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A solo walking trip from St Malo to Tréguier Read more
  • Pam Simpson

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Backpacking, Hiking, Nature, Solo travel
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  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path

    St Malo to Dinard to Lancieux

    May 12 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Today's journey started just like yesterday's - I got lost!🙄😂 I turned right instead of left when leaving the port and, fortunately, had only walked a couple of hundred metres before I realised my (very common, let's face it) mistake. I asked a man (in French) where the boat for Dinard sailed from, and he replied in perfect English 😂. There was a bit of a wait for the boat, but I was surrounded by Brit cyclists and it was good to hear English voices. The boat trip took just 10 minutes but cut off a walk of 13.5km.
    It was simple (even for me) when we reached Dinard to find the GR34 - just turn right and keep the sea to your right. Which I managed to do for the vast majority of the route 👏👏👏. As well as walking along promenades, I climbed up and down little hills, bimbled up and down lots of steps, clambered over rocks and got 'lost' only two or three times. Each time, I either found my own way back to the route (thanks to Komoot) or was pointed in the right direction by a French person, in English 😂.
    One lady asked me if I was randonéeing so I told her (in French) that I was walking the GR34 - which she was doing! She then told me she didn't speak English, even though I'd spoken in French🙄😂. Didn't think I was that bad!
    After a very nice lunch stop half way, in St Lunaire, where i came upon a very passable Brittany Coke Zero, I carried on for Lancieux. The heavens opened a couple of times, the first time typically, when I was climbing a hill. But I reached my apartment with little difficulty and, after a shower and clothes wash, went out in search of something to eat. Google told me there were no shops nearby (and I wasn't prepared to do a 5+km round trip just for half a baguette and some cheese), but there were restaurants. So I bimbled down to the beach and found Les Sardines. You might think they served... sardines? Nah - the only thing I could have, after a 20+km day, was either bread with pesto, or a gaufre. I had both! I had some difficulty understanding that the pesto wasn't made from bears' who knows what?😂 I can only imagine the garlic cloves are very large! But it was delicious, just not what I wanted.
    Tomorrow is a very long day (over 32km) which I'm certainly not doing! I'm now going to plan my shortcuts and taxi ride🤗🤗🤗    Read more

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path
    1

    Lancieux to St Cast Le Guildo

    May 13 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    with a big chunk cut off!!!

    Today's walk was supposed to be 32.7km, which I didn't want to do. I'm not out to beast myself, I just want to enjoy some gentle walking along the coast of Brittany. It's not terribly gentle at times - if you could hear me huffing and puffing...😂 but I'd already worked out a shortcut or two and so managed to keep my walk to just under 20km.
    I'd slept really well, but I'd lost an hour the night before, so I was due a good sleep. I found myself in bed by 2030, after my unusual supper of bear's garlic pesto and bread, followed by a gaufre. But it was a very welcome early night despite the night still being young (I found the switches for the window blinds in the morning 🙄😂). Breakfast was a sachet of porridge I'd packed, just in case, and I have 2 more 'just in cases' left!
    The lack of shops along the way, even in the larger villages, is frustrating (it's definitely not a camino route!) so I have to make sure I'm well stocked. I am, of course, but it's extra weight I wouldn't have to carry if I knew I'd be passing through places with the odd tabac or boulangerie!
    Anyway - I'd found a route for today's walk to lead me to the GR34 without having to backtrack, and followed that through some beautiful little communes until I came to a directional choice. Main road or back route. A lady pointed me in the direction of the back route, which was totally counterintuitive to me and my sense of direction. Need I say more? She was right, I was wrong😂.
    I soon found myself back on the GR34 and heading for the big bit I definitely didn't want to do! I did my biggest detour at Trégon and walked along the D786 to Notre Dame du Guildo, cutting off 12km of uppy downy stuff, but only adding about 4km of level walking. It was roadside walking, but the traffic wasn't that bad.
    I stopped in NDdG for a rest but, as ever, the shops were few and far between. I did manage to find a boulangerie and a tabac, though, and enjoyed a Breton-style almond croissant with an Orangina. The croissant wasn't our style - it was heavy, stodgy and just what I needed😂.
    From there it was a short walk to reconnect with the GR34 and then began the afternoon's uppy downy bit! There were a few headlands to cross, and the views were spectacular. This is a prime oyster/mussel area and you could see the beds in the sea. There were a few very old beds closer to the shore, and I wondered if the shoreline had changed such that they'd had to move them further out to sea? The walk was tiring but just wonderful. I saw no-one and just had the bird song and waves to keep me company.
    St Cast le Guildo soon came in sight but was still 6/7km away around yet another headland. There was a kilometre or so on the sand, which was horrid, and even Sid was frightened by the size of the monster's footprints!
    But at least this is a real town! My apartment (when I eventually found it🙄😂) is lovely and has an amazing view. I just wanted a shower and to shop for this evening's goodies. The owner doesn't usually hire the apartment out just for one night and visitors obviously have to bring their own bedding and towels. I have his! 😂 I also had to shower with washing up liquid 😬😂😂. But I'm clean and I've been able to shop at a Carrefour and enjoy an ice cream. I had problems getting back into the apartment (when I found it - a very nice gardener helped me!) so I'm not venturing out again🤪.
    I'm stocked up for the night, though, and am hoping for another good night's sleep.
    Apparently, the sunrise is spectacular from the balcony. I'll let you know...    Read more

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path

    St Cast to Petit Trécelin

    May 14 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    After another good night's sleep I took things easy, making a sort of breakfast and sort of lunch from yesterday's left overs. The bread was drying up but I filled it with left over ham and hoped for the best - wishful thinking😂.
    The promised 'amazing' sunrise wasn't anything fabulous, to be honest! I've seen better from Andover😂, but the setting was exceptional.
    My washing had dried from the day before, so I packed up my backpack and left at about 0840, knowing today was a shorter day's walking. I took a detour into town to the boulangerie and had une chocolatier, which I ate on the seafront, watching a few brave swimmers.
    Today's route took me along the seafront to the port of St Cast and from there it climbed up to the Pointe de l'Isle de Semaphore. The path then alternated then between coast and woodland, but it was always very pleasant, and the signs were easy to follow. I was pleased to see two walkers ahead of me and ultimately I've encountered more walkers today, than on the previous two days. In fact, I'm sitting with about 7 others waiting for our hotel in Petit Trécelin to open! I've discovered 2 ladies are Kiwis, so I'm hoping for a conversation in English this evening!
    Today's bimble was very nice! It was a much more gentle walk but also a lot slower. There were lots of rocks, stones and tree roots to trip over and, because quite a bit of the route was in shade, the floor was wet and slippy, so I was ultra careful. The last thing I want to do is injure myself with no-one to look after me🙄😂. The GR34 is very good for directions and safety. There are regular updates using the usual GR colours, but also numbered stations that you can alert the rescue services to help find you, should you need to. The only thing is, you have to remember the last number you saw - I tested myself and got it wrong every time😬.
    The views down to the bays were amazing and I'm sure some of the beaches I saw could only be reached by boat. One beach had just 2 sets of footprints on it.
    I came upon a rather large toad today and managed to photograph him before he leapt back into the wood. Horses, ponies, caterpillars, butterflies, cows and birds kept me company and I managed to identify chiff chaff, black caps, wrens and robins - they were so loud in the silence! The countryside definitely reminded me of summer holidays in North Wales, and the smell just added to the overall effect😂. The final kilometre to the hotel was through a fabulous ancient woid. I can only imagine all those garlic bears live in it😱😂.
    Whilst waiting for the hotel to open, I searched in my backpack for an energy bar. I managed, though, to puncture a bag of savoury rice, which emptied over a few of my things. I've managed to empty it out, but you can imagine the stink 🙄😬😂.
    My smalls are washed, I'm washed, and I'm now sitting enjoying a beer and nibbles - life's good 🤗🤗🤗    Read more

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path
    1

    Petit Trécelin to Sables d'Or les Pins

    May 15 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    All of the guests in the hotel yesterday were walkers but I didn't get to speak to the ladies from New Zealand at dinner. I enjoyed saucisse lentilles, bread, butter, cheese and a very nice tarte of pineapple and coconut. Washed down with a local beer, it was perfect (and the first 'real' meal I've had!)
    My washing was already dry and ready to be packed. I'd sorted out my shortcuts for today, should I feel the need, and I had my Factor50 ready.
    Bed beckoned, but I woke at midnight and there were owls outside twitting and twooing like mad! A surprisingly comforting sound 🤗.
    Breakfast was a simple affair, and I'd ordered a pique-nique lunch, so I was on the road by 0850.
    The start of today's walk was glorious. It led me through a wood where I walked all on my own, and all I could hear was the birds singing. I identified (thanks to Merlin!) robin, chiffchaff, wren and blackcap. There were lots of wren eggq shells on the path, they were tiny and very crunchy when you stepped on them🙄😂.
    I'd decided to take the shortcut, so cutting off at Port St Géran and heading towards Plévenon. The route took me through arable farmland and some lovely little villages, and I was glad I'd decided to make that choice as a lot of the walk had blocked my view of the sea.
    In Plévenon I was amazed to find... a butchers, a bakers, (no candlestick makers, although there was a potter, who I'm sure would've turned a few if you'd asked!) and a Tabac/restaurant where I enjoyed an Orangina and a Bounty. It felt a little like civilisation ☺️. Then I was off again to meet the GR34 at Grèves den Bas. I was now in sand dune territory and there were quite a few of them. I don't really like walking on sand - I'm slow enough as it is, but there was no choice! The views were amazing, though, and one dune led down to a beach bar😃. There, I ate half of my baguette for lunch and washed it down with a ginger beer. I also enjoyed an ice cream (I asked for it in a tub, rather than a cornet, until I thought she was serving it to me in a mug!🤢😂. I quickly changed my mind, but it seems the mug was for the water to wash the scoop in 🙄 - but that was bad enough 😂).
    Sand dunes soon matured into heather and I felt like I was walking back in Surrey, on the heath. I even heard a few cuckoos today, for the first time on this walk. Cuckoos have marked each of our caminos (whether real or recorded 🙄) and their sound is a very nostalgic but happy reminder of our camino companion and joker, Nigel 🥰🥰🥰
    The route was now pretty flat and made its way down to Sables D'Or les Pins, where I'm staying for the night.
    Apparently the area was purchased by an entrepreneur in 1922 as he wanted to develop it to rival the likes of Deauville, which isn't far from the pad. Unfortunately, he went bankrupt in 1930 so he never realised his dreams. Today, however, there are so many new apartment blocks being built, plus new restaurants plus a Renault car dealership, it looks like his dream may be coming true! The area is beautiful and the beach is wide and long. I took a walk to the water - it was way out, and very cold! Sid tried to dip his toes, too - with disastrous results 😱😂
    There isn't much here to entertain visitors, apart from a small fun fair, a nautical centre, and a huge casino (and a gym if you're that bored!😂), but I can really see the attraction of the place as a 'do nothing and spend loads of money doing it' place! The price of hotel rooms is astronomical - even my apartment was OTT, but it's a fab place for the evening! Supper was burger and chips, not my usual menu, but it was very nice and I felt I'd earned it.    Read more

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path
    2

    Sables d'Or to Pléneuf Val Andre

    May 16 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    To say I'm shattered would be an understatement 😂.
    Sables d'Or being what it is (no shops, just restaurants) I had little hope of finding a boulangerie for a breakfast pastry. So sachet no. 2 of my porridge it was, then! (It's actually very nice!)
    I left the apartment by 0830 and rejoined the GR34 not far from the seafront. The walk out of town was flat to begin with, and the path looked back on the town. It's easy to imagine why the entrepreneur had seen the potential in the area, it's stunningly beautiful.
    After crossing two bridges and passing a camping ground, the path began to climb. Today's walk covered no fewer than 9 beaches! All of them empty and spotlessly clean. I walked on only a couple of them (sometimes there was no choice) but my view of them was mainly from the heights of a heath or wooded area. The path alternated between packed earth, small stones (so difficult) and, finally, massive stones that were so precarious, (but thankfully for only a couple of hundred metres). Every one of the 9 beaches meant there were 9 hills to climb and walk down. It was like the 7 Sisters on steroids!😂
    I'd stopped for a second breakfast (the rest of yesterday's packed lunch) after about 4km and met the two Kiwi ladies from 2 days ago. We walked together for a few kms until our routes split. They're only walking 10-15km a day (how wise!😂) and taking taxis when they're too tired. It made me think!🤔😃😂
    Lunch was taken in Cap d'Erquy, a Croque Monsieur followed by Flan, sitting on the beachfront in a cold wind, and I 'only' had 10km to walk from there. It was the slowest 10km I've ever walked, I think! The path was often only about 12 inches wide so my eyes were pointing down to make sure I didn't stumble; it was also incredibly stony and/or steep so I was taking baby steps for such a long time.
    There were a few other walkers but they all seemed to be a lot younger and sure footed 🙄😂 and we were often leaning out towards, or in away from, the precipice as we passed each other!
    The views were beautiful, though, and the day was definitely worth it when I spied the town. It's a typically French seaside town - lots of hotels, ice cream parlours, clothes shops, but all done with French flair - no Kiss Me Quick hats here!
    My hotel was right at the other end of the beach, of course 😬, but quite near a Carrefour, which was handy for a celebratory beer and some water.
    Tomorrow's a 26km day but I'm going to take a taxi part of the way. Today was about 22km and the thought of that plus another 4km will keep me awake 😂
    Supper was a galette and a really nice glass of Sauvignon (Quincy, Jan!) which will send me to sleep nicely.    Read more

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path
    1

    Pléneuf Val André to Hillion

    May 17 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Well, sort of...
    Pléneuf Val André was very nice and I slept well - everywhere is so quiet, no traffic noise, no all night party-ers.
    Breakfast was simple but delicious - croissants, bread, jam, muesli and yoghurt. I was ready for my somewhat shortened day.
    Taking a leaf out of the Kiwi ladies' book, and staying in the hotel last night (which made it much easier), I decided to cut today's 26.5km 'walk' down to 11km. I ordered a taxi for this morning which took me to Morieux, a small village not far from the GR34 route. The taxi driver spoke excellent English, so I gave up trying to communicate in French and we talked about her visits to the 🇬🇧 and my walks... She dropped me next to a lovely church and it was easy to follow the road to the Pont Rolland, a junction on the GR34. I'd expected the bridge to be something spectacular, but no, although there was a rather fabulous building on the banks of the river the bridge had crossed.
    The route climbed (quelle suprise) after the bridge but it was a gentle and enjoyable climb through woodland and across headlands, which continued for the rest of the route, obviously with the descents as well as the inclines. I came across a 'gate' where I had to take my backpack off to get through - I'm not sure what they would allow through the gap - small giraffes, llamas?
    The scenery was, as ever, spectacular, but I was pleased I'd chosen to wear my trousers and long-sleeved top today. The sun was shining, but it wasn't massively warm, and many of the paths I followed were bordered by grasses as tall as me!
    At one point, I passed mussel factories, closed today because it's Saturday. This area is the major mussel and scallop farming area of Brittany. 90% of Brittany's (and 50% of France's) scallops are harvested in this area from October to April each year.
    The route continued and, of course, the last few kilometres seemed to be the longest. The wind had dropped by now so I donned my hat and continued on, past the 'beach' at Hillion and into town. I'm not sure what the people on the beach were doing. Collecting cockles, maybe?
    Hillion is a smallish town but, praise be, it has a small supermarket! It also has a boucher and a boulanger. No candle stick maker - maybe i ought to think of a new career?😂
    The buildings in the centre of the town are all built of stone, but the house I'm staying in is a lovely new-build on an estate on the edge of this obviously growing town. The owner is clearly a camino pilgrim - there are many clues (books, photos) but I'm afraid my French isn't good enough to risk a conversation (even though I can bore for England on the topic of the camino de Santiago!😬😂)
    I've shopped and made sure I have provisions for this evening as well as tomorrow (Sunday, so who knows what I'll find?) I'm really looking forward to a Petit Salé for supper, with bread and cheese to follow. Then I have bread and cheese as a lunch tomorrow 😋. Whilst I was walking to the supermarket, a lady greeted me like I was an old friend! I didn't know what to do, but just said "je suis Anglaise". She rambled on, and I think she might've been saying something like, "but I saw you back there and we had a conversation!" I said, "j'ai une twin!" (not knowing the French for 'twin', Jan!) at which she apologised profusely and we both walked off, giggling!
    It's a 17km day to St Laurent tomorrow, but a lot of it is on the level. I can't wait to stride out 😂.    Read more

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path

    Hillion to Saint Laurent de la Mer

    May 18 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    As today was a short and pretty flat day, I'd decided to start later this morning. The walk was only 17km (plus the little bit to my hotel, which became a big bit😂) but, after waking at 0600, I ended up getting everything done (lunch made, breakfast eaten, washing and clothes repacked etc), so I was away by 0900. I reckoned I could just relax in St Laurent when I got here early.
    I found the GR34 after a bit of to-ing and fro-ing and turned to walk up the steps, putting my arms out in front of me to use my poles to hoik me up - no poles😱🙄😂. I'd left them behind! I'd been so careful about making sure I hadn't left anything behind from my backpack (specifically my charging cables!), I'd even put my poles at the door so I didn't forget them... 'nuff sed😂 So it was back to the accommodation to pick them up. In all, I added about 3km to my day🙄. But it didn't matter because today's walk was mostly flat. And it was! It was so good to get a good pace going instead of baby steps up and down hills. The downside was that the route was away from the coast for a good, long section, so I was just walking through fields and wooded areas. Still beautiful, but there were no hidden bays or beaches. It did eventually open out on to marsh and sand banks where there were plenty of birds to identify - the twitchers were out in force today, and even the chance to see seals, although I had no luck.
    In the past, there'd been a small railway running along the coast, and there was still evidence with carriages and railway track. It must've been a bit of a holiday region.
    There were lots of walkers today, along with families, cyclists and dog walkers and the route was quite busy.
    I stopped to eat some of my lunch at a quay side and the waft of cannabis was pretty evident! The area was quite 'hip', to be fair, with lovely colourful cottages and shacks, so maybe it was to be expected🤪.
    I could see Saint Laurent de la Mer, right across the harbour, just a couple of hundred metres away. To reach it, though, I had to walk 4km, all the way to the port and all the way back on the other side. And then I had to find my hotel. Accommodation was few and far between when I'd been booking it, so I'd either have had to walk past St Laurent or stay in a 4☆ hotel. I made the right choice 🤗 but it was a further couple of kms to get there, through fields and, fortunately, past a bar where i had a quick beer to celebrate nearly being there.
    The hotel was worth it, though. It's very nice and I have an apartment! I finished my lunch when I got here, washed down with a beer, and even had a bit of a snooze. The restaurant was closed, so supper was a microwaved meal in the hotel's dining room, but it was pretty posh!
    I'm giving myself time off now, taking a taxi to St Quay Portrieux tomorrow morning and spending a couple of days there. I'm looking forward to my rest so I may be silent for a couple of days...    Read more

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path
    1

    St Quay Portrieux

    May 19 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Just a few photos from today. Have done nothing and loved it 😂

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path
    2

    St Quay Portrieux 2

    May 21 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I spent yesterday doing nothing, and it was most peculiar, but wonderful 🤗. In the morning I walked back to the port, then returned to the apartment for lunch and an early afternoon nap 😅. The rest of the afternoon was spent wandering around town and sitting at the beach eating ice cream.
    This morning the clouds won't be replaced by sun - it's due to rain, so my waterproofs are waiting at the top of my backpack. My walking poles are hanging from the door handle so I don't forget them!
    I worked out how much farther my days feel like, walking up and down hills. Today's 20km would actually feel closer to 27km, which I definitely don't want to do 😂, so I've found a route that misses the biggest of the inclines (hopefully!). I'll let you know🙄🤔😂    Read more

  • Pam SimpsonTravelerBrittany Coastal Path

    St Quay Portrieux to Bréhec

    May 21 in France ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Aaarrrggghhh!!!!

    I've just spent an age recalling today's hike and somehow managed to delete it 😱😱😱 I'm not writing it again, sorry😂, but if anyone wants to know about the following, I'll tell them personally when I get back!😂😘

    Raining - I got wet (despite waterproofs!)
    Diversions - landslides and I didn't want to go over the edge.
    Fountain - Welsh monk, attacked (didn't like the look of him!). Water spouted from where he lay and healed him.
    Big scallop shell sculpture - not camino!
    Fishmongers - fresh from his boat this morning.
    Beautiful vistas, water, and wood.
    Shortcut not really a 'short' cut, but flat👍👍👍
    Cannelloni lunch. Then horses!
    Rejoining GR34 at Bonaparte beach, where Napoleon exercised his horses.
    Canadianvand British memorial for WWII.
    More uppy downy...
    Bréhec in sight but still an hour away on the route.
    View from my window, on top floor of hotel 🙄
    Fish n chips for supper 😋😋😋
    Book n bed.
    Paimpol tomorrow.
    Only 4 more days of walking 😱.

    Think that worked...😂😂😂    Read more

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