Mansilla de las Mulas to Leon - time to

Aimed to leave at 6.30 but snoozed my alarm for the first time and then could not fit everything into my rucksack so had to do a complete repack. I bought some cherries and nuts, seeds, yoghurts etc last night and they were just too big to fit in so had to abandon two yoghurts and an energy bar. Sad but very necessary. Even then had half a packet of rice cakes hanging off my pack in a dry bag.
Finally left at about 7 expecting a horrible walk into Leon. I had been told that it would be 18 km literally on the hard shoulder of a busy A road and was definitely prepared for the worst.
However, either people were hugely exaggerating or the route has been altered but there was only about 50m of walking with the traffic and the rest was on tracks - sometimes close to the road but never on it and often in what felt like the middle of the countryside - although so close to Leon.
Stopped for coffee in Puente Villarente at what seemed to be a very popular local spot - and discovered the Leonaise tradition of giving tapas with the coffee - in this case a raisin croissant all for €1.40! Later spoke to one of the helpful policías who explained that this is the custom in the area of Leon - quite rare in Spain. I really appreciated the croissant with my coffee although I had brought my yoghurt, blueberries and seeds. I had to eat a second breakfast later as they were heavy and I was fed up with carrying them.
Arrived in Leon having got a great view of the cathedral from the hill i approached on. As with any city, initially the outskirts were a bit dull, although I really find any city in Spain fascinating as I spend my time trying to read all the shop signs. But once I passed through the Puerta Monada it was fabulous. Winding streets, beautiful architecture and buzzing with life. A huge contrast to my much missed Meseta but wonderful too.
Took my time reaching the cathedral by following the yellow arrows and then bumped into Caroline, Rachel and Mike on their way to the cathedral. I felt too hot and bothered and keen to get rid of my rucksack to join them so headed for the hotel, which is right by the cathedral.
After cooling down a bit and doing a bit of washing, Caroline and I went to the Casa Botines, which is a Gaudi building and the Gaudi museum in Leon. I love Gaudi and it was a fascinating place including descriptions of his techniques (which including the importance of recycling, and sunlight and air in his buildings - which seemed very ahead of his time), rooms set up to look as they would have done when it was built and many rooms of paintings.
The evening was a celebration of Nick’s 65th birthday. We joined him at the Patio and then went on to eat at an Italian style restaurant and a beautiful square which served huge pizzas.
It was a long, busy and very enjoyable day but I’m exhausted now and looking forward to a lie in tomorrow.Read more