Africa, Australia and Asia

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Seuraa Yhteenveto Kalenteri Valokuvat Jaa

Africa, Australia and Asia Powell Ettinger
Taxi Bachee
26. lokakuuta 1989, Mali
Due to the delay we arrived in Mopti at about 03.30, Friday Morning, and having disembarked we were told the vessel wasn't going anywhere unbtil noon so we reboarded and went back to our bunks.

Redisembarked at 07.30 and went to the bank to change money where we met a Welshman amongst others who was travelling all over Africa, but poofily.

Having cambio'd we went to the Gare Routiere to look for a Taxi Bachee to Djenne, which, after much tooing and froing, haggling, waiting etc we were told it would leave at 12.

We had many offeres of guides for the Falaise, a sharp kid called Assou who spoke excellent English (Mali beat GB at table football 6-5) and a chap who asked for 100,000 - Just for his collection you understand!

Come 12 we were told the taxi would leace at 2 as a woman had gone to the mosque for a couple of hours. Eventually, things seemed to be happening so I went for a front corner seat - Seemed like a good idea, good view, cooling wind plenty of room - Wrong. Cooling wind was like a blast furnace, very dusty and absolutely no room - Extreme discomfort.Lue lisää
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Mud mosque.
26. lokakuuta 1989, Mali
Eventually arrived in Djenne after a flat tyre and a ferry crossing at about 18.15. Had to pay SMERT a cut o ebter Djenne, but eventually found our way to the Campement. Agreed prices and were shown to our huts.

After a quick showere and drink with a nice Dutch couple (Helen & Robert, and architect) went out looking for some supper. Ended up in an old woman's house, all eating out of a bowl on the floor, no lights, tools rtc, just a few broken pots and some wooden stools; A bowl full of rice with 2 fish in some dark brown spicy sauce. Alll ok, but not outsanding.Lue lisää
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Good morrow to you magistrate
27. lokakuuta 1989, Mali
Woke to find a crowned crane outside my door. Had breakfast and and were presented with a bill for our rooms. The price had gone up 2000, so we refused to pay, and all moved into 1 room. We were given a quick tour of Djenne by our SMERT apponted guide, including a visit to the 'Legendary Mosque'. Intereseting but no more, and the view from the top was V boring. (We were originally told that it was impossible to see inside the mosque, as it is such a holy place, but for 10 $USD it could be arranged, and it was).

We dispensed with our guide and I went for a walk around the 'beach' as Djenne is an island. Dirty, ratty squalid with lots of people washing, swimming and fishing.

We decided not to wait for the market on Monday and to leave on Sunday morning. However there were further disputes over the bill, so we payed what we had agreed (rather than what they were now asking) and left. We set up shop in 'our corner', by the coke shop on an old motor engine. It wasn't long before we were approached by the local police man, who wanted to know why we hadn't paid our hotel bill. We explained to him the problem, and he was very reasonable about it (seemingly).
"Ah, I see the problem, we have a dispute. Under these circumstances we will let the magistrate decide".
I agreed to this, and requested to go an see the magistrate immediately, only to be told that the magistrate was expected "2 weeks on Thursday"!

After two visits to the police station to discuss this we recognised that we had been done (and to this day I take my hat off to one of the better scams) and we paid in full.

We settled down on our engine to wait for transport out of town, and became the focus of attention for the usual gang of scruffians, some annoying, others not. We were eventually reduced to drawing a large circle in the sand and making a few juju signs, and this did keep them at bay for a while. We then (Eds note - ashamed to say) that we upped the ante by then pointing at 1-2 of them and making the cut throat sign which really freaked them out.

By mid-afternoon it became apparent that there was no transport leaving town that day, leaving us with a dilemma. The only official accommodation in town was the campement, but we refused to go back there, so we found a room in someones back yard to sleep in, not particularly comfy and probably illegal, though cheap.Lue lisää
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A good honest brothel
28. lokakuuta 1989, Mali
Monday came, market day, amd we again set up in our corner, and had long chats with the Dutch couple and a funny Spanish couple. After a long and fairly boring market, where I indulged in a bag ull of BBQ goat, tough but salty, and the remains of which I gave to the kids which sparked a big argument.

Eventually the Bachee left, but the driver had the wrong papers, so he deposited everyone on the edge of town and went back to get his ID. Came back about 45 minutes later and drove down the river bank to the ferry zone, but drove too far down and got stuck in a stupid place, way past where the ferry came in. Eventually, after having to virtually carry the Bachee bodily to the ferry, and then rowing the ferry to the right spot, it still took another 15 minutes manouevering to get the vehicle onto the ferry.

The bachee was a pickup truck with covered back and seats around the sides and front. Once everyone had settled in there was abit of a commotion as a large (width not height) policeman appeared, announced that he was coming with us (no fee) and demanded the best seat from the ladies who were already sitting there. He was a fat obnoxious T&!t with zero idea of public service or manners.

The ferry crossed and after a short breakdown we took off towards Mopti - 3 hours for 3 KMS. Got back to Mopti and headed for the Bar Mali - A good honest Brothel.Lue lisää
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Haggling guides
29. lokakuuta 1989, Mali
After a quick look at Mopti in the morning we decided it didn't merit a day - Only the huge pirogues in the port laden with lare blocks of salt moved the interestometer. Called David and found a Taxi to Bankas, which was almost full, a miracle (Bachees generally don't go until they are full, so you want to be the last on board to avoid waiting, but then get the worst seats.). % hurs to Bankas via a market, a dodgy kebab and a small family of monkeys.

On arrival in Bankas immediately set upon by some aggressive offers of guides. Followed them to Bens Bar which seemd OK, so agreed to stay the night. Started haggling over the rice of a guide - startyed with 50,000 for 1 night and 2 days, down to 40,000 for 2 + 3 but didn't like the guide and he couldn't speak English. In the meantime a very nice matey who spoke excellent English hung around, and we struck a deal with him for 20,000 for 2 + 3. This caused a big argument as apparently the 1st to spot the tourists has the right to be their guisen but we said we would take Mamadou or no one, and after more arguments it was agreed.Lue lisää
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Mamadou Sankou and the Dogon people
31. lokakuuta 1989, Mali
The Dogons (As explained by Mamadou) came to the area about the end of 12th Century, eventually displacing the pygmies, who they found living on the face of the Falaise, a long, steep escarpment, overhanging in many places, along, under and on which the Dogons built their villages.
Those living under the escarpment usually built their villages 1/2 way up, under large overhangs, to protect them from the weather. A sensible idea as their building are built from mud and their lives are almost totally dependent on Millett, which they store in slightly raised storage huts. The villages on top of The Falaise, where the ground is mostly rock, have developed a system of growing vegetables in rock crevices where the water gathers in the soil that has been placed their for this purpose from below, though we didn't actually see any of this vegiculture. This system has apparently always produced enough food for the Dogon people (apparently around 25000 people , though someone claimed 1 million), even during the drought years of 1973 - 1986. The last 2 years the rains have been good, and the lower villages have grown enough millett each year to last for 2 years. Much of the excess is swapped with the upper villages in return for vegetables.

Added to this they have good flocks of goats and plenty of cattle, and lots of donkeys. However things are not nearly as rosy as they sound - Since the rains have been good locusts have swarmed and have reduced much of the crop to animal feed only. We found some kids collecting locusts, pulling their legs and wings off and putting them in their pockets. Turns out they supplement their diets with locust protein - I tried one, deep fried, with a little lemon and salt. To be honest it was quite like chips, not bad at all.
In Bankas the well they use is 110 metres deep and is only allowed to be used for drinking water, not washing or watering. Healthwise, as in the rest of Mali, things are very bad - Infant mortality is 30% and most of the rest have huge umbilical hernias; life expectancy is low and they quite often look 60 when they are 35, especially the women.

Their religion and their culture is changing from animism to Islam which doesn't help - IE the hunters no longer make the correct sacrifices to the right beings so all confidence in them has long gone, and their are no animals left to hunt anyway. They used to play an important role, illustrated by the fact that there are still quite a few hunters, though they now tend to hunt tourists to sell them trinkets rather than elephant and lion, maybe a good thing?

Despite the harshness of the environment they seem to be a happy and friendly people, though outside influences are spoiling them somewhat, as in many other cultures around the world. And also they have the usual corruption problem, last week the chief admin man, his deputy, the chief of police and 2 other leading dignitaries were thrown into jail.Lue lisää
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Falaise Spa
1. marraskuuta 1989, Mali
Got up about 06.00 (wed 1 nov) and had a quick coffee and bread before setting off to Ennde, some 12 kms distant at the foot of The Falaise. We lft most of our stuff at Ben's Bar and filled up our water sack Chez Mamadou, having been introduced to his family. Set off at a brisk pace along the sandy roads at about 07.15, Mamadou and me slightly ahead and the others 2 lagging. Discussed life, the Universe + everything with Mamadou, who seems V intelligent and cares deeply about his people and his country. The great problems are as much self-inflicted as anything. The corruption and the mis-placed ideals of many of the younger men + women (western influence) breaking down the traditional family way of life.

Jan however did not entirely approve of the Dogon way of life. The women appear to do all of the work. From the age of about 5 they are left in charge of smaller siblings, and quite often spend the day in the fields or pounding millett with a small one strapped to their backs.

The millett pounding is quite a feature, always carried out by the women - Once they get into a rhythm they appear to enjoy it, clapping their hands and banging the mortar on the side of the pestle, sometimes singing as well, often in groups, with up to 3 working the same mortar simultaneously. The women also have their 'cupboards' - stone houses like millett stores but smaller where they keep their things. Divided into compartments they keep anything from their Jewelry to various herbs and spices and their clothing too. The women also have hut areas where they go for four days while having their periods.

The men, especially the elders, have stone bench areas with mud & thatch roofs where they sit, play Woaley (Eds note - Mankala?) & discuss life.

The walk was flat at first through the millett fields much of which was being left for fodder, rendered useless by the locusts. There were 5 small hills with the final crest giving a great view of the Falaise escarpment about 1km distant. With the old Dogon village 1/2 way up very much in view and the new village hidden in the trees at the base. Each village is a collection of family enclosures and Ennde is a collection of 5 small villages.

On arrival at the village we were introduced to the chief, as in every village, who gets his cut, and we had an expensive warm soda. Thence to the campement towards the end of the village, which seemed comfy enough. After settling in we were given a quick tour of the old village, mostly disused, but some store houses are still considered the best, being under the overhang, providing protection.

After lunch we made our way up a small valley/gorge to some rocky pools, hardly a waterfall, more a dribble. Selected the best one and had a bath, though the water didn't look too clean, and little fish would nibble at your legs (Norman?). Also lots of local lads were trying to get vantage points to gape and gawp. Returned to the village about 16.30, by which time my achilles tendon had stiffened up considerably. Seb took over the mantle of chef and did V well, with some chicken and rice. A lorry load had been in Ennde earlier, and now 2 yanks who we had seen in Mopti & Djenne turned up with a watermelon, and became very popular by sharing it with us and all the locals. All washed down with some Millett beer.Lue lisää
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Wise man
2. marraskuuta 1989, Mali
Next morning we set off to Teli, about 4kms along the base of the Falaise. Ankle was stiff but loosened up after a while. A pleasant walk, not too hot and lots of bright colour birds and exotic noises. In Teli we were again introduced to the chief and then visited the old village. Had tea in a rather picturesque Campement with lots of gourds hanging from a vine. There is still one old wise man living in the old village who still follows his animist beliefs and has his food brought to him daily by his sons.Lue lisää
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Market day
2. marraskuuta 1989, Mali
Another 3 KMs away and we arrived in Kani-Kombole on market day. I was all marketede out and this was a very small market enlivened by a solitary camel. The Spanish couple were at the market, with a big flashy camera and stories from around the world. After a quick kip & excellent tomato Omlette we set off up the Falaise, through a rocky gorge and up the side of a very steep rocky steps to the top of the Falaise. It wasn't so steep as to prevent the local girls from marching up and down carrying huge bundles on their heads.Lue lisää
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Jiggy Jiggy on top of the world
2. marraskuuta 1989, Mali
From the top it seemd like you could see the world. The cliff must be 60 metres high and over 100 KMS long apparently, with a large nearly flat plain in front. A couple of KMS along the flat rock road we came to the gloriously named Djiguibombo. It looked and felt very difefrent to the lower villages, though we were made very comfy and welcome. After another Seb brew (Mash and sardines) i retired to a fairly uncomfy night under a semi-collapsed mossy-net.Lue lisää
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Funking the Hip
3. marraskuuta 1989, Mali
After a conducted tour of the village and an impromptu clinic (almost everyone has large sores and a headache) we set off back to the top of the Falaise and another spectacular view of the plain. My Achilles was very sore but I struggled on, what a martyr! We descended the very steep path preceded by 1/2 dozen young girls carrying huge bundles of wood on their heads, back to Koni-Kombele, where we hired a donkey cart of take us the last 2 KMS in the heat of the day (Lazy buggers). Another cart had been hired by 2 fat girls who were off an overland truck, A Scot and a Yank, to get back to the lorry that was awaiting them in Bankas. After a very hot ride during which Seb upset the (apple)cart by sitting too far to the back and lifting the poor donkey off the ground. The poor beast was regularly beaten for his troubles too. On returning to Bankas we found the rest of the lorry party, naturally including a Kiwi nurse that Jan knew.

They truck departed and we had a stroke of luck as we found a bachee for Koro tout suite. We eventually reached Koro when the campement was clean and friendly, and the spaghetti fairly edible.

The posters on the wall were hilarious - with v bad translations into English, one of a disco championship with such gems as "Digging the knife and Fork" and "Funking the Hip".Lue lisää
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Chelsea 4 - Milwall 0
4. marraskuuta 1989, Mali
Proper shits for the first time (was still going a week and two countries later - Eds note - later self diagnosis of Giardia). Tried to starve them out, and to feed them out both unsuccessfully, so i think I have a proper illness. Will have to visit a Dr but will probably wait for Kenya. Spent the whole day huddling in the shade of a wall , waiting for a bachee to Burkino Faso to fill up, and negotiating the price with various people to take a taxi. Eventually gave up about 4pm, though we had already had our passports stamped for leaving, and went back to the campement. The highlight of the day was CFC beating Milwall 4-0 and going top!Lue lisää
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Desert Storm off
5. marraskuuta 1989, Burkina Faso
Sunday morning, after settling down for another long wait, we got word that there was a truck leaving for Ouahigouya toute-suite. Of course we weren't packed or anything so everything was flung in bags and the truck had to wait. The road was V bumpy and the truck took 7 hours to cover 100 kms, including numerous control stops, and a 2.5 hour wait at the douanes , during which Jan blew a fuse, donned her rucksac and stormed off over the hill into the desert, having announced she was going to walk - Reappeared 25 mins later.
Eventually crossed and reached Ouahigouya early evening, found cheap beers, clean hotel room with mossy nets + clean shower en-suite, and the best meal we had had since Dakar, and all quite cheap too.

It wasn't until we left Mali that we realised what a hard, poor, backward country it really is, and v poor value for money. (Eds note - Mali made Burkina Faso seem luxurious and cheap!).

Several huge diarrhoea attackes during the night and reduced to tearing pages from a book as bog roll had run out!Lue lisää
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Ouagadougou, Kadiogo, Burkina Faso
5. marraskuuta 1989, Burkina Faso ⋅ 34 °C
Caught the 7AM bus to Ouagga - A real bus that ran on time, with real seats and windows. 3.5 hours to Ouagga, but the bus co was situated in the middle of town so we didn't have to fanny around. Found a hotel just over the road and had a very good meal next door, though it wasn't cheap.

Ouagga doesn't have that much to offer, even the huge new central market is full of tacky goods. It was here that we received 2 major set backs, both on Thursday. It would take us 10 days to get a Ghana visa, and the Nazinga Forest, a large park that you can walk around in Southern Burkina was shut until 15th December. (Eds note - Ghana visa delay was so frustrating. I sort of understand why it is difficult, in retaliation for UK making it difficult for Ghanaians to get visas to UK, but misses the point. We just wanted to go and spend $$$ there). This combined information just about put paid to any further west Africa travel, psychologically as much as practically. We could still go to for Cote D'Ivoire but Jan would have to get a visa, or wait 10 days for Ghana visa, but decided on Togo and a possible flight to Nairobi, avoiding Nigeria + Zaire.

To kill time we went to a book shop, and I was flicking through a book about UK in French. Amongst pictures of Tower of London and Scottich Lochs, was one of a quaint village game of cricket. Bizarrely it was Oxted Cricket Club (Eds note I had played for Oxted since I was 10) and Dave Adamson was batting at the Church End!.

Told David of our plans and semi-agreed to meet him in Nairobi.

David Adamson battingLue lisää
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ouagadougou
6. marraskuuta 1989, Mennä ⋅ 29 °C
The Lome bus doesn't leave until Saturday so we took a chance and went to the Gare Routiere where we found a Peugot 504 going to Lome (12500 CFA) and left fairly promptly. We had to stop at 18 controls before we got over the border and consequently it was shut when we got there. We were happy to spend the night there as it would mean seeing Togo in daylight, and the road runs through a big game park, however the border opened fairly rapidly (the driver having oiled a few palms as he had to do at almost every stop) and we proceeded, though only as far as the game park where we had to stop for 2.5 hours - Extremely uncomfortable with thousands of mossies - I think because the driver wanted a sleep (fair enough) . I bedded down on the side of the road and pulled my sleeping bag over my head, and ignored the prospect of lions etc!.Lue lisää
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Lome.
9. marraskuuta 1989, Mennä ⋅ 28 °C
The car became more and more uncomfy, and Jan became more and more scratchy. Togo though seems much mroe together, much lusher, cheaper, more variety etc etc. Eventually, after 27 very uncomfortable hours (very uncomfortable ones), about 40 control stops, (Police, gendarmes, Douanes etc) we reached Lome - Spotted the golf course on the edge of town - flat with Sandy greens but might be fun.

Got a taxi to Hotel De La Plage, where we were offered a room for 3500 CFA and cheap air tickets all over the place. Having agreed the price the proprietor announced that, as he liked us, the price would only be 3000. Then Madame Desire knocked on our door and offered to door laundry for 2500. We said 1500 and she jumped at it - Sucked in?

Sniffed out a flight to Nairobi, about £210, and went in search of a visa extension. UK Passports apparently don't need one but Jan did - Thus plenty of fannying around looking for a 'Tribune Fiscal' - we were told we would find him in Demain - Ever wondered around asking people where 'tomorrow' is?

Good but expensive meal and then Jan, who has developed a very chesty cough (Bet we all get it) wasn't feeling great so I embarked on a small pub crawl. Was offered women and drugs almost instantly and was then pestered by 2 mateys to but them beer so I returned to spend a very uncomfy night with the mosquitos.Lue lisää
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Togo or not to go
10. marraskuuta 1989, Mennä ⋅ 29 °C
Wondered into town after breakfast. Looked around a small but lively market and studied various pyjama suits for sale.

I like the local system of peeling oranges - Remove the top layer of skin, cut a hole in 1 end, then squeeze and suck, and drink all of the juice without having to eat anything.

Damp cloudy day, not very pleasant. Laundry came back spotless but still damp. We took to regular use of taxis to and from town as it was only 150-200 for 3 of us. Incredibly lazy as it was only 4-500 metres. Found a good snack bar next to the super market with very good pastries. I had two but then I couldn't eat all of my chicken yassa at dinnertime, and it was the biggest meatiest chicken I have evebr seen. By then it was lmost 8pm, very late for us to be out, so took a taxi home.

Listened to the news from Eastern Europe - it changes every hour - Something will have to give soon. Caught up with the diary today, good to be up to date. Makes it more spontaneous. Bit of drawing needs to be done though.Lue lisää
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Robinson Plage
12. marraskuuta 1989, Mennä ⋅ 31 °C
Checked out of the Hotel La Plage and walked to our little cafe opposite the super market, bought some vino and taxied to Robinson Plage. Rather dissappointing, small scubby beach, Expensive hut (?) 6300 CFA, and very pricey restaurant. Small zoo where the main sport is to see how many mice in the snakes cages are still alive.

Returned to twon in the evening to the Senegalese restaurant and had an excellent chicken yassa, with chips and beans not rice. Decided to return to town as La Plage is expensive and out of town, find a cheaper hotel.

Made camp in our usual cafe and went in search of a hotel. After much wondering ended up back at La Plage. By the time we had found a hotel, flopped and settled in it was dinner time so we had a quick adjacent meal and retired.Lue lisää
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Haggling with hags
13. marraskuuta 1989, Mennä ⋅ 29 °C
We sorted a flight to Nairobi. Quoted three different prices for the same flight by different people so opted for the Ethiopian Airlines office, at about £210, much the cheapest and we were saved £160 by our student cards (Each). After a quick look around the big 3 story market, the middle floor of which is entirely occupied by cloth and material, never seen so much, muct be tens of thousands of pieces (Mostly printed in Holland). Spotted a couple of voodoo dolls and went in search of some African suits and shirts and haggling over the price. Bought 1 light suit (3500) and a small shirt(2020) and Seb and I started after 2 very heavy material Nigerian suits, blue and brown, printed with Naira and bits of the Koran. Starting price was 11,000, after an our we were down to 8000 each, we pleaded that if we spent more than 8000 in total we wouldn't be able to eat etc. After 15 visits and as many ruses, the price dropped suddenly from 15-13000 for the 2, end of the day price! However we left amd went to haggle over some fruit and veg which we took to the hotel but only ate about 1/4 of it.

Managed to get Seb and Jan out on the town for all of 2-3 drinks before tiredness took over. Better than zero i suppose.

Next day re-engaged the suit vendor and had him down another 1000 by lunch, but there he stuck. He wouldn't budge for several hours . However we found another distraction and went back to look at the voodoo dolls in the market, and ended up wih armfulls of stuff, stools, calabashes, dolls, rattles etc nd had several hours of haggling with an old woman who wouldn't bdge and eventually got the better of us, though we did get a small discount. My favourite items were salt & pepper pots and a vinegar shaker all made from old light bulbs.

The old women are by far the hardest bargainers, tough old birds. Had another couple of digs at the suit vendor but he wouldn't budge, so we offered 11,000, and, when he said no, we walked away in disgust. He chased us down the road and we finally got our suits for 11000.

Struggled back to the hotel under a great weight of stuff, showered and spruced up for our last night (the first of the trip). Had a couple of adjacent drinks then headed up to the Relais de Poste restaurant e we had a couple more drinks and a fairly average meal, which Jan hardly touched. Serenaded by a black minstrel singing well known African songs like "When the saints, Yesterday and El Paso Condor".

Returned tired and pissed to the hotel where I was resting peacefully on the balcony until interrupted by one of the local tarts, - "Was I Alone? Did I have a room? Did I want to go to her place? I declined her kind offer. I then realised that i had been dozing with my trousers undone ( coutesy of Jan apparently (??ED??)) so no wonder she thought i was game.

Spent the whole of the next day trying to work out what to do with all our oversized pile of stuff. Take it to Kenya? Post it to GB? Split it up and send some to NZ? Decided on the final option. After a cursory glance at the nuseum that wasn't open spent the rest of the afternoon wrapping, packing and posting. £20 to send the parcel, think we over did it., that is what teh whole pile cost. (Editos note - Naturally the parcel never arrived back in the UK anyway ).Lue lisää
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lome airport
16. marraskuuta 1989, Mennä ⋅ 31 °C
Sitting in Lome Airport waiting the departure of Ethipian airlines 930 To Nairobi via Kinshasa at 20.45. It is now 20.40 and the plane hasn't arrived from its previus flight yet so we will be here a while.

Very much looking forwards to getting to Kenya, 1 place i have always wanted to visit, and i hope we make the most of it. We never really got under the skin of West Africa. The travel was very hard, butnot at all cheap. With the dissappointment of no go Algeria, rediculous hassles getting into Ghana, added to our lack of French and very stupid systems, we never really felt relaxed and comfy as we might. Shame really but at least we tried. Lets hope East Africa is a big improvement.Lue lisää
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Mara, Narok, Kenya
10. joulukuuta 1989, Kenia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
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Watamu, open shorts and sick skiing
25. joulukuuta 1989, Kenia ⋅ 29 °C
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Living in a hair dryer
20. helmikuuta 1990, Kenia
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Asia first
27. maaliskuuta 1990, Thaimaa ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
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Singapore
28. maaliskuuta 1990, Singapore ⋅ 30 °C
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