Satellite
Show on map
  • Day 205

    Bariloche, Argentina

    May 10, 2017 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Bavarian Bariloche.

    Bariloche was once just a German-owned lakeside store - a stop on the perilous route from Buenos Aires to the rich ports of what is now Chile. Perhaps the Germans saw what the Argentinians didn't or perhaps the climate and geography felt like home, who knows? What we do know is that Bariloche now looks straight out of Switzerland. Stone and log cabins sprawl out from the lakes edge, artisenal cervecerias scatter the region and dozens of chocolate shops front the main street. About the only things missing are good cheese and German punctuality but those are easily replaced by Argentinian BBQ and afternoon siestas. If you're still not getting the picture - it's like Argentina and Germany got together and built Queenstown.

    It's understandably a popular destination. Adventure sport, skiing, hiking, eating and drinking are all top notch activites to be found within this Patagonian paradise. It's good enough for Obama. It's good enough for the Italian president (as we discovered by the excessive presence of police). And it's even good enough for Argentinian schoolies! In fact, it's rumoured to be good enough for Hilter and Eva! Conspiracy theorists will have you believe he escaped to Bariloche via a secret tunnel from his crows nest and took a submarine here to live out his old age with his two daughters. Believe what you like, but it's fact that several German war criminals were found hiding out here after the war.

    Like Queenstown, Bariloche is expensive so we decided to make it short and sweet spending just a day here. We treated ourselves to a ridiculously large meal at El Boliche de Alberto. We both ordered half portions of what must have been the biggest steaks you've ever seen, served with a mountain of fries and a bucket of salad. Obviously one requires a decent amount of beer and Malbec to eat that much food - so there was. We found the place on a recommendation from the lady at our hostel. I think I've mentioned it before but it's so nice to have friendly and helpful people greet you in a city. This lady (I forget her name - classic) asked us how long we had and what we liked to do and what our budget was. Then she planned our itinerary infront of us like a travel agent, giving directions, prices, making bookings and suggestions and then she took our washing. Not just that - she was sure to follow up with genuine interest as to how it all went. Top lass. I wish I could report the same for all hostel staff but the truth is they're few and far between.

    The next day, as Cat was suffering from 'sore legs' (likely a sore head or other associated over eating and drinking related illness) we decided to take it easy with a wee bike ride around Nahuel Huapi National Park on the Circuito Chaco. We hired some awesome bikes that had brakes, gears, helmets AND inflated tyres and took to the roads, chuffed not to be walking for once! It was a grey and windy day which detracted a little from the otherwise incredible scenery but it was still undoubtedly worthwhile. Particularly worthwhile was our stop at the Patagonia Brewery which offered much appreciated western comforts including delightful beer, wedges and icecream in a cosy building overlooking the lake. Did I mention we were indulging?

    We opted out of the late afternoon hill climb given the weather and the state of our energy levels and bussed back into town for some feet up time - the hours of 'riding' had taken their toll. Our hostel had free pizza that night which didn't happen until almost 10pm (Argentinians eat very late) and turned out to be cooked on a stove. Eating charcoal, tomato paste and cold cheese for dinner was a far cry from the previous two meals, but free food deserves no complaint. So we filled up largely on beer instead and were practically asleep before we even got to bed.

    We had a brief explore of Bariloche itself the next day in an effort to walk off what are unavoidably sugary breakfasts (included in our accommodation). We also needed a leg stretch before what will be almost two full days of transport. We're heading to San Raphael to volunteer on an 'Eco-Project'. It's on our way north but proving difficult to get to. As to what an 'Eco-project' entails, I guess we'll find out soon enough!
    Read more