• skip's retirement travel

Iran

A 18-day adventure by skip's retirement travel Read more
  • Trip start
    October 25, 2025
  • Chabahar

    October 27 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Chabahar is a free trade port on the Gulf of Oman and is the largest port in the south of the country. Part of its importance comes from its location outside of the Strait of Hormuz.
    The community dates back over 4,000 years and was known as Tiz, at least until the time of Alexander the Great.
    Chabahar is not on the usual tourist routes in Iran that are generally farther north. From a nearby "sites" perspective, there are: the Pink Lake whose color is faded in this light; the Temple Tree, where people traditionally gathered for all sorts of communal activities; the "Martian Mountains"; and Beris Port. These are the sites in the photos.
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  • Arg-e Bam

    October 31 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    Arg-e Bam or Bam Citadel is the largest adobe complex in the world. Like the rest of the city, the citadel was severely damaged by the earthquake. It is a UNESCO site, that has received extensive funding for rebuilding. The work is being done with newly made adobe material using the traditional recipe.
    The 1st picture looks at the main gate. The 2nd picture looks to the right from the main gate to show how extensive the adobe structure is.
    The 3rd picture looks in from the gate. The inner citadel is elevated above the rest of the community inside the walls. This was the governor's residence and inner fortress.
    The 4th picture is in the Tekiyah. This square is used for ceremonial purposes, most often Shia specific rites.
    The 5th and 6th pictures are passing through the complex toward the inner citadel that might be called the Keep in other contexts.
    The 7th and 8th pictures are the gate into the inner area
    The 9 the picture is the main courtyard of the governor's residence. All those doors on 2 levels are for apartments for important government staff.
    The 10th picture is high in the governor's residence and appears to be an audience hall. The rest of this part of the building is still being restored.
    The next 3 pictures are the view from the top of the citadel overlooking the rest of the complex and part of the modern city of Bam. The next 5 pictures are of the remains of the buildings in the city in the citadel. The last picture is said to be the Jewish quarter and where the leader of that community lived.
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  • Bam

    October 31 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    No, that's not a comic book sound effect. Bam is a city in southern Iran that was a significant hub on the silk route through this region. The city dates to the Parthian empire, perhaps as early as the 3rd century BCE.
    Bam is perhaps best known for the 2003 earthquake that killed more than 26,000 people and injured 30,000 more. The city was flattened and is continuing to be rebuilt.
    The 1st 2 pictures are a couple streets in the downtown area. This is a Friday so most shops are closed.
    The next 5 pictures are of an old caravanserai showing remains of several parts of the facility.
    The 7th picture looks into the caravanserai through a cross shaped opening. It is likely that this relates to Zoroastrianism that originated here and their science of 4 elements: air, water, fire, soil.
    The last 3 pictures are in a main mosque of the city.
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  • Shazdeh Mahan Garden

    November 1 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Shazdeh Garden or Prince's Garden in Mahan is one of nine UNESCO world heritage sites that are traditional Persian Gardens. These always have shade and water for cooling. They are always walled and are divided into quadrants with varying vegetation in each. A pavilion is also present.
    All these elements can be seen in the photos.
    The 1st picture is the view from the entrance gate. The photos then proceed up to the pavilion, and are followed by several pictures in different parts of the garden.
    By the way, the Persian name for these gardens is pari-daizi, which is the root for paradise. It can be seen that these gardens, in the midst of the very hot dry heat of Iran, will seem like Paradise.
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  • Kerman

    November 1 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Kerman is a city in South Central Iran, founded in about the 3rd century CE. The city has been sacked a number of times, with the current city dates mostly to the 19th century.
    The 1st 4 pictures are at the Jameh Mosque which dates to the 14th century and is Kerman's Friday mosque. The 1st picture is the gate while the 2nd picture is the ceiling within that gate. The 3rd picture is the main courtyard. The arch to the left is where the 4th picture is located. The 4th picture is the Mihrab denoting the direction to Mecca. Note the depression. This is where the imam kneels to pray as a sign of humility in that he is lower than all the others.
    The 5th picture is an arcade near the main bazaar. Within that structure is an extensive fruit and vegetable market.
    The next 2 pictures are at the tomb of Moshtagh Ali Shah, a well-known and important Sufi mystic and musician who was stoned to death for singing the Quran. The 6th picture is his tomb and the 7th is the decorated ceiling in the mausoleum.
    The 8th picture is in a traditional restaurant off the Vakil Bazaar. The 9th picture is a traditional ice house. And the 10th picture is of part of the ruins of an ancient citadel that has not been restored.
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  • Vakil Bazaar

    November 1 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    Vakil Bazaar dates back about 600 years and is the center of Kerman in many ways. It is a very large enclosed shopping bazaar with numerous attached businesses, museums, etc. There are a few posts of some of those other places
    The 1st picture looks across the plaza in front of the bazaar to the main entrance. This is a social hub with numerous food trucks, coffee shops and lots of people socializing. The 2nd picture shows the entrance a bit closer.
    The 3rd picture is a very small part of the very long main hall of the bazaar. It's hard to give a sense of how extensive this is. Likewise the 4th picture. Note the interesting brick work in the ceiling. The 5th picture is of the ceiling at one of the junctions of crossing halls.
    The 6th picture is a courtyard adjacent to part of the main hallway.
    There was a caravanserai adjacent to the bazaar, too. It has been converted into a posh hotel and restaurant. The 7th picture is the side hallway from the main bazaar to the hotel. The 8th picture is in the courtyard of the Carvanica, the posh hotel.
    To give a sense of leaving the bazaar, the last photo looks across the plaza in the 1st picture, but looks out from the main bazaar entrance.
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  • Hammam Museum

    November 2 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    This hammam or traditional bathhouse is located in the old Vakil bazaar in Kerman. The bathhouse dates back over 400 years and was restored in 1971. It has been a museum since then.
    The 1st picture is of the entryway along the main corridor of the old bazaar. Look closely for the artwork behind and above the metalwork.
    The 2nd and 3rd pictures are in the main bathhouse. Note the wax figures in 16th century costumes in various parts of the hammam activities: washing, soaking, massage, etc. You will note the wax figures are all men. This was a men's hammam. Women and men have separate hammams.
    The 4th picture shows the changing room that is in the process of restoration.
    The 5th and 6th pictures are of the time stone. It is worn now, but back in the day, the sun shone on the stone in such a way that users of the bathhouse could tell the prayer times each day. The last picture is in the room with the time stone and was used for prayer. The round fixture in the center was filled with water for the ablutions before prayer.
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  • Zoroastrian Fire Temple

    November 2 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Zoroastrianism is one of the oldest living religions, dating back at least 3 millennia. Having originated here, this was the dominant religion of Iran up until the arrival of Islam.
    Ahura Mazda is the deity worshipped and is the god of good. The religion is dualistic with Ahura Mazda being ultimately victorious over evil.
    The 1st picture is of the Faravahar, a principle symbol of Zoroastrianism. This is deeply symbolic of the faith and needs much too much detail to describe here. I invite you to Google this. It's fascinating.
    The 2nd picture is the entry to the temple building, and the 3rd picture is in the anteroom where the Faravahar is on the left hand wall.
    The 4th picture is the inner sanctum behind the anteroom where the fire is maintained. This is the heart of Zoroastrianism worship which is toward the fire but directed to Ahura Mazda.
    The 5th picture is of the temple grounds.
    The remaining pictures are of and in the only anthropological museum of Zoroastrianism in the world. Most of the pictures are of celebratory tables with descriptions above. I hope you can enlarge and read them. They give an interesting look at faith and practice.
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  • Zurkhaneh Show, Yazd

    November 4 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 18 °C

    This is a show that evolved from exercises warriors did in training and preparation for battle. Over time, it evolved into a sport and became a show often done for charity. For example, neighborhood groups would stage a show to raise funds for a family in need.
    The video here is a combination of clips of the exercises done by the participants. You can see conditioning as well as movements that are reminiscent of ancient battle moves.
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  • Yazd

    November 5 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Yazd is an important city in central Iran located in the middle of a desert. So much of its development involves creative ways of making it possible to live here.
    Yazd is perhaps best known for its many wind catchers shown lit up at night in the 1st picture. These are an early form of cooling for buildings, so important for a city in the middle of the desert. (See also the post of qanats for another example.)
    The next 2 pictures are of Amir Chaghmagh square, the main square in Yazd. The 4th picture is of the clock tower in Markar Square, nearby Amir Chargmagh.
    The next 3 pictures are at the Zoroastrian Fire Temple in Yazd. After the Muslim invasion and the effort to convert Zoroastrians to Islam, many of those who refused went to live in Yazd because it was out in the desert and somewhat protected. So this is the center of Zoroastrianism in Iran. The pictures are of the Fire Temple, a good description of the symbolism in the Fravahar, and the fire in the temple itself, known to be burning for well over 1,000 years.
    The 8th picture is of the dome of Alexander's (the Great) prison. It is a madrassa today.
    The next 3 pictures are examples of what the old town of Yazd is like.
    And the last 3 pictures are at the Jameh Mosque here. Of note, these are the tallest minarets in Iran at 54 meters
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  • Dodgah

    November 5 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Dodgah or Tower of Silence is the place of the traditional Zoroastrian burial practice. Because they believe in the sacredness of their 4 elements: air, water,before and soil, they will not contaminate soil with dead bodies that are traditionally thought to contain demons. So, they practiced sky burials: the corpse is laid atop the tower for vultures to remove the flesh.
    The 1st picture is a long view of the site. The old Tower is to the left in the 1st picture and shown in the 2nd. The newer Tower is in the center of the 1st picture and in the 3rd.
    The 4th picture is the top of the newer Tower. Bodies were placed here until the bones were cleaned. Then the bones were crushed, placed in the hole in the center and treated with chemicals to dissolve the bones so that they leached away.
    Another belief is that the spirit remains around the body for 3 days. So those grieving the death would stay here for those 3 days. The remaining pictures show the facilities provided for the mourners. Pictures 5&6 show something of the layout of buildings where mourners stay with the 7th giving a better look at one of them. The last picture is the dome of a cistern that provides water for the mourners. The wind towers help keep the water fresh by providing ventilation.
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  • Qanats

    November 5 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Qanats are underground water channels bringing water into desert areas. The technology is at least 3,000 years old and believed to have originated on Iran.
    These photos are of the 2,500 year old Zarch Qanat, a UNESCO site and the longest in the world at well over 70 kilometers.
    The 1st picture is the entrance that was built to access the water wheel in the 2nd picture. Grain was carried down, milled and flour brought back up.
    The 3rd picture is a schematic showing how the qanats work. An aquifer would be identified. Once tested for adequacy and depth, the channel was dug from the bottom to the aquifer. The 4th picture is in a typical channel.
    Between the aquifer and the exit point, water was accessed by walking down stairs to the tunnel. One such access is in the 5th picture.
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  • Esfahan

    November 6 in Iran ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    Sometimes spelled Isfahan in English, Esfahan is the 3rd largest city in Iran, a former capital and a UNESCO site. It sits at the intersection of 2 major trade routes. It is perhaps known for its Persian-Islamic architecture.
    The 1st 4 pictures are of 2 bridges of similar design. They are Si-o-Se-Pol and Khaju. Both are over the Zayanderud River that is dry due to drought and diversions. Both attract people for evening entertainment, typically under the bridge arches and is mostly self-made. The Khaju has the King's Pavilion in the center where the Shah would watch water festivals.
    Persian carpets are known worldwide. I even bought one at this shop, but I didn't think to take a picture.
    Across the road from the Naqsh-e Jahan Square, behind the Ali Qapu palace is the Shah's reception palace. This is the next 3 pictures. It's a beautiful building that's located in the Hasht Behesht garden, another UNESCO listed Persian garden, a bit of which is also shown in the 9th picture.
    Esfahan is a beautiful city with many tree lined streets, boulevards and parks. The last two pictures provide an example of each.
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  • Naqsh-e Jahan Square

    November 7 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 11 °C

    This is the main square of Esfahan, dating to the 17th century. It is said to be the 2nd largest public square in the world with Tiananmen Square in Beijing being larger.
    The 1st 2 pictures are of the square, one from ground level along its main axis and the other from above and to the side, looking in the same direction. In the 1st picture you with see 2 short stone columns. The denote a goal for when polo was played here.
    The next 2 pictures are in the Imam Mosque at one end of the square.
    The next 4 pictures are in the Sheikh Loftollah Mosque. This was the private mosque for the ladies of the royal court only. The pictures are of the ceiling of the gateway, the entry hallway, the sanctuary and the ceiling of the sanctuary. In the center of the sanctuary ceiling is a peacock, and the light extending from the center is the peacock's tail.
    Directly opposite the Ladies' Mosque is the Ali Qapu palace. This was the royal residence. The next 3 pictures are various locations in the palace. The elevated picture of the square was taken from the balcony of the palace where the Shah and guests would watch parades, polo, fireworks, etc.
    The square is surrounded by buildings. This is a (mostly) touristy bazaar of hundreds of shops. The 12th picture is typical of the bazaar.
    The last picture is a saffron shop just off the square for a presentation about growth, grading and uses of the world's most expensive spice. Iran is the major producer of saffron on the world.
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  • Vank Cathedral

    November 8 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Another surprise (at least for me) is the presence of a significant Armenian community here. They were brought to Esfahan by an emperor who valued their business and craft acumen. Even today, they have 2 representatives in the Parliament.
    They were given their own neighborhood, called Jolfa. This is where they built their cathedral and many other churches. One stipulation put on them was they had to include Islamic and Persian architectural elements. If you compare the 1st 3 pictures to pictures of other Armenian churches, you will see the differences in the dome, arches and more. The next 4 pictures are all inside the cathedral, showing the typical extraordinary art work with which their churches are decorated.
    There are 2 museums here, too. The last 4 pictures are a sample. The eighth picture is an overview of one of them. They have ancient manuscripts that were brought from Armenia centuries ago. The 1st printing press in Iran was constructed here. Picture 10 is a later press, and 11 is a more recent printing, about the 18th century.
    The last picture is a statue of a bishop whose name I neglected to note.
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  • Pasagardae

    November 9 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The tomb of Cyrus the Great. Cyrus built his tomb here as this is the battle field where he defeated his grandfather, Astyages, the last Mede king. This marks the founding of the Persian Empire. Pasagardae served as the royal capital was moved to Persepolis by Darius the great, Cyrus's son.
    The 1st picture looks down the new walkway approaching the tomb. The next 2 pictures are of the tomb. V pictures 4&5 are of photos showing the inside of the tomb which is not open.
    Also on the battlefield at some distance from the tomb, he built a number of places that are in ruins. The 6th picture looks to a column that is still standing. The 7th picture looks out over the battlefield.
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  • Persepolis

    November 10 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Persepolis was the ceremonial capital of the Persian empire from the late 6th century BCE until it was destroyed by Alexander the Great in 330 BCE. Construction began under Darius the Great and was continued by each successive ruler.
    Every year at the feast of Nowruz, Persian New Year, celebrated at the vernal equinox, the leaders of all the client kingdoms (as many as 28) were required to appear and present their annual tributes to the emperor.
    The 1st picture is an overview of the complex taken from a tomb site above the city shown in pictures 2&3.
    The 4th and 5th pictures are from outside the walls and give a sense of the extent of the site.
    The 6th picture is the Gate of All Nations where those bringing tribute entered. The 7th is a detail of a Lamassu (a winged creature with a human head and the body of a bull or lion) on one side of the gate. The next 2 pictures look across the site to the Apadana Palace where tributes were presented. Pictures 10&11 are along the access ramp to the ceremonial palace. Each client Nation is represented in carvings all along the wall showing their national character and their tribute.
    The 12th picture is of a mostly undamaged griffin sculpture. This was found buried at the site, suggesting that it was never installed so Alexander didn't find it to destroy it.
    The 13th picture is of the Treasury building where the tributes were kept and the empire was financed. While hard to see, this is about the largest building here.
    The 14th picture is of a lion killing a bull. This is evidence that this site is connected to Nowruz as the lion is a symbol of the new year while the bull is a symbol of the old year.
    The rest of the pictures are examples of what the rest of the site is like. It is most impressive.
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  • Naqsh-e Rostam

    November 10 in Iran ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Naqsh-e Rostam is the name given to the necropolis of Persian emperors, beginning with Darius the Great. The 1st picture shows most of the site from a distance. The 2nd picture is a closer look at one of the tombs (Darius, I think). Note that the carvings are included within a cross. This is not a Christian symbol. The Persian empire was Zoroastrian. They believed there are 4 sacred elements: fire, earth, air and water. The 4 fold structure commemorates the sacred elements.
    The 3rd picture is called Zoroaster's tower. It is a copy of another building at Pasargadae. Many theories exist as to its purpose, but nothing is certain.
    The next 3 pictures are examples of the carvings below the tombs. Most of these are from a later period. For example, the next picture (the 4th) portrays the 3rd century CE capture of the Roman emperor, Valerian, the only Roman emperor captured and enslaved.
    The last picture is beyond what's visible in the 1st picture. This is a later king being invested by Ahura Mazda, the supreme deity of Zoroastrianism. The king is to the left and God is to the right.
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    Trip end
    November 11, 2025