Spain and the Canary Islands

February - March 2019
It’s the big 70th for Tory and Christine. To celebrate (a little early), we are off on a cruise to the Canary Islands followed by 2 weeks in Spain. Bring on the tapas, paella and wine! Read more
  • 29footprints
  • 3countries
  • 32days
  • 87photos
  • 0videos
  • 24.0kkilometers
  • 23.1kkilometers
  • Day 1

    The airport wait,

    February 21, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C

    Drinking beer at Pearson. Got through the new automated baggage check and security system without too much trouble but the poor people without a Nexus card are probably still waiting. Next step is to find our tour group and escorts. Our flight to Barcelona has a transfer in Frankfort so sleeping might be a bit tough. Tory has suggested that we take ownership of our posts so henceforth we will try to let you know who wrote them. Christine (edited by Brian)Read more

  • Day 3

    Sagrada Familia

    February 23, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    One of the iconic buildings in Barcelona is the church built by Modernist Antoni Gaudi. The cathedral was started by another architect who quit after one year. Gaudi accepted the commission and 100 years after Gaudi’s death, in 2026, the cathedral (now a Basilica) will be finished. The Basilica has 2 facades finished (the Nativity, the Passion), with the Glory facade still to be completed. Unlike other churches, the stories of Christian teaching are portrayed on the outside. The inside is designed to suggest a forest. The columns reach to the ceiling and then branch out like tree limbs. There are no flying buttresses...the columns are fashioned from different stones, according to the load they support. The church will eventually have 18 spires, the highest representing the Virgin Mary. This building has so much symbolism and design complexity that it is impossible to discribe.

    We thoroughly enjoyed our audio tour and were glad we had pre-bought our tickets on-line. We were told that on a slow day, 5000 people visit the Basilica.

    One additional oddity...The printed information wall posters refers to the church as a “temple” but we did not see any explanation.
    Read more

  • Day 3

    Tour of Barcelona

    February 23, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    We all slept pretty well last night. We are at the Hotel Alexandra on Majorca St. It is a contemporary hotel, not too big, with excellent staff and a good location in the Eixample area of Barcelona. This area was a military district until the 1860’s when it was razed for a planned community. As a result, the streets are laid out in a grid system and all are 20 meters wide; 10 meters for cars and 10 metres for the sidewalks. The streets have many trees and the architecture has a distinct Art Nouveau look. It is very reminiscent of Paris with lots of wrought iron balconies.

    Very sensibly, each corner is cut on a 45’ angle, rather than 90 degrees like in North America. This allows for parking for about 6 cars on each corner of an intersection and provides much better sight lines.

    Our morning bus tour took us first to the Sagrada Familia (more about that later), then on to Montjuïc. Much more interesting than the standard “scenic view” point. Montjuïc has sports facilities ( swimming, riding, tennis, platform tennis) a soccer stadium, an art museum in a former palace, and many repurposed buildings from the Olympics. Fortunately it is a beautiful day (sunny and low 70s).

    We finished the morning with a short walk down Las Ramblas. This is the major street to the water and a “ must do “ for tourists. It is a busy commercial street with a wide, heavily treed boulevard down the middle. Very busy and prime hunting ground for pickpockets. We took a short detour into the Bari Gotic. This is part of the original city with very narrow, twisty streets and remnants of the city walls.

    Then back to the hotel before heading out to return to the Sagrada Familia for an audio tour.
    Read more

  • Day 4

    To the boat!

    February 24, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Sunday was another beautiful sunny day in Barcelona. Tory and Roger got up and had walked 2 hours by the time the bus left for the ship. Brian and I slept in (hopefully the end of the jet lag). Our plans to go to the Picasso Museum went awry.

    It was a short bus trip to the ship and a longish wait in line to be processed. The Norwegian Spirit is a larger ship than Brian and I are used to. Our room has lots of storage and wonders of wonders, a shower door instead of a flimsy curtain. By the time we got on board and settled, it was mid-afternoon so we spent the rest of the day exploring the ship and unpacking.

    Only the large Windows restaurant was open for dinner and it was busy. We started working our way through the “wines by the glass” list as we have the beverage package. We drank a very nice Tempanrillo. Dinner was very nice. Brian and I had beef medallions.

    The opening night entertainment was a fairly painful introduction of the ships officers, the program staff and a snippet of 3 upcoming acts. We were glad to head off to bed.
    Read more

  • Day 5

    Our first sea day

    February 25, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 4 °C

    Our first sea day was a mixed bag of activities. Roger and Tory got a lumpy bed and spent some time getting that resolved. Brian and I did a little dancing and we all did too much drinking!

    It looks like this will be a good cruise for dancing and music. There is a Latin band that plays regularly and the dance floor is a pretty good size. This is also a younger crowd and so there is lots of pop music too.

    The passengers are a mix of European (the majority?), North Americans, and Middle Eastern. The age range is Baby to frail seniors so quite the mix. We hear lots of languages every day.

    Our major feat of the day was winning the trivia contest, paired up with two young men from the Okinawa Valley. The questions focussed on the ‘80s so we were glad to have them on our team. As Tory pointed out, we were too busy raising kids and working to notice what colour Mrs. Pac-Man was.

    In the evening we attended “A Salute to Motown” by the Soul Sensations. They made up in style and enthusiasm what they lacked in voice and were quite entertaining.
    Read more

  • Day 7

    Casablanca

    February 27, 2019 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 5 °C

    When we woke up, I could not figure out why it was so dark. Later in the day, we realized it was probably heavy smog which blew in and out all day.

    Casablanca is a busy port city. We decided not to do a ship excursion so we walked off, through the port and got a taxi into the centre of town (or so we thought). Our driver got to a Medina (market), showed us the correct direction to walk to get to the mosque and said it was about four blocks. NCL does not provide any maps for passengers (a serious mark against them) so we headed off with very little idea of where we were going. Tory and Roger had been here once which helped.

    We walked through the edges of the market area. Our impressions were that there were lots of men of all ages standing around; we saw very few women and they mostly wore hijabs, long sleeves and pants; there was lots of garbage on the streets and the strawberries were enormous!

    This part of the city was predominately browns and greys (walls, sidewalks, clothes) with an occasional vivid splash of colour: a wall mural, or the carts of fruit. We walked through this area, dodging cars, bikes and handcarts to reach the large square in front of the mosque.

    Tory tells us that this is the second largest mosque in the world. It sparkled white and turquoise against the blue sky. We had all been in large mosques before so we decided not to pay for the tour.

    Shortly after, a large bank of smog blew in and as we were all starting to feel if (stinging eyes, sore throats, coughing) we grabbed a taxi and headed back to the ship. In retrospect, we agreed that we should have paid for an organized tour...oh well, lesson learned. We later heard that a sandstorm had blown in from the desert. Smog? Storm? Hard to differentiate.
    Read more

  • Day 8

    Arrecife, Canary Islands

    February 28, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    Yesterday was a sea day with little to report (other than victory at Trivia). Today we were in the lovely little city of Arrecife. This is the oldest of the Canary Islands and is volcanic. Tory and Roger went on a bus tour to the UNESCO designated park. They learned a great deal about the Islands.

    Brian and I walked into town. The route is clearly marked and an easy walk. The cruise terminal facilities look brand new and are white, like all the other buildings in the town. We walked to the old fortress which is now a museum. Unfortunately all the information is in Spanish so it had limited educational value for us. We walked the Main Street and bought some Aloe products (aloe is grown here). There are bike and scooter rentals on the street but we just wandered around. Lunch was tapas and wine beside the water then back to the ship. All in all, a delightful day.
    Read more

  • Day 9

    Grand Canaria, Las Palmas

    March 1, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    This island is bigger and a bit greener than Lanzarote. It was discovered in 1478 by European explorers, much to the detriment of the Canarios. It is a dry island with only about 25 days of rain each year. Water is desalinated for non-consumption but otherwise, water is purchased from the reservoir. Las Palmas looks like a financial and commercial centre.

    Brian and I took a ship excursions to Finca LaJaja (finca means plantation) in the Agaete Valley (pronounced Ah-Rah-Tey). Much like the plantations of the south, it grows coffee and sugar cane and produces wine to sell on the island but it also is self-sufficient for vegetables, fruits, meat and dairy. But today, its main income was from tourists. It is very well organized to manage large groups of tourists to learn about and taste coffee (from Arabica beans), wine and local fruits like oranges, avocados, limes and bananas. The island is heavily terraced for agriculture. On this finca, no chemicals are used on the plants.

    The town of Agaete is quite pretty with all houses painted white (by law) . We also visited Puerto Agaete, a tiny fishing village -very picturesque.
    Read more

  • Day 11

    Santa Cruz, Tenerife

    March 3, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Tenerife is the largest of the Canary Islands with 1 million people. It was conquered by the Spanish in 1493 after welcoming Portuguese and Italian traders for centuries. Santa Cruz is a bustling city in the midst of a month long carnival, so this morning when we met our guide, Andreas, the streets were pretty quiet as the party goers were still in bed.

    Tennerife was the site of one of the biggest aviation disasters in history. In the early 70’s two 747s collided . Clearly this is a part of their history they would prefer not to focus on.

    The island is crowned with Eo Teide, a volcano that is dormant. It has a profile reminiscent of Mount Fuji...a perfect cone with a smattering of snow on top.

    Andreas from Lanzoratte Experiences took us to 2 smaller cities...La Orotava and La Luguna. La Orotava is a town renowned for its houses with balconies jutting out from the top floors of the houses. Many of these houses date from the 1600’s and have been re-purposed as government buildings. They are built in the Spanish style of a central, internal courtyard, with open air corridors. The street facades of the houses tend to be quite plain, with ornate, wooden shutters. This is a pedestrian friendly city with wide roads and sidewalks but quite hilly. Once a year for a holy day (sometime after Easter), the town creates a sand carpet, a very ornate picture created by different colours of sand. It takes a month to create. They also cover a short stretch of the Main Street with a carpet of flowers which, of course get trampled by the procession. The city has a botanical garden including a 300 year old dragon tree which traditionally was used for medicinal purposes. It’s sap is red, like blood.

    La Laguna (the lake) no longer has a lake. It is one of the larger towns on the island and is less interesting than La Oratavo. We visited the central market and had a delicious coffee called a Barrique (this is my guess on the spelling). It has expresso, sweetened condensed milk, cinammon, a small shot of liquor and, oddly, a piece of lime peel! Delicious. We added a glazed donut with a sweet potato filling for our morning snack. The Spanish laid out the town on a grid system so the roads are wide and straight. We visited the Church of San Fransica Real Sancitraviso Del Santerno Cristo (quite a mouthful). It has a silver gilded altar and a Black Jesus who, once he was cleaned of his oil and soot coating, turned out not to be black. Over 600 of the buildings here have a historical designation.

    We thought both of these towns were fascinating and would warrant a multi-day visit.
    Read more

  • Day 12

    Funchal, Madeira

    March 4, 2019 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ -8 °C

    Though we had done the research, we weren’t sure what was open, as it was a Sunday. Wishing to avoid the cruise crowds, we grabbed a cab to the cable car and arrived just as it was about to open at 10. A guide stopped us and proceeded to tell us why we should hire him. He was very persuasive and we ended up with what turned out to be a much better itinerary.

    Instead of taking the gondola up the mountain, then walking partway back down to the sledge ride, he drove us directly there. As a result, we were 3rd in line and coasted down the mountain on this strange toboggan manned by 2 drivers. Fun! Our driver met us at the bottom and then drove us to our second stop, the Botanical Garden. We agreed on a 90 minute visit where upon he would meet us at the exit. Again, we missed the crowds and had a leisurely stroll though a wide variety of plants, flowers, trees etc. Lovely.

    Our final stop was a drive to the top, where the cable car took us down. We walked right on, again ahead of the hordes. It was a pleasant, scenic trip to the bottom, where we saw dozens of tourist waiting in line. It would take them all day to do what we had accomplished in 2.5 hours.

    We took our guides advice and walked around the old town with its many unique artistic
    doors. Meandering back, we took in a 30 minute film on the history of the Canary Islands.
    The couples parted way, then, with Tory and Roger returning to the ship and Brian and Christine lunching at a restaurant they had spied earlier, advertising Cataplana, a delicious fish stew they had enjoyed in Portugal.
    Read more