Camino 2022

Claire, Margaret, Andrew and I are walking 600k on the Camino del Norte and the Camino Primitivo from Bilbao to Santiago de Compostela in memory of John Gray who died from MND in 2019 aged just 57. Read more

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Trip start
August 29, 2022
Camino 2022
Bilbao
August 29, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Andrew and I arrived yesterday to enjoy a couple of days here before Margaret and Claire join us and we start our walk on Thursday.
The journey started inauspiciously with Andrew dropping the house keys through a gap in the decking so Donna and Chris, who are house sitting, will have to take the terrace to pieces before they can get in. We decided to walk to the station as it is traditional to start a pilgrimage from your home. It was a lovely walk along the towpath but we arrived to find the train cancelled. Luckily a replacement bus turned up and took us to Watford where we were able to resume our journey as planned. It all ran very smoothly from then on despite a slight panic when I struggled to open my nhs app to view my Covid pass and couldn’t find the email with the details of how to get into the apartment. After a short wander round the local area we found a bar and ate suckling lamb which was delicious. (My apologies to any vegetarian/vegans. )Read more
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Camino 2022
Bilbao again
August 30, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Started with a cafe con leche and a pastry in the local cafe before a walk around the old town and a look at the Cathedral. Amazing pintxos in the Ribera Market then a visit to the Guggenheim.
Looks great. Safe walking. [Steve]
9/1/22Reply
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Camino 2022
Bilbao 3rd and last time
August 31, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C
We are all here together now. Margaret and Claire arrived without incident although our plan to meet them at the airport failed as I’d got the time wrong so they arrived before we’d left to catch the bus.
We decided to get a head start on tomorrow so walked 6km of the way this evening and got the bus back.Read more
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Camino 2022
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Pobeña
September 1, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C
Wasted a bit of time this morning trying to find the right bus stop to take us back to where we finished last night. It was a dull morning but a lovely temperature for walking. It warmed up a lot later and we were very glad when we stopped for a beer and chips. We arrived at the Albergue in Pobeña slightly worried about whether we would get a bed but there were only about 10 people ahead of us in the queue. We are in a mixed dormitory of 20. It will be interesting to see how that goes!!
We walked across a beautiful beach to get here so having settled in Margaret and I went for a swim in the sea. (There are NO photos!)Read more
Traveler Wearing our MNDA vests
9/1/22Reply
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Camino 2022
Castro Urdiales
September 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Our stay in the Albergue last night was better than we had feared. The earplugs worked well so we weren’t disturbed by snorers even though there were 20 of us in a smallish room. We got up early and fumbled about in the dark repacking our rucksacks and managed to leave at 7.30 to walk in the cool cloudy morning air. It was a relatively straightforward walk around the coast with beautiful views of the sea. It took a long time to find somewhere for breakfast but eventually found a cafe where we had 4 cafe on leches and 4 large slices of tortilla for 14€. You wouldn’t get that in Costa. While we were there another pilgrim arrived and asked if we’d been at the Albergue last night and if any of us had left anything behind. She then produced Margaret’s swimming costume which she’d left hanging on the end of the bed. What are the chances!!
On the other hand we found that I’d booked a hotel for the wrong night and Andrew and Claire have blisters.
We are now in a cute little apartment in the centre of Castro Urdiales.Read more
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Camino 2022
Liendo
September 2, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Last night we stayed in a lovely little apartment but there were people partying loudly in the street outside till 5.30am after which the street cleaners came along. That, coupled with it being too hot made for a bad night’s sleep but we were up bright and early. Todays route started with some beautiful sea views and finished with a long slog uphill beside a main road. After a short stop for a beer we walked on to the Albergue. Only 16 beds but more space to move around in the dormitory. I think we all need an early night.Read more
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Camino 2022
Noja
September 4, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C
Blimey that was a day! Missed the turning this morning and did an extra 4 km before finding ourselves back where we started. Beautiful cliff walk in early morning mist and sun. Boat trip across the estuary from Laredo to Santoña and major unplanned diversion along roads and pavements in the heat because Pablo told us to go that way. We won’t be making that mistake again!!!Read more
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Camino 2022
Guemes
September 5, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C
A shorter day today moving inland. It was lovely to walk through quiet rural backwaters after the often busier coastal areas.
We have changed our plans slightly to stay at a hostel in Guemes that was recommended to us by fellow pilgrim Esteban who later led a hilarious yoga session. The hostel is beautiful and we arrived just in time for lunch and were given salad, lentil stew and red wine. This hostel is a ‘donativo’ which means you only pay what you want to or can afford. We are looking forward to dinner!Read more
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Camino 2022
Santander
September 6, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C
Beautiful walk around the cliffs and across the beach then a boat across to Santander. It was hard work walking on the sand and when we sat down for a rest nearly got swamped by a large wave. We are staying here for 2 days to rest our feet and our bodies. After a trip to the pharmacy we should have everything we need to treat our damaged feet!Read more
TravelerGreat photos. Enjoy your rest, you've earned it
9/6/22Reply
TravelerThank you. Our feet certainly need it!
9/6/22Reply
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Camino 2022
Santander rest day
September 7, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Went on a bus tour then a quick visit to the market and some lunch. We took our credencials to get them stamped at the Cathedral and were directed to an old man who collected the stamp from behind the font then told us to follow him. He led us through a door, down a corridor and straight out of a back door ! After a minute or two another pilgrim went in and came out again with their credencial stamped so we walked up to the door at which point the old man came out , rang his own doorbell and gesticulated to us to go in !!
We said Gracias a lot and escaped laughing.
Decided that Santander is a pleasant but not very exciting city but it does have fabulous beachesRead more
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Camino 2022
Santillana del Mar
September 8, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Left Santander by train and made some new friends. Denise was ludicrously excited when she saw Andrew’s spreadsheet as hers was almost identical.
It was a very hard hot walk today and we were too exhausted to appreciate Santillana which is a lovely quaint village. We stayed in the convent where we think we got the last 4 beds sharing with 4 Taiwanese people who had spread themselves all round the room and were probably disappointed when we arrived. We went to a pilgrim blessing and then had a communal dinner. I went to bed at 9 pm seriously wondering if I’d be able to walk tomorrow.Read more
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Camino 2022
Comillas
September 9, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
A day of two halves. The morning was through countryside which reminded us of England in lots of ways. After about 10km Claire’s foot was too painful to carry on walking so she got a taxi into Comillas where she was able to see a doctor who has said she needs to rest it for 5 days. 🫤
The other3 of us carried on towards the coast where we encountered a lot of hills. Andrew’s foot was very painful so Margaret set up a field hospital and operated on it. Later on I slipped on a gravel path and Margaret’s newly mended crown came off again. So we’ve all suffered a bit today!Read more
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Camino 2022
San vicente de Barquera
September 10, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C
We started with chocolate con churros in a cafe which we were directed to by a 95 year old man who chatted and showed us pictures of his family. It was a fairly short walk today at just 12 km along the coast road with spectacular views of the Picos de Europa behind the stunning beaches. It was hot again so we took it quite slowly. We have got beds in the Albergue but the top bunks have no ladders! I’ve been given a chair to use which seems to work.Read more
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Camino 2022
Columbres
September 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
And then there were 2.
Andrew joined Claire to let his blisters heal a bit more and they went on the train while Margaret and I walked. We were still on tarmac all day but mostly country lanes and stunning scenery. Very hot again in the afternoon. Staying at the Albergue where everyone is a lot friendlier that yesterday. For the first time we have met English speakers and are sharing with a couple of Irish boys and an older English guy.Read more
TravelerThose blisters are mega. Ouch
9/11/22Reply
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Camino 2022
Llanes
September 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C
Very long day. 25 km so our longest day and despite being mostly good paths and lovely views of the sea and the Picos de Europa we were still exhausted by the end. Claire is still having to rest her foot so went on the bus and met a wonderful American woman who is a paramedic and agreed to come and treat all our feet. We are planning a shorter day tomorrow.Read more
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Camino 2022
Ribadesella
September 13, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C
After yesterdays long one and the state of our feet we decided to take it a bit easy and only walk 12 km and bus the rest. It was a much easier walk mostly on paths and lanes. For the first time we had rain which was very welcome but unfortunately I was wearing sandals so my plasters all came off! It was a good opportunity to try out our ponchos though. Unusually the logistics worked and we managed to find the right bus stop at the right time and Claire was already on it. She had booked us 4 bedded room in a cheap hotel which is surprisingly ok.
Tomorrow we are going to Oviedo for 2 days before we start walking the Primitivo Route which will take us all the way to Santiago. 🤞🏻Read more
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Camino 2022
Oviedo
September 15, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
Yesterday we took the bus to Oviedo to start the Camino Primitivo which is the original Camino first done by King Alphonso II in 814AD. It is considered the most difficult Camino as it is the most mountainous but we are hoping this will suit our feet better than pounding hot tarmac. We are staying in an apartment near the cathedral square and as usual we seem to have picked a date when there is partying in the streets all night. The 14th Sept is when Oviedo venerates it’s holy relic, a piece of blood stained clothed purported to be from Christ’s shroud. As it has been carbon dated to the 6th century I am a bit sceptical 🤨
It is not usually on display but we were able to see it when we toured the Cathedral as it’s a special week.
This afternoon I am resting my feet and hoping for the best!Read more
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Camino 2022
Paladin
September 16, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
First day of the Primitivo and there were lots of people setting off, all speeding past us in their first day enthusiasm. It felt very odd. We took it easy and enjoyed the cooler weather and the countryside, both of which reminded us of England. Staying in a great little Albergue with river seats so you can cool your aching feet in the freezing water.Read more
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Camino 2022
Roca Madre - La Rodriga
September 17, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C
Had a great evening having a communal dinner with pilgrims from New York, Czech Republic, Denmark and Puerto Rico. The American guy had also crossed over from the Norte and although we had never met him before we had lots of Camino friends in common. We left with mist hanging over the hills and some trepidation approaching our first day of steep climbing. We all coped with it well and are thoroughly enjoying the more rural and off-road nature of the Primitivo. We stopped at a little place that served drinks and snacks for a donation. It was run by a young hippy couple who were happy to chat and stamp our credencials.
We are staying in a tiny Albergue ( also donativo) The owner ,Diego, has been here for 3 years. 2 doing it up and opening this year. He gave us all a beer when we arrived so we are sitting on the terrace enjoying the views. He is going to do our washing for us and give us dinner!
Claire’s foot and my blisters seem to be improving 😁Read more
TravelerSounds great.
9/18/22Reply
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Camino 2022
Bodenaya
September 18, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
Last night’s stay was amazing. We were welcomed by Diego and Irene who met us with a beer and gave us a wonderful dinner which they ate with us. The only downside was no wine with dinner so we summoned the strength to walk to the nearby town for a drink in the bar and to bring back a bottle. This morning when we came to leave Andrew couldn’t find hishat😱 Luckily he’d left it at the bar in town so was able to reclaim it. There was a lot of climbing again today but we all coped and if we hadn’t been looking at our feet as we negotiated the rocky paths we could have really enjoyed the scenery as the path went up 600m over about 12 km. We are staying at another slightly quirky Albergue that feels like someone’s house circa 1970! When we arrived the owner said he had a 3 bedded room and that Andrew would be separate. We assumed it would be in a dormitory but it turns out he has a single room !!!!!Read more
TravelerHalf way! How are the feet holding up?
9/20/22Reply
TravelerMuch better thanks. Tomorrow is the big day.
9/20/22Reply
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Camino 2022
Tineo
September 19, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
After an early breakfast we walked out into a cool but bright morning with cloud inversion in the valleys. Stopped at a small church for a stamp and met a German whose only visit to England had been to Burnley so he and Andrew talked football for the next 10 km or so. We stopped for 10 mins to watch the beginning of the Queens funeral and again for the minute’s silence. Yet another type of Albergue today. A 4*hotel that is also a pilgrim hostel with bunk beds in the basement. Very posh!Read more
TravelerCorrection we hardly mentioned Football ⚽!
9/20/22Reply
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Camino 2022
Campiello
September 20, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C
Walked up through cloud and then down again into sunshine on woodland paths.
We are staying overnight in Campiello because of lack of beds nearer the start of the ‘hospitales’ route which we will attempt tomorrow. After we’d checked in we had a gentle stroll to Borres for lunch where we met up again with Father John who we met on our very first night way back in Pobeña as well as various other people we’d met before. I think everyone is a little apprehensive about tomorrow’s walk.
Amazing lunch of soup, bread ,tortilla,tomato salad, wine and yogurt or fruit for 10€. Taxi back to the hostel and arranged for him to pick us up in the morning to drop us back in Borres to tackle what is supposed to be the most difficult part of the Camino.Read more
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Camino 2022
Berducedo
September 21, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
We did it!!! It was a long hard day but so worth it.
We left as it got light and walked up and up for about 5 km through the mist to emerge above the clouds on a small plateau carpeted with autumn crocuses and dotted with small pine trees. It felt like we were in a fantasy world ( or as Claire said: Teletubby land!)The views were stunning with mountain tops poking up through the clouds. The rest of the day we walked up and down on stony paths with stunning views in all directions. At one point it got really windy , and then as we descended very hot. Very relieved to have arrived at a hotel where we are having a rest day tomorrow.
We walked about 23 km and it took us 9hours.Read more
TravelerWow - congratulations!!!
9/21/22Reply
Travelergreat effort well done!
9/21/22Reply
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Camino 2022
Rest day Berducedo
September 22, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Restful day sitting in the sun and planning our next two (and final) weeks. We’ve been told that there is a shortage of accommodation as you get closer to Santiago so we have been trying to book ahead.
The owner here is alternately very grumpy and very kind. She is very huffy if you ask her anything but did our washing for us and bought Claire some gluten free bread. She seems to be running the whole place without help so maybe she has an excuse.
Berducedo is a strange place where all the locals seem to be a bit unfriendly. We were refused food in one place and given a less than warm welcome at the other.Read more
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Camino 2022
Embalse de Salime
September 23, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
It was all downhill today. 14 twisting km through mist down to the embalmse. We had been warned that it was a difficult descent but we wore knee supports and were all fine. Not the most exciting walk and as the water level in the embalmed is really low not as pretty as it might have been. . It’s a strange and slight spooky place with mostly abandoned buildings. The hotel was a bit soulless too.Read more
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