for a pancake breakfast. While this is not something we would usually have in Italy, it was nice. And the location, Emporio Sant’ Eustachio, is not somewhere we would usually eat choose either as it was bright, yellow, shiny and new but it still had character. With its main focus on all things coffee, it was a great place for our final breakfast in Rome.

    As the weather wasn’t the best we snapped a few more photos on our way back to the apartment to relax for the day and catch up on some sleep. We needed it.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Antica Salumeria, Rome

    8. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We ventured out again for Linner (lunch/dinner) at Antica Salumeria in the Piazza Della Rotonda, the piazza in front of the Pantheon. We have stopped by this place for a look every time we have visited Rome but had not yet eaten there. Today was the day. Antica Salumeria is the oldest gourmet food shop in Rome and has been operating since 1375. Thankfully the meats weren’t that old, even if some of them looked it. We sat in the small back room and enjoyed a meat and cheese platter with some delicious Italian wine. It was such a great experience and I tried meats that I would usually avoid. I am being a bit more adventurous with my food selection on this trip.

    We followed this up with a gelato, once again from our “local” and I had Vaniglia (vanilla) and snickers (not very Roman but I couldn’t resist), and Brad had Pistacchio and Fragola (strawberry). We both agreed that the black cherry has been our favourite so far. We took our obligatory gelato pics in front of the Pantheon (plus a few more - you can never have enough photos) before having a night in and packing for our next location.

    Rome has been exciting, interesting, comforting (we know our way around) and hot, and we are so happy to be back in Italy.    Les mer

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  • Debi ShawL’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022Reisende

    Cafe Montanucci, Orvieto

    9. september 2022, Italia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    What a day! Our first train to Orvieto was cancelled due to train strikes, and the next train we managed to get tickets for was also cancelled - after we had boarded and were waiting for it to depart. After waiting in line for over an hour we were informed that they could not guarantee that the next available train to Orvieto would also not be cancelled. It was extremely frustrating, and we were already hot and tired. We decide to bite the bullet and pay a small fortune for a taxi to take us to Orvieto. We did not want to spend another night in Rome when our Orvieto apartment had already been booked and paid for, and we were so looking forward to getting there. While we were thrilled to be back in Rome and Italy, we couldn’t wait to get out of the bustling city and back to the small towns of Italy we love so much.

    Eventually we made it and were so happy with our decision. Orvieto is one of our favourite Italian towns and we are looking forward to our next few nights here. We had some time to kill before our host could meet us, so we made our way to our favourite cafe from our last visit, Cafe Montanucci, and I even impressed Brad with my navigation skills. I still remember my way around this old town.

    Lunch was more than welcome, and we enjoyed a delicious pasta and salad with a cold glass of vino bianco (white wine) and birra (beer). We have arrived in Orvieto!!    Les mer

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