Soto de Luiña to Cadaveo

Day 11: Soto de Luiña to Cadavedo
22 km / 13.8 miles

The communal breakfast at the albergue was served promptly at 6:30 a.m. so everyone could get an early start and beat the heat. Emilia, our host, warned us that temperatures would reach 30°C (86°F) later in the day, and nobody needed much convincing. As a result, I set off at 7:15 a.m.—my earliest start of this Camino by far. I was so proud of this feat of fortitude that I pointed to the town clock on my way out as proof that I had actually managed to leave before most of Spain was awake.

Today’s stage was a classic stretch of the Camino del Norte—constantly rising and falling through some of Asturias’ most spectacular coastal scenery. I crossed more creeks than I can remember doing on any single day of a Camino. The route wound through lush stream valleys, shaded tree tunnels, pine forests, and hillsides bursting with foxgloves and wildflowers.

The pattern repeated throughout the day: descend into a green ravine, cross a bubbling creek, then climb steadily back up toward the cliffs. Each ascent brought another reward—sweeping views of the rugged coastline, dramatic sea cliffs, and the endless blue of the Cantabrian Sea.

Of course, I couldn’t resist another beach detour. It added a little extra distance, but it was well worth it. The beach was stunning, with striking patterns etched into the cliff faces and large sea caves carved by centuries of waves. It felt like one of those hidden corners of the coast that makes you stop and simply take it all in.

At 22 kilometers, this was my longest day so far on this Camino. Fortunately, much of the route followed natural trails rather than pavement, making the distance easier on my feet. By the time I reached Cadavedo, I was pleasantly tired rather than worn out—a good feeling after a day spent immersed in some of the finest coastal landscapes the Camino del Norte has to offer.Read more