Finisterre to Muxia - the real ending

We set off from Finisterre in cool cloud which was lucky as it was another pretty long walk (25km). We came across a very welcome donativo house offering coffee, fruit and snacks where we stopped for a while, in Buxán. The woman who ran it was Falician but had lived in the UK in Chichester for 19 years so spoke perfect English. She was reading a huge hardback copy of Women Running with wolves. I’m inspired to read it.
The sun was out by the time we stopped to have breakfast at a hotel bar looking over another beautiful beach. From here although warm in the sun there was plenty of shade as the path led through trees for much of the time. It was quite hard going - a lot of steep climbs and then some rocky downhill parts. We had a second coffee in Lires and the headed off the main Camino path just before Muxia to reach the parador at Costa da Morte.
The path was mainly inland and although we were parallel to the sea the whole time we rarely saw it. Lots of wind turbines though - Galicia is definitely committed to renewable energy.
The Costa da Morte parador is an extraordinary hotel - built very recently into the hillside - at first sight a bit like a telly tubby house. The floors go down rather than up (reception is zero and then down to the rooms from there) and the lift goes sideways as well as down. Quite surreal. But all beautifully designed. Hotels are generally not my best thing but this is the most beautifully designed one I’ve ever stayed in and I would love to return.
The room was striking with lots of interesting features (like a loo that lights up at night!). It had a view over a green flowery meadow to what is undoubtedly the loveliest beach I’ve ever seen or been to. A perfect y red ent of white sand, crystal clear blue water and deserted! Nothing around it except the hotel and that is designed into the hillside. Added bonus that the path down while it starts reasonably easy, is relatively long and ends with a bit of a scramble onto the beach so most people seem to be out off by that and don’t bother going down there. Perfect for those who do go! But I guess that’s very selfish! No umbrellas or infrastructure of any kind so only for the dedicated swimmer!
I loved it!
We didn’t walk into Muxia immediately but had some lunch, rested, and went to the beach leaving the very last part of the Camino to the next day.Leer más