A 66-day adventure by SailingSealaVie Read more
  • 36footprints
  • 2countries
  • 66days
  • 244photos
  • 8videos
  • 1.7kkilometers
  • 803sea miles
  • 15kilometers
  • Day 8

    Arrival Port Saint Louis, France

    April 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    An 8:00 a.m. delivery had us up and walking from the hotel 3 kms. to the Port in order to meet Sea la Vie as she arrived from Hendaye. The delivery went smoothly and into the water she went...she still floats! Lots to sort out and to put together, including the mast, but Day 1 complete under a sunny sky and le Mistral wind and a few temporary bad tempers!Read more

  • Day 12

    Progress!

    April 15, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    Today is our 5th day on the boat and all is proceeding well with only minor hiccups and a few 🤬!
    On day one after the boat went into the water, we got the engine going (tempoarily), the dodger and bimini up, the solar panels in and powering up and the living quarters emptied of sails and organized. The engine overheated which required Bob to don his diesel mechanic hat to repair, to no avail.
    Day 2: The Volvo mechanic came, blew into the in/outtake tubes, added some grease, et voilà, success! 10 minutes and €€! Bob had done the correct repairs, he just didn't know the tricks of the trade in spite of having a lot of hot air!😁🤪
    Bob worked on the mast, putting it together and sorting stays and lines while I was the swabbie, cook and general gofer.
    Day 3: More of the same.
    Day 4: Mast on! Stays attached and tightened so the mast won't fall over 😬 👍.
    Today the boom, and the lines are on but we do not dare to add the sails or we may take flight!
    The weather has been sunny with temp. from 5C at night to 22C but the wind!😯🤯💨💨💨 It blows 22-50 kms! Today we've reached +55 kms! I've told Bob we'll be staying at the dock until the wind slows down. Peut-être un mois???! Fortunately there are no waves although we woke up one morning at 0300 hrs. being tossed and turned. We leapt out of bed to rescue parts topside before they rolled into the sea!
    The 6km (round trip) by 🚲 to the grocery store is a challenge due to the wind but easy returning as the wind carries us home!
    Electricity is at a premium so only items under 500W can be plugged in. I figured out our heater worked after suffering a couple of nights/mornings and a cold 🚽 seat! 🥶 Sadly, the hairblower wattage is too much so I am back to my Medusa-like coiffure and Bob looks like he's been electrocuted!
    Bob the Barista has been re-employed under the threat of mutiny or keel-hauling, depending on the hierarchy of the day!
    We've met some lovely people, U.K., Swiss, Dutch and French. We enjoyed drinks at the yacht club and were questioned whether we were true sailors after stopping at 1 🍺 (to their 5!)
    The boatyard has a huge number (1000) of boats on land here in various states of seaworthiness, including 1 each from Quebec and Halifax! Catamarans seem to be the most common. The town has a harbour full of boats and there is another huge boatyard down the road. The town is typically French: shops close over lunch and on Sundays.
    Experiencing today's terrifying wind, I'm beginning to wonder whether canal cruising and stopping at cafes/pubs is the life for me?!
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  • Day 16

    What a difference...

    April 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Waking up Monday morning was a dream as the wind had dropped and it was calm and quiet! No howling, screeching, whistling wind, no whitecaps on the water and the boat was steady and level. We were able to get so much done in one day: both sails on, reconnected the bilge pump, swabbed the deck of salt and grit, rebuilt and installed the windvane and installed the depth sounder/speedometer. This last exercise required us to remove a plug in the bottom of the boat letting the sea 🌊 in 😬 and replacing the plug with the instrument. I expected a geyser to shoot upward soaking and blinding us while the boat filled...but it flowed in gently to sea level and we plugged it without difficulty and only a bit of water to sponge up.
    We've met a lovely 🇬🇧 couple and have shared 2 evenings and a game of Mexican train. They are heading west in their catamaran to the Canal de Midi up to Bordeaux and we are heading East. We'll share 1 more evening tomorrow with them and their guests. We are awaiting 2 deliveries then we'll set off towards Marseille provided Le Mistral wind doesn't blow again!
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  • Day 20

    We're off!

    April 23, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After waiting a week for packages, it turned out 1 hadn't been sent and the other was stuck in a FedEx warehouse 😡! We decided to set off. The sun was shining and the wind was light so off we went with our dinghy towing behind. The Golfe de Fos is a large industrial gulf with freighters anchored on one side and on the other, mussel farms and shellfish cages. We sailed out to the Mediterranean to a little cove, Anse du Verdon, where we anchored mid afternoon. The beach was filled with people swimming (sea water temp 19C! 🥶) and paddling and walking along the limestone rocky fjord. 2 other boats were anchored but left late afternoon. Perhaps it was a sign we should have followed! We were protected from the increasing wind💨 but not from the swell. We had dinner and we were rewarded with a beautiful evening sky and its reflected colours. The clear night was full of 🌟 with a crescent 🌙 as we rocked, rolled and swung around our anchor! 😬😖🥱Read more

  • Day 21

    Rockin' rollin', swingin', oh Marseille!

    April 24, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

    As we rolled, rocked, and swung on the anchor in Verdon, I kept watch as Bob slept unperturbed😴 while sleeping sideways to keep from rolling! We had agreed to keep watch in case the anchor dragged, but it turned out I was the only one who kept watch🧐😡! I stayed up until 0500 hrs. watching the moon set, the constellations drift, and the harbour lights flicker, ensuring we weren't ending up on the beach or the rocks. After sleeping a couple of hours🥱, we got organized to sail to Marseille. The clear blue sky and glorious sun were deceiving as there were weather warnings of swells and winds💨 +50 kms! Bob said, "It'll be fine; it's all downwind." 😬🙄We hauled the dinghy aboard and set the mainsail double reefed (smaller) and headed out. As soon as we got out of the harbour and into the swells🌊 and wind, we realized it was too much sail, took down the mainsail, and let out a small portion of the jib. In spite of locking things down below, there were doors swinging and banging and canisters falling from the shelves creating a small mess of scattered containers and food. I secured things, and once we turned downwind, it was relatively smooth surfing! The wind howled, whistled, and moaned along with boat creaks, sail flapping, and alarms warning of +25 knot winds. Unsettling, so Bob steered and I watched the coastline. The coast has small communities dotted along the limestone cliffs worn away by wind and waves. Otherwise, it's quite scrubby looking, and the houses seem to blend in even with their faded red roofs. After 4 hours and only seeing 1 other sailboat,  a freighter, and a cruise ship, on went the motor, we rolled the sail in and came towards the harbour. We looked for the conspicuous landmarks - Notre Dame high on the hill, 3 church domes near the water, and the Fort tower to lead us past the piers and the buoys. Relief! I had another moment of panic when the Capitainerie asked if we had a reservation...but he found us a spot. The harbour is packed with boats without finger docks between, so reversing in is necessary to make it easier to get off. Fortunately, our neighbours had lots of bumpers to fend us off, and Bob did an excellent job squeezing us in. After a tidy up and a late lunch, we walked around the harbour that was bustling with people, cars, motorbikes, bicycles, and ferries coming and going. Nous sommes arrivés!Read more

  • Day 26

    Marseille and beyond

    April 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    After spending 4 nights in Marseille with some daytime visits to churches, forts, museums and bakeries, we sailed off for Port Miou. The sailing was a mixed bag of tacking, motorsailing then reefing (too tilty!) and finally an easy comfortable tack to the harbour. The coastline has steep limestone cliffs with crags, holes, pinnacles and ridges with pine trees growing from the crevices at gravity defying angles. The entrances to the Calanques (fjords) are well camouflaged until another boat appears seemingly out of the rock wall! There were mooring balls for us to tie up to fore and aft but other boats had to tie up to rings in the rocky wall either by paddling their dinghy over or swimming! We watched the comings and goings of boats in and out and kids jumping from the cliffs into the clear, cold water. The night was so different from Verdon 😁! In the morning, we hopped into the dinghy and motored up the harbour which goes far back and is full of boats. We headed back to the Calanques outside Port Miou and ran out of gas halfway! 🤦‍♂️🤦🏻‍♀️Bob rowed us back to Sea la Vie where we filled up and set off again. I'm sure the hikers on the cliff were laughing at us! There are lots of hikers, kayakers, stand up paddlers and, near the beach, rock climbers. 😬 We took a hike then set off sailing. Interestingly, the geology changes from the white limestone west of Cassis to brown rock full of striations and recesses east of Cassis, and the hills become forested. It was lovely sailing and motoring to Île des Embiez where we anchored off the beach. The island was built up by Paul Ricard (liquor) and it has a marine research centre, aquarium, and is a nature reserve. The flora is beautiful. The harbour and shops around it are lovely, clean and well maintained. A desirable and popular place to visit even in a misty overcast day.Read more

  • Day 28

    Ile des Porquerolles to Saint Tropez

    May 1, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    A beautiful beach and anchorage. We met 2 other Canadian boats/people from Quebec!
    Île des Porquerolles initially colonised by Greeks then Romans. In the 16th century, criminals could seek asylum/immunity but many became pirates! That plan was later abolished.
    The area is a nature reserve with lovely hikes through pines, myrtle,cork, chestnuts and eucalyptus and the waters are a marine reserve. Idyllic.
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  • Day 29

    Saint Tropez, ooh la la!

    May 2, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Mega yachts and racing yachts galore. Huge yachts with fenders/bumpers taller than me and dressed with fabric covers! When Bob asked where to dock our dinghy, the Capitainerie asked how big is it...really, 2 meters is of no consequence! 🤣 So we docked beside a 31 meter yacht, Blue Bird, built in 1938 for Sir Malcolm Campbell. A busy place with restaurants lining the port, all with white table cloths, fine china and offering champagne. Of course, €€€€€.Read more

  • Day 30

    Saint Rafael

    May 3, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We sailed up to Saint Rafael after our dinghy visit to Saint Tropez yesterday. It's actually much prettier than Tropez as the town is on a huge, lovely beach with a promenade, and the French requisite: a ferris wheel and carousel. There are 3 marinas and after stopping in one, had to move to another. Disappointing as the showers were cold and the electrical connection didn’t work! But we needed to stay as we had to train back to Marseille and didn’t want to leave the boat at anchor all day. But that’s another story...Read more

  • Day 31

    CANNES 👎

    May 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    The sail up to Cannes was lovely passing gorgeous villas and yachts anchored including a 60 meter with a slide into the water off the bow! We anchored off the old port of Cannes for a quick look-see and grocery shop. There was so much construction going on as they are prepping for the Film Festival next week. We rowed over to a jetty but were told we could not stay as it's under construction and part of a hotel. So we rowed to the corner of the beach by the Palais des Congress where they were erecting canopies and tents for the Festival. A security guard let us through and we wandered past the mega yachts being polished, washed, and scrubbed, and along the hotel strip where hotel guests can rent a sunbed on the beach for 25€ and eat a slice of cheesecake for 20€! People were lined up to take a selfie while on the red carpet entrance to Palais des Congress! The cafés and restaurants were full ( a Norwegian cruise ship was anchored) and the town was glossy, shiny, polished. We grocery shopped and stopped at the boulangerie where I was reprimanded for touching the glass case showing the pastries.
    We walked back to the area where we had our dinghy, alerted the security guard who let us through, and walked down to the dinghy pulled up on the beach. The guard suddenly appeared and started a French diatribe that we weren't supposed to be there, this was an expensive beach for guests, we were tourists, and she was calling the police/security. Bob tried to explain and she walked away while calling for backup and wouldn't let us leave. This was the same woman who let us through! Fortunately, calmer heads prevailed and the 2nd security who came along just told us to leave and not come back as we were tourists, not guests. Perhaps they thought we were refugees in our rowboat? 🤣
    We rowed back and motored to Île Saint Marguerite, an island just off Cannes, and anchored for the night.
    For all its shine and gloss, it's a veneer that covers an unwelcoming attitude unless you are part of the wealthy, mega star elite. Disappointing.
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