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  • Jan and Andrew

Third Teardrop Island Trip

Travelling in the SW corner of Sri Lanka with a wedding near Colombo. Read more
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  • Travelling home -just

    March 18, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    We made it to a quiet airport, little traffic. Another beautiful day in paradise. SL closes its borders at midnight amid the crisis measures to deal with the virus. Our journey looks to be ok but who knows what we will find when we land at Heathrow?Read more

  • Last Full Day

    March 17, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌧 29 °C

    Another beautiful sunny day! The air clear after yesterday’s storms.
    Last proper breakfast as we have to leave 06.30 tomorrow. We will miss the fresh tropical fruits.
    We are checked in for the flight home despite all the uncertainty. We hear all incoming international flights stop at midnight tomorrow!
    At breakfast we learned of the need to register our presence in Sri Lanka. First we walked a half mile to Selyn an excellent craft and clothing shop run by a friend of Savi. We had some difficulty finding a tuktuk on the way back which is unusual but seems to be part of the wariness.
    Dropped off our purchases and then got a driver to take us to the police station. Turned out he is the chef at Ceilao Villas! It was a fun ride as they generally are. He was very helpful and eventually found the right place and we duly sat under a tree with two policemen who filled in a register. Midway he asked why we had come, to which I replied we were told to. At the end he asked how we were. Duty done we returned to the house and had a spot of lunch which the driver/chef prepared.
    A little pool time followed before Chris & Savi picked us up for afternoon tea at the Galle Face Hotel. Hugo was in his element. Very special and followed by cocktails at sunset.
    A fitting end to our trip. Wish we could stay as the virus continues to wreak havoc in the uk by all accounts.
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  • Day with family

    March 16, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    A quiet night in our lovely room. Excellent breakfast. Chris picked us up and showed us where he used to work and lunch when he lived in Colombo. We arrived and were greeted by old friends from Savi’s family. So nice to see them after two and a half years.
    A really tasty lunch was served and later we walked up to the local temple for a spot of sketching.
    Then back for a dip in the pool and intension to visit the temple together. Just as we were leaving the heavens opened with an almighty thunder storm and power cuts. All that would pacify Hugo was a performance of the Gruffalo and Gruffalo child with Nanny narrating and Chris and Myumi doing the actions. We left in darkness and there was a large tortoise in the drive! but thankfully the hotel has full power and cooling.
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  • Ceilao Villas

    March 15, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    We breakfasted a little late with many wedding guests in good form. Heading north to Colombo we passed the Galle Face hotel before turning past official buildings, lakes and many new developments calling at the gem museum and a souvenir shop. We stayed at Ceilao Villas on our last stay, a very individual former private house tucked away down a side road near the ministry of irrigation. It has changed a little and now boasts a restaurant: 47 Spice.
    We chilled in the afternoon enjoyed the pools then tuk tuked to church, only to find all services cancelled. An early meal at Asylum near Independence Square and stroll back by the Ministry of Irrigation.
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  • Wedding Day

    March 14, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    Excellent night. We met for breakfast then entertained Hugo while Savi (bridesmaid) went to get ready. I painted a picture of what I hope is the Barn House (wedding venue) for Ransi and Rakesh later. Turned out not to be, so now they have a painting of a wedding venue where they might have wanted to be married. No idea where. Power? of the internet.
    Then it was down to the pool and a snack lunch before preparations begin in earnest.
    We all caught a coach at four for a 30 minutes drive to the venue with ever tighter corners to negotiate. On arrival we were greeted with a fruit punch which was delicious and welcomed. Gin or arak cocktails followed. The wedding ceremony took place outside with Savi one of the bridesmaids and consisted of a speech by the chief bridesmaid, a reading of the Little Dinosaur and vows/rings. The official part took place on the table to the side.
    There followed more cocktails, welcome ice cream and snacks.
    We then went into the barn which was highly decorated, many flowers and joined a table of locals. Guests were from many countries and were all very friendly.
    Speeches were fun, food excellent and the drinks flowed. Dancing ensued and continued till midnight when coaches eventually arrived to transport us back to Blue Water. Hugo was exceptionally good throughout and great dancing moves, finally falling asleep outside in the warm.
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  • Bewa Garden on way to Blue Water

    March 13, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    After a leisurely rise, bird spotting from the balcony including Painted Stork, Brahminy Kite, Little swifts and breakfast, it was time to head towards the wedding. The giant dolphin was guarding the beach. On the way we stopped at Brief, home and garden of Bevis, brother of Geoffrey Bawa renowned architect. A very tranquil spot and house dating from 1929, and seemed like he had just stepped out.
    We arrived at Bluewater early afternoon. We had been upgraded to a Club Suite which is very spacious and well equipped indeed! Time for a little lunch at the Nautilus at which the appetisers proved very tasty and sufficient. In the afternoon we met with Savi Chris and Hugo in the very warm pool and were introduced to many of the guests including bride and groom.
    Our evening buffet was delicious and done in relays to enable Hugo to get to sleep.
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  • Turtles and Masks

    March 12, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    A beautiful morning although the sea had got up overnight. At 10 we met Malick and first he took us a little way up the coast to Ahungala Sea Turtle conservation and research which cares for injured turtles and fishes and rescues eggs for hatching. Next we had a boat trip on the Mandu river which contains 64 islands and is surrounded by mangroves. We saw land and water monitors, cormorants and little terns, pond heron monkeys kingfisher and at the sea end a jellyfish.
    We visited a fish farm where my feet were given a tickling and a cinnamon island where we saw the process of stripping the layer of cinnamon and tried some cinnamon oil, which has medicinal properties.
    To complete our morning we visited a traditional mask factory and museum. All very fascinating.
    Afternoon spent around the pool.
    At 5 we were picked up and taken to Bentota where we met Aleem of Earth Trip and Amith who jointly run newly formed Lanka Island Tours, and their staff before visiting Pearl Ocean fish restaurant for drinks where we were joined for a very pleasant evening by their other halves, Hasanthi and Isabella. Lovely food and company and a late evening.
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  • Galle and more relaxing

    March 12, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We have moved on from one beach to another via the Catalina Grill, with an Afro 748 on the edge of Koggala airfield (100 Rupees) and Galle. This beach hotel is busier with loads of sunbathing going on. Galle was very hot and busy around the court house. Since we have been there before we just had a little promenade along the ramparts by the old 1938 lighthouse before heading on. We passed the cricket ground which isis due to host the England Test next week and the road is dug up!
    The Shinawaga Beach hotel has a very grand entrance hall themed on the dugout fishing boats used from the beach. Although modern ones are fibreglass. We watched one arriving back and it took a good dozen to get it up the beach.
    Lunch was amazingly filling and very well presented. The pool is lovely and refreshing on a pretty hot afternoon and the sea variable in waves depending on the tide.
    Our evening meal started with sunset beers at candlelight and then real fine dining with cape Chenin blanc, sadly disappointing when it came to the main courses.
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  • Garton’s Cape

    March 10, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    What a lovely spot, fantastic room with ocean just 10m away. We abandoned the 05.30 start for whale watching and enjoyed a full breakfast on the top floor with the occasional great crested tern passing by.
    We had arranged massages in the morning which were excellent. A bit of painting - Devil’s Island lunch in our room. Then walk along the beach and swim. The pool guy told us that last week he had watched turtles hatching and showed us the pictures.
    Our dinner the evening before had been really special, local prawns and fish exceptionally well prepared and presented, even on a Poya day (full moon, holiday, no alcohol). We are looking forward to this evening when the wine list can be explored!
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  • Moving on south

    March 9, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ 🌙 28 °C

    Another sunny day in paradise. We arose in one piece, no one having fallen during the night. Excellent Sri Lanka buffet breakfast and fond farewells from the manager and staff who have been so kind and considerate.
    Malick headed off not in the expected direction but back towards Haputale. Before then though we turned right down the A4 which turned out little more than a track and some slightly hairy moments ensued!
    We stopped at Diyaluma Falls , 650ft high and the 2nd highest in Sri Lanka, and at the local Inn for tea, where the owner told us his daughter lived in Romford. The falls are really spectacular in the wet season.
    Carying on we eventually reached the turning south. At this point I was definitely wondering how long it would take us, not realising the new expressway would whisk us to our destination in no time.
    Our room in Garton’s Cape is spectacular with two balconies and fabulous sea views. We enjoyed it light lunch then stroll along the beach and dip in the pool. Magic.
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  • A day of rest and recovery

    March 8, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We enjoyed relaxing in the resort today , in between trips to the docs to sort out a bump on the head which has resulted in a very colourful black eye for Andrew. Hotel staff and our driver Malick have been great and the medics too and have concluded no long lasting damage has occurred.Read more

  • Retracing our steps

    March 7, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Malick was on hand to meet us off the train at Nuan Oya. His drive had taken just 30 minutes less. He took us up into Nuwara Eliya for a short boat trip round Lake Gregory, named after a former governor.
    We then drove the route of two days before, back to Banderawella before striking off to Haputale, following the train line back almost to where we started.
    Here though we descended the escarpment before reaching our destination at Sennya Resorts on the edge of Horton Plains nature reserve and nestling below the mountains.
    We had to be talked in by the manager on the phone and the driveway almost demanded a 4x4 to get up. Accommodation is a lodge set among trees with three glass sides. There are white curtains all round also! The pool is magnificent and there is abundant wildlife. These are good as we have called off our hike tomorrow; still recovering from Wednesday white knuckles walk!!
    Evening meal was meant to be a buffet although we have seen no other guests. So it was an ‘as if ‘ buffet. We were escorted by a very nice security guard who told us they sometimes get wild buffalo and boar.
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  • Travels by train and car

    March 7, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Another bright morning and excellent breakfast with view. We were up a bit earlier so that we could drive along to Demodara station, uniquely built on top of the tunnel of a loop in the railway. The train first appears in the cutting below having emerged from the tunnel, loops round 900 m and appears in the station platform from the same direction. Our first class accommodation aboard a new train from China was clean and comfortable.
    Leaving at just after nine, our first call was nine arch bridge, followed by Ella after which we proceeded past our hotel and on through winding tea plantations and market gardens towards Haputale. Here there’s a spectacular views down both sides.
    The train meandered on into steep forests across deep ravines before emerging by a waterfall and many more vegetable gardens and tea plantations. Most of the line is at tremendous altitude and climbs from 900m to almost 2000m.
    We got off at Nuan Oya but the train carries on th Kandy then Colombo Fort.
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  • Nine Arch Bridge

    March 6, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    A leisurely start with excellent breakfast. Picked up at 11.00 by our driver in a tuktuk we descended into town, dropped off the driver and set off past Ella station and then through tea plantations on a track whose quality varied considerably towards our destination, nine arches bridge. This was built at the beginning of the previous century, opening in 1921. Constructed of stone and concrete where most others are steel or wood.
    Our route entailed at one point only one of us able to travel up the steep incline so the driver made two trips up that hill. On arrival the crowds were gathering and we just had time to walk over the bridge and back before the train arrived on time. Having crossed the bridge the train disappeared through tunnel 40. Quite a spectacle.
    Coming back we stopped off in town for a snack lunch in Ice Cube then chilled away the afternoon in Mountain Heaven.
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  • Mountain Heavens

    March 5, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    We awoke more or less in one piece and able to walk after the exertion of the day before.
    At 09.30 we set off for the botanical gardens 5km away. We joined a group from South Carolina, escaping the cold they said, on an electric buggy tour. The driver was most knowledgable and gave a thorough detailed tour of gardens that date back to Victorian times with many trees planted by visiting world leaders. The gardens were used as a means of trying out plants from all over the world for commercial exploitation.
    From there we took the road to Nuwara Eliya stopping along the way at Storefield 1930 tea factory for a tour and tasting. One of the machines was made in Belfast in 1936 and is still running.
    Further along we stopped for buffet lunch overlooking a waterfall. Much easier than walking! J’s Lion beer was frozen so we shared one!
    The road wound through tea plantations and then market gardens with some fabulous produce on sale at the roadside.
    Arriving at Mountain Heavens was amazing perched with fantastic views over little Adams Peak with infinity pool that had to be tried. By the time we went to the bar before dinner mist had come in and cut out all views. It will be interesting to see what there is to see in the morning. We can hear the railway though.
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  • Trekking Knuckles Ranges

    March 4, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    After a good night’s sleep and breakfast we met Malick at 08.30 for a drive out to the Knuckles ranges. Past Rangala and Elagola we stopped and changed into a 4 wheel drive with our guide VJ. The road wound up and through Duckwari tea plantations of Finlay’s.
    Our guide suggested two routes one to a waterfall the other up a peak. Both started with what turned out to be a stiff climb in hot sunshine with which we struggled; 700 m in 1500 m. There was some spectacular scenery, flowers and a few birds but it took quite a while and scrambling to reach the waterfall. It was a lovely spot and welcome cool water. It was even more of a challenge climbing up from there and we were definitely flagging when we descended the challenging climb and both of us had some slips and needed the help of our guide to get us down in one piece.
    We just managed to clamber up into the jeep and were well pleased to meet up with Malick for a ride home. Even this proved a challenge as we passed the Kandy cricket ground where Sri Lanka were playing West Indies and the traffic was even more chaotic than usual.
    Shower was welcomed and a short walk to the Empire Cafe for excellent meal followed up by a beer in the bar of the old Queens Hotel.
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  • Kandy

    March 3, 2020 in Sri Lanka ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    We landed a little early just after nine following a smooth flight. Progress through immigration and baggage collection was good and we met Malick our driver at about ten. The warm sunny weather was a treat and we set off on our drive. The roads seemed much better than on our last visit, and less honking of horns. Buses still as menacing. Our limousine is a Honda hybrid, 5 years old according to Malick.
    We stopped once for tea and for a train to pass and arrived here at The Rahd in Kandy around two.
    A little catchup snooze was in order. And the coconut snacks delicious.
    We took a stroll by the lake and local explore guided by advice from the chap on reception on where to eat: local dosai and beers at the Royal Bar where we arrived during a power cut.
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  • Trip start
    March 2, 2020