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Spring Fling into the MediterrSpring Fling into the Mediterr
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A 66-day adventure by SailingSealaVie Read more
  • 36footprints
  • 2countries
  • 66days
  • 244photos
  • 8videos
  • 1.7kkilometers
  • 803sea miles
  • 15kilometers
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  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 32

    Île Saint Marguerite to Villefranche (Ni

    May 5, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    After our hasty exit from Cannes, we motored a very short distance to Île Saint Marguerite where we anchored for the night. There is a 17th century Fort Royal where the "Man in the Iron Mask" was imprisoned. His identity has never been established and the mask was apparently velvet. The anchorage was lovely and quiet with a few small power boats there for the afternoon and 5 sailboats for the night. Bob rowed us ashore in the morning and we walked through the pine and oak forest to the Fort. We had seen lots of kids on a small beach and there they were having breakfast outside after sleeping at the Fort! The French version of our outdoor school! We continued walking around the island then returned to our boat with me rowing us back. Lovely clear turquoise water. As we sailed towards Nice, we saw a large school of big fish jumping and splashing and a flock of birds flying and diving above them. No idea what they were but there were fishing boats nearby. As we were cruising towards Nice, there were planes overhead about every 2 minutes. As Nice is the 3rd largest city in France, it's no wonder. The runway runs along the water so we had a good view of comings and goings. We had a slight disagreement about whether to go the marina in Nice or to an anchorage just beyond. I wanted to do laundry and I knew the marina had facilities. Bob thought we could anchor and go by dinghy to the marina in Villefranche. Which we did but arrived 10 minutes after the Capitainerie closed. 🤦🏻‍♀️😡 The town centre and another laundrette are up a steep 10 minute climb so I gave up. Dirty for another day. ugh. A Celebrity cruise ship was at the entrance to the anchorage and, unbeknownst to us until later, was blocking the swells. They left and the rocking, rolling, up, down, swinging began! Bob put out another anchor to keep us lined up but the wind shifted all night so he was up adjusting and sleeping between shifts. I was just up. The night was neither happy, nor clean, nor restful! We had decided we were going to Corsica, a 95 mile journey, so set the alarm for 5 a.m. I needn't have bothered with the alarm!Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    11
    Day 33

    Corsica, on arrive!

    May 6, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We started at 5 a.m. with a full Flower moon and the wind about 10 knots outside the anchorage. Bob raised the anchors, 1 by hand, the other by electrics, then off we motored until the sun came up. There were some minor swells and waves but comfortable. When the sun came up, we double reefed the main and were sailing at 6.5 - 8 knots. It didn't last though as the wind started to slow so we motor sailed then motored. We were alone on the sea as the only 2 nearest boats were 25 and 40 nautical miles away. We could still see the French coastline after 25 n.m. and 3 1/2 hours but we didn't see Corsica until 5 1/2 hours later (and only because it's so mountainous and with snow!) and it was another 7 1/2 hours before we docked! 3 times we saw an interesting fin out of the water that looked like it was waving at us and I finally figured it must be a seal flipper. More vilellas in huge patches floating along and 2 dolphins paid a visit. Strangely, no birds. At 1500 hrs. Captain Bob announced that after traveling North we were now at our most Southern point to date! Woohoo!
    The sun was setting and we could see conspicuous buildings on the land. A Club Med ship and a square rigged cruise boat set off from Calvi. The lights on the coast twinkled on, the lighthouse flashed and we motored into Calvi, Corsica, after almost 17 hours. Arriving to a new harbour is always challenging but doing it in the dark is even more so. It's easy to confuse lights in the town and harbour with navigation lights but our chart, Bob's sense of direction and following a distant boat ahead made it relatively stress free. We docked with the help of a boatload (12) of Czech🇨🇿 kids on a scout sailing trip! It was Saturday night at 10 p.m. and the music and lights on the harbourfront were at full volume and power! The dj /bands were playing English speaking covers, even Abba! We both showered then fell into bed after a long day and a sleepless night before. Lovely to be in a calm harbour. 😴    Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 34

    Calvi, Corsica

    May 7, 2023 in France

    Our day in Calvi was a mixture of chores and touring. I got my laundry done, woohoo, and met an Australian couple in the laundromat, who are visiting Corsica then off to walk a section of the Camino for the 3rd time! You meet interesting people doing laundry! Went to the grocery store since they close early on Sunday then we walked the harbour front and stopped for lunch. Later, we walked to the Citadel where there are apartments inside the walls. Wandered out to the point along a cliffside trail then up to the top. Back along the streets and shops. Calvi reminds me a little of Guernsey with the harbour right in front of the town. Unfortunately, the music was LOUD again and lasted until 1 a.m., despite it being Sunday night. Bob and I wondered who the djs were catering to since we've mostly seen gray hairs👩‍🦳🧑‍🦳 like us here! Even so, it was lovely to get into clean pjs and sheets!Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 35

    Calvi to Macinaggio (west to east side)

    May 8, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We didn't intend to go north around Cap Corse this day, notorious for its wind and waves, but we were lulled by the calm sea, light winds and warm sunshine...HA! As we got closer to the cape, the wind increased, as did the swells so we double reefed the mainsail in anticipation. What was supposed to be a short jaunt up the coast ended up being 10 hours and around the cape! The west coast is mountainous and rugged with few communities and few harbours. So we decided to keep going and into a marina on the east, Macinaggio. The wind had completely switched from blowing from the west to blowing from the southeast. 2 dolphins jumped beside us, which I think of as a good omen. We motored into the calm water of the marina before sunset but the wind was still blowing us. I think Bob is training me to be an Olympic standing long jumper. He keeps telling me to jump onto the dock below, with the lines, while we're a meter away, and moving!😬🤯🥺😡
    It was what we call "amateur" as our lines were not clear so there was a lot of pulling and wrapping and tying and switching before we got locked down and secure Whew! Anchoring is a lot less stressful than docking but not necessarily calm. Docking vs anchoring...always advantages and disadvantages to both. Naturally, the wind dropped later and it was a calm and quiet night. 😴    Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 36

    Town, trails and beach

    May 9, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    A lovely day walking through the very small town of Macinaggio, along the beach and up the hills. This area has rolling hills and beaches between. There are lots of hiking trails so we wandered inland after crossing the town beach (where we might have anchored) then came above the next beach over. We came back along the sea cliffs - a very rocky path and back to the town. We decided to go in the dinghy to the other beach. The dinghy is folded up like a surfboard so there is a bit of work required to set it up: unfold and prop open, put the 3 seats in, lift it into the water and Bob puts the engine on while balancing. It's quite heavy without the engine so we use a halyard with me cranking the winch💪 while Bob steadies it. Off we went, passing some jellyfish, to see an islet with a tower and then to the beach where there is a beach bar/cafe. The bar was busy and there were others sunbathing, walking, a group of hikers setting off, and a few swimmers but by no means was it crowded. I eventually got my nerve up and ventured in. It was refreshing and lovely and the day was hot enough not to feel cold when we came back motoring in the dinghy. A fun day.Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 37

    Another day, another docking disaster.

    May 10, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We got up early to be at the fuel dock when it opened at 0800 hrs. and to get an early start to Bastia even though it's a short distance. The wind started out at 14 knots so we set off with a reefed main and a partial jib. The wind got shifty and slowed so we motorsailed. The sea swells were from the SE and the wind shifted to W so the waves were mixed 🤢. Nestled on the hillsides, in varying shades of green, are houses, communities, vineyards, and olive groves. Looking at those houses on the mountainsides, I always wonder how far someone has to go to get milk! As we got closer to Bastia, the wind came whistling and howling down the mountainsides and our +25 knot wind alarm kept sounding. We went into the 1st little harbour recommended as an all weather safe harbour and were told they were full, even though we could see empty spaces. 😡👎That would not happen in Holland or Atlantic France as they let you raft up. In the Mediterranean, they want to pack as many boats in so boats go stern in to the dock with a mooring line off the bow and no finger docks between. So we went back out and down to the vieux port of Bastia where the water was calm but the wind was still blowing 25 knots. As we neared the quay, we realized there was a ledge jutting out just under the water! Reversed quickly then turned and went stern in with me jumping on the quay to attach stern lines. I enlisted a couple passing by to hold lines but now the boat was being blown sideways onto the quay! There was a flurry of leaping on and off, a gathering of bumpers and pulling of lines to get us perpendicular to the quay. We ended up with 2 heavy duty mooring lines attached to cement blocks under water and 3 dock lines on the windward side and 2 on the other to hold it against the wind! We joked later that it would be tough to explain to the insurance co. how a boat sank in a marina! 🤷‍♀️ We were secure, and doubly so when the wind calmed that evening to nothing! 🤦🏻‍♀️
    With the wind still howling, a group practicing survival skills leapt into the water beside us. We didn't see them climbing into the liferaft but I'm sure it was challenging in that wind! We went for a wander, passing Napoléon's statue made to resemble Jupiter, and visited the the biggest church in Corsica built in 1636 with a pulpit made of marble and an organ loft built to resemble the stern of a ship. We made plans for the next day's train adventure to Corte, in the mountainous centre of Corsica. A stress free night.👍    Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 38

    Train adventure

    May 11, 2023 in France ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was a land adventure day to the middle of Corsica, a town called Corte, on a narrow gauge train. It travels along the coast making lots of stops then turns inland and up in the mountains past vineyards, and olive groves and small communities. There are 19 mountains taller than 2000 meters on Corsica! The Citadel of Corte is one of 7, is the only one built inland, and was started in 1419. It's built upon a rock above the town and is also called the "Eagles Nest". In 1769 the building of the Citadel continued. There is an anthropological museum of Corsica at the Citadel and the town of Corte also has a university! We had our last French meal (at least until we return to Paris to fly home!) at a restaurant around vieux Bastia. Bob says he's had his fill of moules frites and it's time to move on to Italian food 🍝🍕🍰🍨!Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 39

    Au revoir France, ciao Italy!

    May 12, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our departure from Bastia was completely different from our arrival: we undid all the lines and drove out! No fuss, no bother, no wind! 😀 We set off for Elba in the sunshine with a little wind so set the sails but kept the motor on. Close to 2 hours later, we could see the mountains on Elba and Bob removed the French flag and raised the Italian courtesy flag. As we cruised along the north side of Elba, the wind switched and brought with it a spectacular lightning and thunder storm 🌩⛈. We anchored in a calm bay protected from the north wind...until it switched to west with stronger winds and waves! So, we lifted the anchors and decided to go around the corner to Portoferraio where we could either anchor or go into a marina, weather depending. It was pouring with rain, wind and waves, and lightning and thunder above us but as we got closer to Portoferraio, the sun appeared, the bay was calm, so we anchored amongst other sailboats. It stopped raining but there was still flashes of lightning all evening and into the night. We did 2, in the dark, "anchor dances" where we lift the anchor and reset it because it's dragging, and finally got a good hold. We had our GPS coordinates so checked that they hadn't changed over time. Bob was sleeping 😴 soundly as I did a final check and fell asleep to the gentle rocking and quiet.Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 40

    Portoferraio to Porto Azzurro

    May 13, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    After a swinging on the anchor but a calm night we took the dinghy into Portoferraio for a walk around the town and up to Fort Falcone, a seaside fortress built between the 16th -18th centuries. Lovely views of the town, bays and beaches. We picked up some pastries, not so different from French, and motored back to Sea la Vie. We headed North again (!) but as we rounded the corner, Captain Bob announced we are heading south from now on! We are not at our furthest (Calvi) but soon, maybe tomorrow! Sadly, the weather was not southern like (or like Vancouver apparently) as it was cloudy, cool and rained off and on. We motorsailed past ferries coming and going (they are constant!), the Italian mainland town of Piombino, only a few nautical miles away, and sailboats in Saturday afternoon races. It was only 17 n.m. to Porto Azzurro on the east coast of Elba but the weather made it feel longer. We anchored in a sheltered bay in front of a lovely hotel and beach, across from the Citadel and the town. A few other boats came and went in the anchorage with one boatload swimming! The rain stopped and it was a quiet night but cool and damp. I was wanting our plug in heater but a hot water bottle sufficed.Read more

  • TravelerSpring Fling into the Mediterr
    Day 41

    Mother's Day

    May 14, 2023 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We had a lovely calm night and instead of going into Azzurro, we/Captain Bob decided we should get an early start at 7:30! The day was lovely in that we had a decent wind from behind so we motorsailed and sailed down to Talamone on the mainland. Not much to see along the way as we were far enough out so our view was of sun, clouds, waves, distant islands and shores. The sun was shining and the seas were with us so it was calm, and peaceful. The typical pattern is for the wind to increase in the afternoon and, right on schedule, it started blowing as we were coming into Talamone bay. We were anchoring so it was not a problem and our anchor dug in as the 22 knot wind swung us around. Bob suggested that taking the dinghy off the foredeck would reduce the windage and lessen the swinging. So, Bob made a cradle using lines, directed the aim and I winched it up 💪. As I was lowering it to the water, the cradle lines shifted, the boat went vertical into the water and filled up! The seats were still above water and Bob was holding it so I grabbed a bailing pot and climbed in and started scooping hoping it wouldn't list too far and send me overboard! The water actually felt quite lovely but I wasn't prepared to take a dip! Once the bailing was done, I requested a cocktail, in a fancy glass, with my favourite chips! The kids called so the day was a success. ❤The entertainment was watching windsurfers and kite surfers zip around the bay at incredible speeds in the wind. Eventually the wind calmed and it was a peaceful night.Read more

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