La Isla to Villaviciosa

Day 4: La Isla to Villaviciosa — 22 km

A good start in La Isla with coffee at the hotel, followed by a second breakfast in Colunga. After that, it was a long stretch of asphalt winding through rolling hills and countryside, with a few horses grazing nearby and eagles circling overhead.

There was a beautiful picnic spot at the top with sweeping hill views and a glimpse of the sea in the distance. Lunch was leftovers from dinner in La Isla: croquettes, Asturian cheeses, bread with a tin of tuna in olive oil, plus an apple and chocolate for dessert.

It felt good to finally arrive in Villaviciosa — shower, find the pilgrims’ nest (the bar where pilgrims flock to), and tackle a load of laundry. Dinner was at a sidrería, watching the cider poured dramatically from high above the glass to aerate it before drinking — a very Asturian way to end the day.

Villaviciosa is considered the heart of Asturias’ cider country, part of the famous “Comarca de la Sidra,” where apple orchards and traditional cider houses shape the culture and landscape. The ritual of pouring cider from high above the glass, called escanciado, dates back more than a century and is meant to wake up the natural carbonation and aromas before you drink the small pour, or culín, in one sip. Asturias’ cider culture was even recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2024.Read more