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Camino del Norte Part 2
  • Laurie Ferris
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  • Laurie Ferris

Camino del Norte Part 2

I’m excited to return to the Camino Del Norte to start in Llanes, where I ended in 2023. Read more
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    🇪🇸 A Coruña, Spain
    Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler
    A charming Harry Potter homeHórreos are where grain and corn were stored. They're common in AsturiasThe fork in the route to turn south toward Oviedo

    Villaviciosa to Gijón

    May 21 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 81 °F

    Day 5: Villaviciosa to Gijón

    It was going to be a long, hot day, so it was an early start from Hotel Casa España.

    One of the most memorable moments on the walk was coming across the marker where two scallop shells pointed in different directions — a literal fork in the road. Straight ahead continued along the Camino del Norte toward Gijón, while the left turn led inland toward Oviedo and the start of the Camino Primitivo. A quiet reminder that pilgrims have been choosing between coast and mountains, sea breeze and solitude, for centuries.

    Partway up one of the long ascents, we met Silvie from France, then Roberto from Italy, who was walking with two other Italians.

    I finally broke out the “chrome dome” — my Camino umbrella — to fend off the relentless sun. It may not look glamorous, but out on the exposed asphalt stretches, it felt like the smartest thing I packed.

    We were so happy to see other pilgrims at the only cafe stop, and that there were people we met before. Brothers from Arizona and Stephanie from New York.

    It had turned into an impromptu pilgrim picnic. We spread out chips, chocolate, biscuits, and sandwiches across the table and shared whatever we had left in our packs.
    Some enjoyed Rattlers — beer mixed with lemonade — and I had a Gin-tonic.
    This revived our spirits before tackling another long uphill stretch.

    Eventually we made it to the sprawling Camping Deva property, drenched in sweat and ready for a break. We snacked on olives and nuts, sipping cold beers while staring longingly at the beautiful pool — closed until June 1.

    We still had four miles left into Gijón, but the heat and accumulated miles had finally caught up with us. Completely spent, we waved the white flag and took the bus the rest of the way into town. Along the ride, we helped an elderly man on and off the bus who showed signs of dementia.

    At last, we found Boogaloo Hostel, which I had booked earlier. The location was perfect — directly across from the beach.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler
    It was a Rosie day. We can do it! 💪

    La Isla to Villaviciosa

    May 20 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Day 4: La Isla to Villaviciosa — 22 km

    A good start in La Isla with coffee at the hotel, followed by a second breakfast in Colunga. After that, it was a long stretch of asphalt winding through rolling hills and countryside, with a few horses grazing nearby and eagles circling overhead.

    There was a beautiful picnic spot at the top with sweeping hill views and a glimpse of the sea in the distance. Lunch was leftovers from dinner in La Isla: croquettes, Asturian cheeses, bread with a tin of tuna in olive oil, plus an apple and chocolate for dessert.

    It felt good to finally arrive in Villaviciosa — shower, find the pilgrims’ nest (the bar where pilgrims flock to), and tackle a load of laundry. Dinner was at a sidrería, watching the cider poured dramatically from high above the glass to aerate it before drinking — a very Asturian way to end the day.

    Villaviciosa is considered the heart of Asturias’ cider country, part of the famous “Comarca de la Sidra,” where apple orchards and traditional cider houses shape the culture and landscape. The ritual of pouring cider from high above the glass, called escanciado, dates back more than a century and is meant to wake up the natural carbonation and aromas before you drink the small pour, or culín, in one sip. Asturias’ cider culture was even recognized by UNESCO as Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2024.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Ribadesella to La Isla

    May 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    Day 3: I slept wonderfully at the Hotel Covadonga and woke up excited for another day on the trail. We began by walking along the Ribadesella waterfront, passing seafood restaurants before crossing the long bridge over the Río Sella and continuing down the seaside promenade. That stretch reminded me so much of leaving San Sebastián three years ago on my first Camino del Norte.

    Soon the route climbed into eucalyptus forests and up toward the cliffs where dinosaur footprints are supposedly preserved. We never actually spotted them, but reaching the summit rewarded us with sweeping views of the Cantabrian Sea.

    Descending the other side, we came upon a tiny hamlet with a wonderfully equipped donativo stop for pilgrims. There was coffee, tea, snacks, and homemade bread with butter and jams, all lovingly prepared by Emma, a German hospitalera. The place had once been an albergue before it closed a few years ago. We lingered there for a while, chatting with a group of Austrians and an American who had moved to Austria.

    After making our donation and eating our fill, we continued toward the coast. Around every bend was another breathtaking view.

    Closer to sea level, we chose an alternativo route so we could walk along the beach. Shoes off and dangling from my pack, pant legs zipped away, it was an easy shift into beach-walking mode. I wrote “Buen Camino” in the wet sand with a large stick. Climbing back up from the sand to reconnect with the trail took some scrambling, but it was absolutely worth the effort.

    We saw more horses today, along with a few cows grazing in the fields. The weather was warm and sunny, and by afternoon I could hardly wait to reach La Isla and go for a swim.

    As soon as we arrived, we headed straight into the water. I never bring a bathing suit on the Camino, so I swam in the base layer I had been hiking in: a tank top and black underwear. Tankini mode activated. The beach was divided by dramatic rocky formations that reminded me of the lava rock beaches of Hawaii.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler

    Naves to Ribadesella

    May 18 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    Day 2: Naves to Ribadesella

    I felt rested and ready after the no-frills breakfast at Hotel La Fonte: tortilla, a croissant, bananas, and coffee. Perfect fuel for the trail. The weather was ideal for hiking, with cool air and the sun breaking through the clouds every so often.

    The walk to Nueva was peaceful — about 3 miles of quiet countryside and fresh green scenery. It ended up being another short walking day because I decided to take the train for part of the route. I wanted to send some extra weight and rations ahead to lighten my pack for the next week. Since I had already seen this section from the train just two days earlier, it felt like the practical choice.

    I caught the 11:30 a.m. train to Ribadesella. Once there, I found a Correos post office and mailed a package ahead to Avilés, where I’ll pick it up in about a week. Apparently, sending bags or supplies ahead is a pretty common Camino strategy.

    Of course, I still had to explore Ribadesella, so I ended up walking another 4 miles around town. The old quarter was charming, full of narrow streets, lively restaurants, and lots of character. I crossed the river to check whether the fancy beachside hostel had any beds available, but it was completely booked because of a surf school group staying there. I briefly considered some hotels on that side, but they were too expensive, and the area felt strangely quiet.

    So I headed back to the old town and found a room for 40 euros — a great deal and a perfect ending to an easy Camino day.    Read more

  • Laurie FerrisCamino del Norte Part 2Traveler
    Queen of the harbor
    El Jefe of the hostelLeaving LlanesThe first of many stone markersTown cemeteryArtsy homePoo, a charming town with a shitty nameHappy cowsHappy sheepHappy me!The camino is on the beach!Jim and Anouk were fun to walk withWe enjoyed lunch hereMy home for the night, La Fonte

    Llanes to Naves

    May 17 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 57 °F

    Day 1 on the Camino del Norte was exactly what I love about this route: harbor towns, gravel paths through grazing lands, dramatic coastline, and beautiful beaches. The dogs, cats, sheep, horses, cows, goats, and wildflowers along the way completely captured my fancy.

    Near the end of the walk, we took a detour to Playa Gulpiyuri, the tiny inland beach hidden beneath the cliffs. It was low tide, but you could still see the wide sandy crescent tucked below the rock walls.

    I also met wonderful pilgrims from Seattle, Holland, Vancouver, and Ukraine. A few of us shared a menú del día at a cider house in Naves, which felt like the perfect Camino meal.

    It was a later start since the day was short — only about 10 miles. After two nights sleeping in top bunks, I decided I needed a little space and booked a hotel room instead. Pensión La Fonte was clean, comfortable, and a welcome place to rest. I booked it through Booking.com for about $60.    Read more

    Trip start
    May 17, 2026
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