L’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022

Italy is calling us home. And home is where the heart it. It has been way too long. Read more

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L’Italia, Il Mio Cuore - 2022 Traveler
Mignon on the Lake, Como
September 29, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 15 °C
Today the weather had no idea what it was doing and neither did we. It was fine enough to venture out for a walk around the lake (just the Como end, not the full lake) and on the way we decided to sit and have a very late breakfast. One great advantage about staying in places longer is that we have more time to just wander the streets and laneways and we have come across some lovely piazzas, cafe precincts, and stores.

Our plan of a late breakfast turned into lunch after looking at the menu filled with enticing food and drinks. I tried a new cocktail called Hugo, which I hope to replicate once we get home. Delicious!!

The weather turned while we were eating so instead of a stroll around the lake we opted for a brief walk around the streets before heading back to our apartment as the rain started. The sun then shone again and as we thought about heading out once more, the dark clouds rolled in. We ended up with a lazy afternoon in, reading a book while being entertained by a busker with his accordion below our apartment window. Not a bad way to spend the day.Read more
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Doppio Malto, Como
September 30, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
Well today had to have been our least favourite of the trip so far. Woke up to heavy rain which hardly let up all day.

We ventured out to a nearby cafe, one of the few open and undercover. The meal was a fizzer, just like the weather.

Brad’s spaghetti had the immediate taste of being from a can and my hamburger was just awful. The beer and Prosecco were also foul and as can be seen by our pics, we couldn’t finish the meal. It was just bad.

The weather forecast for tomorrow is a lot better so fingers crossed we have a great day for our last day in Como.Read more
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Last Day in Como
October 1, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
While our plans for our time at Como didn’t eventuate thanks to the weather being non-compliant, we have still enjoyed our time here. This morning we actually saw the sun again and the blue skies returned this afternoon. While the weather still wasn’t the best to go ferry hopping, we opted for a leisurely stroll along the lake.

Situated in the beautiful gardens is the humbling site of Monumento alla Resistenza Europea, a monument to the European resistance. It contains stones from Nazi concentration camps and the city of Hiroshima, with commemorative stones containing messages of people sentenced to death during World War II. It is such a poignant reminder of how incredibly lucky we are to live the life we do.

While is was still overcast this morning, the views around the lake were beautiful. The other monument we admired was the giant sculpture situated at the end of pier in the middle of the boat harbour. Called Life Electric, this 14 metre high steel structure was conceived to honour Alessandro Volta, a native of Como, who invented the electrochemical battery. The mirrored curves of the sculpture reflected the light and surroundings and was beautiful from every angle.Read more
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Lake Cafe, Como
October 1, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
We continued our walk around the harbour and sampled a fritelle sempilici, similar to a flat donut covered in sugar. A warm and tasty treat to enjoy on a cooler day.

After checking out some of the buildings and monuments we made our back to the Duomo Piazza where we did a mini bar hop, with our last stp being front row seats at Lake Caffe, where we could admire the Duomo while enjoying a couple of cocktails. We do love how drinks in Italy are often accompanied by complementary snacks. These snacks, like today, end up being lunch as they can be quite substantial and filling. It was a lovely way to spend our last afternoon in Como.

After a very relaxing afternoon we decided on take away arancini for dinner back in our apartment, which was delicious, before ducking out for our daily gelato fix. Can it get any better than this.??!!

Como has been a great stop for the last five days. We didn’t get out on the ferries as much as we would have liked due to the sometimes ordinary conditions, but the weather Gods are smiling and the next couple of weeks are looking good.

Tomorrow we head to Parma.Read more
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Parma
October 2, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Today’s destination was Parma, famous for its Parmesan cheese and Parma ham, among other things. We haven’t been here before and it has taken us by surprise. It is such a pretty town filled with colourful buildings (which I love), picturesque laneways, stunning historic sites, many churches for us to explore, and way too many enticing restaurants and cafes. It is a foodie’s paradise so Brad is very happy - very VERY happy.

Today’s plan was to just acquaint ourselves with the town before our more in-depth exploration tomorrow. And what a beautiful day to just wander and admire the town. The bad weather didn’t follow us and we are back to unbelievable blue skies and warm sunshine. Perfect for taking photos of the amazing buildings and sites. #nofilter

We had our first of many delicious meals, with lunch at da Mat bistro cucina. And the food was AMAZING. We enjoyed an entree of torta fritta, a delicate fried puffy deliciousness which is basically dough that is fried in lard. It puffs up while cooking to form a pocket and can be cut open to stuff with prosciutto di parma. We followed this up with ravioli for me and pappardelle for Brad. Both meals were amazing, paired with the local wines and beers. It was a great introduction to the food we were looking forward to sampling in Parma.

We are so excited to see more tomorrow and have a food tour booked for Tuesday. I don’t think the scales will be my friend when we get home but you only live once.Read more
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Diocesan Museum Parma
October 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
We started off the day with our favourite Italian breakfast, one we hadn’t had since Montepulciano, a croissant, coffee and freshly squeezed orange juice, before heading to the Parma Cathedral, Baptistery and Monastero di San Giovanni Evangelista.

Our tickets also included a visit to the Diocesan Museum. We aren’t big “museum” people but do love the history preserved and displayed. This museum is quite small but one of the best displayed and informative ones we have visited.

What was interesting about this one is the style of the pieces, the paintings and the sculptures. The people depicted have an almost cartoon look to them which we have not seen elsewhere. They had a “modern” feel to them which made them more interesting. Having not come across any images when researching Parma, I had no idea how amazing and interesting the artwork would be.

It was a good intro to the next few stunning places we visited today. Parma is a place of beauty, artistry and history.Read more
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Duomo di Parma
October 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Following the museum we made our way into the cathedral, where once again our breath was taken away.

Well I had absolutely no idea what to expect from inside the Parma Cathedral. Jaw dropping and breathtaking - words and photos do not and cannot adequately describe the beauty, the talent or the feeling inside this Cathedral. Stunning, overwhelming, elaborate, intricate….

Dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, it is considered one of the finest examples of a Romanesque Cathedral in Italy and is particularly known for its fantastic interior frescoes. Construction began in 1059 and like all other structures has been remodelled and added to throughout the years. While the exterior doesn’t stand out as anything special, the interior is bursting with colour, even today, and is considered a fine example of Renaissance art. We absolutely loved it. I could have admired it for hours.

Stunning and we did not think it could be topped... but it was...Read more
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Baptistery of Parma
October 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Next to blow our minds was the Baptistery of Parma, along side the Cathedral. Commissioned in 1196, it is considered to be one of the most important Medieval monuments in Europe. Built from pink Verona marble in an octagonal shape, it dwarfs the Cathedral in size and stands higher than the central point on the roof of the Cathedral. Inside contains sixteen arches, forming alcoves each containing a painted scene, all 13th and 14th century frescoes and paintings. The most striking part is the painted domed ceiling with 16 rays coming out of the centre of the ceiling, corresponding to the arches.

Not only does the Baptistery hold stunning paintings and frescoes, it is also the site to interesting sculptures and statues. The styles of which is so different to many we have seen elsewhere. Statues representing the months and what work was performed each month adorn the eastern side of the Baptistery and I love the simplicity of these. Clean lines and curves in white marble, they look so smooth and almost have a comic looking affect to the style of them.

This is such an impressive structure. One of my highlights.Read more
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San Giovanni Evangelista Parma
October 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Tucked behind the Cathedral is another fantastic chucrh - San Giovanni Evangelista, the Church of Saint John the Evangelist. This church is part of a complex that includes a Benedictine convent and the San Giovanni Old Pharmacy. Originally a 10th century abbey and church, the current church was rebuilt from around 1498 to 1510.

Similar to the Cathedral (it still amazes me how many churches these small towns have so close together), it is made of the same pink marble and features several highly detailed sculputres and a bell tower that stands 73 metres high.

Its interior is elaborate, ornate and a bit more subdued with more golds and darker hues than the softer colours featured in the Cathedral. Many religious artworks by the renowned artist Correggio are on display. Yet another example of how incredibly talented the people of this era were, to be able to create and decorate such amazing structures.Read more
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Monastero di San Giovanni Evangelista
October 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Adjoining the church is the monastery of San Giovanni which also dates to the 10th century. While most of what we could see was unadorned and peaceful, the library was an explosion of colour and decoration, filled with frescos painted by two artists from Bologna, Giovanni Antonio Paganino and Ercole Pio. It took just one year for the artists to fresco the 21 metre long, 13 metre wide and 6 metre high hall. It is so impressive and the detail and subjects are so interesting. It has a different feel again to the other amazing places we have visited today.

The library has manuscripts dating back to the 15th century and over 40000 books that can indeed be loaned out.

This sort of stuff just blows my mind. It’s hard to believe we can walk in buildings and observe art and architecture that is around 1000 years old. Just amazing. I had added Parma to our holiday itinerary for its food history and had no clue that these amazing buildings would be the highlight of our trip for me.Read more
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Gallo d'Oro, Parma
October 3, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
After a day filled with sights to feed the soul, the body still needed to be fueled. We decided to try one of the restaurants our host had recommended and it was amazing. Dinner tonight was at Ristorante Gallo d’Oro, and once again, the food was delicious.

The only thing that did amuse us was our entree of parmesan cheese, which we thought we had to try as it is the food of the town. What we didn't expect was chunks of parmesan cheese served with two small bows of dipping sauces. No bread, no biscuits, nothing but cheese and we have to admit it was a bit overpowering. One nibble was all we needed. Thnakfully the rest of our meal was perfect and easy to devour.

To top our evening off we sat next to Kristy and John, a couple from Perth. It was nice being able to talk and laugh with people from Australia after being away from home for so long. These interludes just add to the whole experience.Read more
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Food Tour, Parma
October 4, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Parma is famous for its food and rich gastronomical tradition: two of its specialties are Parmigiano cheese and Prosciutto di Parma (Parma ham). Because of this we decided to take a guided food tour of the city. Our guide, Alessia took us on a foodie trek to some of the best establishments in Parma.

We started with aparetifs of prosciutto, salumi, bread and Lambrusco - a sparkling red wine, at Panino d’artista. This restaurant is a tribute to the composer Verdi and is decorated with many of his images and work. It was so good we ended up going back there for dinner tonight.

For the next course we had pasta and more bread at Officina Alimentare Dedicata. We tried having lunch there on our first day in Parma but it was fully booked, so it was good to be able to enjoy a meal there. Their pasta, like most of the restaurants in town, is hand made on site by a dedicated chef whose only job is to make all the pasta. The fresh pasta is so different to store bought that we are more than likely going to source fresh pasta for cooking when we get home.

Main course was from Salumeria Garibaldi and they provided a ‘picnic’ of locally sourced veal and potatoes. We walked up to the nearby university and ate our lunch sitting on the edge of the fountain. This was our least favourite course as it was quite rich and salty but we gave it a go.

To finish off the food tour we had gelato at Gelateria Ciacco, who only use natural plant based ingredients. The taste of the gelato was so fresh and with genuine, natural flavours.

After walking for about 5km between these food stops, which we needed to to burn off some of the calories, we went back to our apartment for our siesta.

This evening we returned to Panino d’artista for dinner in their adjoining restaurant, La Cucina del Maestro where we eventually enjoyed another delicious meal. Unfortunately they seemed to have forgotten us and we did have to wait quite some time to be served, but that gave us time to really enjoy the decor.

We had a massive food day and are both so full. But the plan was to take advantage of the Parma food experience while we were here and I think we have achieved our goal.Read more
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Perfect Parma
October 5, 2022 in Italy ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
Parma has been perfect. Being declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site because of the amount of protected foods that are made in this Provence, we vowed to try as many of their local delicacies as possible in our short time here. And we succeeded as we roll ourselves onto our last town before heading home.

Not only is Parma a gift to the taste buds, it is a town of beauty and many spectacular historic sites. The Parma Cathedral, the Baptistry of Parma and the Monastery of San Giovanni Evangelista are just breathtaking with their elaborately decorated surfaces, stunning and detailed frescoes and richness of textures, colours and materials. All three are very overwhelming and photographs just can’t honestly portray the beauty of these places, and the wonder. Once again we wonder at how these amazing structures were built and decorated, some over 1000 years ago. Mind officially blown. Parma has to be a highlight of our trip and being a “non-tourist” town it was a delight to experience and explore.Read more
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Arezzo
October 5, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
Today we arrived at our last town before starting our journey home, and we were unsure what to expect, as we changed our plans mid trip. Thankfully we have not been disappointed and Arezzo is going to be the perfect place to spend our last few days in Italy. Arezzo is a hilltop city in the Tuscan region and is very different to Parma, but still has its own unique charm. Dating from the 1st and 2nd centuries, it’s tall stone towers, wide elegant loggias, beautiful piazzas and ancient fortress, make this a town we are really going to enjoy exploring.

We love our traditional apartment, with its differing and original terrazzo floors and lightly frescoes walls. It just oozes Italian charm. And the view from the window of the cobblestones laneways, ancient buildings and Tuscan skies just makes my heart warm. We are ready to embrace Arezzo.Read more
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Piazza Grande, Arezzo
October 5, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
First up was a wander around town to get our bearings before stopping in the Piazza Grande to enjoy a couple of spritzes while admiring the buildings that surround it. This is the Italian life we love, sipping cocktails, nibbling on free snacks and people watching in a Grand Piazza. We followed up our complimentry snacks with a very delicious but simple lunch.

Piazza Grande is the heart and soul of Arezzo and the sloped, irregularly shaped piazza is the oldest square in Tuscany. Surrounded by palaces and towers with a blend of Medieval and Renaissance styles, it almost feels like we are in a stage setting and there is so much to see and admire. The perfect place to relax for the afternoon.Read more
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Palazzo della Fraternità dei Laici
October 5, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
After a relaxing few beverages and delicious lunch, we decided visit the Museo Palazzo Di Fraternita, Museum of the Fraternity. This is situated inside the palace of the Fraternity of the Lay, of which construction was started in 1375 and completed by Giorgio Vasari in the mid-16th century. It now has on display artwork, manuscripts and documents dating back to the 1400s. We were also able to go up to the clock tower to see the Astronomical Clock. Dating back to 1552 it is one of the rarest watches in Europe, unique in Italy for its size and type of functionality. It does seem to ring randomly though.

The views over the Grand Piazza and Arezza from the top of the clock tower showed us how much we have to explore, from the churches in the distance to the numerous towers. We finished the day with dinner of pasta and ragu back in our room before an early night. We can’t wait to see it all tomorrow.Read more
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Santa Maria della Pieve, Arezzo
October 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C
After a very restful sleep we hit the streets, ready to take in all that makes up Arezzo. Of course we had to start the day with a coffee and croissant, and lucky me, Brad found a pasticceria nearby so I could enjoy breakfast in bed.

First up for today was a visit to the Santa Maria della Pieve church, which dates as far back as 1088. The back of this church is part of the Piazza Grande so we got to admire its curved façade yesterday while enjoying our time in the square. With its front facade crumbling and unadorned, we were not expecting much inside. And to be honest, inside is quite basic. However, it does have a fantastic timber ceiling and dome which once again we could only marvel at the skills of the craftsman who created something that still stands almost 1000 years later.Read more
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Passeggio del Prato, Arezzo
October 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
We then made our way to the lush green park, Passeggio del Prato. The views over the countryside and the wandering pathways under the canopy of trees made it a joy to walk and relax. On the edge of the path is Fortezza Medicea, the city’s fortress that dates back to the 9th or 10th century. It was currently hosting an art exhibit and we weren’t interested enough to pay the expensive entrance price, so we strolled along the fortress walls. Once again another historic structure that is still standing today.

In the middle of the park is an impressive monument to Francesco Petrarca, an Italian poet of the early Renaissance. Born in 1304, the monument was erected in his honour on the sixth centenary of his birth. At four metres high the monument is full of detail and interest.Read more
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Duomo di Arezzo
October 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Next to the park is Arezzo’s Cathedral, Duomo di Arezzo, which was originally built on a nearby hill over the burial place of Donatus of Arezzo, who was martyred in 363. In 1203 it was moved within the city’s wall to the current site. Dedicated to Saint Donatus, the high altar houses a 14th century arch named after him.

The construction of the current structure, started in 1277, went through different phases, and ended in 1511. The façade was built in 1901–1914, replacing the previous, unfinished one, dating to the 15th century. The interior features seven stained glass windows which were executed in 1516-1524 by Guillaume de Marcillat, who also painted frescos of biblical scenes on the ceiling. The windows are stunning with the light shining through them and it always amazes us how these things have stood the test of time. And the frescoes on the ceiling have once again impressed us.Read more
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Art in Arezzo
October 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
To me, one of the more interesting things about the cathedral was actually the huge, tattooed marble hand sculpture placed on the courtyard of the church. Created by Fabio Viale, an Italian sculptor, it certainly makes a statement. The detail in this piece is phenomenal and this modern piece of art in front of such an old building, always makes a statement.

Outside of the Basilica of San Domenico, the next church we visited, is another amazing sculpture by Fabio Viale. Fabio impressive and eye-catching pieces have been exhibited in Italy, Russia, Germany and the United States. There are three pieces on display in front of three of the churches in Arezzo and a huge exhibition being held here too.

Many of his pieces are replications of classic sculptures decorated with numerous tattoos. Fabio creates the tattoos using ink that penetrates into the pores of the stone, similar to tattooing human skin. It is so mind blowing what he has created. The juxtaposition between the classic style sculptures and the dark tattoos makes these pieces ones to admire, marvel at and remember. I love them and their setting against the historic churches just adds to the overall experience of seeing them.

Scattered throughout the streets of Arezzo are small squares of street art. Some I had noticed in Florence when we were there last. By the artist Blurb, they are images of well known historic figures wearing goggles underwater. They seem out of place in the historic streets but aren’t offensive, just interesting.

There are also images by another artist, Lewom, whose work I have not seen before but really enjoy. I do love the random art we come across as we explore the streets, so much nicer than random graffiti. For me they add to the charm and enjoying of exploring the streets and laneways of these historic towns.

In complete opposite to the modern look of street art and "tattooed" sculptures, are five life-sized bronze sheep nestled amongst he ruins of the ancient city walls. Created by Karen Wilberding Diefenbach, they perfectly suit the landscape and feel like they are a part of the history of this place. I love the variety of all these pieces and they add to the appeal of Arezzo.Read more
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Basilica of San Domenico, Arezzo
October 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C
From one church to another, with the Basilica of San Domenico being our next stop. Like the Cathedral it is also dedicated to Saint Dominic and sits overlooking a square of the same name. It construction starting in 1275 and finishing in the 14th century, it an unassuming church, both outside and in. The interior features the remnants of frescoes painted by Agnolo di Lorentino, with only pieces remaining of each work of art. Even seeing them in this state is impressive. Just so much history.

The most important piece of art in the church is the wooden crucifx by Cimabue. Made of gold and tempera on wood, the crucifix is approximately 340 cm high by 270 cm wide and is positioned hanging above the altar. Its construction dates back to the 1360s, and is one of the artist’s first works.Read more
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Vasari Café, Arezzo
October 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C
By this time we’d worked up an appetite so headed to the Piazza Grande for drinks and a light lunch. We went back to the Vasari Cafe that we’d enjoyed so much yesterday.

The staff are so good and have a bit of fun. While Brad was busy trying to get a good photo of our cocktails the waitress appeared behind him with our lunch and asked, ‘Do you want to eat!’ In other words, get out of my way so I can put the food down. We do love the servers who interact with us and have a sense of humor. Adds to the overall experience.

We loved this cafe so much that we ended up eating at least one meal here every day. And of course, it ended up being our go to for our afternoon drinks. It was the perfect place to watch the world go by, to relax and just take in where we are and appreciate how lucky we are to be here.Read more
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Trattoria il Saraceno, Arezzo
October 6, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C
After our afternoon siesta (I wonder if we can incorporate this practice into our lives back home), we headed out for dinner and were greeted by another pretty sunset. Being back in Tuscany just makes us feel good.

Dinner was at Trattoria Il Saraceno, a very traditional Italian restaurant where little English is spoken. It was hard for Brad to pass up on the rabbit dish he had been wanting to try for some time, while I had a local pasta dish as every town has its own specialty.

Great wine, great dessert and a great way to finish our day. We do love eating where the locals eat, it is a real authentic experience.Read more
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Chiesa di S. Agostino, Arezzo
October 7, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
We had a quieter day today, starting with yet another church. While it wasn’t on our agenda we passed it on our way to the Arezzo International Food Fair. Not something we thought we would be doing in a small Italian town.

Chiesa di. San Agostina, Church of Saint Agostina, originally dates back to the 1300s and has undergone many changes and rebuilds through the years. It is now a simple and pretty church, so different to the others we have visited here. With colours of soft pastels, it has a very soothing feel and reminds me of the sugar Easter eggs. It was a good pitstop on our way out this morning.Read more
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International Food Fair, Arezzo
October 7, 2022 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C
Next stop was the Arezzo International Foold Fair and what surprised us was how expansive it was. We enjoyed checking out the stalls and tasting samples while being entertained by flamenco dancers. We eventually decided on some Greek food for lunch but we very disappointed. We should have stuck with Italian.

This afternoon we returned to the Piazza Grande for a few drinks and a light dinner of prosciutto with melon and vegetarian bruschetta which we thoroughly enjoyed. It was a bittersweet evening knowing that our time was coming to an end and we only had a couple of days left in Italy. I have come to realise that I will never tire of Italy, it has captured my soul.Read more
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