Avilés to Muros de Nalon

Monday morning in Avilés was bright, sunny, and already warm. Before leaving town, I stopped at Correos to pick up a package I had sent ahead. With the temperature climbing and a later-than-planned start, I decided to shorten the day’s walk slightly by taking a train for part of the route.

The miles that followed were classic Asturias—rolling green hills, quiet country roads, and a route that zigzagged across rivers and bridges. At one point, we caught sight of a castle perched above a bend in the river, standing watch over the valley below. The small neighborhoods along the way were especially charming, with brightly painted walls, colorful flower pots, and whimsical statues tucked into gardens and courtyards.

I crossed paths with a few pilgrims who were staying at a different albergue that evening, but as I arrived, I felt glad I had chosen Casa Carmina. The sisters who run it were warm and welcoming, proudly telling me about their trip to California and “Jellostone” park years ago. Inspired by their visit, they planted sequoias in the yard and even built a teepee on a raised platform, giving the property a quirky and memorable touch. It was the kind of place that reflects the personality and passions of its owners.

A dirty beer (the kind you need immediately after finishing the walk for the day) and a shower worked their usual Camino magic. Afterward, a short stroll into town for Albariño and dinner was all it took to set things right and prepare for another day on the road.Read more