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Camino del Norte Part 2
  • Laurie Ferris
  • Laurie Ferris

Camino del Norte Part 2

I’m excited to return to the Camino Del Norte to start in Llanes, where I ended in 2023. Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 17, 2026
    Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler
    Queen of the harbor
    El Jefe of the hostelLeaving LlanesThe first of many stone markersTown cemeteryArtsy homePoo, a charming town with a shitty nameHappy cowsHappy sheepHappy me!The camino is on the beach!Jim and Anouk were fun to walk withWe enjoyed lunch hereMy home for the night, La Fonte

    Llanes to Naves

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Day 1 on the Camino del Norte was exactly what I love about this route: harbor towns, gravel paths through grazing lands, dramatic coastline, and beautiful beaches. The dogs, cats, sheep, horses, cows, goats, and wildflowers along the way completely captured my fancy.

    Near the end of the walk, we took a detour to Playa Gulpiyuri, the tiny inland beach hidden beneath the cliffs. It was low tide, but you could still see the wide sandy crescent tucked below the rock walls.

    I also met wonderful pilgrims from Seattle, Holland, Vancouver, and Ukraine. A few of us shared a menú del día at a cider house in Naves, which felt like the perfect Camino meal.

    It was a later start since the day was short — only about 10 miles. After two nights sleeping in top bunks, I decided I needed a little space and booked a hotel room instead. Pensión La Fonte was clean, comfortable, and a welcome place to rest. I booked it through Booking.com for about $60.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Naves to Ribadesella

    May 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Day 2: Naves to Ribadesella

    I felt rested and ready after the no-frills breakfast at Hotel La Fonte: tortilla, a croissant, bananas, and coffee. Perfect fuel for the trail. The weather was ideal for hiking, with cool air and the sun breaking through the clouds every so often.

    The walk to Nueva was peaceful — about 3 miles of quiet countryside and fresh green scenery. It ended up being another short walking day because I decided to take the train for part of the route. I wanted to send some extra weight and rations ahead to lighten my pack for the next week. Since I had already seen this section from the train just two days earlier, it felt like the practical choice.

    I caught the 11:30 a.m. train to Ribadesella. Once there, I found a Correos post office and mailed a package ahead to Avilés, where I’ll pick it up in about a week. Apparently, sending bags or supplies ahead is a pretty common Camino strategy.

    Of course, I still had to explore Ribadesella, so I ended up walking another 4 miles around town. The old quarter was charming, full of narrow streets, lively restaurants, and lots of character. I crossed the river to check whether the fancy beachside hostel had any beds available, but it was completely booked because of a surf school group staying there. I briefly considered some hotels on that side, but they were too expensive, and the area felt strangely quiet.

    So I headed back to the old town and found a room for 40 euros — a great deal and a perfect ending to an easy Camino day.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Ribadesella to La Isla

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Day 3: I slept wonderfully at the Hotel Covadonga and woke up excited for another day on the trail. We began by walking along the Ribadesella waterfront, passing seafood restaurants before crossing the long bridge over the Río Sella and continuing down the seaside promenade. That stretch reminded me so much of leaving San Sebastián three years ago on my first Camino del Norte.

    Soon the route climbed into eucalyptus forests and up toward the cliffs where dinosaur footprints are supposedly preserved. We never actually spotted them, but reaching the summit rewarded us with sweeping views of the Cantabrian Sea.

    Descending the other side, we came upon a tiny hamlet with a wonderfully equipped donativo stop for pilgrims. There was coffee, tea, snacks, and homemade bread with butter and jams, all lovingly prepared by Emma, a German hospitalera. The place had once been an albergue before it closed a few years ago. We lingered there for a while, chatting with a group of Austrians and an American who had moved to Austria.

    After making our donation and eating our fill, we continued toward the coast. Around every bend was another breathtaking view.

    Closer to sea level, we chose an alternativo route so we could walk along the beach. Shoes off and dangling from my pack, pant legs zipped away, it was an easy shift into beach-walking mode. I wrote “Buen Camino” in the wet sand with a large stick. Climbing back up from the sand to reconnect with the trail took some scrambling, but it was absolutely worth the effort.

    We saw more horses today, along with a few cows grazing in the fields. The weather was warm and sunny, and by afternoon I could hardly wait to reach La Isla and go for a swim.

    As soon as we arrived, we headed straight into the water. I never bring a bathing suit on the Camino, so I swam in the base layer I had been hiking in: a tank top and black underwear. Tankini mode activated. The beach was divided by dramatic rocky formations that reminded me of the lava rock beaches of Hawaii.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler
    It was a Rosie day. We can do it! 💪

    La Isla to Villaviciosa

    May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Day 4: La Isla to Villaviciosa — 22 km

    A good start in La Isla with coffee at the hotel, followed by a second breakfast in Colunga. After that, it was a long stretch of asphalt winding through rolling hills and countryside, with a few horses grazing nearby and eagles circling overhead.

    There was a beautiful picnic spot at the top with sweeping hill views and a glimpse of the sea in the distance. Lunch was leftovers from dinner in La Isla: croquettes, Asturian cheeses, bread with a tin of tuna in olive oil, plus an apple and chocolate for dessert.

    It felt good to finally arrive in Villaviciosa — shower, find the pilgrims’ nest (the bar where pilgrims flock to), and tackle a load of laundry. Dinner was at a sidrería, watching the cider poured dramatically from high above the glass to aerate it before drinking — a very Asturian way to end the day.

    Villaviciosa is considered the heart of Asturias’ cider country, part of the famous “Comarca de la Sidra,” where apple orchards and traditional cider houses shape the culture and landscape. The ritual of pouring cider from high above the glass, called escanciado, dates back more than a century and is meant to wake up the natural carbonation and aromas before you drink the small pour, or culín, in one sip. Asturias’ cider culture was even recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2024.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler
    A charming Harry Potter homeHórreos are where grain and corn were stored. They're common in AsturiasThe fork in the route to turn south toward Oviedo

    Villaviciosa to Gijón

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    Day 5: Villaviciosa to Gijón

    It was going to be a long, hot day, so it was an early start from Hotel Casa España.

    One of the most memorable moments on the walk was coming across the marker where two scallop shells pointed in different directions — a literal fork in the road. Straight ahead continued along the Camino del Norte toward Gijón, while the left turn led inland toward Oviedo and the start of the Camino Primitivo. A quiet reminder that pilgrims have been choosing between coast and mountains, sea breeze and solitude, for centuries.

    Partway up one of the long ascents, we met Silvie from France, then Roberto from Italy, who was walking with two other Italians.

    I finally broke out the “chrome dome” — my Camino umbrella — to fend off the relentless sun. It may not look glamorous, but out on the exposed asphalt stretches, it felt like the smartest thing I packed.

    We were so happy to see other pilgrims at the only cafe stop, and that there were people we met before. Brothers from Arizona and Stephanie from New York.

    It had turned into an impromptu pilgrim picnic. We spread out chips, chocolate, biscuits, and sandwiches across the table and shared whatever we had left in our packs.
    Some enjoyed Rattlers — beer mixed with lemonade — and I had a Gin-tonic.
    This revived our spirits before tackling another long uphill stretch.

    Eventually we made it to the sprawling Camping Deva property, drenched in sweat and ready for a break. We snacked on olives and nuts, sipping cold beers while staring longingly at the beautiful pool — closed until June 1.

    We still had four miles left into Gijón, but the heat and accumulated miles had finally caught up with us. Completely spent, we waved the white flag and took the bus the rest of the way into town. Along the ride, we helped an elderly man on and off the bus who showed signs of dementia.

    At last, we found Boogaloo Hostel, which I had booked earlier. The location was perfect — directly across from the beach.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler
    The flyover video for earlier that day1The Relive video for earlier that day

    Exploring Gijón on Thursday evening

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    After the long, hot day of walking—and finally giving in to a bus ride for the last few miles from Deva into Gijón—it was a pleasure to see the beach again. The sight of the sand and sea felt like a reward after hours of climbing hills, sweating under the sun, and pushing tired legs forward. As soon as we reached the waterfront, the fatigue of the day seemed to fade, replaced by that familiar sense of relief and happiness that only the coast can bring.
    We also couldn’t believe how amazing the beach in Gijón was. There were surfers riding the waves, families enjoying the warm afternoon, beach volleyball games in full swing, and a wide promenade bustling with people. It reminded us of San Sebastián, but on a much grander scale.

    After dinner at Taberno del Piano, a waterfront restaurant recommended by my Camino friends, it was fun to explore the city. Gijón truly sparkles at night. The waterfront was lively, the historic streets were buzzing, and there always seemed to be something happening around the next corner.

    Near our hostel, we discovered a jazz club and stopped to listen to the live music. One memorable moment came when a man from the audience stepped up to the microphone and sang Tony Bennett’s “I Left My Heart in San Francisco.” It was unexpectedly moving and wonderfully nostalgic—a reminder that no matter how far you travel, a familiar song can instantly transport you home.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Rest day in Gijón

    May 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 75 °F

    My nephew Andrew is currently working in Oslo, so he flew down to meet me in Gijón for the weekend. After checking out of the hostel, I walked to the train station and greeted him with a big hug. We celebrated his arrival with a welcome-to-Spain breakfast at a café in the station before setting off to explore the city.

    We spent the day wandering through Gijón at a relaxed pace, sticking mostly to the shady side of the streets as the temperatures climbed. I wanted to show Andrew two very different sides of the Camino experience: first, a stay at the luxurious Parador, which I had booked months earlier for my planned rest day; and second, an albergue experience in a university dormitory the following night.

    After checking into the Parador and dropping our backpacks, we were free to enjoy a different side of Gijón. Adjacent to the hotel is a beautiful park and bird sanctuary, a peaceful oasis in the middle of the city. We spotted swans, ducks, egrets, magpies, turtles, a peacock, and even an emu wandering the grounds.

    For lunch, we settled into a traditional sidrería and enjoyed Asturian specialties with plenty of cider. Later, we strolled along the beach and its broad promenade, soaking in the good life that Gijón’s residents seem to enjoy so effortlessly. Surfers rode the waves, families filled the sand, and locals lingered at cafés overlooking the sea. We ended the day with sunset drinks and light bites on the eastern end of the beach, watching the sky change colors over picturesque seaside town.

    Not bad for a rest day—by the time we returned to the Parador, we had walked nearly ten miles.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Gijón to Candas

    May 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 77 °F

    We slept well at the Parador and lingered over their outstanding breakfast buffet before making our way across town to check into an albergue in Cimavilla. For €20 each, including breakfast, we weren’t sure what to expect, but it turned out to be a pleasant surprise. We had our own dorm-style room with a private bathroom. Andrew especially appreciated the full-size lower bunk—much better suited for someone who’s 6’4”. I opted for the couch rather than climbing into the top bunk.

    To give Andrew a taste of the Camino, we set out on a walk from Gijón to Candas, a small fishing village along the coast. With only daypacks and a train ride back to Gijón planned, our loads felt delightfully light compared to the previous week.

    The stage between Gijón and Avilés is known for being industrial, so it was nice to tackle part of it with a companion before turning north toward the sea. Once we reached the coast, we rewarded ourselves with a leisurely seafood lunch featuring pulpo and scallops while watching the fishing boats come and go.

    It was a perfect introduction to Camino life for Andrew—a mix of walking, conversation, changing landscapes, and a meal that tasted even better after earning it on foot.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Avilés to Salinas

    May 24 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 64 °F

    We didn’t sleep particularly well, thanks to the Saturday night revelers who kept the party going until nearly 4 a.m.—a fairly typical scene in Spain on a weekend. Fortunately, we had a good plan for the day. Rather than walk the most industrial section of the route, we decided to take the train directly to Avilés. Even the hospitalera, whom we chatted with over breakfast at the albergue, recommended skipping that stretch.

    With full packs and full stomachs, we said goodbye to Gijón and boarded the train to Avilés. From there, we picked up the Camino once again, following the familiar yellow arrows and scallop shell markers toward Salinas, a coastal alternative that leads to one of the region’s most beautiful beach towns.

    Salinas was a delight. Its long seaside promenade, wide sandy beach, and steady stream of surfers gave it a relaxed, laid-back atmosphere. We spent time walking along the shore, swimming in the refreshing water, and enjoying a leisurely lunch by the sea.

    Eventually, it was time to say goodbye. We stretched out on the sand for a while before Andrew caught a bus back toward his airport hotel near Oviedo. It had been a wonderful weekend together and a fun way to share a small piece of the Camino experience before I continued on alone.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Avilés to Muros de Nalon

    May 25 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 79 °F

    Monday morning in Avilés was bright, sunny, and already warm. Before leaving town, I stopped at Correos to pick up a package I had sent ahead. With the temperature climbing and a later-than-planned start, I decided to shorten the day’s walk slightly by taking a train for part of the route.

    The miles that followed were classic Asturias—rolling green hills, quiet country roads, and a route that zigzagged across rivers and bridges. At one point, we caught sight of a castle perched above a bend in the river, standing watch over the valley below. The small neighborhoods along the way were especially charming, with brightly painted walls, colorful flower pots, and whimsical statues tucked into gardens and courtyards.

    I crossed paths with a few pilgrims who were staying at a different albergue that evening, but as I arrived, I felt glad I had chosen Casa Carmina. The sisters who run it were warm and welcoming, proudly telling me about their trip to California and “Jellostone” park years ago. Inspired by their visit, they planted sequoias in the yard and even built a teepee on a raised platform, giving the property a quirky and memorable touch. It was the kind of place that reflects the personality and passions of its owners.

    A dirty beer (the kind you need immediately after finishing the walk for the day) and a shower worked their usual Camino magic. Afterward, a short stroll into town for Albariño and dinner was all it took to set things right and prepare for another day on the road.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Muros to Soto de Luiña

    May 26 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 72 °F

    After a restful night at Casa Carmina, I got an earlier start than usual. The heat wave showed no signs of letting up, and I had been hiking in shorts for the past week—something I don’t always get to do on the Camino.

    Before leaving town, we stopped at a market to stock up on pilgrim essentials: yogurt, an apple, peaches, gazpacho, olives and tuna, for a picnic later in the day. I especially enjoyed browsing the displays of local Asturian products, a reminder of how proud the region is of its food traditions.

    The route passed through an elegant part of town with stately homes, gardens, and even a palace. Beyond that, the scenery shifted back to the countryside, with fragrant eucalyptus groves and more of the whimsical Camino mosaics and artwork that seem to appear on walls and buildings throughout Asturias.

    A slight detour to the beach added a few extra kilometers to the day, but it was an easy decision. The beach was rocky at first, yet beyond the stones the seabed turned sandy and made for excellent swimming. The cool water was a welcome reward after another hot day on the trail.

    After drying off, we stopped at a nearby bar for a sidra. I’m getting better at pouring, though I still don’t imitate the professionals who hold the bottle dramatically overhead. It’s impressive to watch, but I can’t help thinking how much sidra ends up splashing onto the ground instead of into the glass.

    The day ended at a small albergue filled with both familiar faces and new ones. That evening, the twelve of us gathered around a communal table for a dinner prepared by the hosts. Good food, conversation, and a few glasses of vino and playing a card game made for a memorable night.

    As for sleeping, I got lucky. There were no snorers in my room, but a Dutch pilgrim elsewhere in the albergue was apparently producing enough noise to keep several German pilgrims awake for much of the night. Such is life in the albergues—every bed comes with a story, and sometimes the loudest stories happen after the lights go out!    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Soto de Luiña to Cadaveo

    May 27 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 82 °F

    Day 11: Soto de Luiña to Cadavedo
    22 km / 13.8 miles

    The communal breakfast at the albergue was served promptly at 6:30 a.m. so everyone could get an early start and beat the heat. Emilia, our host, warned us that temperatures would reach 30°C (86°F) later in the day, and nobody needed much convincing. As a result, I set off at 7:15 a.m.—my earliest start of this Camino by far. I was so proud of this feat of fortitude that I pointed to the town clock on my way out as proof that I had actually managed to leave before most of Spain was awake.

    Today’s stage was a classic stretch of the Camino del Norte—constantly rising and falling through some of Asturias’ most spectacular coastal scenery. I crossed more creeks than I can remember doing on any single day of a Camino. The route wound through lush stream valleys, shaded tree tunnels, pine forests, and hillsides bursting with foxgloves and wildflowers.

    The pattern repeated throughout the day: descend into a green ravine, cross a bubbling creek, then climb steadily back up toward the cliffs. Each ascent brought another reward—sweeping views of the rugged coastline, dramatic sea cliffs, and the endless blue of the Cantabrian Sea.

    Of course, I couldn’t resist another beach detour. It added a little extra distance, but it was well worth it. The beach was stunning, with striking patterns etched into the cliff faces and large sea caves carved by centuries of waves. It felt like one of those hidden corners of the coast that makes you stop and simply take it all in.

    At 22 kilometers, this was my longest day so far on this Camino. Fortunately, much of the route followed natural trails rather than pavement, making the distance easier on my feet. By the time I reached Cadavedo, I was pleasantly tired rather than worn out—a good feeling after a day spent immersed in some of the finest coastal landscapes the Camino del Norte has to offer.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Cadavedo to Luarca

    May 28 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    Day 12:
    The day began with a café con leche in town before I made an intentional backtrack to Cadavedo Beach. It added about two extra miles to the day’s total, but I had no regrets. The beach is a pristine sandy crescent tucked beneath dramatic cliffs, and an early-morning wade in the cool water was the perfect way to start the day. As an unexpected bonus, I stumbled upon a professional photography session featuring a nude model posing along the shore—certainly not something you see every day on the Camino.

    With a later start than usual, I headed toward Luarca. Along the way, I was captivated by the hydrangeas, the most beautiful I’ve ever seen. They seemed to be everywhere—blue, purple, pink, and white—spilling over garden walls and brightening the villages along the route.

    For part of the day, I walked with Nadja, a purple-haired pilgrim from Arizona whose lively conversation made the kilometers pass quickly. She had started all the way back in Soto de Luiña that morning, making for a much longer day than mine. We eventually stopped for lunch together before continuing on our separate paces.

    The approach into Luarca was initially gray and overcast, but just as the town came into view, the clouds broke apart and the sun emerged. The light transformed the harbor, making the white buildings, fishing boats, and surrounding hillsides sparkle. It was a beautiful first impression of one of Asturias’ most picturesque fishing villages.

    That evening, I enjoyed dinner at a Norwegian-owned restaurant overlooking the harbor. Sidra, Padrón peppers, Asturian cheeses, and fresh seafood made for a fitting feast after another wonderful day on the Camino. I also ran into several German pilgrims and spent some time chatting with one woman who was making her journey by bicycle—a reminder once again of the many different ways people experience the Camino.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Luarca to Navia

    May 29 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    I left Luarca under a blanket of morning fog, giving the town and coastline a quiet, almost magical feel. The plaza was being set up for a Medieval Market, which I am sure would be fantastic, if only I had time to spare. As the route climbed away from the harbor, I passed more of the whimsical gardens and Camino-themed artwork that have become one of my favorite features of the Camino del Norte.

    One yard featured a pilgrim and scallop shell sculpture made entirely from Estrella beer caps—a creative tribute to both pilgrims and local beer. Up the street, little train planters seemed to be the gardening trend of choice, each one overflowing with flowers and greenery. The colorful displays continued throughout the morning with hydrangeas, angel’s trumpets, roses, and morning glories brightening the route during the ascent.

    The walk itself was pleasant, with rolling countryside and coastal views appearing whenever the fog lifted. By the time I reached Navia, I was ready for a little indulgence.

    The hotel had a spa, making it the perfect place for a Camino recovery session. A 30-minute massage loosened up the muscles, and time spent in the hydrotherapy pools and sauna felt like a luxury after nearly two weeks on the trail.

    Later, I wandered through town and found dinner, but Navia never quite clicked with me the way some of the other Asturian towns had. It wasn’t a bad place—just lacking the charm and energy I’d found elsewhere along the coast. After dinner, I headed back to the hotel, happy to enjoy a quiet night and get some rest before another early start in the morning.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Navia to Tapia de Casariego

    May 30 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 64 °F

    Day 14: 27 km / 16.8 miles

    After a week of hiking in shorts, the morning finally felt cool enough to zip the legs back onto my convertible pants. The relief didn’t last long—the day warmed up quickly—but it was a reminder that the weather along the coast can change from one day to the next.

    At 27 kilometers, this was my longest day yet on the Camino. Surprisingly, I enjoyed every step of it.

    The route was filled with more of the things I’ve come to love about Asturias: outrageous hydrangeas in every color imaginable and charming Camino-themed yard decorations. One of my favorites was a pair of seagulls cleverly crafted from white high-heeled pumps. Everywhere I walked, there seemed to be another creative display waiting around the corner.

    What strikes me most is the effort that local residents put into welcoming pilgrims. The decorated gardens, handmade signs, painted shells, and whimsical sculptures add so much personality to the route. They make it clear that pilgrims are not just passing through—we are noticed and appreciated. Throughout Asturias, I’ve found people to be remarkably friendly. A cheerful “Hola” or “Buenas” is common, and while “Buen Camino” is usually reserved for fellow pilgrims, the warmth of the local people has been just as memorable as the scenery.

    One of the highlights of the day was taking a coastal alternative that added a few extra kilometers. On paper it made an already long day even longer, but there was no question it was worth it. With dramatic ocean views and rugged shoreline, it felt like the perfect farewell to Asturias. As I walked, I found myself reflecting on how much I had enjoyed this region and how quickly the days had passed.

    When I arrived in Tapia de Casariego, I discovered the albergue was closed, so I booked a small hotel near the beach instead. The owner handed me beach towels, and before long I was back in the water.

    The swim was exactly what my body needed. I floated on my back, drifted with the waves, and spent a while simply sitting in the surf, letting the cool seawater soothe tired legs and feet after the longest stage of the trip. Afterwards, I stretched out in the sun, spending about ten minutes on each side while my improvised Camino “tankini” dried.

    It was a perfect ending to a hot day and a fitting goodbye to Asturias.

    Dinner was equally memorable. A friend a few days ahead on the Camino had recommended a local restaurant, and the paella paired with a glass of Albariño tasted every bit as good as promised. After 27 kilometers, the meal felt thoroughly earned.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Tapia to Ribadeo

    May 31 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    Day 15: 9 miles / 14.6 km
    You’d think that after two weeks of walking the Camino—and with a relatively short day ahead—I would have navigation completely figured out. Not quite.

    The coastal variant leaving Tapia presented a few challenges. Some of the paths had been planted with corn, ranging from tiny shoots to stalks nearly a foot high. In places, the footpath seemed to disappear altogether, plowed under and reclaimed by the fields. A bit of bushwhacking through tall grasses was required before I finally emerged from the weeds and found the familiar yellow arrows and scallop shells once again.

    Once back on track, the route meandered pleasantly through farmland and small villages. One of the day’s highlights was a generously stocked donativo stand. Alongside the usual snacks were oranges, lemons, apples, and the largest kumquats I’ve ever seen. They were sweet, juicy, and exactly what I needed on a warm day of walking.

    The route continued past more beautiful beaches and several impressive campgrounds. As someone who enjoys camping, I couldn’t help but notice how spacious and well-equipped they were, tucked into some spectacular coastal settings.

    The most memorable moment of the day came at the bridge crossing from Asturias into Galicia. Stepping across felt significant—not just because I was entering a new region, but because it marked the end of this year’s Camino journey.

    Ribadeo is my Santiago.

    There was no Compostela certificate waiting for me, and no grand finish in front of the cathedral. Instead, there were two wonderful weeks of memories, photographs, friendships, and experiences that felt every bit as meaningful.

    Over time, I’ve realized that I no longer feel the need to push myself to reach Santiago every time I walk a Camino. This stretch through Asturias gave me something I value even more: freedom. Freedom to stop for a swim whenever a beautiful beach appeared. Freedom to take coastal alternatives simply because they looked interesting. Freedom to linger over conversations, make new friends, and enjoy unhurried meals. Freedom to say goodbye to pilgrims continuing onward while being perfectly content with where my own journey would end.

    For this year, Ribadeo was enough. More than enough.

    And as I crossed into Galicia, I felt grateful for every step that had brought me there.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Bonus Day in A Coruña

    June 4 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    Today was supposed to be my last day in Spain, but a canceled flight by TAP Air Portugal turned into an unexpected gift. Instead of spending last night in Madrid and flying to Lisbon this morning, I booked a third night in my favorite city in Spain and caught a short flight to Madrid today. Now I get an overnight in Lisbon and head home a day later.

    There are worse problems to have than one more day in A Coruña.

    A Coruña is a place I feel deeply connected to. It has beautiful beaches where surfers chase Atlantic swells, a lively seafront promenade that stretches for nearly 13 kilometers—one of the longest urban waterfront walks in Europe—and pedestrian streets that wind through the charming Old Town.

    The city’s heart is the grand Plaza de María Pita, named for María Pita, the local heroine who rallied the city’s defenders against an English attack in 1589 after her husband was killed in battle. Her courage is immortalized in the towering statue that watches over the square.

    Then there is the Tower of Hercules, the world’s oldest functioning Roman lighthouse. Built nearly 2,000 years ago and remodeled during the Renaissance, it still guides ships today. According to legend, it stands on the spot where Hercules defeated the giant Geryon, giving the tower both historical and mythical significance.

    Mostly, though, it’s the feeling of the place that keeps drawing me back—the ocean, the energy, the cafés, and the easy rhythm of life.

    As I wrap up this Camino and my time in Spain, I’m feeling incredibly grateful for all the blessings of this journey: the freedom to walk my own way, the friendships that appeared when I needed them most, the generosity of strangers, the beauty of northern Spain, and perhaps one of the greatest miracles of all—no heel pain.

    Fifteen days ago, I set out not knowing exactly what I would find. I return home with tired legs, a full heart, and a reminder that some of the best moments in life are the ones you never planned.

    Buen Camino, and until next time, Spain. ❤️🇪🇸
    #caminodelnorte #caminodesantiago    Read more

    Trip end
    May 31, 2026