Belorado to Atapuerca

Very long way to go today so we left at 5.45 - in the dark. Actually pitch dark as it was a cloudy morning. Nevertheless the first birds (black redstarts) were singing as we were leaving Belorado.
First coffee was delayed as most places don’t open til about 7 so we had walked nearly 10k before we found somewhere open. But it was a wonderful place so I’m pleased that we came to it first. In a tiny place called Espinosa - an alberge and bar run with love by a couple who produced great coffee and amazing food. One to remember.
Second coffee was in Villafranca - not quite as good but good enough. Then to a tiny supermarket where I stocked up with a tiny toothpaste as I’m running out and a banana.
After Villafranca it was steeply up but so beautiful - oak trees giving way to pine trees with a wonderful smell I’d like to bottle and take home with me.
Then a very long largely flat section with beautiful trees, flowers and butterflies before we gradually dropped down to San Juan de Ortega where I sat at a cafe for a while and then explored a beautiful Romanesque church.
On through the forest to Ages with Nick, Paul, Linda and Bernie. Stopped for a painstakingly carefully made cheese and tomato sandwich at the little bar where we ate dinner last year when staying at Agés. Couldn’t get into that hostal this year so walked on for the last 2.2k to Atapuerca through extraordinary fields of flowers. Today staying in a four bed room in Albergue INpulso Atapuerca with Tamami from Japan and Li from Korea - both seem lovely.
After a wander around town dinner options looked limited so we made our own tomato sauce with pasta with fresh tomatoes and peppers and shared with a Dutch girl going through a big change of career - interesting discussions about wine and politics!
Going to sleep to the singing of a spotless starling who has a fantastic range of sounds.Read more