- Show trip
- Add to bucket listRemove from bucket list
- Share
- Day 21
- Tuesday, June 11, 2024 at 6:30 AM
- 🌙 5 °C
- Altitude: 887 m
SpainTerradillos de Templarios42°21’56” N 4°52’46” W
Ledigos to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos

Anticipating a long day we got up at 5.15 and were on the road by 6. But it was soo cold!! 3c when we left and by the time we had walked about 5k to Moratinos my hands were so painful I had to stop for a coffee where we could sit inside. Hostal Moratinos was very welcoming, warm with great coffee and I managed to carry my cup to the table without dropping it despite frozen hands. Met Keith from New York there also suffering from the cold and sore feet - his size 52 (!) shoes were rubbing. Not sure where he will make it to tonight but he was moving slowly.
Left Moratinos feeling a bit more human and the temperature gradually began to rise. Finally got to Sahagun, the official half way point of the Frances, at about 9.45. There found the cafe which I remembered from last year that has wholemeal croissants. Ordered two this year (with coffee total of €5) - absolutely delicious. Met up with Nick and Paul there. We will now not see them until we get to Leon as we are going the route less travelled and they are going the road route and will get there a day earlier.
In Sahagun we went up to the Santuario de la Peregrina where you can get a certificate that is supposed to be for getting half way but Cress says isn’t really! Got it anyway as it’s a nice certificate and a lovely place to spend a little bit of time. Sahagun would be worth a stop at some point as there are some interesting buildings.
Then on, and on, and on to the Via Trajana and Calzadilla. It’s a lonely and beautiful route but with little shade and nowhere really to stop tho we had bought stuff for lunch.
Arrived in Calzadilla around 2 and found David still at our Albergue, where he had stayed last night. He’s having a rest day - much needed after a 32k walk from Ledigos. Our rest day will be in Leon after, hopefully, a river swim in Mansilla tomorrow.
Have done the usual washing and now charging phone up while writing this and watching it dry! All good on the camino and quite surprised that I don’t feel worse after the 32 k with a ridiculously heavy pack. Planning to send some stuff forward from Leon!
Dinner with Cress and David - delicious and ended with melon so perfect. This is a good place to stay and they seemed pleased that I had come back a second time.
NB watch the video with the sound turned up - it’s a nightingale singing!Read more
Traveler
Wonderful to hearing that nightingale song. Must have been uplifting to hear that on your journey. X
Traveler32km is a long way! Your feet are doing a great job. Here’s a round of applause for them…👏