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Malta
  • Caroline Binns

Malta

A 9-day adventure by Caroline Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 4, 2017
    Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    There, then here

    October 4, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    After an unnecessary, but unsurprising, 3am wake up for both of us, the taxi arrives bang on time at 05.45. Security is efficient, we buy supplies and very quickly, it seems, we're belted into seats 3a and 3b.

    The flight leaves on time but we're delayed starting our descent into Malta due to the depression that is sitting over the island preventing us landing. We're warned of probable turbulence during the approach and landing, to the extent that the staff are handing out extra sick bags! In the event, the turbulence clears and Captaim Eammon executes a textbook landing.

    It's raining. A lot. Yuck.

    We whiz through this tiny airport and are in our taxi to St Julian's within minutes. We drop our bags at our apartment at midday but cannot stay long as the cleaner is due but do step quickly onto our terrace to check out the view.

    Then we potter off into the grey damp with the prospect of several hours to amuse ourselves. Thank goodness the rain has eased so we wander round the harbour checking things out for a while. Eventually it starts raining more again so we dip into Bar Moak, opposite Balutta Church, for some cold local beer, Cisk (pronounced Chisk), and some lunch, mussels for me and just tomato bruschetta for John, who had only recently eaten his Gatwick all-day-breakfast sandwich. We move on to the Irish pub, The Dubliner, for another beer until, finally, we can take possession of our apartment.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Now we feel we're here

    October 4, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We settle in and gradually the clouds begin to break up. We're not talking clear blue skies but enough to give us a teaser of what to expect. A small glass of red improves matters and I can see this terrace getting a lot of use over the next week.

    Our dinner reservation tonight is at Wigi, just next to where we ate at lunchtime. We need to arrive early if we're going to get one of their coveted window seats. We do! But by five past seven all four window tables are gone. We have a lovely view across the water to Balutta Church.

    We enjoy Thai style calamari fritti and beef carpaccio with celeriac remoulade for starters. I retract my avowed dislike of celeriac and redesignate my dislike to cooked celariac. Main courses are a local fish called meagre, in a delicate olive oil and lemon sauce and pink rack of lamb served with Moroccan spiced vegetables. Mmmm. Predictably, I am defeated too soon, leaving John with some of the fish and most of the lamb to deal with...

    Then back for final drinks on our terrace, before an early night.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Thursday morning

    October 5, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    It's still dark when I emerge onto the terrace with my coffee. It's also raining and seems cloudy so it doesn't look as if the depression has moved off just yet. As it lightens up, the rain stops but it is still grey and murky. At least it is a pleasant temperature to sit outside.

    Brief update : 07.50 and we seem to be in the midst of a thunderstorm... Luckily, our terrace is covered so it is still usable despite the rain lashing down.

    We shoot out to Dick's Bar for a fry up to get us going, before heading for Valetta for the day. Despite my misgivings, we find a bus easily and it's not long before are in Slimea, waiting in the queue for the Valetta ferry. It's raining again so everyone piles inside for the short crossing.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    What to do in Valetta in the rain?

    October 5, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    As we leave the ferry in the rain I spot a sign for a free exhibition, "Fort Builders" so we duck in there. It's a detailed and interesting exhibition about the development of the fortifications of Malta over two millennia. Malta has been so historically significant in the Med due to it's superb location in the channel between Italy and North Africa, dividing the Med into the east and west basins, it has been blessed with a magnificent harbour and is easily defendable so that maintaining strong defences has been of paramount importance to its many occupiers.

    We leave and, hey, no rain! So we start wandering the streets to get a sense of this city. After a while we swing by Ortygia, a Sicilian restaurant, for lunch and enjoy a platter of meats and cheeses. Stepping outside afterwards it's clear we have, again, escaped the rain!

    We check out the city gates, the massive walls, wander the streets and finally end up in Upper Barakka Gardens shortly before the firing of the evening gun at 4pm. This cannon was traditionly fired twice daily at noon and 4pm to advise any ships in the harbour of the correct time.

    We drift down the city, passing the arrival of a bride at a church, ending up right at the end where the massive St Elmo's Fort guards the harbour entrance. No time for a visit today so we head back to the ferry.

    One's in but there is such a huge line waiting that they leave without a lot of people. We join the remaining queue for the next ferry and are 74th and 75th in line (some of us have too much time on their hands!). This crossing the coveted seats are outside on top and we get two of the last. We're straight on a bus after disembarking, and crawl back to San Giljan in the evening traffic.

    Next, a couple of asides...    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Maltese balconies

    October 5, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    As you wander the streets of Valetta, take the time to look up and you will see the unique Maltese balconies in abundance. Their origins are vague but one thought is that they were acceptable forms of decoration for the Knights whilst Valetta was being built. Others believe an Arab influence seems likely and it is a popular thought that women in the 18th century could sit hidden up there and watch the world go by.Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Local food for dinner!

    October 5, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We enjoy a couple of glasses of wine out on the terrace, whilst watching the lightning in the far distance on an almost continuous basis, before going out for dinner. The Indian we fancied was full so we choose Gululu which is very close to our apartment.

    Good news, the lampuki festival is on! We'll have to try it. But what is it? It sounds like it has the potential to be something perhaps slimey or maybe internal... Actually, it's the fish we also know as dorado or mahi-mahi. John has it served traditionally with a delicate caper sauce and I have a local dish of rabbit fried with garlic and then braised in white wine with herbs. We share and both are very good.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Mdina and the classic cars

    October 6, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We wait and wait for the 202 bus to Mdina. Finally it comes round the corner but it's full and doesn't stop for us... Just great. And the next bus isn't for another hour so we have to call a taxi, instead of using our already paid for bus passes. The taxi is air conditioned and quick so there are advantages over standing, crushed, on a hot bus for an hour.

    We walk through the huge main gate into beautiful Mdina, once the ancient capital of Malta. We explore the narrow steets and alleys, enjoying how pretty it is.

    The Classic Cars are on display in St Paul's Square, in front of the cathedral, so we head over there. We enjoy a glass of Prosecco and admire all these lovingly maintained cars, in the buzzy atmosphere.

    Then to Bacchus to share a Maltese platter of sausage, olives, sun dried tomato, cheese, octopus, bean dip, bread sticks and bruschetta for lunch. The restaurant is inside the old powder store with big arched ceilings.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Catacombs and cathedrals

    October 6, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    First stop are the tiny catacombs of St Cataldus, where there is no information but we can take pictures.

    And then it's on to the much bigger catacombs of St Agatha. We join a tour and learn a lot about catacombs : nobles and the rich have the central tombs, the middle class are in tombs around the walls and the poor were in tombs donated by the rich but in areas like corridors. If two tombs are together but there is no wall between then, that depicts that they were married, a wall and they weren't, priests were in tombs in the chapels. There are still remnants of paintings from two thousand years ago. The catacombs are huge but we are shown only a small but significant part, there's nothing in the remaining section that we haven't seen. So interesting to see but no photo taking is allowed.

    After that we return to the Classic Cars again, and then visit the cathedral and the cathedral museums, which had a lot of stuff on display but not much in the way of explanations so we whistled through fairly quickly. As we came out the Classic Cars were beginning to leave which was fun to see and hear - vroom, vroom!    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    This evening

    October 6, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Would you believe it? A packed 202 has driven straight past the crowded bus stop again. Again, the next bus isn't for another bloody hour. We wince at the price of a taxi home from Mdina but a couple overhear us and ask if we'd like to split the cost with them which, of course, we do. Chatting on the way back it turns out they were on the bus this morning that didn't stop for us. As well, they were eating in the same restaurant as us last night. Small world!

    Back at the apartment we have a glass of wine on the terrace, before walking to Peppino's for dinner. We're lucky enough to get their tiny arched, sea view balcony with just the one table. Perfect! We share a starter of razor clams and mussels gratinee , followed by sea bream and bass, which we split between us. We'd barely finished, when the traffic was stopped and a chanting procession celebrating Santa Maria came past. Always interesting to catch something local like that.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    To Mosta and beyond

    October 7, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    After yesterday's disastrous buses, we decide to use the hop-on, hop-off open top bus today, at a cost of 18 euros each. We're on it at 9, on the front seat at the top, and it takes us first to Slimea, then on through Valetta and across to Mosta, where I notice that there are really a lot of flagpoles. We hop off.

    We visit the Rotunda, the church with the fourth largest unsupported dome in Europe. It is 39m diameter across and 59m from the floor to the top. A German bomb went through the dome during the war but miraculously did not explode nor injure any of the congregation below!

    We follow brown tourist signs to somewhere. Sometimes we can't read signs as they also use Arabic letters. It turns out to be the Cultural Centre - it's in a pretty courtyard, there are some paintings and some old tools. That's about it. I think we'll just leave it as being a very minor tourist site...    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    To Mdina and beyond

    October 7, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We catch the next bus which takes us on to Mdina, which is where the time trials for the Classic Cars are taking place today. We can look down into the trench outside the city walls which is acting as the pits today. We recognise some of the cars from yesterday but there are a lot more than were on display in the concourse.

    We find a spot where we can see and watch as car after car sets off : Minis, Fiats, Jags, a wildly keen Honda which won last year, cautious drivers, keen drivers of lower powered cars...they're all here. We chat to a couple of big enthusiasts on either side of us. We laugh as the safety truck has to go to the assistance of a marshall who fell over a wall down a bank and couldn't get out! He was unhurt but probably deeply embarrassed! And we learn that almost all these Classic Cars are from Malta itself.

    Then we find Is-Serkin for lunch. We sample pastizzi and qassatat, which are different types of pasties. We had four (ricotta, pea, chicken and anchovy) pastizzi and a pea qassatat plus two beers for less than six euros!    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    And beyond...

    October 7, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    We catch the next bus to complete our circuit of the northern loop of the island. We sit on the top again, it's hot and windy but all very pleasant. We pass a big church. We arrive back at Spinola Point around 3pm after very nice day out with lot less transport hassles than yesterday.Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Notte Bianca

    October 7, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    This is the festival of White Night, which celebrates all thing cultural in Malta. The streets and buildings of Valetta are lit up and the city hosts a huge range of cultural events.

    We bussed to Slimea and joined the massive queue for the ferry. We were amongst the first to board the second boat so got a good seat on the top, outside deck from where we saw the firework display. It was spectacularly underwhelming as it was still broad daylight... It took forever to load the ferry as the queue was massive and we suspected it was quite overloaded. No matter, we arrived safely and Valetta looked lovely in the evening sun.

    Our first ports of call were to visit the church with the dome and the next door cathedral with the spire which dominate Malta's skyline. The former being a Catholic church and the later being St Paul's Pro Cathedral, which is a totally different simpler style than all the other churches we've visited here. The Pro part of the name means it is a cathedral which it's not supported by its own bishop.

    We wander through the streets which are gradually being lit up as it darkens and are gradually filling up as 7pm, kickoff, approaches. We find the acclaimed Nenu for dinner but they won't take a reservation so we chance waiting for the huge bell ringing citywide at 7pm which announces the start of the festival. A few minutes past we give up and return to the restaurant where, luckily, a final table for two still remains. The maitre d' shrugs her shoulders when we tell her about the bells and simply says "Maltese time". We have the Maltese speciality, beef olives which is herby minced pork wrapped in a slice of beef which is braised in tomato sauce and chicken ftira, which is the Maltese version of pizza. And John finally discovers the Maltese wine, Laurenti, that he has been on the lookout for.

    Then we hit the streets. It is packed. Valetta is expecting to host something like 60 000 revellers tonight.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    The Festival

    October 7, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    The streets are packed. We see singers and fire jugglers. We pop into the University and see their student designed car. A young man holds a group spellbound playing his harp in a tiny church. The National Archeological Centre is open. A group is passionately declaiming Maltese poetry. A band amuses us with Irish folk songs. Buildings and roads are lit up and all the churches are open. Even Parliament is open if you are prepared to jump through their security hoops. People spill out of every restaurant and bar. Big bands are playing and kids are loving dancing on a stage where their magnified image is displayed on a screen as dancing lightbulb people. And there was so much more.

    Eventually we stop for a drink and a bit of people watching, before heading back to the ferry.

    The queue is enormous but a chartered ferry is just docking. Or trying to. After a while they manage to get the 20 or so passengers off but deem it too dangerous to try to board the several hundred people waiting. The boat is going up and down, and backwards and forwards and plainly it is unsafe. We don't think there's a chance of us making it onto the next regular ferry, assuming it can even dock, so decide to go for the buses.

    It's a long walk round Valetta to the bus station but we make it, and the fun begins. We don't make it onto the first bus to St Giljan but another arrives quickly. Now the crush really starts. The conductor only opens one door but everyone is determined that they are getting on. The problem was people paying cash which held up the queue so boarding was painfully slow, whilst the back of the crowd pushed forwards pushing those by the doors into the side of the bus with nowhere else to go. I'm shoved into someone and beginning to lose my footing before I get to the door and can board, a quick tap of my card and I'm in. And I get us the last two seats! Moments later John is next to me and it all becomes civilised again. The roads were clear so we were back home by 1am.

    So, I enjoyed the festival but I think I'll give those a buses a miss another time!    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    To the Three Cities

    October 8, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Across the harbour opposite Barakka Gardens are three promentaries of land that create magnificent harbours. The end of each promentary was fortified. Three Cities, Birgu, Senglea and Cospicua, subsequently grew around the main inlet to support the forts. We're here to do a bit of exploring today.

    We bus, ferry, mini bus and ferry again to Birgu, catching the Noon Gun being fired as we cross the harbour. It's taken us two hours, mainly due to waiting for the ferry and ridiculous loading times. I'm beginning to go off the ferries.

    We cross round the top of the harbour to Senglea and walk the length of the quayside, admiring the harbour and town opposite. We climb up to the garden at the top for the sweeping views and walk the length of the pretty main street, before deciding on a quick pasta lunch down by the water.

    After that we walk back around to Birgu for a spot more pottering around the streets and view admiring. As we are here, we decide to visit Fort San Angelo.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Fort San Angelo

    October 8, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    There has been a fort on this spot since medieval times. The Knights of St John rebuilt it and during the 1565 Great Seige of Malta it became their headquarters. It was garrisoned by the British for nearly 180 years, until 1979.

    We're hot and sticky so decide it's time to leave. We see the ferry coming in and pick up speed. They execute an almost lightening turnaround this time and are already undoing the ropes as we yomp up! A few minutes later we're back in Valetta and take the lift to Upper Barakka Gardens, with the intent of returning to the other ferry for our journey home. Crossing Valetta, we are so close to the City Gate I suggest a bus might be quicker. It is. We're back less than an hour after jumping on the ferry.

    Dinner in Gululu is rabbit, followed by braised pork cheeks. Mmm...

    I've been keeping an eye on my pedometer and we've been averaging six miles a day. And, apart from the first two days, the weather has been really nice, probably hovering in the mid 20s and nice enough to sit outside first thing in the morning and in the evenings.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    To Marsaxlokk

    October 9, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We take the open top bus to the traditional fishing village of Marsarlokk (pronounced Mar-sash-lokk) on the south east of Malta, marsa meaning port and xlokk meaning south east.

    Simply put, it is gorgeous. The simple village houses arc around the harbour, which is full of the brightly colored wooden fishing boats known as luzzu (pronounced lut-zu).

    We stop for lunch - lampuki and sea bass - and a beer on the quayside before taking a potter round the harbour in one of the luzzus.

    Just picture postcard perfection.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    And back

    October 9, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We have more bus hassle getting back. The service is heavily touted as being every half hour, all day. Except, when you look closely, this particular half hour when there is no service. There's a big queue by the time the next one arrives so we're pleased to snaffle a couple of the last seats on the top. Time's moved on by now and we decide to just get back.

    Dinner tonight is at The Emperor of India. We have a Goan chicken curry, achari beef with ginger, saag paneer, rice with cumin and a paratha bread. All were very excellent. We've noticed, over time, that curries we've had abroad are often noticeably different to the same dish in the UK. And usually noticeably better. We may well be back here before we leave.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Heading to Gozo

    October 10, 2017 in Malta ⋅ 🌙 12 °C

    We check the bus timetable online before heading to the bus stop for the 07.57. We check the timetable again and, oh joy, this is now the winter schedule which hasn't been updated online and the bus is due slightly earlier than expected. However, that time is for the far side of the bay, before getting round to us, and it didn't pass us walking down and rush hour is starting so there's lots of traffic so we should be fine.

    We wait. Plainly we're not fine. Time drags. The next one is now due but doesn't show. We wait. We've now been waiting for an hour and the next one is due but we've had enough. We've lost enough of a chunk of our day trip for it not to be worthwhile. We drag ourselves home, keeping an eye out for the elusive next bus but that doesn't show in the time we're going back and watching out for it.

    Chatting with our neighbour, he confirms that buses just not arriving is nothing unusual at all. I'm getting a bit irritated with how difficult it is to get around this island.    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    A new plan

    October 10, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We now need to rethink today. There is still plenty to see and do round here so our new plan is to visit the Palace of the Grand Masters in Valetta, have lunch and then catch the ferry back to Slimea and take a Two Harbours cruise. Sorted.

    The first bus is a direct one to Valetta which is a lot better than messing around with the ferry. We arrive and immediately change our plan by visiting St John's Co Cathedral, which was founded by the Knight's of St John. It became a co cathedral in the 1820s when the Bishop of Malta was allowed to use it as an alternative see to the one in Mdina, as it had, by then, become as important.

    Wow! Jaw droppingly lavish. It's in a whole different league to the many other churches we've visited here    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    The Palace of the Grandmasters

    October 10, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We stop at Pappani's for lunch. We have a very tasty fish soup and a cheese and meat plate. Both are starters but that's plenty for us. Replete, we continue on our way.

    We enjoy the Palace. Like anything to do with the Knights, lavishness and opulence seem to be key words. Our visit also includes a trip to the Armoury which has an extensive and fascinating array of weapons and armour from the time of the Knights. A suit of armour with decorations in gold? Nothing was too good for these Knights!Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    Two Harbours Cruise

    October 10, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We bus back to Slimea from Valetta and stroll the quay to find a cruise. As it's late it turns out there's only one left today, leaving at 5pm. But it's a luzzu, there are only a few people on board and we can have a beer so all is well.

    It's a thoroughly pleasant trip. The sun is shining, we have beer and we're out on the water. Puttering along you can see how fantastic this harbour is - sheltered, lots of different inlets and big. No wonder it has been so strategically important for so long.

    We see the Grand Harbour first and then swing round Fort St Elmo into the Three Cities harbour. There are three cruise liners in today which probably explains why Valetta seemed very crowded earlier. The industrial part of the port can hardly be described as attractive but it's a working port so this is a necessity.

    The queue at the bus stop afterwards is massive so we cunningly walk back one stop to be ahead of them. Our ploy doesn't work as not one, not two but four buses sail past all packed to the gunnels. After at least twenty minutes one finally let's us on. It, too, is packed but we're on the move. We're heartily sick of the buses now.

    Dinner's at Bianco's this evening. We enjoy a trio of Maltese sausages, don't enjoy a beef cappuccino much and enjoy the pizza with double mozzarella and Parma ham.

    I bring up the subject of Gozo tomorrow and the buses. We're both in agreement : we can't be bothered with hassle of the buses so we're not going to go...zo    Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    The War Rooms

    October 11, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    We decide on the Lascaris War Rooms, beneath Barakka Gardens, this morning. The tunnels were dug deep into the bedrock in 1854 and played a vital role in the defence of Malta during WW2. Malta suffered sustained bombing from the Axis troops and the quick responses of Allied fighter planes, controlled from these War Rooms, was critical to the survival of Malta.Read more

  • Caroline BinnsMaltaTraveler

    St Elmo's Fort and the War Museum

    October 11, 2017 in Malta ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Because it was so good yesterday, we stop at Pappani's for lunch again. This time we share mussels in a delicate tomato sauce, followed by a porcini and ricotta ravioli in butter sauce. A "Wow" elicited from John sums it up!

    We move onto Fort St Elmo and the National War Museum, which details the military history of Malta over the ages. The Fort holds the commanding position right at the end of Valetta, overlooking the harbour entrance.

    We run out of time and decide to bus it back, rather than ferry and bus. The bus station is at the far end of Valetta but it proves to be a good move as every bus is leaving packed solid and then not stopping to collect any waiting passengers en route.

    We booked a table at the Emperor of India for a second time. This time we have chicken madras, achari lamb, vegetable Jaipuri, pilau rice and a butter naan. John loved it all and the standout dish for me in terms of flavour tonight was the madras, although I struggled with the heat.    Read more

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